Ricky Bobby

Sigh.

Its fine but its not as strong as what I referenced, doesn't get as much of the gunk and grime out, and uses more product that is already expensive at $30 a gallon - With the diluted 3:1 MFR mix I can literally get all the black tire ooze out of my VRT applicators and besides being discolored they are like new - The ultimate test I did recently was that my toothbrush I use to clean the slides and barrels of my firearms was black from carbon and normal APC didn't really do that much, bristles were still black - a couple squirts of that 3:1 MFR mixture and it was white bristles again - Try it on your fender brush, with the white bristles you'll be amazed at what comes off that brush that the APC wouldn't get -

The current ones are better than the outgoing thats for sure - the ones with the neoprene cushion layer were horrible IMO

No - the "wax" name is more name recognition marketing because its an easy name to attach to protection - the protection in "Wash and Wax" is silica based I believe per the video so it should work well as a maintenance wash for vehicles protected with the coating + boost or just the boost product -

^Only brush I use - the shorter bristles are key

This - there is only so much the paint can absorb at a time with these - on the 8 oz bottle of Adam's ceramic boost 1-2 sprays should be enough to do an entire panel, door, etc - any more of it is wasting products, etc - Great products ( I haven't used Adams Boost but I do own Reload) but you have to do less is more approach -

Heres my .02 on rock chips - Unless you never drive your car you are going to get rock chips on the front end - and a clear bra doesn't last forever. I call them "mileage chips" because as you put the miles on you are bound to get some - having excellently polished paint and defect free is more important to me than worrying about a couple rock chips on the front end, every time I go to wash the car there is a new mark on the bumper, front edge of hood, etc

Dont forget the "Legacy" or 15ES/21ES tools are now drastically reduced in price putting them in line with the 12E Duetto (which is also a great tool) but if you are using 5.5"/6" pads you may want to consider the original 15ES as its a fantastic machine and now $80 less than it used to be (the Mark II models basically took the old price point)

Thinner paint on plastic etc - you said you had a Mini, you probably didn't need the 12mm orbit - what pad and polish were you using, I would have done least aggressive first method, with white foam and white polish and checked work to see how it did - If the white foam and white polish took it past the clear I'd be shocked

I do not agree with this statement but I do appreciate your review Scott and your opinion as a professional detailer -

Having a Mini, 15 or 21, and a Nano is the absolute best overall combo - I should be adding a Mini soon, and then saving up for a Long Neck Nano - that tool is just too cool -

Agreed - my Rupes 21ES is like a precision tool compared to the Porter Cable on my shelf from 2005

iBrid <3 - Did you use the Rupes blue foam pads? Looks great, I am itching to get a long neck Nano

Rupes ES tools are now manufactured here - my November made 21ES says Made in USA of EU components on it - not "foreign components" - Go with the Rupes - the ES tools are still sold and great machines if you don't have the money for the MarkII (and not everyone needs a MarkII either)

Toyota is soft as can be - you'll need a finishing polish or at least the finer pad -