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Everything posted by falcaineer

  1. If no offers, try and contact Adam's. They might be able to hook you up.
  2. Don't toss a FULL bottle of Coating Prep in the crate without checking if the sprayer is tight. On the bright side, it's a nice scent (at least it wasn't Wheel Cleaner), and now the plastic backside of my rear seat (laid down for space, crate set on top) and carpet in the trunk are definitely prepped for a coating 🙄😆
  3. Still a coating 😉. Let's see some pictures...
  4. Good to have you back, Kyle. Lots of changes with Adam's, so feel free to ask any questions you have.
  5. With Wheel Coating, you likely won't need a strong cleaner. The whole point is for the coating to not allow dirt, brake dust, etc. anything to cling to. At least not easily. You could probably get by with just a blast of water, maybe some car shampoo. And occasionally Eco WC, if necessary. Keep up with Boost, as well, to help even more.
  6. She does look great. Glad you understand chasing perfection is like reaching the end of a rainbow. As I understand it, Vettes have notoriously hard paint, so it could take several passes with HCC and microfiber pad, then Orange CP and microfiber and/or foam pad. Good luck!
  7. Really happy to hear you're on your way to clean paint! This forum is awesome, and isn't it? 🔥👍 As for the felt, yeah, it's mainly for sound. Rocks, wind, etc. An apparently paint 😉😆.
  8. Welcome back, Bill! Bottom line, "real" shine comes from proper prep and polishing. That's true for metallic and non-metallic paint. Waxes, sealants, etc are for enhancement and protection. The surface may feel smooth, but the baggie test will reveal any contamination that should be clayed. Polishing is something I do once, maybe twice a year. For your silver car, PS and HGG are an incredible combo that I'd highly recommend you try. Lighter colors like silver and white don't respond as well to waxes. Here's an article with more info. As for coatings, they aren't maintenance free. In fact, Adam's just released a whole new line of ceramic-centric products. And good timing on your comments. @Mantis just started a thread echoing similar thoughts...check this one out for my thoughts and those of others that feel/felt the same as you.
  9. falcaineer

    Happy Easter

    Happy Easter to all!
  10. I'm on the fence. I love maintaining my car with more traditional products...and PS and HGG are my favorite for white cars like mine. But as others said above, you still need to maintain coatings. With the new ceramic line, you can get the same feel for washing and waxing, just with more advanced, better protection, and longer lasting products. Ceramic Boost is like a Spray Wax and can be used once a month; the Ceramic Waterless is like DS but silica based and gives awesome shine and hydrophobic properties; the Ceramic Past Wax is like Patriot or Americana for application but lasts longer and still gives incredible shine; Wash & Coat is like Wash & Wax (another favorite of mine) but on steroids; and don't forget the new ceramic liquid wax, which is similar to buttery in consistency but works with coatings The more I think about it, it's almost as though Adam's realized making the switch is harder for some old schoolers, myself included, and designed their ceramic line to make the transition feel more comfortable yet more advanced. Wait, did I just talk myself into a coating??!! 🤔
  11. If it got somewhat better, can you catch a fingernail?
  12. I'd say that's pushing it, but you could get lucky... 🤞
  13. Wecome to the world of paint correction, @JP1129! No issues with over multiple days. It will take longer than you think, especially your first time, so planning the extra time is a good idea. Couple tips: - While you have the 3 Step, it may not all be needed. Using blue painters tape (no locking edges!), tape off a 2'x2' section representative of the entire car - most use the hood - and start with the least aggressive (Finishing Polish, white pad). Wipe off residue and see how it looks. If not enough, move up a polish and pad to CP and orange foam pad. Check again. And so on. Whatever you need to get that section right should suffice for the rest of the car, with maybe some exceptions...spot polish, of you will. Doing this will save you the headache of getting "done," only to realize you need to go all over it again...and maybe again. Trust me! - Paint Sealant will go quickly, so you may not need or want to wait a day at a time. Simply apply a thin, even layer all the way around, then wipe away residue with a plush microfiber. No cure time needed. Using the grey foam pad on the SK, low speed (2 or 3) will yield great results, laying it ln thin and evenly. You can also apply with the grey microfiber pad. - Use isopropyl alcohol 50/50 or Surface Prep and some Waterless Wash towels to remove polish residue before applying PS. There's no need to remove clay residue before you polish...it will come off when you polish and/or wipe use the surface prep. Finally, assuming of age, have an adult beverage at the ready...and take and post some before and after pics. Ask any more questions you have. 😎 Good luck!
  14. Welcome, Craig! That's quite the way to start. For future reference, apply the Boost every month or two. A year+ is too long. Plus you'll love the increased shine each time.
  15. APC for me. Works great. Don't know what IR would do any better for you?
  16. I usually use 5-6. Remember to have the polisher on the surface before you turn it on, and leave it on the surface until it stops. Otherwise you'll sling polish everywhere!
  17. IMO, absolutely. You're getting a 50%+ savings (biggest they offer for these), gives a great opportunity to try new things and/or restock, and the TO is a great product (especially the red one!). Use the Mystery History Thread to narrow the time frames and look back through the Mystery Box thread for examples of that you could get. But if you don't like to gamble and are unsure if buying something you don't need or want is for you, then don't do it. These are all chance.
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