Red Rambler

12 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Was going to give an update...but found my hose is frozen 🥶. A clean car (RW) with dirty tires and wheels just feels wrong. 

I saw this the other day, someone suggested using a sidekick blaster if you own one to clear the water out of the hose after use, however any source of air would work. I ran into freezing hose issues as well. 

Little league

Show Time

I will add what I can. The below tire/wheel is brand new. This is with 2 coats of tire armor. It is more of a matte appearance and I did two rounds of tire n rubber cleaner with a tire brush. I am pleased with the appearance as I don’t like them super shiny. 

12 hours ago, Devon527 said:

Got my truck washed up last night, had to race to get it done with daylight savings time in affect now ?

Man, I can appreciate the hard work you put into washing that boat. I have the same struggle. Looking good. 

Shane, I am certain you have answered this previously, however I can’t find it. What is the typical maintenance procedure for a coating. What are the steps and how often. I am ultimately trying to make my coating last as long as possible. Thanks in advance. 

Did a quick foam and wash on my 01 topped with my favorite sio2 product. It has been quite rainy the last few days. Also got a new tire/wheel mounted, but need to purchase 3 more tires. 

Real dirty

After a well deserved bath

On 9/17/2018 at 11:37 PM, ColoradoSHObro said:

looks like you got good foam. mind sharing what you used and how many oz in the foam cannon? i have that exact same ryobi pressure washer 

I sent you a PM on the foam soap. I fill my foam cannon to the very top line on the side of the bottle, warm water and 3 oz of the said foam soap. It’s the best foam I have gotten, I’m not big into foam however seeing the pictures on Instagram I had to try it. 

7 hours ago, buffalobob920 said:

A great turn around great job ?

It’s a weekly occurrence anymore, but I enjoy washing so I don’t mind. I tried some new foam cannon soap, so it was the chance to try that out as well. 

Shane, thanks for keeping this thread updated, I like to reference it at times. I would call it the gold standard thread and appreciate the time and effort you take to document

Washed the wife’s daily. She is a field case RN and does lots of dirt roadin. 

Shane, I appreciate your effort in elightneing us on the forum on a daily basis, just know it is appreciated. I have applied 1 ceramic coating to date, and am thrilled with the results. As you know I did this in the middle of summer. My question is when is the ideal temperature to apply a coating, I am thinking along the lines of painting and 72 degrees, low humidity? For The Weeknd warriors like myself, seems like fall would be ideal time of year. 

9 hours ago, mc2hill said:

 

I have Coast HX5 flashlight that I use for quick inspections, and the specs on your headlamp look better, so you should be ready for swirl chasing!

Yep, my thoughts as well. I’m hoping it works out well. I already have lights on the stand and they work great however having a headlamp to focus with will only help. 

1 hour ago, BHarris23 said:

I personally like the scangrip I-match light. Their line of detailing lights are pretty solid and well built. They can be pricey though. 

I will take a look at this one, thanks 

Just as a follow up. I purchased a coast FL75R, which is a rechargeable headlamp with 530 lumens, and has the ability to focus or to be used as a flood light. It has a lifetime warranty. I purchased this new off eBay for $60. 

https://www.google.com/amp/s/treelinebackpacker.com/2016/10/06/coast-fl75r-rechargeable-headlamp-review/amp/

Yep, I sure did. I just don’t know how well I would like it. I might give it a try if all else fails. 

Curious if anybody has any suggestions for a light to use on my head while doing paint corrections. I have a set of stationary lights, but would like to purchase a quality light to use when my stationary lights are not an easy option. I’m speaking of the lights that go around your head with the elastic, the market is littered with these, but I would like a quality LED if anybody has one they could suggest. Thanks. 

On 6/7/2018 at 10:01 AM, rrmccabe said:

 

Keagan,  How does it look without boost?  I would hope I would not need boost that often.

 

 

It looks fine without boost, if it’s newer plastic to begin with. My truck is an 01 and the plastic is faded a good bit. The boost brightens it back up easily. I would recommend it. It is effortless to apply. 

On 6/7/2018 at 3:09 PM, Mariner said:

We have a sweet spreader tool for the piston rings. They’re about 2 feet in diameter. We change the piston crown based on running hours. Intervals for these pistons are 18000 hours, but usually they can last twice that. The liners (you can see our spare to the far left of me in the first pic) last about 50000 hours. However we take measurements (last pic) to make sure the liner is within its 4mm wear allowance, which this one was. No cross hatching required here. We simply bump up the cylinder oil amounts and Wartsila has a written procedure for piston and ring break in period involving certain engine RPM for specific lengths of time. The engineering involved in everything really is incredible. These slow speed plants are common on most ships nowadays because of the horsepower and torque outputs. 

Awesome. Sounds like a fun job for sure. Really impressed with the size of those. I did forget the RPM, being that large it would take lots of torque to get those pistons moving. I have built a few small single piston engines and my break-in procedure is fresh oil, run the motor at certain RPMs, but don’t allow it to idle for prolong periods of time until you know the rings are seated, dump the oil and go racing. I laugh because the pistons I’m dealing with are like 1/1500 scale of those monsters. Plus your dealing with tons of torque and a low rpm motor, if it’s diesel which I assume it is. Thanks for sharing. 

I would be curious to see those piston rings being installed. Those are huge! What was the main reason for changing the piston, looks like a lot of blow by? Often times when putting a new piston or rings in a motor a new cross hatch on the cylinder wall is required to seat the rings, but that would be quite the job as well. Impressed by the job! 

On 6/5/2018 at 4:51 PM, GXPaycheck said:

Sorry to bring this up again, but to clarify, it’s prep between restorer and coating, boost after coating, correct?

Yes, you are correct. Good luck, the restorer does wonders! 

Thanks to all who have served and paid the ultimate price. God bless. 

I like to use PS, topped with guard n gloss, and top that with reload. It makes for an amazing shine and last fine in between washes. 

5 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

 

We can certainly cut whatever pieces you’re looking for. We can pick and choose, or do multiples. 

 

One of the software packages also has a kit called “wear items.” Usually part of the front bumper, a pillars, roof line, door cups and maybe a misc other piece of two as well. It’s kind of a watered down kit, but good for quick coverage. 

 

Send me the year, make, model and trim and I can look up the pricing easy enough. 

2001 Dodge Ram 2500, quad cab. thanks sir!

Hey Shane, awesome gesture here. I would be interested in a lower rocker panel kit as well. Are you able to cut just the lower rocker panel? Thanks.