Timmmay

I was enlarging the video but still never saw the volume control. I did NOT try full screen (basically enlarging 2x). iOS has since updated a time or two since then & now I see the volume controls, even without enlarging at all. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks but I don’t believe Safari has a mute button when playing media. The settings button only changes video quality.

Videos on all product pages have no audio or audio controls on iPad Pro Safari for me. Has been the case since new site was online. Thanks!

First off, hello all - new here but have lurked for some time trying to learn how to best take care of my vehicle. Thought I would share some of my experience/knowledge in an area that I'm quite experienced. Please do not take my comments as challenges to what others have shared - that's not the intent, as there are all kinds of things that can cause wheels to look bad and not all are the same thing. Like b_pappy, I was also a wheel designer for an OEM supplier (different company) and prior to that I worked in that company's test lab. Like he says, the coatings are tested but it's only for like 1000 or 2000 hours with the tests that simulate corrosion. There are other outdoor tests that take much longer, but that is more for testing the UV damage and fading of color and/or clear. True bubbles in or on clearcoat will be colorless or appear slightly darker - it's just a defect of the coating process that wasn't caught by visual inspection. Normally, these defects are attempted to be found by the manufacturer by way of visual inspection, segregation and then if deemed repairable, finessed out of the clear by light wet sanding and/or buffing (similar to body paint correction but in a smaller area). I'm sure one of the issues others have brought up is filiform corrosion, which grows on the aluminum and under the clear. It will often be gray-ish green or yellow and look like a moldy or bubbling patch or even like it's "worming" on the aluminum surface. It can appear under painted areas, but it's most commonly found on areas that are only cleared over bare aluminum (machined or polished). If you're familiar with Airstream trailers/campers, they are notorious for having filiform issues as well. A Google image search for "filiform corrosion on aluminum" will give plenty of examples on both wheels and the Airstreams. If you happen to see the X scribe, that's how the wheels are tested - they're scribed down through the clear layer and into the aluminum, exposed to a corrosive and then heat & humidity. Techs note the growth rates and the customers will pass or fail the test pieces. Areas where filiform most often starts or appears will vary but it most often appears first where the clearcoat has lost its seal or areas where there was thin coating coverage. The causes of this corrosion can be attributed to the breaks in the clearcoat combined with corrosives and/or humidity. The clearcoat breaks can occur starting with the manufacturing of the wheel (burrs, sharp edges, metallic components that are assembled together and rub like screws or bolts) or the breaks can happen through normal wear and tear (rocks or debris forcefully contacting wheels, clumsy techs dropping tools, tire installation/removal machines, pry off center caps or traditional clip-on wheel weights). As most have already figured out, the corrosives are what we throw on the roads or are already in our environment and then the moisture and corrosives are exposed to heat and humidity which tends to grow this type of corrosion between clearcoat and aluminum. Where you are located in the US does impact the length of time it takes for this type of corrosion to appear, but more often than not, it will eventually appear no matter where you live. Once it starts, it's not going to stop. There aren't any proven methods out there for filiform correction, as filiform can pit the aluminum and damage it. About the only way to correct it is to have the wheels remachined and recoated - but even then, it's going to return at some point through normal use. It might be slowed by way of washing, waxing, babying but that I am aware, there hasn't been any sure fire prevention or cure for this type of corrosion yet. Anyway, I hope this sheds some light on a couple of wheel related issues for a few people.