mc2hill

@mikemccraryI was in the exact same place (minus the coating) when I started 12 years ago. Did my whole truck and realized when I was done (many hours later), that maybe could look better! The answer is the 'test area' - a 2' x 2' area that is indicative of the overall paint defects (usually on the hood or trunk), marked with some tape. Work that area with compound or polish until it flashes, and compare that with the taped off area - is it the results you are looking for? If not, do another section pass on the area. If it is still not corrected to your expectations, then move up in aggressiveness - either a change in pad or product. After doing several corrections you will get an idea of a good place to start with a different car, but remember all paints are different, and ALWAYS err on the side of caution and use the least aggressive methods first. An extra pass or 2 to remove something is wayyy cheaper than a repaint!

Welcome Joe!

Welcome Donald! And post up some pics of that red truck (there are some folks on here that think that should be the only color available).

Sure you can. I have a pressure bottle of Rinseless Wash mixed at Waterless Wash strength (1 oz Rinseless to 16 oz distilled water), and a pressure bottle of Rinseless Wash mixed at wash strength (1 oz Rinseless to 2.5 gal of tap water) that I use for pretreating - the wash strength for knocking down dust or bird bombs, and the Waterless strength for bugs. Otherwise I load up the wash mitt and squeeze it over the panel before wiping.

Since my washes are now 95% Rinseless, it is towels for me. And when done they are only slightly damp - sometimes I do the Accord and the CRV with the same towel.

For a regular 2 bucket wash or anytime I am 'resetting' the wheels and tires I wash them first. If I am doing a Rinseless wash, I will use the leftover wash water with a Grit Guard Washboard and some older wheel brushes to clean the wheels, and sometimes a stiffer wheel brush to clean the tires.

Welcome to Adam's Forums! And we are a visual bunch, so please post some pics when the car arrives! And if possible, request the dealer not touch the car exterior. You are better off giving it's first cleaning, since you care more about how it looks.

Nice color! I have been researching at these lately - like the size and look.

Using Wheel & Tire cleaner should be fine, but if you washing them often, shampoo should be enough to get them clean. I keep some Car Wash Shampoo pre-mixed in a foaming sprayer and use that to clean my wheels. Or even try cleaning with Graphene Shampoo to add a little protection with each wash.

You can always 'reactivate' the soap. When I wash with soap (vs. Rinseless wash) I wash the entire vehicle using the 2 bucket method, then reload the mitt, and go over the about 1/2 the car with the soapy mitt, then reload it and do the remaining parts. Then do a pool (or flood) rinse that removes most of the water. Finally I spritz each section with DS and dry.

I was noticing scratches in the piano black interior finishes (from the other guys work, not mine) on the cars I was detailing for customers, so when we got a car with that finish I picked up some horsehair dust brushes. Now I vacuum those areas without worry.

First off, Welcome Michael! Not sure what is causing the rainbow on the headlights, but a mild polish should remove it. I have not used the Graphene Spray, but I know that coatings do not adhere well to headlights that have not had the factory clear removed.

HA! Winter washing for me means putting on a long sleeved shirt, and maybe socks!

Welcome to Adam's Forums! You plan looks good, but I agree with Dan, save Step 7 & 8 until the next wash. I love H20 G&G, and use it every few months as part of a rinseless wash.

You would need to machine polish out the scratch, and that should remove the coating in that area. Once it scratch is gone, prep the affected area and reapply the coating.

Larry at Ammo has some very good information on his site. The Adam's products are different from the Meguair's polishes, and should be easier to work with. The M#05 products are older 'technology', but many like them. The Adam's polishes should dust less, correct just as fast, and be easier for someone new machine polishing to use.

Welcome Sven!

@aurik I hadn't thought about it before, but Strip Wash should work fine as a clay lube. You mainly are looking for some lubrication. With our humidity I can't usually use the soap (it dries up to fast), so I use diluted Rinseless Wash as a clay lube.

Welcome Ron! Glad the folks got you sorted.

@UTVol I am going in a different direction. I would say correct the whole car, then once it is all done wash and clean with Surface Prep, and apply the coating all at one time. That way there is only one coating applicator to use and one towel that is used to wipe the coating. If you HAVE to apply protection, then what ever wax you have on hand or available locally with be fine until you have it all corrected. The Surface Prep should remove the temporary wax.

That should be 'do-able' - there is a company that make tools to make your own smaller pads (but they are very expensive). A marker and some good scissors should do the trick.

Nice work on an old sweetie Kurt! If it is the original paint, you may want to search 'mike phillips antique single stage paint'. He uses products and techniques that add some oils back into the paint. It is labor intensive, but the results are amazing.

Hey Nick, for the interior Adam's Interior Detailer always works for me. Even when doing client cars that have not been maintained it works great on leather and around the steering wheel & stalks. If the polishes you have are a few years old, you may want to look at something like the One Step Polish to remove the swirls.

This may require a few treatments of VRT to get look you want. Sometimes the plastic will dry out, and soak up VRT. You could also try Black Trim Restorer.

@TR6speed Hey Jack, not to be mean, but this is why I have stayed with Paint Sealant + H2O Guard & Gloss on my cars. PS goes on easy, and I can quickly add protection with G&G as part of a Rinseless wash. I think it has been over a year since I put the PS down on the Accord, but the G&G keeps it protected until I reapply the PS once our heat is gone. I did put a coating on my son's car when he was away at school, and I only saw the car a few times a year. A strip wash when he was home got it looking great again.