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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2019 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    So, I've been on the forums for a couple months now. Slowly building my Adams detailing gear and materials. I posted in the newbie forum ("new to this game")and had some great discussion. Before I go any further I do want to say thanks to @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin @falcaineer @RayS and many others on the forum for being so helpful and responsive. @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin provided a very detailed write up on my post that I would say anyone should read, detailing steps for Exterior prep and Ceramic Spray Coating. Thanks all! For this thread, I will be focusing on the Engine Bay and Interior steps that I have taken so far on my full detail. I will be completing the exterior and Ceramic coating later on this week (after the rain blows through) I was very hesitant to even attempt the engine bay cleaning but I did a ton of research, talked with forum members and watched Adam's videos over and over and came up with my plan. Here is what I used: Engine Bay: Eco APC VRT "milk" (my ratio was 30% VRT/ 70% distilled water) Block Applicator Lug Nut Brush Wheel Brush Oil-Less Air Compressor Adam's Step Ladder (I'm short, so this makes my life easier ) As I said, I was a little skiddish to try this but I just used common sense and followed the videos that I had seen describing methodology. I started here on the engine bay because I knew I would get the truck wet in the process and figured I would have overspray. So why not start here and work outward. Here is a video that I like of Adam demonstrating. I first removed all leaves and debris from the bay. I set my water hose on the "Flat" setting which gave me a light mist of water but it was forceful enough to move dirt while not dumping a ton of water on my engine and components. I chose not to use my pressure washer mainly because I wanted more control of what I was doing. I sprayed all the loose dirt that I could see off. I then soaked the bay with the Eco APC. Using my soft wheel brush I agitated all of that and followed up with my Lug Nut brush on all the spots that I could not reach without banging the brush around on stuff. Using the "Flat" water hose I then rinsed off all the APC. I followed up with my air compressor and blew out as much water as I could. It was not COMPLETELY dry but it was not standing water on any of the engine bay. From this point I sprayed the VRT "milk" over the entire engine and closed down the hood. I went on about my business and started cleaning the interior of the vehicle and mats and such (detailed below). Once I was done with the interior I opened the hood back up and used the block applicator to knock down the wet shine or places where there was more product than I personally wanted. In the spots I missed I used the block applicator to apply there. Here are the before and after pics of the engine bay. So, while that was marinating, I moved on to the interior of the vehicle. Below are the materials that I used: Interior: Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner Interior Detailer Glass Cleaner Tire and Rubber Cleaner Tire Brush Leather Conditioner Microfiber towels Vacuum Cleaner w/ attachments I started here by removing all the Rubber floor mats from the truck. I also removed any and all pieces inside that would make them easier to clean. I have several coin holder type rubber inserts in my truck and they are all removable. I also pull all of my headrests off the seats to make the glass in the back of the truck easier to reach and also make them easier to dress at the later stages. So, I saw this video of Adam doing a winterization on a SUV in a public, pull up, pressure washer bay. In this video he had a tip to take out any rubber mats and hang them up on the wall using their clamps and spray them down with TRC. Then use the Tire Brush to really scrub them down. So I "RE'd" something of the sort here at my house and did just that. A good spray off with the water hose and then soaked with TRC and scrubbed with the Tire Brush. Then I hung them up and let them soak while I worked on the interior. Video: I stated with a thorough vacuum of the entire truck. I used to not do this part first but I found that I kick up dust doing this as a last step and end up with dust on my interior pieces after they have been wiped down. So after a thorough vacuum of the carpet, I moved on to cleaning all of the glass in the vehicle. I tried both types of glass cleaner that Adams has and I think I like the Green Spray bottle the best. I can get a real fine mist with a full pull of the trigger where the can gives me a wide foam spray. Next I moved on to cleaning my leather seats and any other heavily soiled parts of the interior of the truck. I used the Leather and Interior Foam Cleaner and a microfiber towel and it worked great. I did want to try the Interior Detailer (got both of these in a Mystery Bucket BTW) so I grabbed a second microfiber and used that on all my plastic pieces in the truck. It also worked very well. I controlled both of these products by introducing them into the MF towel and then wiping on to the desired surface. After cleaning, I then went on to the Leather conditioner and wiped down all the leather in the truck. This is where having the headrest removed also helped. I could really get all the way to where the leather ended at all parts of the truck without smearing on the glass or other surfaces. I could also hold the headrest in my hand and use the conditioner outside of the vehicle. Now I moved back to my Rubber floor mats. I hosed them off thoroughly and hung them back on the rack to dry. It was at this point that I moved back to the engine bay cleaning as mentioned above to visit and assess the shine of the VRT "milk". Here are some pics! BEFORE All in all, I am very pleased so far with the ease of use of all these products, especially for the shade tree novice like myself. I'll be taking pictures and posting about my exterior process and coating soon. Thanks again y'all!
  2. 5 points
    Rb1274

    2019 Subaru Outback Paint issues

    Update... all polished and CSC... I am very happy with the results... hope it holds up strong
  3. 4 points
    Thought that was a really bad spray tan, Ray. Whew! Thanks for clarifying. ☀️🤣
  4. 3 points
    ClimbingDad

    Recent to Adams

    2014 Cadillac CTS4 2.0T Luxury edition - black. 18" factory rims. Massachusetts. I have what I guess I would call hobby level + experience with detailing - although if you asked my wife she would say I spend too much time cleaning my car. I took a body shop class after work number of years ago to refinish my 1987 Chevy Caprice - which I sold. I always have questions when I am looking at how to clean this or tha t and I decided this might be a great resource.
  5. 3 points
    Yesterday I washed the engine compartment and wheels. It got too hot so I held off washing and HGG today. Looks pretty nice.
  6. 3 points
    Go for it! It’ll be good temporary protection until you’re ready to do a full detail.
  7. 2 points
    Looks great..unreal, in-depth write up which will Be extremely beneficial to all current and future forum members!!
  8. 2 points
    Scooter Trash

    Random Thoughts

    Once you can accept the universe as matter expanding into nothing that is something. Then wearing stripes with plaid comes easy.
  9. 2 points
    TheWolf

    new 16oz bottles?!?

    The opaque HDPE bottles are not new, as they were first used a few years ago when Strip Wash was released. As stated above, the clear PETE bottles are not robust enough for the stronger chemicals, as they would eventually leak or break. To address the OCD issue, just group all the HDPE bottles on the same shelf. 😁
  10. 2 points
    The general rule is start least aggressive. I only mention it because you are just starting out. Another...don't chase perfection. It'll drive you insane. But you can get close. 🙂 That said, what has been your process? Have you only tried one pass, or more? Crosshatch, working until the polish flashes? Several poinds of pressure vs. just lightly polishing? Personally, since you're just learning and likely didn't want to think you'd cause issues, I recommend you give it another try with the CP and orange foam pad. Tape off a 2'x2' section (blue painters tape, no locking edges) and work that area first. If still no luck, to keep it simple, just move up to the HCC or, my recommendation, the new Sprayable Compound, with the microfiber pad. Work slowly and in a crosshatch pattern. Once you see what works for the smaller area, use that for the rest of the car, touching up as needed with more aggressive polish/pad. When done, you'll likely need to go back over with CP and orange foam pad, or maybe FP and white foam pad to rid the area of any haze.
  11. 2 points
    Amiguel6

    Prepping my wife’s car for ceramic

    I'd try the blue pad wih Heavy Correcting Compound or Sprayable Compound. You can use the Correcting Polish and Orange Pad as a second step in the correction process.
  12. 2 points
    falcaineer

    Adam’s Ceramic Waterless Wash

    Ceramic Waterless Wash quickly moved into my Top 3 from Adam's. Love it. Car looks great 💯
  13. 2 points
    TR6speed

    Ceramic Kit

    I purchased the Ceramic Spray Coating Kit after watching a video Adam did on a daily driver. I now have a few questions. First, I understood that this was a simply application (not counting the prep work). I just read a post on it being sticky after application and concern about dust sticking to the finish. Replies said not to worry if in a garage and to let id cure for 24 hours. Was this in reference to the Spray Ceramic. Next question is how long can I expect this to last if the boost is used. I was planning to do the wife's car (2018 Equinox) that is garage kept and we are both retired so it is again not sitting in a parking lot at work for 8-9 hours a day. The main reason is I hate to admit it, but I don't spend a lot of time taking care of it as I do my car. I was planning to do both cars, but I am having second thoughts on mine. I actually find it enjoyable to keep my car in show condition, so I may skip doing mine and stick to my standard Adams product line of products. This is my car with nothing but standard Adams products. I did a complete detail in May which consisted of clay, correction and finish polish, Brilliant Glaze and finished with a coat of Patriot Wax. Since then I have only used detail spray and spray Wax.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

    Chevrolet new design

    Thank you, gentlemen. I'll make sure to let you know the updates how all this goes. By the way it only comes in that color. Ray, excited for you to try this color. I hear it's the new red. Chris, yes please get me in contact. This will be of huge benefit to Adam's.
  16. 2 points
    RayS

    1999 Ford F-250 First Real Wash

    Thanks Chris. If you read the entire thread, especially the last sentence, you'd would have caught the point that is was worth losing the battle to win the war. One-Time Green truck to get do the Red truck many times. Absolutely a time where losing the battle resulted in the ultimate victory.
  17. 2 points
    If I may...😉🙂 Don't apply Ceramic Boost in the wind. Or be prepared to use some elbow grease.
  18. 1 point
    Matt, by the way, that one shot of the truck while in the garage looking at it from the back to the front with the reflection is a REALLY GREAT shot. The reflection looks so cool. Again, great job.
  19. 1 point
    falcaineer

    Dulled finish

    Don't get me wrong, Brian, I know he is, I've enjoyed watching some of his videos. And I'm not on FB for a variety of reasons. Still, I was curious so went straight to the source...just passing along what I learned in the hopes of helping. Anytime you have a question, please keep asking - I can go straight to the development team, as can several of the mods.
  20. 1 point
    Captain Slow

    SS winter prep detail

    It’s what we use outside in fireplaces in the summertime to keep insects away, family, friends and neighbors close, roast wienies and make s’mores on. It also helps in draining glasses of adult refreshments. We use firewood when traveling such as on the shores of Lake Superior. During your car show months we bring it indoors sans insects.
  21. 1 point
    No sir, it would not apply during drying, of course always use caution, make sure your towel is clean, I do at times go in different directions, but it would be safer to be methodical about it and go in straight lines. Key take away, is that most damage happens during the wash/dry process.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Donald! I got the dilution ratio from that embedded video. I have seen some different ratios used throughout the forum so I'm sure you get different results based on what you like. Glad my post can help someone!
  23. 1 point
    Nickfire20

    Confused about glass car products

    I do it on all interior 👍
  24. 1 point
    Good to know... Thanks Chris!
  25. 1 point
    Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

    Ceramic Spray Coating usage

    No, you want no protection on the vehicle prior to ceramic spray coating. the prep steps are essential when dealing with ceramic coating
  26. 1 point
    Tkitch92

    CERAMIC WATERLESS WASH???

    Thanks everyone!
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    To bump an old thread, YES! I understand Adam's pushes themselves as a weekend warrior, enthusiast brand. Which would have a much different need than someone who details for a living. But you can buy a 5 gallon size of many things. For a weekend warrior 5 gallons of interior detailer would last almost forever. And 5 gallons of glass cleaner? If I washed my car once a week, I would be dead before I could use it all lol. 5 gallons of Rinseless would mix up enough for me to wash about 500 cars. IMHO that's beyond enthusiast numbers for all but a really rare few. I'm not knocking Adams, but a lot of the 5 gallon offerings clearly aren't for the weekend warriors. I noticed they have a pro section on the store with 32oz of the polishes and compounds. And on the same page it says for pros to contact them to unlock custom pricing, which I'm guessing will be different than the price that's already there. I'm curious about this, as I like Adam's products and use a bunch of them. But almost $80 for 32oz of heavy correcting compound's absolutely crazy. I'm wondering about the unlocked pricing, I'm guessing you have to buy a large quantity of bottles. I don't totally follow how they decide on their pricing. Their wheel cleaner's awesome and the gallon's cheap compared to the other brands I use to use by about $30-40. Their Rinseless wash is damn good and 1/2 the price of the brand I used before it. And a lot of their other stuff's priced in line with the competition. But some of their stuff, especially their polishes and compounds are just too expensive. I would be all over the 32oz bottles if they were a good $25 cheaper. The brand I use is imported from Germany, and it's still way cheaper for the same amount. With a lot of the liquids being available in 5 gallons it would make sense for Adams, like you said to set up a team that caters to pro detailers. For a weekend warrior an 8oz bottle of compound's not bad, and the cost isn't crazy. But for someone like me who might do 3 corrections a week, as much as I'd like to. I just can't afford to use Adam's AIO. Obviously they're doing something right as they're a very successful company with a big loyal following. Anyone know about the "unlocked pro pricing" I don't have my business license yet (in the works) and I'm wondering if this would even apply to a single man mobile detailer.
  29. 1 point
    LAflare15

    Hello from Detroit, MI

    Lol, Can't wait til Monday! I have a 2019 GMC Sierra Limited SLE! Pics tomorrow!
  30. 1 point
    @Dmax_HD

    Hello from Detroit, MI

    Welcome to the forum!
  31. 1 point
    I would do one section at a time. That way if you find an application issue you only have to redo that section instead of the whole car.
  32. 1 point
    lawson4450

    Back again!

    nice!, yeah I got to get me some of that lol
  33. 1 point
    @Dmax_HD

    New from Florida!

    Welcome Mitch, glad your here! Love the new truck also!
  34. 1 point
    SIM CAMARO

    Thank You!!! Apple Cider!!!!

    The apple cider car shampoo is the best! I love the smell! I did suggest it back on Aug. 9th 2018....so How about a free bottle or something? My other suggestion was cinnamon donut....maybe, next year?!?
  35. 1 point
    SouthernSteve

    Converting to Ceramic Spray Coating

    Thank you, Ray, for the detailed write up and pics. The Chevy looks radiant! I was following this since my truck’s coating, over 4 years old and was a professional one, is starting to show signs of coming to an end. Ive been torn between another coating or try the wax....🤔 one reason for not going with the professional coating sting is that the brand I had on is not offered in the area we moved to and the local guy who does professional coatings has never called back. I can do a coating myself but was contemplating a switch. Now more decisions with your post here...😁
  36. 1 point
    Parad0x

    Thank You!!! Apple Cider!!!!

    I said it when released and I’ll say it again: This scent in a shampoo needed a gallon release! It really does smell great. 👍
  37. 1 point
    Devon527

    Pressure Washer Recommendations?

    I know this is an Adams forum, but Matt at Obsessed Garage has purchased hundreds of "budget" pressure washers and tested to see which ones were up to par, all his videos on this are on Youtube. I would definitely go electric, if you get the right one, it will do everything a gas one would. If I didnt have my Kranzle, I would most likely buy *****. EDIT: Also another thing, PSI is not what really matters, its the GPM or Gallons Per Minute that is the big factor to figure out.
  38. 1 point
    Amiguel6

    NEW Ceramic Glass Coating!

    Cool Stuff! Should be available today I'm thinking. https://youtu.be/9HfCZrx_A8Y
  39. 1 point
    Eswear

    New member from UT

    Once I get them cleaned up from the last rain storms we had I will.
  40. 1 point
    Welcome, Kevin! P.S. Thanks for saving me the hassle, JR 😄
  41. 1 point
    tlbullet

    New Retail Store Coming to CA, Sep 2019

    I didnt watch the whole video but looks like a few new products are getting released Monday!! Hoping for cali DS online!! They blurred out the pics though!! New store looks awsome. Anybody visit the store yet???
  42. 1 point
    Thank you! I have $400 worth of goodies in my cart on adams website ready to go! Taking advantage of the free shipping + 15% off going on right now saving a ton verses Amazon though it will take longer to get to me that is ok. My wife is not going to be happy just dropped $60k for our SUV now $400 in detailing products but my excuse is "darling we need to protect our new truck right?" Lol.
  43. 1 point
    RayS

    Super VRT on Weathertech Floor Mats?

    The cleaner can be picked up from most of the distributors. The list of distributors is under Store Locator on the products site, you can also stop by your local Chevy dealer since it is product the larger dealers will have on hand. Yes, they'll even sell the products to a Ford owner, but they might try to convince you to get a new truck while you are there.
  44. 1 point
    Yesterday I rinseless washed the SS using Adam’s Rinseless and a plethora of MT towels in a bucket. Tires were cleaned with Adam’s Tire & Rubber Cleaner. Wheels cleaned with whatever car shampoo was left in my iK sprayer. Tires were treated to a layer of Adam’s Tire Shine plus each wheel and caliper got a spritz of Ceramic Boost to top off the competitor’s wheel coating. No LSP on the paint as I can’t make up my mind on what direction I’m going...
  45. 1 point
    I wonder why adams hasnt gone the franchisee route like chemical guys has done with their detail garage. They opened one up here just outside of baltimore which is a 35 min drive from me here in DC. alot of those customers are adams faithfuls that hate waiting and payin lg for shipping and opt to go there instead.
  46. 1 point
    mc2hill

    DIY LED light build

    We have learned proper lighting is important when chasing swirls. I have been using a pair of 500w halogen lamps on a stand for several years. These work great, and are nice to be around in the winter, but they are brutal in the warmer months. I have seen the LED work lights (pic below) with a similar setup. They are much cooler to work around, but the light is not as bright as the halogens and do not show imperfections as well. I have seen a few different DIY LED light stand builds on other forums, and after seeing Sizzle Chest’s setup I decided to give it a try. Most of the parts are fairly inexpensive, using lightweight photography equipment, but the bulbs are pricey! I started with a stand that included a carrying bag - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DYHRH4? psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 This stand has a minimum height of 53”, and a maximum of 100”. It works great for hoods, roofs, and trunks, but just OK for sides. For that reason I am looking at 2 other stands: This one that has a minimum of 33”, max of 80” - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEUA30/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W8PMFWAIX1V2&coliid=I2S0K4VP91Z62V&psc=1 Or this one that is much shorter – Min 17”, max 40” http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Collapsible-Aluminium-Photography-Portrait/dp/B00X5GCG12/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1433004584&sr=1-5 The second stand includes a ‘stud’ that is attached to the lower leg to allow a second light head to be attached. The downside is the stud must be removed to collapse the stand. There are clamps available to allow you to mount a light head almost anywhere and if I go with the first stand I would add one of these – http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00355GFMO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W8PMFWAIX1V2&coliid=IB3IMSHH6UKOR The light ‘head’ is the simple part. It is a double mount bracket, with an on/off switch for each lamp, and a short 9’ cord. This just slides over the top of the stand and is tightened down. There are other fiddly bits on the bracket, but as I am not a photographer, I have no idea what they are for. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZUVX8G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2W8PMFWAIX1V2&coliid=I1UB3VZ74Z4A4V So far so good, less than $30 (light head $10.99 + stand $15.99). Now about the light bulbs: There are lots and lots of different types of LED light bulbs out there but to replicate the sun you need a daylight bulb – somewhere around 5000 kelvin on the color temp scale. I was able to find my bulb at Lowe’s, but it seems to be an item they are discontinuing – http://www.lowes.com/pd_150661-75774-LPAR3814005KLEDG5___?productId=50107550&pl=1&Ntt=led+par38+daylight It is a size PAR38, 23W (120W equivalent), 5000K, Daylight, Dimmable floodlight bulb. The only store in my area that carried them was the near my house and I picked up 4. Even on ‘closeout’ they were $25.99 EACH! The upside to these bulbs is they have a life of 25,000 hours, so unless you break them, they should last a long, long time. Speaking of breaking them, this setup is very top heavy. The first time I used it I had the stand set at about 6’, bumped into it, and it fell on to the trunk of the A8 I was polishing! After a few choice words, my stomach dropped when I saw white marks on the paint! The heat fins from the bulb had marked the paint. Luckily it was just paint transfer and was quickly removed with the polisher, with no further damage to the car or the lights. After that I decided to look for a simple fix and found it at a local thrift store: Discarded ankle weights! I paid $3 for one at the thrift store, but they are about $17 new (I bought a pair when I got tired of driving around to the Goodwill’s). This is one I found (they only had one), and it easily fits over the upright part of the stand, and provides just enough weight to offset the bulbs. I removed 2 of the weight packs, so it is probably at 4 pounds. The plus with these is they wrap around the light stand when it is folded. So now we are up to $80 Stand $15.99 Light head 10.99 2 LED bulbs 50.00 Weights 3.00 Not too bad and much cheaper than a pair of the LED work lights with a stand. Here is what you get: So how well do they work? A shot of both lights on full: The halogen mounting bracket puts them farther apart than the LED bracket, but that is not really an issue: LED: Halogen: Why are they better then Halogens? Front of lights vs. Now the temp at the back: vs. Other options: You could add a boom to put the light over a flat surface (hood, roof, etc.) Conclusions: I really enjoy working with the LED lights. They are more comfortable to work around, and I prefer the whiter light they produce. I think they show more defects too. They also draw less power, so no more worry about tripping a fuse when using the lights and the polisher. Please feel free to ask questions or suggest improvements. I am not a photographer, nor an electrical engineer, so there are probably better ways to do this!
  47. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    Serious Paint Correction I needed a vehicle to test out the new Rupes polishers, and made the mistake of offering to correct the paint on this 2000 Porsche Boxster. Before seeing the car, I had figured it would be a good tester since it is small, and has a convertible top, so less paint to work on. My sister-in-law dropped it off at my house while I was still at work, and when I got home and looked over the filthy car, I texted her and told her to come back and pick it up! It had severely swirled paint, lots of deep scratches, and scuffs everywhere from the car cover. And it was covered in maple tree whirly-birds and sap. OVERALL STEPS: Vacuum interior Strip wash Clay bar Strip wash again Dry exterior with Master Blaster Dry jambs with Waterless Wash Towel Mask off all trim and convertible top Correcting Polish Waterless Wash Finishing Polish Strip wash Sealed with H20 Guard and Gloss Clean all interior plastic and leather Clean carpets Dress interior with Leather Conditioner Clean interior glass Dress trim with VRT Apply Tire Shine DAY ONE: I like to vacuum the interior before washing to get all the dirt out of the door jambs, so that it does not get blown out onto the paint when drying with the Master Blaster. Cleaned all the tree litter out of the jambs. Washed and scrubbed and washed some more. I don't think the wheel barrels had ever been cleaned, the wheel bucket water turned black. Clay bar decon with Detail Spray, then strip washed again to remove all the residue. Scrubbed the wheel barrels again, more black water. Forced air dry, then pulled into the garage to towel dry the jambs, then let it sit overnight. 5 hours to get it clean... DAY TWO: Masked off all the plastic and rubber trim so I could polish right to the edge of the paint. Masked the top with plastic to keep polish splatters and residue dust off the fabric and also ran a row of masking paper across the cowl. Used the halogen flood lights to inspect the damage, and removed some stubborn sap with IPA. Started with a test section on a quarter of the hood, with a speed setting of 4. The Rupes 15mk2 made short work of the swirls, removing them by the time the polish flashed. However, to remove some of the deeper scratches, I had to work those sections two to three times longer. Used the Mini to polish the mirrors, around the windshield, and some complex curves on the trunk lid. 6 hours on the paint correcting step... Did a quick Waterless Wash to remove the polish dust and any missed residue. While some would consider this unnecessary, I like to work clean and also think that it is worth the extra 15 minutes to not have Correcting Polish dust getting picked up on the finishing pad. After the correcting step, I considered calling it good, since this 16 year old car had a fair amount of chips and deep scratches that could not be fixed. Ended up doing a quick round with the Finishing Polish, which took about an hour. Results were a major improvement. DAY THREE: Pulled all the masking, then stripped washed again to remove all the polishing dust and any missed residue. Applied H20 Guard & Gloss with the car wet, being very careful not to spray any onto the fabric top. I had not planned to clean the interior, other than the vacuuming, because just polishing the paint was too much work. But, my wife saw how dirty it was, and offered to help clean it, since she is good friends with my sister-in-law. Normally, if I was going to clean the interior, I would have done it first, rather than having to be very careful with the freshly polished paint. We used Leather & Interior Cleaner on all the interior plastic and leather seats, then wiped everything again with damp towels to remove any excess cleaner left behind. Then my crazy wife decides she is going to use the Bissell and Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner on the carpets, so I let her do that while I hand wash all the towels. Finished by cleaning the interior glass, then dressing all the exterior trim with VRT. The HGG had made some decent improvement on the fade trim, but the VRT made it look new again. After inflating the nearly flat ties to the proper pressure, applied Tire Shine. 5 hours for this final day...plus another hour of cleanup. ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: As expected based on other reviews of the Rupes polishes, they have a good deal more correcting power than the Cyclo. However, these single-pad machines take a bit more technique to keep the pad flat on the surface, without adding too much pressure, whereas the Cyclo takes almost no effort to run evenly. I think the major drawback to the Rupes tools is cost, since you need to have the two machines to get most of the areas. Around the windshield and some tighter curves on the trunk lid could not be done with the 6" pads on the 15mk2. I could have done the entire vehicle with just the Cyclo, even the mirrors with some careful handling, it just would have taken longer to get the correction needed. With the Rupes polishers listing at $700 for the pair, the Cyclo at $380 is a bit more than half the cost. So for polishing a couple properly maintained vehicles a year, the Cyclo would still be my recommendation. If you regularly work on correcting neglected paint, then the time savings with the Rupes machines would be realized and justify the additional cost. Also, the inability to machine polish the side intakes has given me the itch for a Nano...now just how to justify that cost.
  48. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    WAX RE-MELT My tub of Americana Paste Wax was about half used up, and had really broken up. This wax is not the new version, but about 2 years old. To re-melt it, I used a double-boiler, adding just enough water to the level that the wax container, without the lid, just started to float. With the heat on medium, I watched the wax to see when the smallest specs just started to melt, then reduced the heat to low. On low heat, it took about 20 minutes for the wax to completely melt. It is important to melt the wax VERY slowly, with just enough heat to get it right over the melting temperature. Using higher heat to melt faster can degrade the wax. Do not leave unattended on the stove, watch for melting and adjust the heat as low as possible. Note that if you have just a few cracks in the wax, you can still get it onto an applicator, so I would not re-melt for that. But if it is broken into chunks like this one, then the only way to get it onto an applicator is to rub a chunk onto the face of the foam. In short, only re-melt if really needed. Once melted, I carefully removed it and let it cool off and solidify. Also, be very, very careful with melted wax. At 180+ degrees it can cause severe burns and will stick to the skin, causing even more damage. Take special care, and do not leave unattended on the stove where a child could get hurt. One last tip, this is best done when the lady of the house is out. You don't want to get in trouble for using her cookware for detailing stuff, and you certainly don't want to let her know that you can actually run the stove by yourself.
  49. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    SEALED AND PROTECTED Shiny, Shiny, Shiny
  50. 1 point
    TheWolf

    Adamized the Raptor

    It was time for the Fall Detail to add some fresh layers of protection before it starts to snow. While there were a some very minor scratches and scuffs, I did not do any paint correction as I plan to only do that for the Spring Details. With the snow, ice, road sand and deicing chemicals, there will be some inadvertent paint damage that will need to be addressed next time. Also, since I did the wheels a few weeks ago and did a full interior detail last weekend, the steps shown only addressed the exterior body of the truck. FALL DETAIL AND WINTER PROTECTION Strip washed the truck with pressure washer and foam cannon containing 4oz CWS and 2oz APC, used a wool wash pad and rinsed it in the grit guard bucket between panels, thorough rinse with DI water. Clay bar treatment with DS. Rinsed off residue with pressure washer, wiped down with 50% APC dilution and wash mitt, DI rinse and then dried with Metro Sidekick. Finish drying with Great White Drying Towel. Applied Glass Sealant to the windows. I did this first to make is easier to remove residue when I put QS on the window trim. Applied QS to all plastic and trim, leveled with foam applicator and wiped residue with Singe Soft Towel. Polished with Revive, using the Cyclo and White Foam Finishing Pads. Removed residue with Double Soft Towels. Used the Metro Sidekick to blow off the polish dust that collects in the nooks and crannies. Wipe down paint with 50% IPA dilution and Single Soft Towels. Sprayed the towels rather than the paint to keep from stripping the QS off the trim. Applied another coat of QS to the trim to add additional protection from staining and to seal the paint right next to the trim. LPS with Black Machine Sealant Pads on the Cyclo, removed residue with Double Soft Towels. Americana Paste Wax with Black Machine Waxing Pads on the Cyclo, removed residue with Double Soft Towels. Since I did not want to strip the sealant off the wheels, I covered them with cardboard to keep the foam off. Here's the lineup. Since I rinsed with DI water, I did not have to dry or worry about water spots before using the clay bar. And some Revive Polish to clean the paint so the sealant gets a good bond. The towel on the left removed the residue from the Revive, but the two towels on the right show additional residue removal with a wipe-down using the IPA dilution. I think having the paint as clean as possible is important for the longevity of the sealant. One big benefit to the Cyclo on a truck this big is that I can reach the middle of the roof without having to lean against the side. Time to do the laundry. I will give these a rinse and then presoak them overnight in a wash bucket with 3oz of MFR&B. Then I will run them through the washer and dryer. And the required "Product Reflection Photo". Photos of the final results to follow...
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