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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Adam has also posted the "vote with your dollar" advice on this forum, but it was specifically in regards to the expansion into some of the branded merchandise, like shirts, hats, socks, etc. His comment meant that if these other products do not interest you, then vote with your dollar and not buy them. This comment was not meant to be applied to the company as a whole, only specific products. Again, all these other products, including the swag products and the expansion into different equipment lines, have not in any way come at the cost of the constant development and refinement of the core chemical products. Other than the "Made in USA" issue on some of the equipment, I just don't understand why offering any of these other products means that the company is no longer meeting its goal of providing the best quality detailing products, with unmatched support in this industry, to make it easier for customers to get the results they want, and to ENJOY the process! Another general discussion topic not specifically directed to @ramflava: The entire "re-branded" argument, when it comes to equipment, does not make any sense. Adam's Polishes, just like the vast majority of detailing product companies, do not manufacture equipment. Equipment is manufactured by...EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURERS. These manufacturers design and build equipment, either as a standard item, or in many cases, to the specifications of the buyer or client. For example, Adam's tells the manufacturing company what they want for specifications in a particular product, and then prototypes are built and tested, and then the final product is tested, then released. In other cases, the main component of the product is already part of that manufactures product line, so Adam's might just make a few minor changes. And since I know it will be brought up, there is also one major and well known EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER that also sells some detailing chemicals. Simply put, Adam's Polishes manufactures detailing chemicals, and uses equipment manufacturers to build the equipment. Just like they have textile manufacturers make the towels to their specifications, the brush manufacturers make the brushes, etc. Yes, some products are off-the-shelf (buckets, some brushes, spray bottles), and some have only maybe color or other cosmetic changes, but they do not manufacture any of it, so why would people expect them to be manufacturing something as complicated as a piece of power equipment. Contrary to what the uninformed masses (that spend too much time trolling FB and IG) might think, just because a specific piece of equipment might appear similar to another, it does not mean that company made it, and Adam's just slapped a sticker on it. What is more accurate is that the same equipment manufacturer made variations of the different products, so some appearances are the same. A good example is when the pressure washer was released. People on IG and this forum were so quick to proclaim that it is just a re-branded Sun Joe, and some said Arksen, and yet more said Realm, and so on. And none of those were the correct manufacturer. Kyle stated that Apex makes the Adam's version. So that likely means that Apex also makes some or all of those other "re-branded" pressure washers that look similar.
  2. 8 points

    Ceramic Spray Coating

    So I spent the last two days working on my 19 Equinox. It's black, so every single flaw is going to show up. Washed and clayed the car, polished it using the Finishing Polish and Swirl Killer, wiped her down with the Ceramic Surface Prep, then started with Ceramic Spray Coating. Two days of busting my rear in 90* heat in the garage, and I have to say, I'm damn happy with the results. Check out the pictures. The last pic isn't dust............that's the metal flake in the paint. It just POPS now.
  3. 7 points
    Every wonder how we do door jams and tight spaces quickly? The answer is a steamer and a tornador tool. Our steamer is a Vapor Chief 135 that allows us to mix chemical in the same line. With the steam it really heats the product which makes it super effective. We tend to run diluted APC through ours, but in the winter we can run rinseless through it to do an entire car. It just takes a little time. A good entry level steamer is the McColluch MC1385. It doesn’t allow continuous fill while hot, doesn’t mix chemical in the line and is lower pressure but will make a difference in how you work. In these two videos (sorry for my poor video skill, it’s not easy to work and video), you can see how the steamer does a ton of work. Once the steamer does it’s things, you can wipe them clean with ease. 02D7E6A4-115F-4F01-8B23-C1EBAAEA83B4.MOV FBAD197A-8EB9-4D34-BD9B-890C4D9B4D6F.MOV Typically before we wipe though, we use the Tornador tool. This tool runs off of the air compressor (and is air hungry with heavy use) but uses compressed air and chemical to mobilize contamination. We also run this with diluted APC frequently. When you combine these tolls, tight spaces don’t stand a chance! Door jams are cleaned with easy as well as seams. 50D36D9E-1B62-4A9E-B445-24EB58E4F68B.MOV 61825BE1-A628-4144-BE1A-0D4767D686CC.MOV
  4. 6 points
    It seems like we get one of these "Adam's isn't as great as it once was" posts every couple of months and it always stirs things up. Here's a fact: The only constant in life is change. Hey - I miss DvK, too. But he's gone. He's moved on. So has Adam's and so has this forum. In the 10 years I've been using Adam's products the line has changed A LOT. Some of it I use, and a lot of it I ignore. Doesn't bother me in the slightest if they release a product I'm not interested in. I just don't buy it. This forum is designed to be a place where Adam's customers can come and ask questions that are answered by other Adam's customers, Adam's employees and - every one in a while - Adam himself. It is not a place for bashing Adam's products or practices or directions. There are plenty of places on the 'net where you can voice your displeasure with anything you like. You'll have a lot of company. It sucks that you felt disrespected by Adam's "vote with your dollars" comment but try to put yourself in his position. He has thousands of users that love his products and clamber for everything he produces and a handful of people not happy with the "direction" his company has gone. I'm sure he gave you his opinion in a very respectful way but sometimes you have to just say, "Well - see ya later!"
  5. 6 points
    I disagree that the company is pretending to be what it used to be. The change to include a wider variety of products that are not made in the USA was clearly announced and explained in the video posted above, and the country of origin for each product is listed on the website. In addition, the expansion into additional branded products was based on customer requests. People wanted more of it, and these products do sell, proving the demand is there. The main point is that selling shirts or other branded equipment has not changed the quality or continuous improvements of the main chemical line. The past few years have seen a huge evolution in the expansion of types of chemical products offered, which in my opinion, far exceeds the rate at which new and improved products were released during the time period before the staff changes you mentioned. And no, this thread will not get deleted or blocked as long as the forum rules are followed. As a few forum members posted in another thread, too much of the other feedback on other media channels (FB and IG) is just a drone of company bashing, which is not constructive at all. Constructive feedback is appreciated, but the main purpose of this forum is education, so customers can learn and contribute with advice, and not be exposed to all the negativity that is so prevelent on the internet. I do think your feedback is constructive, but any posts or threads that are disrespectful to other members or are simply bashing or overly negative will be deleted, simply because most people do not like that kind of negativity, as it detracts from the educational focus of this forum. As the moderators, we have to be careful to strike a balance, but I can tell you from my own experiences on other forums and social media, there is really nothing worse than an unmoderated environment that ends up being overly negative, as it drives away the types of members who simply want to learn and contribute to the knowledge by helping other members.
  6. 6 points
    Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

    New to this game

    Sorry for the wait. Here I'll tell you my process. I'm sure some others on this discussion may have some different input or suggestions to better this process, so please be open to those suggestions too. So total time I spent working hands on was around 4 hours. I'll try to give you the products I used (with links) and reasons for each step I took. This can become repetitive and tedious at times, but I'm doing so because I believe that I'm reducing the chances of damaging my paint. I think I would follow this process even if I chose to use a different type of protection, but it's pretty important to take preparation steps for a ceramic coating as @falcaineer mentioned. 1. Cleaned tires, wheels, wheel wells, and exhaust tip - I always start with this step so as to not put water on paint. If I don't put water on the paint, then the water won't dry and it reduces the chances of water spots. I go one wheel at a time rinsing my tools in between. I make sure to have all my tools and chemicals prepared before putting water on the vehicle. What I mean by that is I have a bucket full of water and a little bit of CS, and I put all of my tools in the bucket. I start by spraying water all over the wheel, tire, and wheel well. Then spray some diluted APC into the wheel wells (I use APC because the majority of my wheel wells are carpet not rubber or plastic), then I take my Fender Brush (one of my favorites) and I brush the entirety of the wheel well. Then I rinse the wheel well. I follow that by spraying TRC onto the tire face and tread block, and use a Tire Brush to clean. In this step, the tires start to turn orange/brown which shows that the tires are dirty. I repeat this step until the chemical no longer turns brown but appears white. Then I spray WC into the wheel barrel, rotors, and wheel face. You'll see the spray starting to turn red/purple, this means the chemical is reacting with and breaking down the iron/metallic particles that contaminate the wheel from brake dust and other grime from the road. I use a wheel brush to agitate the chemical, I actually like to use the Lug Nut brush to agitate the rotors and get in the lug nuts, and I also think it's a good option to use for the face of the wheel. Then I would either use a wheel woolie or a barrel brush to get the wheel barrel and the back of the spokes. Then I would make sure to rinse the tire, wheel, and wheel wells thoroughly. and to avoid scratching the wheels, I try to rinse my tools after I use them before I put them back in the bucket. Then I repeat for each wheel. For the exhaust tips, I basically just spray APC into the exhaust and use the wheel woolie or barrel brush to agitate, then rinse it all out. Chemicals used Wheel Cleaner (WC) Tire and Rubber Cleaner (TRC) All Purpose Cleaner, Diluted 1:1 with water (APC) Car Shampoo (CS) Tools used Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie or Wheel Barrel Brush Lug Nut Brush Here's Adams Process: 2. Wash Car with Strip Wash - This step is to not only clean the vehicle exterior, the strip wash is also trying to break down any protection (wax, sealant, etc.) you have on your vehicle. This can sound like a bad thing, but just keep in mind, later in this process we will be adding protection back to the paint, and likely a much better protection. We want to remove any existing protection, because we want the paint to be "naked." This will allow the coating to properly bond with the paint/clear coat. Start by having everything prepared before putting any water on the paint, once again we want to reduce the chance of water spots especially on your beautiful black vehicles. Preferably you would use a two bucket wash method, in addition I love to use a pressure washer and foam cannon. If using a pressure washer and foam cannon, put about 4-5 oz of strip wash in the foam cannon bottle, and I like to use 2-3oz of APC as well, I have seen in the past how APC is such a good degreaser that it will break down sealants and waxes. The problem there is if it dries on the paint, it can cause damage. So I was very careful about using APC. I start by rinsing the vehicle first, with only water, them immediately (since I am prepared) I attach my foam cannon and cover the vehicle in the strip wash/APC solution. I let that dwell for maybe 2 minutes. If you're not using a foam cannon you can start here by having two buckets filled with water and grit guards. One has only clean water and a grit guard, the other has your soap solution of 3-4 oz of strip wash, and here I also like to add 2-3 oz of APC again. My wash mitt(s) go in the soap solution until after I have initially rinsed the vehicle. Once I have rinsed I grab my wash mitt and go from the top of the vehicle to the bottom. I am always aware of what's on my mitt, and if I picked up dirt or sticks or whatever, I make sure to get it off by either picking it out, using the pressure washer to clean it off, and putting my mitt in the bucket with only water and rubbing against the grit guard to clean the mitt before dunking back into the soap bucket. Try to keep the vehicle wet and lubricated by squeezing your mitt to release water/soap, until you finish cleaning the vehicle, and then immediately rinse thoroughly. If you need to take a break or if you aren't prepared for step 3, I would dry. (I wasn't prepared so I dried) if you have the option to dry with air, that's a good option, if not use a microfiber towel with no drying aid, meaning don't use Detail Spray or anything just use the towel. If you can go straight into step 3, do that you will dry the vehicle after that! Chemicals used Strip Wash All Purpose Cleaner (APC) Tools used 2 Buckets Grit Guards Wash Mitt or Sponge, etc Microfiber Drying Towel 3. Chemical and Clay Decontamination- Every vehicle has contamination on it, even new ones. In this step you will be removing contamination that has been stuck in the clear coat. This step can look very different depending on who you talk to. Some people like to do this step during the wash, I'm not sure if there's a "right way", but this is how I did it following the wash and dry: I start by spraying down the vehicle (depending on the weather and if you're doing this indoor or out door you may want to go panel by panel) with IR (or you can use a diluted WC), This acts just like WC in that it's reaction with iron and metallic contamination turns red/purple. It may be hard to see on black. I didn't see it on my dark grey paint, but I could see it dripping purple on the concrete when I was washing it off... Anyways I sprayed the whole vehicle, then let it sit for 1-2 minutes. The weather was cloudy and like 50ºF. Then I rinsed it all off. Then I used a clay lube and used a clay bar to remove other contaminants that are stuck in the clear coat. I normally use very careful, very light pressure (since clay is an abrasive) and never ever do it dry. Always make sure the surface is lubricated. Do this for all the wheels, paint, glass, chrome, or anything that shines, I don't use it for my trim peices. You will see and feel your clay bar start to pick up little specs of contamination. Periodically keep an eye on how much contamination is on the clay bar, and you may need to bend/reshape the clay in order to get a clean surface before continuing. Important note: you never want to drop this on the ground. It will pick up rocks and stuff that can drag some nice scratches in your paint. That goes for microfiber towels and wash mitts too. They love to grab stuff so be careful never to put them on the ground. I like to rinse and dry once I'm done with the clay, others don't think its a necessary step. Chemicals used Iron Remover (IR) or Wheel Cleaner, diluted (WC) Clay Lube (Diluted Rinseless Wash, Diluted Car Shampoo, Detail Spray... for the Ceramic Coating prep any of these would work, but I would lean more towards the diluted car shampoo as you won't be leaving any polymers or anything on the paint) Tools Used Clay Bar of Choice (I used and Liked Visco Elastic Clay, People with large vehicles love the Clay Mitt, I think the most mild clay that would do the least amount of damage would be the Fine Clay Bar) 4. Polishing- Get indoors if you can at this point. This step is important to get your paint as perfect as possible. This is highly recommended and I recommend it. Once you apply the coating any defects your paint may have will now be sealed under the coating. My vehicle was relatively new, and I didn't have many defects to my paint, so I skipped the polishing step. Looking back, I would have done a polish even if just a RHP. Polishing will make a difference. Although I didn't do it, I would recommend you at least do a polish with the finishing polish with the white pad at this step. RHP with a blue hex grip pad (or white pad if using a machine) would be the last thing I would do before moving on. The polishing step is pretty heavily subjective depending on your preferences and your specific paint, so please feel free to ask me any questions you have about this, and I can try to answer them or point you to some help. But since I don't know the specifics, it's hard for me to direct you on here. Looking back, I would have done a polish even if just a RHP. Polishing will make a difference. Although I didn't do it, I would recommend you at least do a polish with the finishing polish with the white pad at this step. Also, The OSP with the One Step Pads look awesome and I'm excited to try them out. RHP with a blue hex grip pad (or white pad if using a machine), and remove with a microfiber towel, would be the last thing I would do before moving on. Also Work in very small sections at a time... Like 2 x 2 small. Chemicals mentioned Revive Hand Polish (RHP) One Step Polish (OSP) Finishing Polish Tools mentioned Polisher (if you don't have one, it looks like Adams in the future may be introducing a rental program for polishers) One Step Pads White Pad Blue hex grip pad Single-soft Microfiber Towel, or Double-soft Microfiber Towel 5. Surface Prep- This is crucial to the process. To fully clean the surface and remove an polishing oils or leftover wax that may be lingering. Us Adam's SP or a solution of Isopropyl Alcohol to spray down the paint and wipe with a Single-soft Microfiber Towel, or if you prefer, spray on the towel and wipe the surface. Do this for the glass and all the paint and the lights, and chrome and wheels. On the rubber trim pieces, possibly on your truck bed liner, I would use TRC with a Microfiber Utility Towel to clean those peices. I am not sure for the bed liner, maybe somebody else has a better idea for that. but then once all of this is cleaned, you're ready to move onto the coating stage. Chemicals used Surface Prep (SP) or IPA solution Tire and Rubber Cleaner (TRC) Tools used Single-soft Microfiber Towel Microfiber Utility Towel 6. Protection- Do this in the garage. This is the step to apply your protection. Whether that be Wax, Sealant, or Ceramic Coating. For the CSC, you will want to have that prepared with a few clean towels for the "removal" or "leveling" of the coating. I only used a competitors towels that I had gotten for cheap because I love Adam's towels and I don't want to throw them away if I use them for a Ceramic Coating. But that was before Adam's came out with their new ceramics line and added the suede removal towels and before I had thought about using a Microfiber Applicator as the application media. So I had two towels one for applying and one for leveling. Next time, I will use the Microfiber Applicator and a Suede Removal towel. Wear gloves. Spray the CSC a few times directly into the Microfiber Applicator. Using a cross hatch pattern apply to a small section (2x2). The cross hatch pattern is just to ensure coverage. Then wait 30 - 90 seconds until you see the surface start to flash (it turns rainbow and looks like oil on water) - make sure you have good lighting. Then use the suede removal towel to lvel the product. Basically you just gently wipe until the surface is glossy. It's important that you go over the paint where you've applied the coating. If you don't or if you miss any spots you'll get something called "high spots" on the paint which can look like streaks or build up of product. Look up some pictures of high spots on the forums. Those are no fun, you'll likely have to polish out the coating and reapply. So just be aware and diligent. That's where working in small sections can really really help. So continue moving around the vehicle like this. Make sure you get your glass, chrome, lights, and trim. The CSC is pretty much safe on all exterior surfaces. @falcaineer mentioned that on trim, you don't need to go over the second time since it will self level there. When I did it, I did go over it a second time. Next time I will try doing it without. I did not use CSC on my wheels, but you may choose do and just follow the same procedure. Once you've finished coating the vehicle, it's time to wait and let it cure. CSC needs 4 hours minimum. I left mine over night. You'll notice a huge difference in gloss. It's really special to see the results of your hard work. Chemicals used Ceramic Spray Coating (CSC) Tools used Microfiber Applicator Suede Removal Towels Gloves Make sure you throw away any towel or applicator you used for the Coating. The SiO2 will dry in the medium and essentially become shards of glass that will scratch your paint if you ever put them back on the surface. 7. Boost- After you've let the coating fully cure, this is the time to add CB if you choose to. Use less product than you think. Go one panel at a time.You would just spray the CB onto the surface and wipe with a microfiber towel, double-soft works well. Then flip the towel over (or use a second clean and dry one) and wipe until it's shiny. CB (or anything with SiO2) can also be the culprit of High Spots, so just be aware of that. I always give a second wipe down to any SiO2 product I use. If at any point you see that it's getting streaky and your dry side of the towel is no longer leading to a shine, it's time to flip the towel to a new side or get a new clean and dry towel. A good way of using microfiber towels is to have them folded into quarters, and then you have 8 total sides of a towel to switch to if one gets dirty or saturated. This goes for pretty much any time you want to use one, not just for the CB. This is the point where I got my wheels. Make sure to get your wheels! This is also when I used my tire shine or tire armor. Chemicals used Ceramic Boost (CB) Tools used Double-soft Microfiber Towel This is a great video I have found where Adam goes into pretty good detail for a lot of these steps. He does some things that I didn't do. For example he applies glass sealant and paint sealant. We don't want those because our CSC will act as the protection for both the glass and the paint. So his goal at the end of this video is different than the things we are trying to acheive, but he still takes the time to explain in detail the steps. SO it's a great video. Adam's has an awesome library of videos throughout their website and on youtube. Check those out! And you're done! now to enjoy the benefits of the coating. Your gloss will be awesome! and future washes will be easier. Just use Car shampoo and dry and all the dirt will just come flying off. Also make sure to peek the window if you ever leave your vehicle in the rain. Water will just slide off. It's likely you will use your windshield wipers less, if you coat the windshield. I rarely use my windshield wipers, I love watching the water go up up and away. In future washes just follow a normal procedure, and you can use CB about once every month or so to boost the coating after you wash your car. About every or every other wash I love to use Ceramic Waterless Wash as a detail spray and drying aid. It's an amazing product. Also there are some other shampoos like the Wash+Coat and Wash and Wax which contain SiO2 and can also add a small boost to the coating. So just find a process that works for you. There's a big initial investment of time and money especially if you're just starting off, but I found that really enjoy my time detailing my vehicle and others' vehicles. It's therapeutic and Adam's products really enhance the process for me. And once you get those tools and towels, those will last you a while with proper care, so the majority of things you'll need in the future are refills or the occasional new chemical you want to try. Speaking of care... After I finish using a towel, I immediately throw it in a bucket full of water and I'll try to have some APC in the bucket or some detergent if handy. If not, car shampoo will do. But reason for that is to start breaking down whatever the towel may have picked up. If a towel is especially dirty like when I rinseless wash or waterless wash, my towels get real dirty. I put them in a bucket of water and once I'm ready (normally just later in the day, I don't like to leave towels for more than a day) I will spray the dirty towels down with APC and Rinse them with High pressure, whether I have my pressure washer out or I can just use my outdoor spigot, which has a good bit of pressure out of the wall. I let that loosen the dirt, then I take them to the Washing Machine. Also, if I use any SiO2 product, I immediately put those in a bucket of water because even if a product has a low level of SiO2 like the Wash+Coat, Wash and Wax, Ceramic Waterless Wash, and Ceramic Boost, that SiO2 can dry if you give it enough time. So I put those in water and wash those towels as soon as I possibly can. I wash them in Cold Cold water, Adam's has their own detergent which is GREAT. Microfiber Revitalizer. And I add an extra rinse cycle. I dry like in the dryer using Low Heat or No Heat. I never ever mix my microfibers with cotton or really anything else, I normally have enough to wash a small load after a wash. Here's a thread for Microfiber Care: Below is an image of my paint after my maintenance wash yesterday. I just used CS to clean the wheels and the paint. I used TRC for the tires, and used Ceramic Waterless Wash as my drying aid with my Jumbo Plush Drying Towel (and went back over the whole car lightly with a double soft until it was shiny). Here you can see the gloss from the coating is still there, even months after I coated, and I haven't used Ceramic Boost in like 6 weeks or so: Then it obviously rained after I washed my vehicle because you know how this works, but I woke up to these nice beads: I will update this later today with some links and pictures and stuff. I hope this helps. Updated: I included links, pictures and videos. That's alot... Sorry.
  7. 6 points
    SS LeadFoot

    Only on Father's Day

    Can I get away with this!
  8. 5 points
    As far as I know, all of Adam's chemicals are still made in the USA. And that hasn't changed. The clay bar went to Korean (I think. could be wrong) several years back because it was the best clay made, and Adam has always tried to give his customers the best products he can. Same as micros. The best microfiber towels are made overseas. Yes, you can go to discount stores and buy cheap micros, but I've never found any that compare with what I get from Adam's. As for polishers, it's next to impossible to find anything mechanical made in this country any more. We all know that. And Adam's customers have demanded things like Rupes, Flex, pressure washers, undercarriage washers, etc. Adam listens, and tries to find the BEST products for a reasonable price and yet he still has to make a profit to pay his employees and operating expenses. The company has grown so large now, and demand has become so huge, that it's most likely a bit of a struggle when there are sales or holidays to get everything exactly right for every customer. They're human. And on your package's way to you, there are many hands that touch those packages too. And some of those hands aren't so gentle, and some aren't so honest. Best advice to everyone from me personally is to just relax. Be patient. Nothing in life is perfect, but we're all trying to do the best we can.
  9. 5 points

    Can you say 'contact angles'?

    This is a close up of my convertible top after Ceramic Spray. Looks pretty close to 300 degrees... - Oh, and this is with car turned on, V8 rumbling away.
  10. 5 points

    Can you say 'contact angles'?

    "I want off, I want off, I want off!" - The Bead
  11. 5 points

    Enlighten Me on Ceramic Coating

    I just ceramic coated my wife’s car last Saturday after having the kit for a few months. I too read the dire warnings on the forums about the consequences of screwing it up. So, I was a little apprehensive. But, it was just what I have come to expect of Adams products. Very forgiving for a DIY-er, the products behaved as advertised and I am delighted with the results. I uploaded a photo, hope it uploaded properly. A few things: - the rainbow flash thing in the tutorials doesn’t show up as readily on light-colored vehicles - Adam says so himself in one of the ceramic coating videos. So with a light colored car you have to use tackiness to decide when to buff rather than the flash. - the glass bottle is basically opaque, so apart from a shake test it’s hard to tell if I have enough coating left for another vehicle. I will probably bite the bullet and just buy another bottle to make sure before I coat my truck. - to maintain a controlled environment I closed myself in the garage for the job. The lights in there aren’t meant for this work thought so I bought a LED work light on a tripod to illuminate the panels as I went. Worked great. My only regret is that I waited so long to do this. Time will tell on durability but I think the coating is great.
  12. 5 points

    Step stool

    I got my Adams step stool delivered today and as promised wanted to give you my initial thoughts. It definitely exceeded my expectations. It is a better quality than I thought it would be. Very sturdy, lots and lots of grip tape, wider and longer than I thought it would be. I know they tell you the measurements but it just seems bigger than I thought it would be. Not to heavy, in fact the perfect weight for taking it out and putting it away. My driveway Is not level, which is why I almost busted my butt with my old step stool. The Adams step stool handles it no problem. No shake, no feeling of it could fall, nothing. Just a solid platform. I used it to clean the rubber around my sun roof and felt very secure. The grip tape feels like it’s holding you. I highly recommend it!
  13. 5 points

    Windshield Cleaning Question

    I would suggest a baseball bat or large rock at this point.
  14. 5 points
    SS LeadFoot

    Some After Shots!

    So as a belated father's dat gift I detailed my Dad's car. I tried a few things I haven't done before. All in all here is what I did. Did the rims and tires. Washed the car with Foam Cannon and Ultra Foam - Still getting used to the pressure washer/foam cannon combo. Dried the car with a leaf blower and then waterless wash Clayed the car Washed again with Foam Cannon and Ultra Foam Dried the car with a leaf blower and then waterless wash Applied some polish Cleaned the windows with glass cleaner then applied glass sealant. Took the sealant off with glass boost. Applied Ceramic Boost instead of Detail Spray I have to say, when I was applying the ceramic boost I was not impressed at first. Couldn't really see much of a difference. I started wiping to hood and roof and that is when I noticed a huge difference. It really brought out the metallic flakes in the paint. I had no troubles applying it. It went on really easy. Can't wait till it rains to see how the water runs off. It was too clean to poor water on it myself Let me know what you guys think!
  15. 5 points

    Ceramic Boost

    One thing that seems to get forgotten is you can develop a haze when you really start to layer products. This is even more true when laying products with different bases (sealant is not silica based like “ceramic” products are). Many enthusiasts like to touch their cars and apply product to “make it shine.” The truth is that sometimes less really is more. Before adding more product, what protection is left? What layers are still there? Wax will disappear before a sealant as an example. Frequent use of some products allows them to build up and become more difficult to work with. It’s often brought up about streaking when using too much of a product in application. Frequent application creates the same effect. My daily driver and the wife’s daily drivers are both ceramic coated (with another product, not Adam’s for full disclosure) and admittedly don’t get washed as often as they should or could. I’ve applied a spray top coat to our vehicles once or twice since application and that’s in New England winter. They were coated in August and September of last year. A wash, clay and reapplication and they looked like we had just done them. The garage queen gets washed more often, but boosted less since it’s not driven often. It gets a top coat once a year. With waxes/sealants you need to do more frequent applications, but this should be measured in months. Not days. Don’t over complicate or overthink your processes. Make it easy on yourself and pick a set of products that work for you and stick with them. If you’re “ceramic based,” stick with them. If your traditional, stick with them. Don’t cross them over looking for a magic formula of shine. The real truth is that the gloss comes from how you finish your paint before ever applying protection. The other layers merely lock it in to with varying degree. Pick the products that fit with your style of maintaining your finish. If you’re hands on, go with products that will allow you to satisfy yourself. If you’re the “I just want to drive it” type, go with products that lend themselves to that goal. In the end you can spend a lot of money on products you don’t need or don’t fit your style and then drive yourself crazy trying to make them work for you. It’s needless stress.
  16. 5 points

    I hate Adams Shipping

    Constructive feedback is always appreciated. However, there have been past instances were some members have been overly negative in a majority of their posts, including criticising other members. This type of behavior is not allowed.
  17. 5 points
    I started renovating my house back in January, 2017 and pretty much everything else but work and family was pushed to the wayside. Finished the house and got it sold, moved from VA to NC, bought a newly built house, and spent a few months making it 'home'. I'm finally getting back around to being able to put some time in the Stang and giving it some much needed love. It needs a paint job due to a lot of chipping/flaking and clear coat failure in a handful of spots, but that's not stopping me from getting it looking it's best. I spent this past weekend knocking the following out: Strip wash Two passes with clay Strip wash to remove clay residue Three step polish where I could get (currently only have the SK21) HCP with the blue foam pad CP with the orange foam pad PFP with the white foam pad The hood was the only exception in that I started with the MF cutting pad Strip wash to remove polish residue Whole car topped with H20 GG. I'd completely forgotten why I love Adam's so much (that's a lie, but needed for emphasis). It still has a ways to go, but definitely a major step in the right direction.
  18. 5 points
    Captain Slow

    Happy Fathers Day!

    My 10 year old twins turn 11 tomorrow so we had a party for them today to accommodate guests working schedules. After their cake and ice cream they presented me with handmade Fathers Day cards.♥️ I am so humbly blessed to have these two as my daughters. Happy Fathers Day fellow fathers.
  19. 4 points

    H20 Guard & Gloss as Clay Lube?

    I had never considered it, but after thinking about it I wouldn't do it, either. Clay is meant to clean and decon paint, and can/will remove protection while using it. I'd think it would remove protection you're trying to apply with the HGG, defeating the purpose. I also think lubrication would be an issue because less is more with HGG, and you need a lot of lube for clay, so streaking is a strong possibility. In fairness, DS adds some minor protection, too, but not nearly as much as the HGG. Plus, I don't think you'll like the results, much like I don't like clay residue left behind when using DS. All that said, you could certainly try, it's your car. But I reecommend you stick with DS or diluted RW, and a a wet/soapy car.
  20. 4 points

    New Cordless Polisher & One Step!

    Check out these before & after shots of the New Cordless Polisher in action along with the New One Step Polish & New Pads. As you can see this combo did a great job!
  21. 4 points

    4th of July Savings Event!

    This isn't just a sale, its a SAVINGS EVENT!!! 15% off on orders up to $150, and 20% off on orders over $150 No discount code needed, discount is automatically applied in the cart. Plus, get free shipping on orders over $85 (total after discount, continental US only) CLICK HERE TO SHOP
  22. 4 points
    Can't wait to see pictures! Next time, I recommend you use the grey microfiber pad instead...goes a lot faster! Spray directly into the pad and apply in the same crosshatch pattern.
  23. 4 points
    Captain Slow

    What did you do today?

    My lovely wife and I picked yet more raspberries from the bushes next to the deck... and yes, they’re delicious!
  24. 4 points

    Adams Purple Shirt

    had to make a shirt to match my car
  25. 4 points
    I’m on a family road trip and staying at a cabin in Missouri. After driving 1,400 miles over two days I finally got here and had to wash my ride. The bugs on the front end and side mirrors were insane, of course. Prior to leaving home I washed with Adams regular car wash and topped off with ceramic boost while drying. After getting here 3 days ago, I washed in the evening using Adams new Ceramic Wash. Let me tell you, having the vehicle not only ceramic coated 19 months ago but topped off fresh with Ceramic Boost before the trip really really helped the bugs come off rather easily. I also pre made a small spray bottle with diluted car wash in it before leaving home to pre spray the bugs before washing to help loosen them up and did a pre soak before washing with the ceramic car wash. Anyways, I did that regularwash 3 days ago so this morning I did a Ceramic Waterless Wash as we haven’t had rain and the truck just needed a touch up. I absolutely love the results Adams products provides, especially the new ceramic infused products. Here are two pics after the ceramic waterless wash today:
  26. 4 points

    New Red Vehicle and Ceramic Paste Wax

    After a couple of months of research, test drives, more test drives, the wife picked out her new vehicle and we brought it home on Thursday. She wanted a 5 passenger SUV to replace the Malibu and there are a limited number of mid-size SUV's that have the creature comforts. She could have had whatever she wanted and it came down to three candidates, Range Rover Velar, Buick Envision Premium II and GMC Terrain Denali. Her primary item was ride comfort since we use her vehicle for trips the majority of the time. In addition to her last three, we had tested the Cadillac XT-4 and XT-5, Chevy Blazer, Range Rover Evoque 2020 and multiple others. There are some mighty fine vehicles between them and the one that really surprised us was the GMC Terrain Denali. While it is built on the same chassis as the Equinox, it is not an Equinox by any means - the father-in-law has one and it wasn't even on our radar. The ride is unbelievably smooth, it is super quiet inside and she got it with every added feature you can imagine and a few that we had not thought of. The 2013 Chevy Malibu is no longer at my house, although it was a great car. What does any good Adam's customer do when they get a new vehicle, detail it with one of their favorite Adam's products and that has become Ceramic Paste Wax for me. I think we are going to change the Chrome Mirror Caps for body color painted ones, but for now they need to shine. The wheels were done with Ceramic Boost, the tire Tire Shine and the entire body with Ceramic Paste Wax, Glass Sealant on the Windshield exterior, Brilliant Glaze on the Windshield interior. The grill took what seemed liked eternity to do, but I sat on my platform stool and worked away and am pleased with the results. I was going to have the front end done with XPel right away, except our local dealer has closed, so I have to travel about a 100 miles to get it done - hopefully this week. We still plan on going with a professional grade ceramic coating which will be late summer or early fall - at least before the weather turns cold up north. I do have one question, the front seats are heated and ventilated and the back seats are heated all of them being leather. I have conditioned many leather seats, but this is the first set that are ventilated and I'm looking for any gotcha's on the conditioning routine. I like to condition the seats early on to get some protection and start the bi-annual preventative maintenance. Any input on the ventilated seats would be appreciated.
  27. 4 points

    Swirl killer snafu

    Thank you Adams for getting me my polisher today. I very much appreciate it and all that you do!
  28. 4 points
    It’s harder than clear coat. It’s not impervious to damage. Poor technique will damage any finish.
  29. 4 points

    Swirl marks post Ceramic Coating

    I know there are elsewhere in forum someplace and I just couldn't locate them with a search, so I'm attaching them here. Print them and leave it in your vehicle so we can put it on when needed.
  30. 3 points
    I got a chance to wash and wax my GF's Outback, which was no small feat as it was 97 outside and with a little bit of a breeze made for an interesting time. In my mind, once I started washing the car, I could not be distracted as my plan was to wash the entire car within the shortest amount of time as possible so then I could bring it back inside for the actual detailing work. ETA: I went though so much VRT, as literally the entire bottom of the car was black plastic.
  31. 3 points
    Don't scratch it...now you need to re-polish 😵 🤣 And for the record 24 hrs is all you need for it to cure...
  32. 3 points
    What did you expect him to say? He's right. If you aren't happy, then move on.
  33. 3 points
    Well, there you go. "Vote with your dollar" that says alot. I've always loved Adams Polishes and recommend them to everyone. 90% of my products are Adams. It isn't so much the chemicals I'm upset with (they still rock) it's the gimmicky direction I feel the company has taken which cheapens it's appeal. This company is great and got my business because of what it was and what it stood for. I've seen Adam's explanation about Chinese products and such. I've read numerous posts. I'm simply stating that recent rebranding of some items and the price tag associated with those items are very different than what we would have seen and expected several years ago. I never fault anyone for growing a business and making a ton of money. I applaud that and I'm and advocate of Entrepreneurship and success. However, it's pretty disrespectful to build such a great customer base then tell them to vote with their dollars when they try to give feedback to you. I know I'm not the only one who agrees with my opinion though I see I'm in the minority on the forums. I just figured I'd state what I know many are thinking and hopefully this post thread will enable some to also express their dislike for the direction of the company.
  34. 3 points
    Yesterday before work, I came outside to these: Then, when I came home from work, this was my wife’s car:
  35. 3 points

    Therapeutic detailing day

    I’m still relatively new to the detailing game, but I’ve developed quite the Adams collection. I started with tire shine and it’s grown from there. Mine and my wife’s vehicles get Adams exclusively. Did a little work on my 2018 Camry XSE. Washed it with shampoo, then clayed, then a coat of brilliant glaze, and then a coat of Americana wax. The interior was vacuumed and cleaned with leather/interior cleaner, and then interior protection paste applied. Tires got Tire n Rubber cleaner then VRT, and wheels cleaned with wheel cleaner. All in all, I think it turned out well. Let me know what you guys think! I’d like to get into the polishing/paint correcting next. Here to learn before I buy a swirl killer kit next.
  36. 3 points

    Tonneau Cover Cleaning/Protecting

    Well it just so happens my mystery buckets showed up today and in them was a 4oz bottle of spray ceramic coating so I guess it is meant to be. I will order some APC and LC to get it up to par. Plan is touchless car wash > APC > LC > spray ceramic.
  37. 3 points

    Glad to be here..

    I am new to the forum, but I have been using Adams products for the last 4 years. I used to be a Meguiars user for many years, spending all night getting my cars ready for shows to get that slick finish......that Adams produces in minutes instead of hours. Once I started using Adams products, I won't let anything else touch my car. Currently I have a 2014 100th anniversary Charger, a 2014 numbered Challenger shaker and the drivers are a 2019 Cherokee and a 2019 Wrangler. We even got our 17 year old daughter going to the shows in her 2008 Avenger! Thanks Adams for letting me get that show shine and still have time to sleep at night!
  38. 3 points
    Needing some supplies from Adams I was excited to see they had a trailer at Barrett Jackson this past weekend. Not only was the staff friendly & knowledgeble but the deals were great as well. I just wish you were in New England more ofter as I love all your stuff. Keep up the great work
  39. 3 points
    This past weekend, my SO and I decided on a last minute trip up to Las Vegas. Heading out, I collected a far bit of dust on I-15, but Sunday was another deal entirely. Because of the bad traffic on I-15 South through the Cajon Pass, I took a few alternative routes through the desert (in Nevada: I-215 > I-515 > US-95 > Nipton Road, then in California: Nipton Road > I-15 > Minneola Road > National Trails Highway > I-40 > CA-247 > CA-18 > CA-330 > CA-210). Needless to say, I collected a ton of dirt, other grime and brake dust, so since I was working from home this week, I took the liberty of getting all of the dirt off. I probably should I used the Iron Remover, but I noticed that I was out, so I just placed an order for that and a few extra things. It was much fun though driving through the desert on very empty side roads, as I was able to fully enjoy the turbo inline 6.
  40. 3 points
    For much longer lasting results, I'd recommend the Ceramic Spray Coating. Rinse, scrub with APC, rinse, allow to dry completely, and finally apply the coating (use the grey microfiber pad for faster application). No need to wipe away the residue like you would on paint, it will self level.
  41. 3 points

    Adamized the Raptor

    You sure that is not shaving cream!
  42. 3 points

    Adamized the Raptor

    Tried out the Mega Foam Shampoo today. It goes on THICK and has good hang time. Seemed adequately lubricating. Used 2oz in the Adam's Foam Cannon with the electric pressure washer delivering 2.1 gpm at 1900 psi. If you are on Instagram, I posted a video to @danwolf73
  43. 3 points
    I completed my mission a couple of hours ago with a Waterless Wash and Brilliant Glaze of the Terrain. The BG sure does make a clean vehicle Ceramic Paste Wax pop. I'm beginning to think the wife is happy with her new ride, she's put almost 500 miles on it and we taking it on a short trip today, hence the need to make it pop.
  44. 3 points

    New to Paint Correction

    Id follow the advice above. I was in your position last year..but i was terrified to even hold a machine near my paint for fear of screwing it up bad. I purchased the 15mm sk and used the 3 step polishes....id say its near idiot proof. It came Out pretty dam good for first time correcting. Wagch a few videos and go for it.
  45. 3 points

    HGG over ceramic line?

    Please tell that to my wife. 🙏🏼🤣
  46. 3 points

    HGG over ceramic line?

    I actually found the CSC looking for a coating that has less cure time than the usual 12-24 hours of thicker coatings. This is on a daily driver that sits outside. 12 hours after a wash it has some dust on it from a busy highway nearby, and it almost always has dew settled on it overnight. I applied it in the morning after a rainy night (keeps the dust down a bit). So, yeah, the 4 hour cure time was just what I was looking for. It’s also very forgiving. I think Adam’s recommends an MF towel, but I used an MF applicator. It rainbows like any true ceramic; however, it still comes off easy if you leave it on too long. I even had the sun hit it mid process, and it still came off easy. I wouldn’t recommend applying it in direct sunlight or on a hot surface, but, you know, stuff happens when you’re working outside. Wait. What. I didn’t realize the CWW could also be used as a drying agent. I’ll be trying that. Ah! Ha! So maybe some of the comments I’ve read might be talking about the old version. I’ve read some saying there is NO SiO2 in HGG, and others saying there is 5%. That clears up some confusion. I haven’t purchased the HGG yet, so I’ll make sure it’s the new version. I was thinking I would try HGG in the summer and then stick with the Ceramic Boost just before winter. From what I understand, the Boost is the more-durable of the two? Not much car washing around here from December thru February… maybe a touchless drive thru if its above freezing for a few days. Thanks for the replies!
  47. 3 points

    Adam's Storage crates

    I bought two of them when they were available and wasn't even sure I'd fine a use for both. As my wife reminds me on a regular basis, I've been wrong before and will be wrong again and I should have bought about 8 of them. I have one that travels with me and would really like to have to keep in each vehicle, plus have a few for the garage - hmmm, maybe I need more than 8...
  48. 3 points

    Car Washing/Detailing must haves!!

    If you are new to Adams and looking to start getting a bunch of their products i would highly recommend it. The more money the Mb is the higher the guaranteed product amount is. Did you scroll through the MB pics page? Sometimes its just basic stuff (thats always usable and great for a newbee) or you could get lucky and get a huge haul. Ive ordered numerous boxes, bags organizers last year or so and have never been disappointed. I def have received products i would not have normally ordered and now use everything!! Go for it.
  49. 3 points
    Captain Slow

    Official Beading Photo Thread

    Standing in the parking lot in the rain snapping pics of beads on my SS. That’s Adam’s Spray Wax doing the beading.
  50. 3 points

    Happy Fathers Day!

    Happy Father's Day!
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