Jason S.

Absolutely. Once the hearing is gone, it's gone. Always use the foamies with my sidekick blaster and often the Bose noise cancelling headphones with my polishers.

Need some advice. My buddy has a 4-year old truck with pinstriping he wants removed. Its starting to harden, crack, and chip away. I don't have any experience with this, so I'm not sure what's the best technique. I want to avoid any scraping so I don't scratch the paint. Should I try a heat gun? A solvent? Thanks in advance.

Heading to the office...

I tried it this weekend. What a difference! My windshield is invisible.

I recently glazed, then sealed for a customer, sort of as an experiment. It seemed to work beautifully. I'm waiting to see how it affects the longevity of the sealant. But I've read a lot of posts that claim the difference is negligible. But yes, it would make sense that it would do better with naked paint.

I do this too. But I first do an initial, rough vacuuming, to get the bulk of the loose debris off the floor. Then blow out. This prevents blowing huge amounts of dirt all over the place. Then I do a 2nd stage deep vacuuming. This is followed by any required steaming and/or carpet cleaning. Just before customer delivery, I often do a quick final vacuuming to pick up small debris that I might have tracked in doing the rest of the detail.

Yes, I watched in horror one day while the "detail crew" washed another customer's car with a dirty bucket and bristled brush attached to a broomstick. And then did touch-up drying with paper towels. I still have nightmares about it. Generally, dealers just have too much volume to do the kind of detail that anyone on this forum would prefer. Unless, you are buying some kind of rare, specialty car, this is sadly the norm. Agree, no protection is on your car. Just dealer installed defects.

I'll ask the obvious question: what is your regular wash regimen? Or winter wash?

I use my SK for paint sealant (grey pad) and Brilliant Glaze (red pad) in addition to normal paint correction.

Never heard of blob remover. Learn something new every day.

A very cool idea, Shane. It's very interesting (and quite common) that detailers like to share their knowledge and experience. For free.

I have a full arsenal of Adams products and I'm pretty confident about how I would tackle scratches in glass, but I'm trying to give some advice to a buddy (who's on the wrong and opposite coast) about how to fix his. He is not a skilled detailer and he doesn't have any machines, so anything he does will have to be by hand and likely using off-the-shelf products. While I convince him that he needs to start splurging on Adams products, do you have any ideas for him to try? I would classify the scratches a light, with a few heavier ones that your nail might catch on.

Dan is the man! I am not one of those people upset about the 3-step polishing. Adams has been missing a compound from its lineup for a long time. So I was glad to see it. The "medium" cut you mentioned can be created by using different pads, as Dan mentioned. microfiber pads are amazing technology that bring you great cutting power without the disadvantages of the rotary machines & wool pads.

That would probably work. I think you can also add a dash of Adams all-purpose cleaner as well to your normal wash. That would be my preferred method if I didn't have the strip wash.

I would do the strip wash for sure. The finishing polish doesn't do much correcting. And if you polish on top of the wax, you are just going to fill up your pad with wax and diminish the effect of the finishing polish. As far as sealant vs wax, I think that's all personal preference. A vehicle only driven 30 days a year is an excellent candidate for wax. And if that's the case, I would go all out and get the Patriot wax. My daily driver gets the liquid paint sealant, topped with Americana paste wax. This is a very popular combination.