rrmccabe

I will try it. I don't see myself using it in a cannon as I don't want to be be dealing with shampoo residue. I have been rinsing my cannon 'lightly' between uses. Really don't want to do more than that 😔. I would consider buying a keg and keeping it in there though and doing a final rinse cost that way.

I see they snuck another product in on is. Big fan of drying agents but not sure how I feel about this one. Will give it a try though. Doubtful I will use the cannon method but wont rule that out either. Rich

Glad it worked out for you Ray. I was quite surprised the difference in thickness in foam. With the 1.1 the foam hung around a lot longer and really has made me rethink the potential wash process. Rich

Hi Marshall. I am sure at your PSI/GPM your cannon works great. I am probably about half the GPM as you so switching to the 1:1 orifice really helped. Be nice if Adams included the 1.1 orifice for those of us with the smaller units. But I just grabbed a tip off Amazon which comes with one of those little pads that go inside the gun too.

Understand that ! I have been known to have to go looking for it. I should buy another. Having quick disconnects on everything makes switching easier so going back to the firehouse is not a big deal. And as you agree it does a great job.

Hi Ray, I have had an Adams foam gun for about 5 years (best guess) and I am sure its had less than 15 uses. Just never really found much value it it as most everything I put on ran off. Maybe I am doing it wrong. Just seemed like a lot of shampoo down the drain. I finally got a chance to give the new pressure washer 2.0 a workout with the premium foam cannon. I did order a 1.1mm nozzle for it and I can say the difference is significant. Would recommend the 1.1mm to anyone running a pressure washer with similar pressure/gpm. I would say the cannon is going to make me change my normal wash process. I tossed 3 pads in a bucket of water with grit guard but added no soap as I usually do. Prepped the tires and wheels with normal chemicals and then foamed just tires and wheels with graphene shampoo. Finished wheels/tires and rinsed them off with pressure washer and gave the vehicle a quick pressure washer rinse to remove debris and clean fender wells. Once complete I snapped the foam cannon back on and foamed the truck. Washed the truck using the 3 pads in the bucket and the shampoo hung the entire time. Have to say I have never felt I had more lubricity than this time. The actual wash time was less but probably offset by the fact I had 3 pads to rinse out after. The only thing I am undecided on is rinsing with the pressure washer. Not sure the value in that except for saving water. I like my Adams fire hose nozzle and is much quicker than the pressure washer and I feel does a better job. I am considering going to a larger nozzle size on the pressure washer which will drop pressure and increase GPM. Maybe that will help the rinse. Overall I like the setup. Adams put a really nice hose and gun on the 2.0.

This should be fun. I dont often use pressure washer because I dont want to get out gas unit. I normally wash in my garage and this will allow me to foam and wash with door closed so I should use it more. I think the foam looks cool but honestly people probably get carried away with the importance of it. I guess the point is, keep the vehicle soapy and wet for awhile. Another thing that intrigues me is possibly using more mitts or even microfiber towels and once they are spent never take them back to the bucket. Just keep pulling out a new one. Find out this weekend as I do a full wash. I guess the only question I have is, I wonder if there are pros to switching back to regular shampoo or the graphene is the way to go on graphene spray coated vehicle.

Sounds like some sort of compounding is in order but how that is done is dependent on texture and how its assembled. A buffing bad is designed for smooth surfaces and is not going to hold up to rivets and seams very well. Might be a hand rubbing job which would be a horrendous task on a travel trailer but is not impossible. Do you have pictures? There are companys that sell gelcoat oxidation remover for boats, etc.

Thanks Ray, Well I will be using the least most the time with graphene shampoo. I am not hung up on playing the foam game like some people do. I just would like to keep it on the car as long as possible

Hey Chris, thanks for response. I did find a video that showed the orifice size was 1.1 mm. This video shows the hang time for the foam being much longer. For $6 you can buy two orifices and two foam maker pads. Seems it would be worth it??

I just took delivery on a Premium foam cannon today. I was tired of dragging my gas pressure washer out and since I wash inside and in the winter I really cant run it anyway. So decided to buy an Adams pressure washer version 2.0. Its down on pressure considerably over the gas unit but I think it will be good enough for my coated vehicles. That said, it seems that Adams sizes the orifice for a variety of pressure washers. I have watched some online videos were they recommend changing out orifice for the smaller GPM units like the one I just bought. However, I have not found anyone mentioning what to buy. Does anyone have recommendations. I have read "I bought mine on Amazon" but have no idea what to get. Rich

Well I know one thing. I am pretty sure if I ran this long I would destroy another backing plate.

Yea my new backing plate fixed things. I really don't think I was abusing it with heat but apparently so. I think I would hesitate to loan this Rupes out because of that. Need to pay attention when using Microfiber. I might have to try wool. Any downside? I have always used wool on rotary but never DA.

I haven't had the best of luck with the full coating but my experience was with the first generation. I will stick to spray coatings applied a couple times a year if needed. I understand what you are saying about the Denali as most of those are very detailed!! I don't anticipate it will take me 30 minutes to do this high country grill as its all horizontal sections.

I am going to replace my grill this weekend with an OEM replacement. I have had one loose plastic section since I bought the truck and minimal road hash. I had no intention of replacing it but found one on Ebay for under $200. The question is... Any reason I should not do advanced spray coating on the grill? Just the horizontal chrome sections probably. The truck had a full paint correction about a week ago and the Advanced Graphene spray coating which might be my new Adams favorite product. Once the spray coating is applied I have no intention of doing anything to it in the future except possibly hand polish and re spray coat. Looking for reasons not to apply to a brand new grill. Rich

This might have reared is ugly head now because in the past I have only used smooth and waffle foam pads. Does not appear there is much room for error when using microfiber so I am just going to have to keep that in mind. Unfortunately this was an expensive endeavor because once you lose the packing plate ($50) and the pads don't hold, you ruin pads too. So trying to get this thing finished at the 3 setting so I could coat it, destroyed 4 or 5 NEW pads possibly. Will know more once the new backing plate gets here.

prescription ointment

So I have a Rupes LHR Mark II. Last weekend I did a full paint correction using some new Rupes microfiber pads. I think this is the 4th vehicle I have buffed with the exception of some spot work with bird etchings. About 1/2 way through the pads were starting to slip off center and would not hold. I could see some smearing on the velcro print on the back of the pad and they were warm. At times I had the speed up to 4 and 5. I really did not make long runs with about 90 seconds being the longest pass I would guess. I am thinking I overheated the pads and toasted the backing plate. I have a new backing plate on order and will see how that goes. I have tried to research the subject and only thing I found was Dylan talking about the Mark II having more power than the first generation and to slow things down. So it appears to me, with microfiber pads I need to keep the speed to 3 or less and clean with air to cool between passes. Anyone with similar experiences? A backing plate is almost $50 with shipping so I cant afford to be replacing backing plates. Thoughts?

band clamp

I cant say I have used the new "surface prep". Just the stuff sent with a coating kit a couple years ago. Maybe its the same. In my case after a paint correction it needed a serious wash to get stray compound removed from the nooks and crannies and all the trim scrubbed with tire and rubber cleaner. I just dont think surface prep in that quantity would not have got it done. I dont know if the graphene shampoo was a good choice or not but I figured since it has de-greaser it couldnt hurt. But I wanted some lubricity in the wash bucket so that is why shampoo. Then I followed up with multiple IPA wipe downs. So really, I just wanted a really good cleaning everywhere before the spray coating.

Chris I thought APC has always been a recommended method of strip cleaning a vehicle. Pretty sure back in the day I have seen Adam dump it in the wash bucket directly. Its common practice for me to spray it 100% directly on a panel and wash with a shampoo mitt. I rinse right away so it never drives but its a go to for me.

Has anyone had issues with Rupes Pads staying attached? I ordered some pads and the DA Fine Microfiber Yellow Pad does not stay centered on the machine (Rupes Bigfoot). My backing pad is good shape so I don't see why it would be an issue. But cant even get through one pass and the pad is moving off center terribly. EDIT Actually, my backing pad might be bad. Because no pads are sticking as well as they used to. So going to order a new pad. This Bigfoot has only buffed 3 vehicles and is bag kept. Thought I took good care of it

Nevermind. I just polished the vehicle, spritzed it with APC and washed with graphene shampoo and dried with master blaster. Then used 20% IPA to wipe panels.

Zone Map

Getting ready to do a graphene spray coating (advanced) and not planning on using surface prep. Partly because I don't have any and partly because I feel better about dousing the panel with 25% IPA and wiping clean a couple times with different towels after polishing. Is there any advantage to diluting some APC or Eco and starting with that and then finishing with a couple passes of IPA? I saw a detailer on YouTube that actually mixed some APC with the IPA. Not sure how I feel about that.