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Junior

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About Junior

  • Rank
    Master AF Detailer

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  • Location
    Atlanta GA
  • Real Name
    Jamey

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  1. I can attest, Emery is the man, dude has helped me out a ton. The guy gets it, and exceeds expectations. It’s rare to see that these days.
  2. Dwell time and cling is greatly,increased. So that lets the softening agents and emulsifiers do more work on grime. I have used mine with a few ounces of soap, twenty sprays of APC, a few drops of Rinseless and the rest water. I use that for pretreatment of dirty lower portions of trucks, wheels, and bug guts. It works pretty nicely. You can see the mud and grime melting off the vehicle. After that dwells and basically dries for real dirty trucks, I blast with a hose and there’s very little left to have to scrub or agitate. On wheels, I go to scrubbing while it’s still foamy.
  3. It should work on plastic just fine. If you already used the leather and interior cleaner on these spots I would do as Rich suggested and move to the conditioner. However if you only used the Interior Detailer, it may be worth testing a small spot with the cleaner. Those pics look like residue to me but never hurts to be cautious.
  4. Actalky the more I look at the pics the more I think residue is still there. So if it was me, I would likely do a test spot with the leather and interior cleaner. That is assuming he used the Interior Detailer. But he hasn’t answered my question. If his answer was that he did use the leather and interior cleaner already then I would say STOP cleaning and move on to the L con. However we don’t know that. We need more info from him to really determine the correct answer here.
  5. Ah I keep forgetting the Leather Conditioner has some cleaning properties. So I guess that would be the best thing to try first! Good point Rich. Least aggressive 👌
  6. Scott, sorry you are having this issue. The good news is I think you can minimize it if not reverse it altogether. When you say you used interior Detailer and leather cleaner, are you referring specifically to the Adams Interior Detailer? The reason I say that is that product only has light cleaning capabilities. The best product to deep clean the interior plastics, leather, and vinyl would be Adams Leather and Interior cleaner. And in your case, the scrubbing mitt might be a good choice or one of the Adams Deep clean eraser. Follow that up with a healthy application of the leather conditioner and you should get great results that can be maintained with the interior Detailer. Utility towels are also great for steering wheels where you really need to get a good amount of grime off them in tight spots where brushes and scrubbing media don’t reach well. Don’t use too much product or pressure though. Try to go with the least aggressive method to start out. I said all that to say there are a ton of tools and methods for tackling this job. Some are more aggressive than others.
  7. I made a post about the man a few weeks back and once again I think he needs to get credit for doing an excellent job sorting through a few issues for me. This guy is very responsive and easy to correspond with. Emery you may or may not realize it, but you make a huge impact on us customers when you resolve things the way you have for me. The whole team at Adams is great for sure, but I really have been impressed with this young fella. Keep up the great work and you are sure to impact many others and foster repeat business for your company. I believe Adams is lucky to have people like you working for them.
  8. Maybe there was another protectant or build up on the dash prior to your application of Interior Detailer. Similar to detailing an exterior surface, you want to clean the surface prior to dressing (paint, tires, trim etc) when necessary. Otherwise, the dressing may not level and apply evenly. Might be worth trying the leather and interior cleaner first on a dash or surface you are not sure about. I do that on most of the cars I detail as a standard.
  9. Junior

    Odor

    yep
  10. Man once it sets in it’s pretty difficult to get out. I have a ton of waterproof towels now😖. I just pretty much try and make sure now that I wash towels in specific loads to avoid cross contamination. People say you can boil them, but I tried it and it never helped mine. So now any time I’m using H2O I prep a bucket with warm water and MFBR and throw the towels in as soon as I’m done. I wring them out several times to help get most of the H2O out and allow them to soak for a bit before washing.
  11. Yeah I’m not saying it won’t last longer but honestly for the amount of work it takes, I’d rather spend the time doing other things. I’ve never gotten it to remove without some level of high spots and that’s after applying by machine. I’m just trying to give my perspective based on the times I’ve used the three products mentioned. H2O is somewhere between BW and LPS in longevity, but destroys both in ease of application, things you can apply on, and gloss. If I’m detailing for a client I’m reaching for that 10 times out of 10.
  12. Junior

    Help Us Help You

    @Kyle@Adams I was also thinking about all the Mystery Boxes I bought and ended up getting duplicates of things I already had most of the time. It wasn’t too big of an issue because many times I either wouldn’t have to reorder or I could give some product to my customers. Just curious if you guys would ever do a more specific mystery box. Say for instance, an interior MB or Polishing MB. I wonder if that would get more of the old crowd involved more. Just a thought.
  13. Honestly man I would. That is way better than traditional wash and wax details we used to do results wise. Trust me, I used to put Buttery Wax on all my clients cars and I did LPS a few times too. I was never really blown away by either of those products. They were decent, but they had draw backs in time and ease to apply vs longevity. H2O strikes a perfect balance there. If I am going to offer a better service for clients now, it is Ceramic Coating. Those obviously require more time and effort.
  14. Okay thanks for the info Travis. It sounds like timing and heat played a role. As for the wipe down, that should remove all wax and sealant and get your paint to bare assuming you have no ceramic coating. I am guessing you haven’t gone that far yet. So that should tell you if you have embedded defects or if the blemishes were indeed streaking of some kind from the product etc.
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