Aaron@P2PQD

Being in Australia I regularly have to deal with fast flashing due to the ambient heat over here, This summer I corrected several cars in 40 degree celcius ambient and I feel your pain, probably one of the steepest learning curves I've had. The heat & humidity literally wreak havoc on the rules, Here's what I've found through my experience. All I can say is thank god winter's here! - Decrease the size of your polishing area, sometimes I'm working 1' x 1' to prevent the polish drying on the panel before it's flashed - Use water instead of Detail spray and keep the pads moist to extend the flash time - Reduce pressure on machine - Arm speed will become critical, Usually I find I need to move a little quicker over the panel and sometimes do 2 passes. Hope this was of use to you, Good Luck! Aaron

I use them regularly for Quick Sealant. Takes me 15-20 minutes to get around a mid size sedan

+1, If it's marring this should remove it

You shouldn't get holograms if you keep your pad temp under control, I keep the drill speed down and move across the area a little quicker than with a DA, and keep the pad well lubricated. Then follow up with with white foam and finishing polish. Other way to attack it if your not too confident is just stay with the white foam and white polish as Michael suggested. Best advice I can give is don't get greedy or over confident and you will be fine, Just go easy and analyze the area between passes to stay on top of the process.

Have experienced this before on really soft resprays even with fine grade clay. When I'm claying soft surfaces I usually use alot of lube and pull right back on the pressure. I wouldn't stress too much about it, Paint Finishing Polish will definately remove it but I would try your luck with Revive first. Let us know how you go

New formula is really good. Dusting has been greatly improved and in most cases seems to cut a little better too

Thanks Jason, I haven't had any attempts for about 12 months now but we've changed the way we use it and store it also. Thanks Calvin, These came with fairly light BBS wheels from factory and I think the Works might be slightly heavier. I'm only keeping the Works on their because when I go to a wider set of fenders I'll need to go to another set of wheels also. Most likely be Advan RZ-D or RS-D's. Thanks Bruce, I know what you mean. I actually went out looking for a 70's Chevelle or Challenger and somehow came home with this even though I swore I'd never own another rotor haha.

Hey All, Been a long time since I've posted as I've been busy setting up shop and focusing on getting my business off the ground. I've kept this a bit of a secret around these parts but alongside my pride and joy Calais I also have a Mazda RX-7 that I like to track and gymkhana occasionally. I don't post much info on this car as I've had quite a few theft attempts over the years, And although I can always buy another one it won't be THIS one. This is one of those cars that is like your best friend, It's more than just the sum of it's parts or it's monetary value to me and I'm sure most people on this forum know the feeling I'm talking about. It's a 2002 Spirit-R Type A, build number 1403. It's believed that of the 1500 Spirit-R's Mazda built to send off the FD chassis only about 500 were Type-A's so unfortunately it's thief bait. The Type-A's were basically the track spec version with fixed back buckets, stiff bilstien suspension and about the quoted flywheel horsepower at the rear wheels. This one makes in the vicinity of 300rwhp on 10psi of boost and I have done alot of work bringing the weight down to slightly under 1100kg. At the track it can hold it's own, It's not the fastest thing on 4 wheels but I usually manage to be at the pointy end of the rear wheel drive cars which isn't bad considering it drives to the event and home under it's own power. So onto the detail, As I use this car primarily for motorsport it doesn't get alot of love in the paint department. A few months back I decided to give it a pass with the flex and throw some wax on to tidy it up a bit and to my surprise it came out fairly decent. I didn't take many before shots as I only set out to clay and seal the wheels. As usual I did get a bit carried away, Here's what I did - Clay, Revive and Quick Seal Wheels - Clean wheel arches and suspension - De-Oxidize and dress trims/rubber seals - De-Badge "Mazda" and "RX-7" to clean up the back a bit - Delete rear window wiper as I never use it (and I have plans for the reservoir) - Removed Rear Wing and cleaned/polished/sealed underneath it - One pass of Paint Correcting Polish with the Flex 3401 and orange Microfiber - Liquid Paint Seal and Patriot Wax - Install rear diffuser to clean up rear airflow - Strip off previous Meg's interior product and apply Total Interior Detailer Here's the pics Before So after looking at these pics it is pretty apparent that the paint is lacking some serious depth and gloss. Being Silver I didn't expect such a big turn around though. Something I failed to capture was the 12 years of swirl marks it had. The wheels were also hammered from years of heavy braking, They came back pretty well though I thought. The wheel on the right is how they came off the car, The one on the left is clayed/polished/sealed And here is after, Sometime after the wheels I forgot to take pics. When I sink my teeth in this usually happens. I hadn't finished the glass at this point and I'm amazed I could see where I was going! And this is how it currently looks with the diffuser on, That was a bitch of a job and I'm still a bit doubtful as to whether it actually works or not at that ride height or whether it's just extra baggage. If it doesn't work it'll be going in the bin. Well, That's how it sits now. Next on the list is to get the alky injection on and sorted and hit the dyno to get a bit more out of the tune.

This was the day after I did our DD with LPS and Patriot, Got some unexpected rain and was pretty impressed. The LPS has only just started to break down after 8 months, Pretty happy with it's longevity and hanging out for the new coating

Basically Yes, Australia never dropped the Falcon and I believe it is a bit bigger than a Fusion, Falcon is RWD also and I believe the Fusion is a front wheeler? In the next couple of years Ford are stopping production in Australia and we will be getting the Fusion as it's replacement, Can't say I'm overly happy but Ford needs to remain competitive and people are moving away from our bigger sedans these days. On the flip side we are getting the Mustang though and I'm hoping Chev will bring the Camaro & Corvette to the market when Holden ceases manufacturing here also. Pretty crappy we don't build cars here anymore though, I feel like we were just starting to figure it out haha

Low profiles are where I find the full size brushes have trouble. When you have a vehicle that has low profile tyres and tight fitting rims the big brushes are just too big. You need something palm sized and short bristled to tackle these properly, I make do with a shoe brush at the moment but something fit for purpose would be better. I was tossing ideas around for one a while back and I think it would need to meet the following criteria to work - ergo moulded palm size grip, not massive though. Something that can be turned sideways to deal with 30 profiles on 255-300 section tyres - lightly rubberized to prevent damage with a fender/guard if contact is made, Alienware laptops have a nice soft feel rubber that's pretty hardy and may work. I don't know what it is specifically though - slightly softer bristles than a fender brush to allow the bristles to work into the lettering and recesses on the sidewall and also down into the bead without damage - Could also be used to clean the tread blocks out for show cars that see road use These are just the ideas I've been tossing around, Majority of my customers have cars with 30/35 profiles and slightly tucked wheels, I think there is definately a gap in the market here for something smaller and more maneuverable. Would be more than happy to discuss with you further Dylan if you want to have some feedback Thanks Aaron

Mixed emotions on this but I think it is the right move to remain relevant in the market and to continue to move forward. I completely agree with and support the decision, Keen to see what products start to filter through!

I'm glad this came up as I was pondering this only the other day. Thanks for the good info gents

This may sound a bit odd, But try some Eucalyptus Oil on a microfiber and see how you go. the only time I ever use this is if I have super stubborn staining I can't remove any other way. I rinse with water after every application as it's pretty heavy duty. You don't want it on your paint too long, I would test in an inconspicuos area first, I only ever use it if NOTHING else works.