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shane@detailedreflections last won the day on July 8

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About shane@detailedreflections

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  1. Steamers are easy to use. We use a Vapor Chief 125. The machine we use is a little under $2,000. It allows us to mix chemicals in the line and to refill it while it’s hot. A great steamer that’s more economical for most doing their own work is a McColluch MC1385 Deluxe. It can be had for just under $200. It doesn’t have as large of a tank or the pressure and can’t be refilled while hot, but for most people those are non issues. The pressure of ours is great, but the heat and steam is where it’s at. https://chiefsteamer.com/product/chief-steamer-car-wash-industrial-steam-cleaner-125-psi/
  2. How aggressive to be is difficult to say without seeing the damage. I don’t know if it’s through the clear or not. You can go back over it, you just have to repeat the steps. So if you go back to correcting compound, polish over it. As for pads, we tend to go through a bunch for each vehicle. We change them out when they get loaded up and lose effectiveness. Pads can be cleaned and reused without issue. Just let them dry first. With pads and towels I always recommend you buy way more than you think you will need. Because you will need them.
  3. Nice work. I couldn’t imagine doing that job by hand or without a steamer. Good job.
  4. So there's a few things that come to mind with that. It's hard to tell if that's truly haze or if it's damage that still needed to be worked. The first question that comes to mind is if the paint is original? If it is, it's quite possible that with that much time on it, the paint itself is damaged. Is the paint single stage? Older cars often used a single stage paint versus the more modern "base coat, clear coat" currently in use. You can still polish single stage, but you're actually removing paint versus simply clear coat. How much clear coat are you working with? Hopefully you have decent clear coat on the car. Without a gauge it's difficult to tell, but that's the best way to ensure you don't go after it too hard. You said you did three steps of polish on it, but what does that truly mean? Did you blast over the area once with a polisher for each step? Did you work it in different directions? Did you change pads often to ensure you're still getting a decent cut with the polishing? There's a ton of variables. Have you tried using anything to see if it's simply stubborn polish residue? It could be that simple, although from the image it does look like damage. And the last question, which is the biggest. Did you do a test spot on the most heavily damaged part of the vehicle to determine what process/materials you truly needed? The reason we do this is so we don't potentially do what you did here where you went through multiple steps to find out that maybe you needed a bit more. Set realistic expectations for yourself given your experience and the age of the vehicle. This will help make sure you're not setting yourself up for disappointment. It sounds like I'd try working that area with a fresh pad and some compound before polishing it back to life. It may take a few passes. Diminishing abrasive polishes lose their effectiveness the longer they're worked, this could have been at the end of a polish. Good luck.
  5. These trim pieces are textured plastic and can't be polished out like a gloss plastic or paint can. You can clean them, but repairing them or making them better is of limited benefit. Scuffs are caused by abrasion. Once the plastic scuffs, it becomes visible. It's a fact of life. The way to prevent this is to educate your clients about picking their feet up when they get in the vehicle. The reality is that most clients don't care about that (or some have mobility issues which can't be corrected). They care about clean. Manage your clients expectations, clean the surface and move on. It would be great to correct everyone's damages, but it's not realistic. This applies to you as a service provider, and them as a client for what they're going to get. All that being said, we clean the textured plastic with a variety of boars hair brushes, towels, steam and APC or Interior Detailer.
  6. Alcantara simply needs to be kept clean in order to remain functional. Once it mats up, it’s a headache. Use soft brushes on it and gentle cleaners. As for moisture it’s not the end of the world, but for added protection you could use a fabric protection product available from a variety of manufacturers. We highly recommend them for carpet, upholstery and leathers.
  7. You’re welcome. It does help with sap. Steam and a plastic razor blade and it makes quick work of it. Pollen is super easy to mobilize. My video skills left a lot to be desired, but it was a last second idea to do a video and post. It’s been a while...
  8. Every wonder how we do door jams and tight spaces quickly? The answer is a steamer and a tornador tool. Our steamer is a Vapor Chief 135 that allows us to mix chemical in the same line. With the steam it really heats the product which makes it super effective. We tend to run diluted APC through ours, but in the winter we can run rinseless through it to do an entire car. It just takes a little time. A good entry level steamer is the McColluch MC1385. It doesn’t allow continuous fill while hot, doesn’t mix chemical in the line and is lower pressure but will make a difference in how you work. In these two videos (sorry for my poor video skill, it’s not easy to work and video), you can see how the steamer does a ton of work. Once the steamer does it’s things, you can wipe them clean with ease. 02D7E6A4-115F-4F01-8B23-C1EBAAEA83B4.MOV FBAD197A-8EB9-4D34-BD9B-890C4D9B4D6F.MOV Typically before we wipe though, we use the Tornador tool. This tool runs off of the air compressor (and is air hungry with heavy use) but uses compressed air and chemical to mobilize contamination. We also run this with diluted APC frequently. When you combine these tolls, tight spaces don’t stand a chance! Door jams are cleaned with easy as well as seams. 50D36D9E-1B62-4A9E-B445-24EB58E4F68B.MOV 61825BE1-A628-4144-BE1A-0D4767D686CC.MOV
  9. @Kyle@Adams the new site looks great. I’m happy to see the Pro Line is finally a real thing after years of waiting. Seeing the availability of the line, maybe with time we can switch back to some more Adam’s products as we had drifted away due to the abrupt termination of the affiliate program without warning or notice. Are five gallon products still a thing? Maybe I missed them.
  10. Sounds like high spots. So yes, polish and reapply unfortunately.
  11. You can use their carpet and upholstery cleaner. Spray it on, agitate it with a brush. Then extract using the extractor with plain water. No solutions clogging nozzles or lines. No worry about what’s in the tank. If you want something extractor specific, you’ll probably look outside of Adams (which looking at other offerings isn’t a betrayal or anything). We don’t think it’s needed and we’ve done some horrific interiors.
  12. A coating is a different product than a spray and are formulated as such for their storage environments. A bottle of ceramic has to be kept tight to help prevent it from curing. The sprays are formulated to be tolerant of their environment. But for ease of application. It’s all about maintaining balance. A silica based top coat won’t harden with the top off. A coating will. They’re different formulas.
  13. Congrats on the new ride. Everyone has you covered. If you do get any clogging a toothpick will clear them up. We use detailing type swabs available elsewhere. They’re inexpensive and have a little soft spot on the end of them!
  14. One thing that seems to get forgotten is you can develop a haze when you really start to layer products. This is even more true when laying products with different bases (sealant is not silica based like “ceramic” products are). Many enthusiasts like to touch their cars and apply product to “make it shine.” The truth is that sometimes less really is more. Before adding more product, what protection is left? What layers are still there? Wax will disappear before a sealant as an example. Frequent use of some products allows them to build up and become more difficult to work with. It’s often brought up about streaking when using too much of a product in application. Frequent application creates the same effect. My daily driver and the wife’s daily drivers are both ceramic coated (with another product, not Adam’s for full disclosure) and admittedly don’t get washed as often as they should or could. I’ve applied a spray top coat to our vehicles once or twice since application and that’s in New England winter. They were coated in August and September of last year. A wash, clay and reapplication and they looked like we had just done them. The garage queen gets washed more often, but boosted less since it’s not driven often. It gets a top coat once a year. With waxes/sealants you need to do more frequent applications, but this should be measured in months. Not days. Don’t over complicate or overthink your processes. Make it easy on yourself and pick a set of products that work for you and stick with them. If you’re “ceramic based,” stick with them. If your traditional, stick with them. Don’t cross them over looking for a magic formula of shine. The real truth is that the gloss comes from how you finish your paint before ever applying protection. The other layers merely lock it in to with varying degree. Pick the products that fit with your style of maintaining your finish. If you’re hands on, go with products that will allow you to satisfy yourself. If you’re the “I just want to drive it” type, go with products that lend themselves to that goal. In the end you can spend a lot of money on products you don’t need or don’t fit your style and then drive yourself crazy trying to make them work for you. It’s needless stress.
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