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shane@detailedreflections last won the day on February 10

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About shane@detailedreflections

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  1. You’re very welcome. We still learn as we go. I will use the seal act lightly, but my intent isn’t to bring it level entirely. Polishing will do that. You could do the same process with a color match paint chip bottle from the manufacturer as well. We’ve never had an issue with waxes/coatings over the top of repairs before. As for how long it takes to cure, if you go thin with the layers and use a heat gun, it’s pretty quick. What you don’t want to do is put a big blob of paint in where the exterior is hard and the inside is soft. It’ll rip right out with polishing. We get the kits from color chip so the client has something they can use on their own. But any color match paint will do with the paint writer.
  2. Sounds like a multi part metal flake. Some paints use a base color. Then clear coat. Then metal flake (or metallic). Then more clear coat. You might have found a layer of metal flake. We did a custom painted Indian motorcycles. Ask me how I found out about that??? Went through and created what looked like an oil spot in the paint. Ended up getting it resprayed by the artist on my dime. You live and learn.
  3. Sure. Waxes generally have fillers in them that will help. You can get color specific waxes to help even more. My guess is it’s got damage that needs a body shop to be repaired correctly. The best you can do is minimize it safely.
  4. Does it feel dull? My guess is you did strike through the clear. Wet sanding and multiple steps of compound and polish can take off clear coat in a hurry. We sometimes forget that no paint job is perfect. We can cause damage chasing perfect. Know when to say when even though it’s difficult sometimes.
  5. We have experience with the Dr. Color Chip system. Their paint match is spot on. We usually order a squirt and squeegee kit for clients, but we don’t apply it that way. We use this: Gold Label Detailing Fine Line Fluid Writer Paint Applicator Pen | Precision Touch Up Paint | Perfect for Rock Chips and Scratch Repair | .5mm Tip Brass Construction https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N95TXM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.7fvEbYQTZWCR A drop of paint and we literally fill the scratch in. Put a layer at a time. Let it cure. Another layer. And so on until it’s built up about higher than the surface of the paint. Let it cure until nice and hard and then polish it down. It’s not always perfect, but it’s an improvement and doesn’t make a mess. A heat gun helps those thin layers cure, but don’t burn the paint since they get hot. If you have questions, let me know.
  6. I’ll add to what @mc2hill said. The clear coat is thin. And while it’s “difficult” to do damage with a dual action machine, don’t think for a moment that it’s impossible to do. If you’re chasing bad damage, you can drive yourself crazy. Step back five feet and see if you can see it? If you can’t, call it good. If you can see it and others can’t, you’re probably good. Lighting makes a huge difference. We can find imperfections all day long in our lit bay with 110,000 Lumens of light all over. Roll it out in the sunlight, and you can’t see most of what we can. Clients see even less. Keep in mind too, that the more you work the paint now...the less you have to work with in the future. Also once you take off about 1/3 of the clear coat, you impede UV protection which can accelerate clear coat failure. There’s a reason they make paint thickness gauges. And they’re precisely for situations like this when you’re not sure how far you can take it. It’s a tool most people don’t have in their box (a good one runs about $650-700). If you call around, you may find a shop willing to measure it for you (assuming they even have one) and send you on your way. If you find someone to do this, be kind and offer a few dollars for their time and tool. They most likely wouldn’t take it (I know I wouldn’t), but the gesture goes a long way to the next time you need help.
  7. Thanks guys. Brought back an old post! So much I could add after another year or two of growth too! I’m constantly learning so much.
  8. I have. The liquid wraps tend not to come off as well when you’re done with it and plasti dip historically has been a nightmare for us to work with when people have wheels done and all that. The plus side is they’re considerably cheaper than the vinyl.
  9. @Dan@Adams Will the Adams Pro coating ever be offered to detailers already trained/certified/accredited by other manufacturers without paying for the training and attending? I ask because I’d open the option of us installing for members in the area and we have a wholesale account with you guys already. I just don’t think I can bring it in with paying for more training that’s essentially redundant to what we’ve already done. I’ve posted a lot of our work for a quality check if it helps. Just curious. I’d open a special deal up to forum members if it could happen and they wanted the Adam’s Coating.
  10. I do like that look. After seeing this video, this might be the leader for me now. You can skip the first minute. The question is...satin so it’s got some gloss? Or matte? I definitely wouldn’t do that in a gloss finish. And I’m still thinking the black roof, posts and mirrors with wheels. Then just need a caliper color to set it all off. The calipers will be a color with the lettering on them a different color.
  11. Not cheap is right. Honestly for this whole project the budget will likely be $4000-5000. That’s wrap, powder coat the wheels (with dismount and mount tires), calipers painted and all new badges/emblems and a ceramic coating. The coating cost is small for us because of the business. But it still adds up fast. The car isn’t going anywhere though and it is total protection.
  12. The wrap is beneficial because we don’t have time to keep up with making it look it’s best most of the driving season. Matte doesn’t show dirty as much and if something brushes I don’t stress with a polisher fixing it. I’ll make sure I document the coating. The wrap is being done by ACI Dynamix. They specialize in wraps and do a lot of exotic work. So I’d trust them to do it right. And I’ve had a working relationship with them for a bit, so I trust them to take the car apart as needed and assemble it. They’re worth a follow on social media if you enjoy cars. The benefit in keeping with orange was not having to pay extra to wrap the jams and sills to make it look correct when the doors are open. But that cost is not a dealbreaker for me. You picked my top two choices actually. With the first being aquamarine I think. I want it to be different and it’s time for a change. The wheels going black is mostly selfish...I hate cleaning silver wheels (even coated) and the brakes on that thing bleed brake dust like crazy even just street driving. Black will hide some of that between washes.
  13. Reaching out for opinions and thoughts...because sometimes other ideas come from nowhere and I like different visions people have. I’m considering wrapping my Lotus Evora. It’s orange with silver wheels as pictured here. My initial thought was to wrap it matte orange with a gloss black roof, a posts and mirror caps. I think I’m stuck on the black bits. Maybe even the door handles as well. The wheels and badging are all going black for sure. The caliper color is to be determined. Then the Mrs. asked why not change it all? Despite the extra cost of wrapping door jams and sills... Enter the idea of a color flip wrap. Matte Aquamarine Matte Turquoise Lavendar Matte Ultramarine Violet Matte Avocado There’s so many options. I can pick from 3M, Avery Dennison and Oracal films. Like I said, definitely black wheels and emblems. I’m stuck on a gloss black roof, mirror caps and a-posts...maybe handles. That could be gloss carbon too as an option. Caliper color is open. And body color is open. The car will be coated in a vinyl specific ceramic when it’s done to lock everything in. Share some thoughts and ideas. I need help!
  14. Out of curiosity, take some fine metal polish to the wheels. See if it comes to grey instantly. If it doesn’t, they’re clear coated. Most (not all) aluminum wheels are clear coated due to maintenance issues. That being said, you can polish, seal and ceramic if you’d like. But no matter what raw aluminum wheels will need regular maintenance or they will look horrible and possibly be ruined.
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