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shane@detailedreflections

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shane@detailedreflections last won the day on January 16

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About shane@detailedreflections

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    Master AF Detailer

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    http://www.detailedreflectionsct.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Connecticut

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  • Location
    Connecticut
  • Occupation
    Firefighter/Paramedic
  • Vehicle Year
    2011
  • Vehicle Make
    Lotus
  • Vehicle Model
    Evora
  • Real Name
    Shane

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402 profile views
  1. How to take care of a Ceramic Coated car

    If the dealer installed the coating, it's probably not one of the high end coatings that are available. Simoniz is commonly in dealerships here, which isn't known as a strong product in the detailing world. Couple that with "dealer installed," and the results could be anything. There's so many variables in that scenario, who knows what was left for coating to begin with? My guess is the coating itself may be having issues. And yes, I personally would have used the Ceramic Boost as it's designed for use on a Ceramic coating where GG is designed for use on paint surfaces. The two products have similar effect, but different makeup. I'd always do a little test spot, but that's just out of an abundance of caution and done with nearly any product on an unknown surface.
  2. How to take care of a Ceramic Coated car

    Of course the water would bead up after appyling GG. It's hydrophobic in nature. Do you know what brand of coating it was? Some coatings get their durability from the base layer, and their hydophobic properties from a top layer? Gtechniq does this when layering their different products at the time of application. Same with CQuartz when you top the coating with Reload. Also keep in mind that the coatings shed water, so you may not see beading like with a wax or a sealant. Your milage may vary, but I'm not in favor of applying a sealant over a coating unless it's designed to work with the ceramics. It seems counter productive and not necessary. Do you know what brand of coating you were working with? That may help to provide some insight.
  3. How to take care of a Ceramic Coated car

    Guard and gloss is a sealant designed to bond to the paint. You didn't harm anything by using the GG on it, but what was the benefit? The point of coating a car is to provide a long lasting finish. Some coatings have a spray top layer (CarPro, Adam's, etc). Usually wash, decon, clay and apply top agent. When we go back to applying other products, you can change how the coating reacts to water and you negate some of the benefits. Most coatings that seem to not be as hydrophobic as when applied are due to not being decontaminated. Once that's done, the coating will function as when it was installed provided it hasn't worn off (longevity varies with coatings).
  4. Pro-Line

    I called and talked to Ashley at the time. She's since moved on and Ben took over...who's also now moved on. We talked about my needs, volume, etc and I was able to get setup. It's been great. I like the idea of a wholesale website a lot. I'd also like to see some "pro only" products pushed out. I'm sure that won't be an entirely popular opinion, but it would help drive potential clients to some of the accounts for service. We don't do a lot in the way of resale. Usually just small maintenance supplies and such here and there. We use our wholesale account mainly as shop supplies for our work. That does bring up the question of if people would buy locally if they had the option? It's difficult since sometimes with the sales Adam's does, you'd have to match them which means little to no profit on many items despite needing to keep some in stock. The struggles of small business ownership...but that's a whole separate discussion I guess. Either way, I'm looking forward to the new Pro-line launch. Maybe I'll shoot a follow up email today.
  5. How to take care of a Ceramic Coated car

    Sounds to me like Ceramic Pro as their one of the most widely used coatings that push a huge warranty. Wash it with soap, top with ceramic boost every now and then. Once or twice a year, do an iron decon of the paint and a light clay (light with fine clay is important). Live happy.
  6. Paint Correction Steps/Swirl Killer

    That’a correct for the marking. You’ll want to see it moving and not in the same spot. If it’s in the same spot, the pad has stalled and you’re using too much pressure. As for the speeds, I’ll let someone with a SK address that. We use Rupes machines which are quite similar, but don’t want to assume exact. For polishing we run 4-5 for speeds and for protection we use a much slower 1-2. These numbers may not apply to your machine. Speed is another variable with polishing. Faster is not always better. More speed equals more heat. It can also work the polish too quickly. Sometimes less is more.
  7. Paint Correction Steps/Swirl Killer

    Chris raises a good point about pad rotation, and it’s often overlooked. We actually mark the backing plates themselves as opposed to the pads on our equipment. Either way works. But backing plates last way longer than pads and there’s fewer of them to mark. We probably have 40-50 pads that would need to be marked versus four backing plates. Good tip and thanks for following up!
  8. How to take care of a Ceramic Coated car

    I think it still begs the question to be asked of if ceramics are "lower" maintenance, what is the benefit of being resealed with G&G or similar products? I coated my daily driver for ease of maintenance. It no longer requires the all day detail to make it look acceptable to me as a daily. Wash, dry. Enjoy. I coated my garage queen simply for the enhanced gloss. It's driven approximately 5000 miles per year, so wear isn't a concern. I guess I just don't see the need to negate the benefits of a coating by constantly applying product to it since its lifespan is significantly longer than traditional waxes/sealants. Not trying to be argumentative as much as I'm trying to encourage some discussion. We can all learn more and improve our craft.
  9. How to take care of a Ceramic Coated car

    The answers are both universal, and product dependent. So it may take some questions to get the information you’re looking for. What type of coating are you using? Adam’s Polishes uses a ceramic boost product to maintain their coatings. Others use different/similar sprays. Some don’t require a top spray. So the end step product is brand dependent. For a ceramic product to function correctly, it needs to be kept clean. The number one cause of people thinking their coating isn’t right, is it needs decontamination. Once or twice a year we recommend doing an iron decontamination of your vehicle. We will also do a very light clay with a soft clay bar. Do not go aggressively as you will risk marring. We do not recommend using detail spray or guard and gloss. They won’t damage your coating, but they will change how the coating works and how hydrophobic it is. For a quick detail spray type product, use waterless wash or you can use matte detail spray. Waterless being the more ideal product. Hope this helps.
  10. Paint Correction Steps/Swirl Killer

    Hi Kevin. You ask some questions that take some time to answer since there’s no real cut and dry answer. Let’s take them in order... Do you need every step? That really depends upon in the condition of the paint you’re starting with. You always want to start with the least aggressive method to accomplish the result you’re after. Usually start with a test spot to see how aggressive you need to do. Keep in mind that you’re removing clear coat with polishing. The idea is to retain as much clear coat as you can while accomplishing the finish you’re after. In theory, you can skip intermediate steps. We aren’t an advocate of doing so though even though when it’s fresh it can look perfect. The purpose of those intermediate steps is to really reduce the lasting effects of each step. If we compound a vehicle, we always correct before finishing polish. The finishing polish is really the step you may get away with skipping. The finishing polish though really brings out the gloss of the finish. When you ask how many passes you should make, again it’s variable. It depends on the condition of the paint as well as the result you’re looking for. Your arm speed, pressure, pad and polish/compound will all determine the number of passes needed. As for pressure on the polisher, you use a light pressure with Adam’s polishes. There isn’t a universal answer for pressure. We use with compound that starts with a light pressure and finishes with increased pressure. So the answer to that is variable as well. Hope these answers help!
  11. Hey Guys!

    Welcome. Beautiful ride. I’m sure it turns a ton of heads. I actually have a client with 65 and 67 Mustangs he wants us to ceramic coat in the spring, along with his 52 Ford truck he just restored. Can’t wait to get up close and personal with those rides for him. That said, I’m thoroughly jealous of your car!
  12. Rupes 15mm MKll FS

    Great deal on a great machine for someone! We use ours more than any other polisher in the shop. Curious though, what are you wanting to try? We recently added a 21 to the shop, and then they came out with the Mille.
  13. Pro-Line

    I don’t believe I received one unless it somehow ended up in the junk folder. Surprising since I have a wholesale account with them too. Hopefully information comes soon.
  14. Pro-Line

    Anyone have any insight as to when the info regarding the Pro-Line is coming out? Still curious if there are any products that will differ from the regular line or if it’s strictly product sizes?
  15. New to the Forum from CT

    Might be worth the trip down. It’s about 40 minutes from me. Any idea if they’ll have more Pro-Line info by then?
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