Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    RayS

    Another CPW to CSC Conversion

    While I have converted two vehicles from Ceramic Paste Wax to Ceramic Spray Coating, I do not want anyone to think that I am not satisfied with CPW. In fact, it was a very though decision to convert the two that have been done so far. I believe CPW is one, if the not the best wax that I have ever used for classics and daily drivers. As for the activity of the weekend. While the wife and I originally planned on having her Terrain Denali professionally coated, after putting CSC on a couple of vehicles and seeing the outcome, we decided to do the Terrain. Being the wife's vehicle, it was already in pristine condition and it is a garage queen. After performing strip wash early this morning, and then started looking over the Terrain. It was clean, but I decided that since I did not have the Swirl Killer when I originally polished it at the end of June when we got it, I decided to go with One Step Polish and brand new Orange Pads. After doing the entire vehicle, it didn't have the luster that I wanted, so I pulled out the Finishing Polish and new Whilt Pads and went over the Terrain again and that gave it the look that I was after. Then it was on the Surface Prep, followed by the CSC. The entire vehicle was done with CSC from the roof, all the chrome, entire body and wheels. In case anyone has any doubt, the Denali has a ton of Chrome. Unfortunately, the rain came in late, so I didn't get to take any outdoor pictures, but I can assure the chrome will blind you. In the second picture, you should be able to see my truck reflecting in the back of the mirror. On Sunday, I'll do the interior and hit all the leather, dash and door panels with Leather Conditioner.
  2. 6 points
    Rb1274

    2019 Subaru Outback Paint issues

    Update... all polished and CSC... I am very happy with the results... hope it holds up strong
  3. 6 points
    So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now. Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials. I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion. Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive. @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating. Thanks all! For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail. I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through) I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan. Here is what I used: Engine Bay: Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier ) As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology. I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray. So why not start here and work outward. Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating. I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay. I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components. I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing. I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off. I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC. Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff. Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC. I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could. It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay. From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood. I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below). Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted. In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there. Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay. So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle. Below are the materials that I used: Interior: Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck. I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean. I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable. I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages. So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay. In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC. Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down. So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that. A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush. Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. Video: I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck. I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down. So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle. I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best. I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray. Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck. I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great. I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck. It also worked very well. I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface. After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck. This is where having the headrest removed also helped. I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces. I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle. Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats. I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry. It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk". Here are some pics! BEFORE All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself. I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon. Thanks again y'all!
  4. 4 points
    RayS

    There is nothing better....

    Are you suggesting that not everyone does this? Is this an indication of an addiction? Yes, the neighbors do tend to give me strange looks when I'm washing cars in the rain. On the topic of the Plush Blue Waffle Weave, I really like them and that is what gets used on the wife's vehicle when I do a Waterless wash. I easily go through two or three of the regular waterless wash towels when I use them and only go through 1 or 2 of the plush towels. In addition, I find the plush one easier to hold onto when using them. As for the actual cleaning of the vehicle, they both work the same in my opinion. The 12 pack of both is a good deal when there is a sale going on and both are superior to the waffle towels that I had from a different company from years ago.
  5. 4 points
    tlbullet

    Winter prep/2 step correction

    It corrected pretty easily.....just never buying a black car Again..EVeR !!
  6. 4 points
    Dan@Adams

    Spray Nozzle STRAW's

    Yep, we just insert them down into the bottle and allow the stem to curl into the bottom of the bottle to get every last drop. You can obviously cut them to length if you prefer, but it's not 100% necessary. The smaller sprayer triggers are all the same length, which allows us to have one size of sprayer for 4oz, 8oz, and 12oz ceramic line products, so this saves on warehouse space and confusion when packing orders. I do usually trim those sprayers a bit for my 4oz and 8oz bottles though. The 16oz sprayers have a longer stem now too from previous years, which I like because I can use them on my older 32oz bottles now too
  7. 3 points
    lvwashere

    Hello from Florida

    Hello everyone! Been using various Adam's products since early summer and have been extremely happy with the results, so I recently purchased the SK mini and detailing seat mystery boxes. Next step is to buy a larger machine, and try to remove the years of neglect from the paint as I've only stripped, clayed and applied wax in the past; never polished. We're the original owners and after 8 years my wife is still happy with her 127k+ mile daily driver; however, I think its time for something new.
  8. 3 points
    bosco1

    Wife's New Wagon Adamized....

    2016 Escalade ESV, Got her home, Clayed, Machined - Paint Sealant, Machined - Brilliant Glaze, Hand applied Buttery Wax. Now I get my wagon back, 2000 Suburban with 200k on it, until it rains or snows then she'll take my burb back I'm sure. The only diffence between the 2 is about $48,000 ...Picture with the wife in it is before Adamized!
  9. 3 points
    Rich

    Hello from South Florida (with pics)

    Welcome to the forum Joel! Very nice ride. Don't be afraid of the Ceramic Spray Coating. Watch the videos, follow the steps, and hit it. You'll be amazed how easy it is to use as long as you prep properly.
  10. 3 points
    RayS

    Winter prep/2 step correction

    Stick with Red, they are much easier to maintain, that is unless there is a spec of dust on the wife's vehicle. The wash mitt or sponge can make a difference in the number of marks you end up with. I may be a bit over jealous when it comes to what touches the vehicles I maintain, but so far I have had good luck with the process. I had posted in a different thread about what I use and how I take care of the washing products: I hope some of the info on the link will help you and reduce some of the marring you ended up with along with the notes of the other members on technique.
  11. 3 points
  12. 2 points
    Sizzle Chest

    Never leave home without it!

    Thanks Chris! Don’t get on here that much, but had to share these pics! Thanks JR, it’s an awesome machine. SUV sports car. It’s a blast on these roads!
  13. 2 points
    zw470

    Bought The Wife A Brand New New VeeDub

    Ok some of these are just straight up brown
  14. 2 points
    tlbullet

    GAMMA SEALS???

    You may have lost one...but 2 sounds like a larceny to me!!! I would guess Adams CS could help!
  15. 2 points
    Looks great..unreal, in-depth write up which will Be extremely beneficial to all current and future forum members!!
  16. 2 points
    falcaineer

    ceramic spray

    Actually, Wash & Wax is a silica-based product, not carnauba. It's a misnomer, but I'm told Adam's did it because "Wash & Seal" doesn't resonate with the average person. Wash & Coat can be thought of as Wash & Wax on steroids, and both are safe to use on coatings. Hope that helps!
  17. 2 points
    Scooter Trash

    Random Thoughts

    Once you can accept the universe as matter expanding into nothing that is something. Then wearing stripes with plaid comes easy.
  18. 2 points
    ClimbingDad

    Recent to Adams

    2014 Cadillac CTS4 2.0T Luxury edition - black. 18" factory rims. Massachusetts. I have what I guess I would call hobby level + experience with detailing - although if you asked my wife she would say I spend too much time cleaning my car. I took a body shop class after work number of years ago to refinish my 1987 Chevy Caprice - which I sold. I always have questions when I am looking at how to clean this or tha t and I decided this might be a great resource.
  19. 1 point
    SgtLip

    Hello from Florida

    I'm a retired Contract Negotiator so I understand the itch. When I get it I use that as an excuse to hone my negotiating skills. Ha Ha. Works every time.
  20. 1 point
    RayS

    Wife's New Wagon Adamized....

    The vehicle looks great, the windows not so much. Adam's makes product called Glass Cleaner, just for that purpose and it does work. I know you put Buttery Wax on it for now, but I have a recommendation that is cost effective and really works great on White vehicles and that is H20 Guard and Gloss. I'm sure sure, Chris will jump in, but I'll take him to make sure - Hey @falcaineer. Chris did a white vehicle with HGG a year or so ago, I think it was his, and it really impressed me to the point that the next white vehicle that came my way also got HGG and I was hooked on it for White vehicles thereafter.
  21. 1 point
    falcaineer

    Not Sure Where to Start

    I don't know if you mean @Chris@Adams or me, but I'm not at liberty to give any details on the new coating technology. Sorry, but I'd be in serious hot water if I shared anything. But you shouldn't have to wait too much longer to know more... 😀
  22. 1 point
    Watchmyshoes

    Hello from DC

    Yeah I ordered a couple of mystery packages last week (spooky box, regular mystery box and the mystery trunk organizer). Felt like gambling for a second but I pretty much have a ton of the products already and was able to snag a few of the last couple of limited releases. As soon as I tried the detail spray I just started buying stuff 😂😭.
  23. 1 point
    RayS

    There is nothing better....

    I will recommend that if there is a Microfiber Mystery Box to purchase it. They are usually a good mix of towels at a very good price point and it is the one mystery box that I will purchase every time, since you can never have too many towels.
  24. 1 point
    nateeric

    Another CPW to CSC Conversion

    As far as I know the properties of the two are the same, just different application style as far as a paste vs a liquid wax. I bet a jar of CPW lasts longer than a bottle of CLW, I probably used a third of my bottle doing my truck.
  25. 1 point
    Bscott94

    Glass Cleaner + Brilliant Glaze

    I believe I saw somewhere that BG has cleaning properties. If your glass is really dirty, it would probably be best to clean first. I just had some finger prints and a small bit of stuck on junk.
  26. 1 point
    I learned about shelf life this week... I have had a bottle of Correcting Polish for about four years, I used it to buff out light scratches by hand. This week I crossed over into the world of machine polishing... so excited! Grabbed my bottle of 4 year old correcting polish.. and went right to the hood of my wife’s new black Outback... first of all it only had light swirls from washing no need for the orange pad I choose and CP...dumb ***! OMG!!! Something didn’t seem right... it wasn’t working long and getting hard after the first pass??? Gave the bottle a shake and tried again, OMG ITS RUINING MY PAINT! I used some Brilliant Glaze to get it off cuz it was like a rock I searched every where for info on bad polish or old polish.. no luck THANK God Adams opened up the new store near my house.. I drove over on Sunday! Talked to the guy at the counter showed him the bottle and he said yes the color was all wrong in the bottle. He also said my car didn’t need CP and just start with Finishing Polish. since last Sunday I have polished two cars and Csc them... I am totally hooked and wonder why I waited so long to get into polishing... long story short... yes product goes bad!
  27. 1 point
    falcaineer

    Opinions on the new Adams Vacuum

    If it's not me, one of us will make sure the development team sees the feedback. Thanks for being candid! Re: country of source, several years ago, Adam addressed the issue in the video below. The company understands customer demands and in some cases has to look overseas to fulfill those demands. Recommend anyone interested take a few minutes to watch...
  28. 1 point
    https://adamspolishes.com/collections/new-just-in
  29. 1 point
    mc2hill

    SS winter prep detail

    Very cool! Down here any time it gets below 50 you will see firewood sellers on the side of the road!🙄
  30. 1 point
    Matt, by the way, that one shot of the truck while in the garage looking at it from the back to the front with the reflection is a REALLY GREAT shot. The reflection looks so cool. Again, great job.
  31. 1 point
    falcaineer

    Dulled finish

    Don't get me wrong, Brian, I know he is, I've enjoyed watching some of his videos. And I'm not on FB for a variety of reasons. Still, I was curious so went straight to the source...just passing along what I learned in the hopes of helping. Anytime you have a question, please keep asking - I can go straight to the development team, as can several of the mods.
  32. 1 point
    Wow, does the truck ever look great. Thank you for spending the time on the write up. I also had my doubts about Revive Hand Polish until the first time I used it and then I became a believer and it is part of every detailing.
  33. 1 point
    lawson4450

    Back again!

    No s Nope got 7.5 more years lol my birthday 2028 well technically 4 days after my birthday I started April 7 2003.
  34. 1 point
    Captain Slow

    SS winter prep detail

    It’s what we use outside in fireplaces in the summertime to keep insects away, family, friends and neighbors close, roast wienies and make s’mores on. It also helps in draining glasses of adult refreshments. We use firewood when traveling such as on the shores of Lake Superior. During your car show months we bring it indoors sans insects.
  35. 1 point
    Hmm, I have some revive but stopped using it because I didn't really notice a justifiable difference for the elbow grease it was taking. I figured that even finishing polish with the swirl killer would be less work and better results than Revive while not being too aggressive? Could be way off base though.
  36. 1 point
    No sir, it would not apply during drying, of course always use caution, make sure your towel is clean, I do at times go in different directions, but it would be safer to be methodical about it and go in straight lines. Key take away, is that most damage happens during the wash/dry process.
  37. 1 point
    mc2hill

    Confused about glass car products

    I usually make the appointment for the "maximum allowed" tint installation as soon as I know when a new vehicle will arrive. I had to wait almost 2 weeks when we bought our Accord and I hated it without tint. 😎 Here in the Sunshine State the extra tint helps the inside of the car stay cooler and reduces the fading of interior surfaces. Your new whip will probably be in the garage most of time, so it may not impact you that much.
  38. 1 point
    Nickfire20

    Confused about glass car products

    I do it on all interior 👍
  39. 1 point
    Generally maintain Ceramic with Ceramic infused product and Glass Sealant with Glass Boost (these don’t contain Sio2) I play around with different options on my daily driver, to see what i like, or which one will or wont cause wiper chatter. But the above is the proper, short , and simple answer.
  40. 1 point
    The website says to "Spray a fine mist on the panel". In the video, at around 1:55 mark, Adam says "before he jumps in and starts using the spray and wipe, he does everything he can to reduce the big particles of dirt on the finish". The video goes on to say what all he does. You may want to check it out. I also remember in a different video with a different product, he said if the bottom of the truck is extremely muddy or dirty, you may need to rinse it off. I know that defeats the purpose of waterless wash, but large particles of dirt will scratch the paint for sure. I apologize as I've not used this product yet but I will be in about a week. So I've been studying a lot myself.
  41. 1 point
    Good to know... Thanks Chris!
  42. 1 point
    Tkitch92

    CERAMIC WATERLESS WASH???

    Thanks everyone!
  43. 1 point
    Brought to you by Mega Foam, Wash+Coat, Ceramic Waterless Wash, and Glass Cleaner.
  44. 1 point
    Admit it. Despite how easy Adam's makes it, whether you've been detailing for days or years, we've all made a mistake or two along the way. It comes with the territory. So I figured, while many threads on here contain solid advice of "How To's" and "To Do's," I thought it'd be fun to have a thread dedicated to our "Don't Do's." A catalog of lessons learned, if you will. Those things we did that we still scratch our heads over. Those little golden nuggets you want to share a laugh with over a "virtual" beverage of choice with fellow detailers. Now, this sort of thread is liable to stall after my post, or go on for a while, so I'll start and we'll see what happens....... I love my Sidekick, as I proclaimed here and other threads across the forum. Awesome tool, and I'd highly recommend it to anyone. When I first got it, though, I was a little apprehensive about its performance. Sure, the air was blowing like crazy, as advertised, but I had to get pretty close to the car for it to be effective. I was also very deliberate, even careful, while doing so. Still, I wasn't getting good results, and I even nicked one of my rims. That is, until I came across and actually "studied" the picture of it on the Adam's site... Pretty straightforward tool, right? The Sidekick itself, all 1.3hp of warm, filtered air. The long 12' extension cord. The comfort grip handle. The Adam's logo. The 2 nozzles...wait, what? See those black things? The rubberized cone and fan shaped nozzles, meant to focus the air stream and protect your car? Yeah, I forgot to install them. For...let's just say, a while...I was using the Sidekick with a small, sharp metal nub as my blower. There's a reason they're in the box. Don't forget the nozzle!
  45. 1 point
    Dan@Adams

    Problem with the new Ceramic Glass wipes

    Hi there, I do certainly apologize about the phone issues! We've been incredibly busy as usual with phones and emails during sales and new product releases. I was out of the office last week working at our display at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in Las Vegas, so that meant even one less person on phones. We are trying to catch up to things as quickly as possible. Calling early in the morning (7am MST) or after lunch are times when the phones aren't usually as busy. Right at 8-9am, lunchtime, and 5pm are when phone lines are most busy. The Ceramic Glass Coating Wipes can be a tricky product to get right. If you are still having issue with the residue, I would not recommend using an orbital polisher as the first plan of attack, as it might be too aggressive and remove the coating. Try a few drops of Brilliant Glaze on a small test area of the windshield - spread it with a hex grip or a gray microfiber applicator block, then quickly wipe it away with a microfiber towel - that did the trick for me.
  46. 1 point
    Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

    New to this game

    You're ready! The garage sign is essential to the Ceramic Spray Coating. Can't wait to see your results from the job!
  47. 1 point
    Yesterday before work, I came outside to these: Then, when I came home from work, this was my wife’s car:
  48. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    Serious Paint Correction I needed a vehicle to test out the new Rupes polishers, and made the mistake of offering to correct the paint on this 2000 Porsche Boxster. Before seeing the car, I had figured it would be a good tester since it is small, and has a convertible top, so less paint to work on. My sister-in-law dropped it off at my house while I was still at work, and when I got home and looked over the filthy car, I texted her and told her to come back and pick it up! It had severely swirled paint, lots of deep scratches, and scuffs everywhere from the car cover. And it was covered in maple tree whirly-birds and sap. OVERALL STEPS: Vacuum interior Strip wash Clay bar Strip wash again Dry exterior with Master Blaster Dry jambs with Waterless Wash Towel Mask off all trim and convertible top Correcting Polish Waterless Wash Finishing Polish Strip wash Sealed with H20 Guard and Gloss Clean all interior plastic and leather Clean carpets Dress interior with Leather Conditioner Clean interior glass Dress trim with VRT Apply Tire Shine DAY ONE: I like to vacuum the interior before washing to get all the dirt out of the door jambs, so that it does not get blown out onto the paint when drying with the Master Blaster. Cleaned all the tree litter out of the jambs. Washed and scrubbed and washed some more. I don't think the wheel barrels had ever been cleaned, the wheel bucket water turned black. Clay bar decon with Detail Spray, then strip washed again to remove all the residue. Scrubbed the wheel barrels again, more black water. Forced air dry, then pulled into the garage to towel dry the jambs, then let it sit overnight. 5 hours to get it clean... DAY TWO: Masked off all the plastic and rubber trim so I could polish right to the edge of the paint. Masked the top with plastic to keep polish splatters and residue dust off the fabric and also ran a row of masking paper across the cowl. Used the halogen flood lights to inspect the damage, and removed some stubborn sap with IPA. Started with a test section on a quarter of the hood, with a speed setting of 4. The Rupes 15mk2 made short work of the swirls, removing them by the time the polish flashed. However, to remove some of the deeper scratches, I had to work those sections two to three times longer. Used the Mini to polish the mirrors, around the windshield, and some complex curves on the trunk lid. 6 hours on the paint correcting step... Did a quick Waterless Wash to remove the polish dust and any missed residue. While some would consider this unnecessary, I like to work clean and also think that it is worth the extra 15 minutes to not have Correcting Polish dust getting picked up on the finishing pad. After the correcting step, I considered calling it good, since this 16 year old car had a fair amount of chips and deep scratches that could not be fixed. Ended up doing a quick round with the Finishing Polish, which took about an hour. Results were a major improvement. DAY THREE: Pulled all the masking, then stripped washed again to remove all the polishing dust and any missed residue. Applied H20 Guard & Gloss with the car wet, being very careful not to spray any onto the fabric top. I had not planned to clean the interior, other than the vacuuming, because just polishing the paint was too much work. But, my wife saw how dirty it was, and offered to help clean it, since she is good friends with my sister-in-law. Normally, if I was going to clean the interior, I would have done it first, rather than having to be very careful with the freshly polished paint. We used Leather & Interior Cleaner on all the interior plastic and leather seats, then wiped everything again with damp towels to remove any excess cleaner left behind. Then my crazy wife decides she is going to use the Bissell and Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner on the carpets, so I let her do that while I hand wash all the towels. Finished by cleaning the interior glass, then dressing all the exterior trim with VRT. The HGG had made some decent improvement on the fade trim, but the VRT made it look new again. After inflating the nearly flat ties to the proper pressure, applied Tire Shine. 5 hours for this final day...plus another hour of cleanup. ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: As expected based on other reviews of the Rupes polishes, they have a good deal more correcting power than the Cyclo. However, these single-pad machines take a bit more technique to keep the pad flat on the surface, without adding too much pressure, whereas the Cyclo takes almost no effort to run evenly. I think the major drawback to the Rupes tools is cost, since you need to have the two machines to get most of the areas. Around the windshield and some tighter curves on the trunk lid could not be done with the 6" pads on the 15mk2. I could have done the entire vehicle with just the Cyclo, even the mirrors with some careful handling, it just would have taken longer to get the correction needed. With the Rupes polishers listing at $700 for the pair, the Cyclo at $380 is a bit more than half the cost. So for polishing a couple properly maintained vehicles a year, the Cyclo would still be my recommendation. If you regularly work on correcting neglected paint, then the time savings with the Rupes machines would be realized and justify the additional cost. Also, the inability to machine polish the side intakes has given me the itch for a Nano...now just how to justify that cost.
  49. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    WAX RE-MELT My tub of Americana Paste Wax was about half used up, and had really broken up. This wax is not the new version, but about 2 years old. To re-melt it, I used a double-boiler, adding just enough water to the level that the wax container, without the lid, just started to float. With the heat on medium, I watched the wax to see when the smallest specs just started to melt, then reduced the heat to low. On low heat, it took about 20 minutes for the wax to completely melt. It is important to melt the wax VERY slowly, with just enough heat to get it right over the melting temperature. Using higher heat to melt faster can degrade the wax. Do not leave unattended on the stove, watch for melting and adjust the heat as low as possible. Note that if you have just a few cracks in the wax, you can still get it onto an applicator, so I would not re-melt for that. But if it is broken into chunks like this one, then the only way to get it onto an applicator is to rub a chunk onto the face of the foam. In short, only re-melt if really needed. Once melted, I carefully removed it and let it cool off and solidify. Also, be very, very careful with melted wax. At 180+ degrees it can cause severe burns and will stick to the skin, causing even more damage. Take special care, and do not leave unattended on the stove where a child could get hurt. One last tip, this is best done when the lady of the house is out. You don't want to get in trouble for using her cookware for detailing stuff, and you certainly don't want to let her know that you can actually run the stove by yourself.
  50. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    FALL DETAIL, PART 2 Seal, Seal, Seal The second afternoon session included the following steps: Sealing all the glass Sealing the trim, graphics, and running boards Sealing the paint Products for today: Glass Sealant, Quick Sealant, Liquid Paint Sealant, Glass Cleaner. Tools for today: Cyclo Model 5-Pro Polisher, Microfiber Applicator Pads, Foam Applicators, Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel, Borderless Gray Towel, Double Soft Towel. Sealed the glass by applying the Glass Sealant with the Microfiber Applicator Pad. To start, I applied a line of the sealant along the narrow edge of the pad, then wiped it onto the glass, going horizontally first, then vertically second, to make sure no areas were missed. I applied the sealant to all the exterior windows and side mirrors, then went back and removed the haze and residue with the Glass Cleaner and Glass Cleaning Towel. I used a couple towels, to make sure I was using a clean portion of the towel on each window. Next up was the Quick Sealant on all the plastic and rubber trim. For areas like the air vents, I sprayed the product onto the surface and also a little onto the foam applicator, then leveled everything out with the applicator. I then removed any overspray on the adjacent paint with the Borderless Gray Towel, before moving to the next area. Do not let the product dry without leveling it with the foam applicator or wiping it off with the towel. I also used the Quick Sealant on the vinyl graphics, applying with the foam applicator and wiping with the towel. For the rest of the trim and plastics (window trim, door handles, bed rail caps, bumper pads), I sprayed the product onto the applicator, spread it onto the area, and then wiped with the towel before moving to the next area. I then finished by applying the Quick Sealant to the running boards. For each of these areas, I started on the upper areas, and then worked to the lower areas, to make sure the applicator did not pick up any contamination. To seal the paint, I first applied the Liquid Paint Sealant by hand with the foam applicator to all the panel edges and around the trim and emblems. This helps prevent getting the sealant onto these adjacent surfaces with the machine. Then, using the Cyclo polisher and the gray foam pads, I applied the Liquid Paint Sealant to all the painted areas. I started with an X of product on each pad, then added a few spots of product for each additional panel. Using the machine polisher allows the product to be spread nice and thin, and also makes reaching the roof and hood easier. The Cyclo is so smooth, you can run it with just a few fingers holding the end of the grip. The Liquid Paint Sealant can be applied to the whole truck before wiping any residue. Unlike a wax, it is actually a little easier to remove the residue once it has dried for a while. To remove the residue, I used the Double Soft Towel, switching to a clean towel surface for each panel.
×
×
  • Create New...