slalom38

I’d love strip wash in a gallon!! 10 hands up!

Nope

I'm working on a metallic black Porsche. I've got some minor scratches on the hood that refuse to be polished out. The he most aggressive I've gotten is orange correcting polish with an orange foam pad with the SK set to 5. So do I go Microfiber pad with correcting polish or do I go to the next more aggressive polish and foam pad? I'm a novice at machine polishing so I'm a bit "clear coat" timid. Any direction will be much appreciated.

I'm working on a metallic black relatively new car. It has some surface scratches that aren't deep enough to catch my nail on, but I can't polish them out using the orange pad with a SK and adams correcting polish. I'm reluctant to go more aggressive on the polish, but would a microfiber pad on the SK give me just a bit more cut?

I've got a ski boat with black hull trim around the top of the boat hull. It has 10 years of water staining. I intend to use the SK with correcting polish and an orange pad. Then I'll finish it off with white pad/finishing polish. Is this ok for gel coat?

I arrived home after a 2 hour drive, and found what looked like a chemical drip stain on the driver side front fender panel. I tried a quick hit with detail spray...nothing. Then spent a sleepless 4 nights until I got back to my garage to fix the problem. Then went down the "Progressive Aggression Protocol"... 1. Revive by Hand...Nada 2. Revive with Swirl Killer...Orange Pad...Nada 3. Strip washed the area. 4. Clayed the area 5. Swirl Killer/Orange Pad/Correcting Polish... Had to go over it 3 times to get all of it gone. BUT...It's Gone! 6. SK/White Pad/Finishing Polish 7. SK/Grey Pad/Reapplied Paint Sealer where I hit the fender 8. SK/Red Pad/Glaze Outcome...Perfect=Happy Guy So, the question..What would you have done different? I really thought I saw a repainted fender in my future. I'd love to know what anyone thinks was the source of that damage. The only thing I remember possibly being the source is me running through an "under bridge" puddle when it was dry everywhere else...but I'm guessing.

How do I handle polishing around the badge area?

Where does brilliant glaze fit into this?

Not much shade in my driveway spring and summer. Anyone have a recommendation for a reasonably easy setup/breakdown canopy that won't break the bank? I'd like to stay below $300

Using Adams waffle drying towels, and plush micros for the cleaning.

NE winters suck. I took my brand new Macan (metallic black) to a touchless wash, pulled out, sprayed it down with detail spray, drying rags to dry and I got...scratches and swirl marks! Would spraying on rinseless and then wiping down have been a better way to go? I see a weekend correction, seal, glaze and wax in my future. But, I'd still like to know the best way to avoid the cruelty of winter..

I just layed down a coat of buttery wax by hand. It's very easy, but also easy to be inconsistent. I'm thinking I'm going to lay down a 2nd coat using the SK (which I just got, but haven't used yet) using a grey pad on the SK. I'm hoping it will provide a more even application,and probably end up using less wax. Yes, no,maybe?

I just received the SK. I'm not going to be dong anything for a few weeks, but I will say that the overall feeling of quality is undeniable. It has a high quality "heft " to it, and feels and appears to be very well made. Can't wait to rip into a correction. It's been a tough winter, and I had my car under a brightly lit gas station canopy the other night, and was horrified by the "dirt rub" swirls and scratches. Bummed me out.