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TheWolf last won the day on December 13 2018

TheWolf had the most liked content!


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    Spokane, WA
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  1. Only 10 left! https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-trunk-mystery-box.html
  2. Checked airfare to down-under so I can buy a new cordless polisher. 😁 Its a short-throw DA with a selector switch to put in gear-driven mode. Makita has some serious cordless tools with power equal to and even exceeding corded models. I have already switched all my outdoor power equipment to Makita cordless and love not having the noise and fumes of gas-powered equipment. So I am already stocked with batteries for when this hits the US. It will be interesting to see if the gear-driven mode will correct more like a long-throw, even though the Makita has a shorter-throw.
  3. Welcome to the forum Craig!
  4. I think he meant that he edited his post because the response was already covered in this thread. Check out these two threads for aniline leather:
  5. @DanielChaves Now that I looked at the photos on the computer and see more detail, it looks to me like house paint. On the fender flare, the way that the stuff is kinda swirly from where the wind whipped it around, is not how mud or even concrete splatters. If claying does not remove it from the fender flare, I would try some Krud Kutter Latex Paint Remover, which you can get at Home Depot. Krud Kutter makes many different cleaning products, so make sure its the Latex Paint Remover product. I can't tell if the wheel well liner is textured plastic, felt, or has been sprayed with bedliner. Either way, if it is paint that got splattered, then its going to be tough to remove. I would try the Krud Kutter and a stiff scrub brush.
  6. I would disagree with the above statement. A dual-action machine like the Porter-Cable should absolutely be able to remove fine scratches, and will also remove major scratches. It just would take a little more time than a forced-rotation dual action polisher like the Flex 3401 or Rupes Mille. The advantage to those forced-rotation machines is that they will correct faster, and not stall on curves and contours. The disadvantage to the forced-rotation machines is they take more skill to operate. Since the scratch in the photo has not improved with the polishing, and it is a fine scratch since it does not catch on a fingernail, I wonder if the scratch is below the clear coat. @joshp14 Do you own this car, or is it just a car you are working on? Perhaps some portion of it had been repainted, and the clear coat was blended over this scratch?
  7. If it does not come off with your fingernail, and no detailing products have helped, it may be concrete (or grout) and not mud. This can happen when drive through construction zones, or from just running over a small spill from a mix truck. Check out this thread and try the concrete removal product in a small test area in the wheel well.
  8. Only 2 Travel Mugs left! https://adamspolishes.com/shop/specials/sub-category-1/adam-s-insulated-travel-mug.html
  9. It was an error to have the Detail Spray and VRT gallons still part of the old Flash Sale once the BOGO sale started. The prices on these two products has now been adjusted on the Flash Sale page.
  10. Welcome to the forum! Post some picks of your shiny, sharky vette!
  11. Only a few hours left on the BOGO sale! Giddyup while the giddy is still good!
  12. No. Ceramic Waterless Wash, like regular Waterless Wash, is more of a cleaner and does not have the lubricity to be used for claying. For typical claying, Detail Spray and diluted Rinseless Wash provide the lubricity. But since these both leave wax or polymers, I had recommended claying the coating with shampoo suds. Even when claying paint that has not heen coated, I still prefer claying with shampoo suds. It provides great lubrication, and saves time when the claying is done as part of the wash process. After the wash and rinse, foam it up again and clay, then rinse again. This also saves the step of having to remove the claying residue with a towel before polishing or applying protection. My thought is that this residue removal is a source of marring and scratching the paint. While some contaminates do stick to the clay or mitt, some or even most are just knocked loose and reside in the residue. So going after the residue removal with a towel is essentially just rubbing those contaminates around on the paint causing damage. So, by using suds and claying as part of the wash, the claying residue is rinsed right off, which is safer on your paint. This fact of contaminates getting knocked loose during claying and residing in the residue is why you should NEVER polish right over the residue, or apply wax or sealant right over the residue. Polishing over the residue is the worst, since any contaminates in the residue get picked up in the pads and worked against the paint by the machine. Also, the clay residue clogs up the pads making them less effective and increasing the time required for polishing. And it does not matter that it has been done and people do it, it just does not make any sense. Even the time savings justification that it "skips a step not removing the residue" does not make sense, since the time lost to clogged-up pads far exceeds the minimal time it takes to remove the residue before polishing. I know that I got a little carried away in this reply since that was not part of the original question, but just thought it should be discussed.
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