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Posts posted by tmevilsizor
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This sounds stupid, I know. Nobody seems to take my advice seriously.
I grew up around hundreds of pine trees. I also cut down several dead pine trees. I am very familiar with pine sap/tar.
I used to use margarine to remove the sap. Butter doesn't work, so it has to be margarine. I used it on my hands all the time.
Over 15 years ago I applied this knowledge to my first car. It worked flawlessly! It isn't a harsh solvent and I didn't need to use a blade.
Give it a try. I bet you'll be amazed!
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I think you completely misunderstood my previous post. I didn’t try to convince you that you HAD to have an ozone generator in your arsenal. I was merely explaining the benifits and advantages to having one. I use mine for my limited customer base and I find it a cheap and well appreciated freebie. Keep on keeping on.
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1 hour ago, pirahnah3 said:
Hit up your local dealer or find one of them online, was not hard at all for me to find one and have it ordered in a few minutes.
Is this a similar situation to the rubber mat cleaner? Dealer exclusive only?
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5 minutes ago, cwp2016nd said:
I will not be using an ozone generator but I bet I will kill the smoke smell. It is not necessarily "needed". I would still have to thoroughly clean the entire vehicle the same way. But then instead of using the ozone generator afterwards, I will be using a chemical that is highly successful in eliminating smoke odors. I have seen and heard of people using this chemical to remove smoke odors from homes that have had fires. I know for a fact it will kill cigarette smoke odor as well.
It is a matter of being diligent about cleaning every surface to get rid of the tar/nicotine that has coated the interior of the vehicle. That is #1 priority. While the customer didn't specify he wants the smoke odor eliminated, he said he wants the interior cleaning to be the main focus of my detail.
I have tried all of those things on my basement. Many different companies and products. I bought my house in January from a couple that had smoked in it for 12 years. We used TSP substitute to scrub and then squeegee the walls. We used killz primer and then painted the freshly cleaned walls and ceilings. We had the carpet professionally cleaned. Nothing would take the smoke smell out of the basement. I bought the Ozone machine and used it for around 10 hours over 2 days. Just like that the smell was gone. I understand that a vehicle doesn't have as much surface area as a house, but the sprays and chemicals take the smell out temporarily (maybe even months), but to truly eliminate the smell for good the Ozone generator is the best to have. I don't detail as a business owner, but just by word of mouth and when I have the time. It's a free service I throw in, and everyone comments on how fresh the car smells.
MY opinion is this; if you can remove odors permanently by using a machine (no maintenance and only the cost of electricity) versus buying chemicals to aid in removal, why wouldn't' you? There is no overhead or re-occurring expenses and thoroughly decontaminates with 0 effort on your part. Simply plug in and walk away. Just my $.02.
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22 minutes ago, cwp2016nd said:
It seems that these large trucks have a way of finding me. I will be doing a full detail on a 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 this saturday.
Exterior -
Wash
Decon
Clay
One step polish
Paint Sealant
Chrom Trim Polished
Interior -
Thorough cleansing
Carpet/Seat "shampooing"
Headliner Cleaned
Smoke Odor Removal
Fully Dressed Plastics
I will post some pictures of the truck tomorrow. The owner used to be a heavy smoker so I will be removing the smoke odor that lingers in the cabin. Thorough scrubbing/degreasing/steaming of every surface in the vehicle is necessary. I have a product that I will use at the end of the detail to kill that smoke smell. It should be fun!
This is where the ozone generator is needed. I have used it in vehicles, basements, bathrooms. There isn't really a place you can't use it. The important thing to remember about ozone is that you must follow the 3 P's (people, pets, and plants). There are just some smells that can't be removed without the use of an ozone machine. A major source is in the air ducts (besides the direct contact zone such as a headliner). The ozone doesn't just cover up smells, it literally disinfects them. It kills mold, mildew, and whatever else the type of funk is. They aren't that expensive. I bought an $80 unit on e-bay and have used it everywhere!
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34 minutes ago, zw470 said:
Someone posted this in August. This half-assed limited release/dealer only stuff you have to scour the internet for is getting old.
I didn't realize that it has been that long already. At this rate, it won't be released until their Black Friday sale. I need it now! lol
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Can anyone from Adam's chime in on this? We were teased with it a few months ago. Can we know a roundabout date for release?
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8 hours ago, Rich said:
Questioning why there isn't fabric protectant already on the new sofa when you ordered it?
I was never offered that protection. They quoted me over 6 weeks for delivery time anyway, so I didn't want to do anything that would delay it further! I am a perfectionist when it comes to things like this and it would've driven me crazy to see spots because they didn't apply correctly.
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1 minute ago, moons21 said:
I use the 303 on my convertible top and it works great on that, same with my patio umbrella's. Water beads off the top of the car and umbrellas and UV protection. Not sure how it would work for something you sit on etc.
Another vote for 303. I'm starting to see a small trend going on here!
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1 minute ago, cwp2016nd said:
303 Fabric protectant works pretty well. I've also heard great things about Carpro Fabric. Gtechniq and Gyeon both have their own version of it and I can't say I've seen negative feedback on them.
Thank you Ian. I had forgotten about 303. I've got a lot of surface area to cover, so the other brands are just too expensive to use to cover an entire sectional. I'll have to check out the 303.
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I have a question for my Adam's family (no pun intended). I am getting a brand new couch delivered sometime in the middle of October. I want to protect the fabric from new. I have sent a few e-mails to Adam's, but I can't get any information. My question is (if Adam's Fabric Protector isn't out by middle of October) there another brand that you prefer? I am not sure if this question is even allowed here though. It is a product that we know will be released, but I don't have the option to buy it now, so I am hoping that we can discuss other brands.
Please let me know other products that work very well. I am not a huge fan of scotchgard. Let me hear your opinions.
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I've always been told that the best cleaner for Matte Black paint on a bike is Windex. It cleans, but obviously no protection at all. I would research the coating for Matte paint as Shane mentioned.
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I think your expectations on time are a little off. A have done a Chevy 2500 4 door with a standard bed. I only did a simple wash, wheel cleaning, wax (no polishing whatsoever), and an interior detail. It took me over 8 hours to do just that. With all of your added steps, this is easily a 12-15 hour job. Good Luck!
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Thank you for all of your suggestions. I will have to try this on my outdoor patio furniture! Don't stop now, please keep more ideas coming!
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3 minutes ago, ZMAN024 said:
It's not a household use, but you can certainly use the Interior Detailer under the hood to treat all plastic surfaces. It leaves a rich matte finish and helps repel dust.
Thank you OZ! I have a love connection with IN and OUT spray and I just can't break her heart. She performs so well for me. lol
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I have a quick question for other Adam's users. I still have a gallon of interior detailer left. I am wondering if anyone has any alternative (household) uses for this? I know that the DS works good on granite countertops and stainless steel, but has anyone figured out a different use for the interior detailer?
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26 minutes ago, GolfR said:
I got paint sealant in my last mystery bucket, but haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Do you do anything special with it? I've heard of people letting that sit on the car for a couple hours to fully "bond" but I don't know if that's truly needed.
Welcome Matt,
The older formula you could leave on for a few hours and easily buff off without issue. The newest formula that came out (maybe a year ago or less) smells like coconut, doesn't come off so easily if left on for a longer time. I was having some issues (make sure you apply very thin layers) with removing. I was waiting 10-15 mins before removing and applying thin layers, but I found removal to be difficult. I used on a few cars with a few different factors for temps and humidity, but consistently had the same issues. I spoke to customer service and they asked the man himself (ADAM!!) and he recommended shorter times to "cure". He said to apply to a panel or 2 at a time and use Ceramic Boost to help with removal if it is still difficult. Maybe you won't have these same issues, but I wouldn't allow the Paint Sealant to bond for hours. There isn't a need for it.
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Hey Moroni. Welcome to the forum! Don't forget to check-in at the New Member section!
The pad selection is pretty easy when it comes to Adam's products. The pads are color coded to the polishes that Adam's sells.
The blue is for the HEAVY CORRECTING COMPOUND. The orange is for the CORRECTING POLISH. The white is for the FINSIHING POLSIH.
The microfiber pad is going to be for heavier scratch removal, where as the foam will be for lighter scratch removal.
I typically use the microfiber pad for headlight lens restoration.
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18 minutes ago, hdrdtd said:
LPS bonds to and seals the paint itself. Waxes provide additional protection and shine.
So are you saying that the CPW doesn't bond to the paint nor seals it?
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I'm a little confused. I thought that the longest lasting protection should be applied first. If I remember correctly, the CPW should last longer than the LPS. Am I incorrect or is this counter-productive?
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1 hour ago, ZMAN024 said:
Once you get it clean, I would suggest applying the new (yet-to-be-released) Fabric Protector top help repel the salt stains in the future.
Yes!! I saw the teaser! I'm not sure how well the FP would stick though if I used a foaming tire cleaner/shine as a base layer.
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1 hour ago, mc2hill said:
I have used a foaming tire cleaner with decent results. Maybe a foaming carpet cleaner would work too.
Do you apply directly onto the insulator or do you spray the foam into a microfiber and rub in? Any foaming tire cleaner should work?
Foaming Tire Cleaner or Foaming Tire Shine?
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I am having an issue with *gently* cleaning the Under-Hood Insulator (attached to bottom side of hood). I have tried a few different spray on solutions, but to no avail. I know how easy it is to ruin this area, so I want to avoid using any scrubbing or agitation.
I'm assuming that it is still road salt from the winter that is causing the white staining. I have heard stories of guys removing the liner and painting it black with high-temp spray paint. I DON'T want to do this. I performed an engine cleaning and it looks amazing except for the under-hood insulator fabric.
Are there any tricks of the trade you guys/gals have come up with to remove this residue WITHOUT any scrubbing?
FYI. I've tried the carpet and upholstery cleaner and APC at different times but no effect.
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On 7/15/2018 at 12:14 AM, NM15 said:
I was just toying around with upgrading to the cannon. I think your write up really helped me determine I still want it but will be just fine with the gun for the time being
Thank you Nick. I'm glad I could help someone. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask me. I have bought MANY products and can help guide you if needed. SHINE ON!
Help!Tree sap removal?
in General Detailing Discussion and Questions
Posted
I imagine that margarine and a vinyl cover don't combine too well! It's an incredible hack and most people have this in their refrigerator already! I am just glad that someone else can verify I am not making this up.