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shane@detailedreflections

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shane@detailedreflections last won the day on February 25

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About shane@detailedreflections

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    Master AF Detailer

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    http://www.detailedreflectionsct.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Connecticut

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  • Location
    Connecticut
  • Occupation
    Firefighter/Paramedic
  • Vehicle Year
    2011
  • Vehicle Make
    Lotus
  • Vehicle Model
    Evora
  • Real Name
    Shane

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  1. Voids are spots where the paint is missing like chips, failure or deep scratches. Polishing is a clear coat process. Once the clear coat is gone, polishing can’t happen.
  2. Your process is good. The use of finishing polish is up to you and if you’re satisfied with the results of the single step. Is it clear? No haze? Glossy enough? If so, seal it and wax it. If not, refine the finish with the use of finishing polish before sealing and waxing. Black cars are almost always get the finishing polish step though. Cutting corners on black usually shows down the line.
  3. There’s a few years. Some people say vinegar diluted will do it. We use a combination of steam and hot water extraction with a good carpet cleaner and agitation.
  4. The maximum time for us depends on what we are trying to accomplish. If you want a truly flawless finish, it takes as many hours as needed. A typical one step polish and interior detail takes about 4-5 hours with two of us. That’s wheels, wash, iron, clay, polish/seal, interior, glass, trim... Some interiors only take an hour, some take five or six or longer depending on how bad it is. Ceramic coating a vehicle takes us at least the better part of a day. Sometimes two or three.
  5. Thanks @falcaineer. We use suedes from another vendor and we do toss them after a ceramic install. For us it’s a “cost of doing business.” I admittedly haven’t checked the price of Adams suedes, but the ones we use are affordable. We use suede, low microfiber and another low microfiber in our ceramic installs. So three towel system. Each extending out further than the last.
  6. You ask good questions. Durability is difficult to say because there are so many factors. I think your plan of maintaining with ceramic spray coating is a good one. Adam’s claims roughly two years I believe. Some people get more, some less. It is a consumer grade product. You’re trading ease of installation and it being forgiving for less durability. If you’re looking long term, and don’t want to reapply it might be worth having a warrantied coating installed. I’m not familiar with the ones you mentioned so I can’t attest to their durability. Working with pro grade coatings though I can say there is a definite difference between pro and consumer. Most people who think they have a failed coating simply have a dirty coating. They need maintenance. They need to be decontaminated and cleaned. And some need top agents reapplied occasionally. The coating tends to be fine. Just dirty.
  7. It sounds like you already asked for a refund, which is good I think since it truly sounds like the product isn’t what you expected it to be. The other coating you mentioned is a good one. When shopping prices, break it down to price per milliliter as the bottle sizes may vary. It’s the only true comparison of cost. I think part of the issues that arise are misconceptions. It’s “ceramic so it has to be good” type of scenario. Ceramics are very good. However they aren’t perfect. In creating the spray coating, it’s a much thinner application and I would guess a lighter concentration than the true coating. So knowing that, I would automatically adjust my durability assumptions downward. You compared it to the Meguiars Hybrid Spray Wax. Ceramic spray coating would function as little more than a spray wax. It’s easy to put down an uneven application of it due to spraying it (try spraying something even and ensuring complete coverage without soaking everything around it). Part of the full ceramic process is slow methodical application. That’s a large part of the success. I’m also going to add that there are significant differences between consumer grade coatings (those being discussed here) and professional grade coatings. The application is similar but the chemistry is not, and with that they are less forgiving. If you want that easy maintenance, apply a true ceramic coating (or have one done) and then it’ll be simple enough to maintain giving you exactly what you want. In my opinion (and I realize it’s not marketed this way) the ceramic spray is a better maintenance product than a primary product. Just my two cents on that. Not every product is going to meet everyone’s expectations. I can tell you we have tried a lot of products and been unimpressed. It’s part of learning. We learn what to do and what not to do...or use in this case. At least you know this one isn’t for you!
  8. I’m with the others. You’re comparing apples to oranges and expecting the same thing. Ceramic spray is an easy application that leaves a thin coating. It is great for maintenance of coatings in my opinion. It is not a replacement for a true ceramic. The prep is the same to achieve a good finish. The quality of the finish is a result of good surface prep and polishing. Not the product itself. The product is the lock on the finish. When you say the ceramic spray is put to the test, what are the parameters and measurement of success/failure? I ask because I haven’t seen the videos, so it’s difficult to quantify their results. I’m going to ask a different question...what are your goals for a product/finish? That becomes easier to see what fits for you once that’s defined.
  9. Is your chrome clear coated? If it is, it will polish with regular paint polishes. If it’s bare chrome, the metal polish will do the trick. If you’re not sure, take some metal polish on a rag and try it. If it comes up black or dark grey it’s bare metal and you’re good to go. If it doesn’t, use regular polish.
  10. A coating generally doesn’t change the shade of the color unless it’s a matte finish. Matte finishes tend to darken a bit and become slightly more glossy. Gloss paint just tends to stay glossy.
  11. If you’re going to layer it, why not just install the full coating and use spray for maintenance? To be done correctly, the prep is the same.
  12. Agreed. Every client gets fresh product. It’s what they are paying us for to start with. And I don’t want to cross contaminate anything. It’s piece of mind that every client got what they should have...first appointment or last appointment. The same applies to towels and pads as well. Fresh, clean for every vehicle.
  13. Food for thought about your practice. You’re blowing drying air through the same hose used to vacuum that traps dirt. You’re pulling fine grains of vacuum debris back out of the hose and sending them at your finish at a high velocity. I’m not a fan of using vac/blowers to dry cars for that reason, even with purpose assigned hoses. Things will slip passed. I’d hate to see someone inflict damage on a finish they created before even enjoying it.
  14. Let’s follow up with a whole bunch more information about what paint correction is, and when it should (and shouldn’t be applied). Paint correction is not a magic bullet. It’s not something that can be done unlimited times. Paint correction works by removing clear coat in order to remove defects in your paint. Most of the UV protection of your paint comes in the first 1/3 of the clearcoat. Knowing that, we don’t want to remove more than that over the LIFETIME of the vehicle. Once you reduce the UV protection you accelerate clearcoat failure requiring a repaint. Paint correction also serves to level the clearcoat on a vehicle increasing the glossy look of the finish. This is why even brand new vehicles benefit from polishing. Modern paint systems are a three part system. They consist of a primer, base coat (color) and clear coat. Older paints may be single stage in nature mixing the clear and paint layers. On top of your paint sits a variety of contamination and defects typically. Contamination on the paint is generally tackled with washing, iron remover and clay. When we talk about defects, there’s spider webs which are microscratches, deep scratches which may or not be able to be taken care of without repainting and other forms of defects as illustrated below. When paint correcting we are only working with the clear coat. So as you can see, the deep scratches can’t be fixed. And some that are just in the clear coat shouldn’t be fixed for fear of striking through or removing too much clear accelerating failure. So you get a car, and you paint correct it. You’ve removed a little clear coat. You use good technique in washing and over time you develop damage (it happens no matter what we do). You polish again. But because you’ve used good technique along the way, you only need a finish polish to take a little clear coat off. Using this methodology you can get a long time with out of your paint and great looks. The other scenario is you perform a paint correction and you take it through the automatic car wash. You damage your finish over time. You then need a full correction to repair the damage which takes off more of the clear coat. When approached this way, you’re going to burn through more clear coat or get less corrections. So the ultimate answer to your question is to correct as infrequently as possible to preserve the clear coat. We use a paint thickness gauge to know what we are doing to a clients paint (or what they’ve done to it already). We are not opposed to using a fine polish a couple times a year. It leaves a satisfactory finish for most clients without significantly shortening the life of the paint. We will sometimes use a compound in isolated spots to handle concentrated damage as opposed to going all in everywhere. Hope this is helpful.
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