flyboy9994

Love my red mitts. Not even going to bother with the merino wool.

Yes Yes Yes... I made the mistake of washing a bunch of my drying towels with a H2O G&G saturated towel and now my drying towels are effectively "sealed" and will not dry anymore. Now I pre-wash the H2O towels separately with All Purpose Cleaner and Microfiber Wash. Currently trying to restore my drying towels by washing them in hot water. I also put vinegar in the water softener cup to help get the H2O out of my drying towels. Hopefully I can save them but they're still not drying right.

Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products. Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed. Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck! P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

Thanks everyone. Also, thanks for the offer mc2hill. I've read enough good things about the Rupes so it's definitely going to happen. I wasn't able to get the car completely swirl free with the Porter Cable but definitely good enough for a daily driver. Thinking next time with the Rupes, swirls will be gone!

Well, it took me 10 months but I finally got the chance to do a full correction on my 2015 Camaro SS. If I knew now what a huge difference it makes, I definitely wouldn't have waited so long. I'm hooked now. I've been using Adam's products for the 10 months I've owned the car to provide protection until I could get around to a full correction. Mostly H20 GG and a few applications of Buttery and of course lot's of detail spray. I was hooked immediately on how great everything worked. When I finally got around to buying some double soft towels, I was horrified when I was wiping down my car and the finish was so full of crap that it was literally grabbing fibers from the double soft towels. Baggie test confirmed my worst fears. Keep in mind this was a new car at the time but it was really late in the model year and I'm sure this car sat on the lot for several months. Not to mention it was obviously washed via the dealer method: mop bucket, cheap soap and broom/brush used to wash several cars on the lot. Definitely had the dealer installed swirl package! This whole process took 2 1/2 days since it's still super hot in Florida and I could only stand it in my garage until about 11 a.m. With cooler weather, I could do this in one day (probably a long 10 hour day). OK, here's the rundown: Started with a good rinse and then full hose down of Strip Wash in a foam gun. Proceeded with two bucket wash with more strip wash. Went over car twice with Strip Wash to make sure everything was gone. Water sheeted readily with no beading. It was squeaky clean. Pulled car in garage while still wet and proceeded to clay entire car with detail spray to include glass. Clay bar was almost black when I got done. Unbelievable how much trash was in the paint. It literally felt like sandpaper and it was easy to tell that the clay bar was doing it's job as it would smooth out noticeably after a few passes. Paint Correcting Polish applied with orange pad and Porter Cable 7424. Used the orange microfiber pad on trunk lid. The Camaro holds water on the trunk lid and there was some major water spots. Really surprised at how tough they were to remove. Paint Finishing Polish with white buffing pad. Again, using the Porter Cable. OK, so now the paint is completely naked and I'm getting ready to apply Liquid Paint Sealant but I got to thinking about all the detail spray I used during the polishing process. I used it to prime the polishing pads and also to wipe down as I went along. I actually called Adam's and talked to Dan and we discussed that there is a slight amount of carnauba wax in Detail Spray but it shouldn't be a problem with the LPS adhering to the paint. Well, my OCD got the better of me so I wiped down the entire car with Waterless Wash (old clear/blue kind with no polymers) hoping to get the paint perfectly clean. Then LPS was applied, allowed to flash for 30 minutes and wiped off. After 1 hour of curing time, I applied a second coat of LPS, let flash and removed. By this time it was getting way too hot in the garage so I called it a day and let the car sit overnight. Next morning I carefully wiped car down with detail spray to remove any dust and proceeded with one of my favorites: Brilliant Glaze. OK, now the results are really starting to show. I don't know what's in this stuff but it floors me every time I use it. Then came the Patriot! This can almost be described as a sensual experience wiping this stuff off as it begin to reveal the fruits of all my labor. I was completely blown away to see what a huge difference a full correction made. Now I could see what the big deal is. The shine is absolutely stunning and the following pics do absolutely no justice whatsoever. I'm completely hooked and will make a supreme effort to do this twice a year. The only downside with this process is that I don't want to drive my car... ever... The thought of bugs or a nasty bird bomb haunts me in my sleep. Anyway, just do it! P.S. the Porter Cable was perfectly adequate but I'm definitely buying a Rupes for the next one.

I used to paint cars for a living several years ago and I remember a discussion about orange peel with one of the factory paint reps. He told me that factory auto finishes are applied with some orange peel on purpose. The robots are actually capable of painting a perfectly smooth finish without orange peel but it was deemed that a slight amount of orange peel is desirable in mass marketing auto finishes. A perfectly smooth finish would show every little paint defect and of course swirl marks would stand out like a sore thumb even to the average consumer. Of course we (as in Adam's OCD'ers) are always interested in a swirl-free finish and it is certainly possible with the current products. I just got done with a full correction on my newish (10 months) Camaro and I was absolutely astounded at the results, orange peel and all. A properly executed full correction will definitely make the factory orange peel a lot less noticeable. Of course it is certainly possible to wet sand and polish the clear coat to get rid of most or all of the orange peel but this will drastically thin the clear coat and definitely affect durability. Maybe on a garage queen and almost all show car finishes have the orange peel completely removed but certainly not on a daily driver.

Can you explain what "little bumps in the clear coat" mean? Do you think it's overspray or actual trash in the clear coat that may have settled on the car while the clear coat was still wet? Overspray should come off during the clay bar process but if its trash in the clear coat, it my require wet sanding.

AWESOME!!! I was going to hand print one but this one is perfect. Thanks for the bump.

Amazes me every time how much the metallic comes through on a well corrected clear coat. Love it. Good job.

I was also concerned about the prices when I first started using Adam's. Who in their right mind would drop hundreds of dollars on car wax and cleaners etc? Well, about a cool 1K later (yeah I've probably spent close to a grand) I'm pretty much a customer for life. Every product I've tried simply blows me away. There is obviously a LOT of research and development that goes into these products. Worth every penny to me. Now where's my H2O??? Must... detail...

Went to a car show not too long ago and was shocked at all the dirty engine bays. Mostly stock, late model cars (Camaro's, Challengers, Mustangs etc.) One late model Corvette was near perfect outside but the engine bay was filthy. I mean "lives on a mile of dirt road" filthy. Geeezzz, I surely wouldn't've had the hood up. Sure most of them were probably daily drivers but c'mon people, it doesn't really take that long. Someone in an earlier thread mention using Swiffer brand dusters under the hood. Best idea ever. Along with All Purpose Cleaner and Super VRT, In and Out Spray I'm usually done in 15 minutes. Perfect!

^^^^^^^^^^ What he said. Everytime.

Highly recommend Liquid Paint Sealant after the polish. Top with wax or even better, Brilliant Glaze. H2O G&G every 2nd or 3rd wash.

I can't remember where I saw this but somebody mentioned using one gallon of distilled water and 8 ounces of Adam's glass cleaner as a windshield washer solution. Supposedly had very good results. Probably going to try that myself. OK down here in Florida all year but not sure about up north when it starts to freeze.

Yeah my single softs that I use for detail spray are permanently stained pink! Really easy to pick them out from the bunch. I use the gray borderless for H2O G&G so no problems there. Otherwise it's just pretty much grab and go. Although I do certainly have "catagories": interior, glass, doorjambs, wheels only etc. And of course the "retirement bin" which I use for old stained towels, perfect for engine compartment etc.