Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400

shane@detailedreflections

Members
  • Content Count

    1,523
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    72

shane@detailedreflections last won the day on March 30

shane@detailedreflections had the most liked content!

About shane@detailedreflections

  • Rank
    Master AF Detailer

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.detailedreflectionsct.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Connecticut

Converted

  • Location
    Connecticut
  • Occupation
    Firefighter/Paramedic
  • Vehicle Year
    2011
  • Vehicle Make
    Lotus
  • Vehicle Model
    Evora
  • Real Name
    Shane

Recent Profile Visitors

2,372 profile views
  1. Hey guys! So it seems like the timing of this one isn’t working for people as there’s been no solid RSVP’s yet and work conflicts. We will reschedule this clinic later in the season if there’s interest! Sorry!
  2. Try C2v3 which as your detailer/top agent. It plays very well with their coatings and should give you what you’re looking for.
  3. It sounds like your truck needs a good clay bar decontamination. Anything sitting on a vehicle for a long time allows time for bonding. Coatings aren’t impossible to have things stick to them, they just make it harder. I’m guessing a little clay on it and it comes right back to life. Coatings aren’t maintenance free and this seems like a short time span for contamination, but sitting in an uncontrolled environment can certainly cause issues. Try clay and see what happens. Maybe I’ll write up a thing on reasonable expectations of last step products one of these days and how to best maintain them.
  4. Thanks @8675309'SS We are actually an accredited GTechniq detailer, so we are very familiar with your coating. It’s a fantastic product. It’s actually the coating I have installed on our personal vehicles. You can use the products you listed on your coating, but I question the need in doing so. I would use the ceramic wash and the ceramic waterless as my two products if I had to pick. They are utilized in cleaning the surface which is critical to any ceramic coating. Your coating is applied in three layers. One base layer, and two top layers. This allows that top coat to be pulled off if it’s damaged/worn/etc and then reapplied. Ceramic coatings still require decontamination yearly (or more or less depending on usage and environment). One of the big benefits to ceramics is the need for less maintenance. In using a host of products and layering, you’re diminishing the benefit of the coating you paid good money to have installed. Should you have further questions, don’t be afraid to ask. GTechniq does offer some maintenance products but I won’t discuss them in the open forum out of respect for Adam’s who hosts this site for us all to share information on.
  5. Ceramic Boost is easy to over apply. A little bit goes a long way. Generous application leads to streaking. Keep buffing with a soft microfiber to level the boost and pick up any excess. Literally you need a spray or two per panel (especially once the first panel or two is done and the towel is primed).
  6. If you have the finishing polish already, skip the glaze. Polish it down with finishing polish, reapply coating, buff it off and move on. I’m skeptical about the claim of glaze on cured coating personally. If it will remove high spots once fully cured, what stops it from removing the coating completely? I get the concept of uncured or partially cured, but not a fully cured coating. That’s typically abrasion only. You can wax over a glaze. Glaze is a very short lifespan product. And while you can wax over a ceramic coating, I’d ask why? Is it just that you want an additional layer of protection? If so, have at it. In my opinion it’s not required and somewhat defeats the purpose of a coating which is commonly reduced maintenance (not maintenance free). So in short, some finishing polish on a microfiber or machine with a finishing pad, polish it down quick (literally won’t take long), reapply coating and level it. Live happy. That’s the quickest and easiest solution instead of trying things. This will work the first time.
  7. Smear marks sound like high spots in the coating application. Try some brilliant glaze on it if it’s newly applied to see if that works, otherwise use some finishing polish to knock it down and reapply the coating.
  8. You can polish them. They’re smooth and painted. It shouldn’t take much to correct them.
  9. We do have some familiarity with interior coatings if you have questions. Don’t hesitate to ask!
  10. If your belief was five years without touching it and that’s what you were lead to believe, it’s a flaw with your detailer. We make it very clear that they are not maintenance free. You can do the maintenance yourself, it’s not that difficult to do. It just needs to be done. Coating maintenance has more time between services. That’s the benefit. Well, one of. Besides the harder top costs and such. The list goes on. I feel a properly installed coating is worth the investment, but it has to be an informed decision.
  11. No more than a standard detail package. We don’t charge them an upcharge to reinstall the top layer of a product they already paid for. I can’t in good faith ask a client for a large sum of money to install the product initially and say you have to bring it back to me yearly so I can charge you all over again. At that point it seems like a money grab. The process of washing, iron and clay happens anyway when we get a car. 99% of our jobs involve at least a light finish polish. At that point it’s not significantly longer for us to reapply a top coat. The top coat we work with is forgiving and we are experienced in its application so two of us can get it done without significantly increasing the time of the appointment for a client. Most top layers we reinstall are done with remnants from initial application. With this process you can see our increased cost of maintenance is minimal, as such I don’t feel comfortable inflating the cost to a client. It’s not how we do business. We are making money on the service regardless. The least we can do is to do it right. That being said if someone comes in with a trashed finish on a coated vehicle, the costs get passed on. In exchange for our policy we expect at least a minimum level of care for your vehicle when it’s not with us. Hopefully that clears up any confusion.
  12. What is it exactly you’re trying to accomplish? Then we can make recommendations.
  13. We typically do both as maintenance. The iron remover makes the clay process easier. It’s not necessarily required as much as it is convenient. Coatings get their hydrophobic properties from water contact angles. So the smaller the surface of water, the less friction it has to hang on. So coatings by nature are slick. Now put bonded contamination on the paint and it gets a bit rough and interferes with that contact angle increasing the surface area. All of a sudden, the water can cling to the surface. The same holds true of surface damage such as scratches or etching. Again, coatings are harder to damage but not impossible. The imperfections allow more for water to cling to. As an example, think of a freshly waxed floor. Pretty slick. Easy to fall on. Now scuff it up a bit with some contamination or some grippy texture tape and all of a sudden it’s not so slippery. Remove the tape, and the slippery condition is restored. Coated vehicles contaminate slower than non coated, but they do contaminate and will require maintenance. This is true regardless of whatever hype is out there (and some companies make some crazy claims). Hope this clears it up a bit.
  14. Just wanted to clear up a few misconceptions about coatings given your experience. Coatings get contaminated less quickly than non coated vehicles due to their hydrophobic, “self cleaning” properties. This doesn’t translate to not needing to be decontaminated. We recommend clients with coated vehicles to come back yearly so we can properly clay and decontaminate as needed. In that process if a light polish needs to be done we will, or even to reapply the top coat. Many professional grade coatings are applied in layers so that the top layer can be damaged/removed/replaced as needed. We don’t charge extra for that once a client has a coating done. We simply do what needs to be done for our clients. Most professional base layers are difficult to remove...think wetsanding. Polishing lightly is adequate, especially if you’re reapplying a top layer. If your vehicle went two years without the proper maintenance, I’m not surprised it doesn’t act like when it was new. My feeling is some decontamination and a light polish and that action comes back. The number one cause of people people who have coated vehicles and think the product has failed is that the surface needs to be decontaminated. Once you get contamination on the surface, it won’t act like when it was freshly installed as it’s not the same surface it was. A decontamination and a little top layer maintenance and you’re good to go! Despite marketing hype, coatings can be damaged and they do require maintenance. It’s just a different maintenance schedule than a non coated vehicle.
  15. Mostly this. You can layer your way to a haze with most products. Once sealant is down, I’d top it with a thin layer or two of wax. Think of the wax as a sacrificial layer that will be added/maintained between details. The sealant is the protection layer between paint and elements and you want to preserve as much as possible. Glaze is a great product, but has a lifespan measured in days. Guard and gloss can be used as a primary sealant, but we much prefer a traditional sealant for that initial layer. We do use guard and gloss on wheels. It’s easy to overthink the layers. People get confused because this product or that product are out and they have to use them. Not every product from a product line fits in your work flow. I can’t think of a single product line we have every one that they offer. Some just don’t fit or don’t make sense.
×
×
  • Create New...