KeepinWithJones

Not the first person ive heard complain about the “other guys” foam gun. Ive had the Adams premium foam since the first day it was released 2-3 years ago, or however long it has been. Ive used it for 100s of washes. It’s been dropped, kicked, rolled around the bed of my truck (none of this on purpose) and the thing hasn’t failed me yet. It all comes down to how well you’ll take care of it. If you think or are worried it’ll get dropped and beat up id recommend the premium. If you’re gonna be careful and such then you’ll be fine with the cheaper option.

Ive had great results with using the Correcting Polish on boats. I did my uncles Yellow Supra last summer and it looked amazing after. I also use to use it on my old yellow Tigé. It really depends on how bad of condition the gel coat is in. If it is chalky you may end up having to wet sand a bit. But I would definitely try a compound/polish before wet sanding. Gel coat is much stronger than clear coat so its not as easy to burn through like clear coat. But it is very possible if not careful. Ive been looking for a boat to try the Heavy Correcting Compound on to see how it does on a boat that is in rough shape but no luck yet. If you go the wet sanding route you can go a little heavier as far as sandpaper grit. Ive seen people go as low as 400 grit but that was on something that absolutely destroyed. Just use the same knowledge you would on a car detail though. Least aggressive steps first. Hope this helps.

For doing it for your first time and getting that great results is great! I will definely send you that link in a PM in a moment. (not to sure to what the rules are as far as posting non Adams links are) I did some research on what you mentioned and that actaully looks pretty cool. I cant say i personally would use them but I definitely plan on picking some up and and at least trying it. As far as removing orange peel it is better to do so by hand from my point of view. Granted this is just from my experince and the way ive been taught. Its just one those things where you can pay more attention to detail and it is safer. You are correct on your statement about using a block in areas where there are heavier scratches and defects. I also dont use a foam block for wet sanding. its a differnt type of block system and it works great. I think i mentioned before that I have used a DA to wet sand and there is nothing wrong with it really. If i am pressed for time its what i do. But ill even use 3000 and 5000 by hand. I look forward to your write up with your experience. One other important thing to know before wet sanding is knowing how much material you have to work with. Some spots could have more clear and other could have less. Just something to keep in mind to avoid a burn through.

Wow! What a difference. Nothing better than looking at freshly polsihed out panel knowing that you just did that.

Amazing work!! Both on the headlights and tailgate. I just want to talk about the tailgate. You did the right thing by using a block for wet sanding. Being a painter i always use a block to wet sand. Just a tip on picking the right block. On a panel like a tailgate you can use a little stiffer block because it is flat panel. If you plan on hitting a panel with body lines and curves you need a block that is going to flex with the panel. (if you would like a reference as far as good kit to buy for wet sanding blocks i can send you a link) The only thing i would recommend is stepping to 3000 and then 5000. This is just my personal preference it seems to make the polishing a little easier and quicker. Ive never heard of these but im gonna go out on a limb and say this is something you put on the polisher (kinda of turning it into a DA) and use to wet sand. Just a word of caution. I will admit i am very new to the auto body world. Ive been in it for 2 1/2 years and painting for about 1 1/2 (I got really lucky with the opportunity) Ive learned a lot and still have much more to learn. But I personally wouldnt recommend using that system. From what ive been taught and learned its better to wet sand by hand. You have more control, and its more attention to detail. That is solely my opinion. At least for your heavier grits. Once i get to 3000grit and 5000 grit i will use DA to wet sand. And only do that because yes it is quicker. This is not to say you cant do it using that tool on a polisher because i have used that method ( just not that system) and had great results. I just believe its safer to do it by hand and you can pay more attention to detail. If im way off base with what that tool is then i apologize for misunderstand it.

OH MY GOD..... That is...wow im honestly speechless. I feel really sorry for those detail guys.

I apologize if I gave off the impression of taking it back and being a jerk to the dealer. By any means i am not suggesting that. For my dealership personally I know that they foot the bill for any damage done to vehicles as far as paint defects. Sometimes they can get it covered through GM just all depends on the situation. (it makes me happy when its covered through GM cause i get paid lol) But having that good relationship could very well work out in your favor. And wow, you got lucky! There is a ford dealer down the street from me and ive been told that people are paying MSRP and some have even paid several thousands over.

First off, beautiful truck! Very jealous. In regards to the heavy scratch. Obviously as stated above try the least aggresive methods first. But if its yields no results here are 2 options id recommend. 1: Take it back to the dealer and point it out to them. It pains me to say that for several reasons (especially as a painter cause it drives me crazy when i have to fix things like that because i dont get paid for it) But you just spent a lot of money on a brand new truck and it came damaged in a way. If youre lucky, Maybe they will have it painted for you. 2: If all else fails after trying to polish it out, you could try wet sanding it if you're comfortable doing that. Adams has a video on YouTube somewhere showing how to do this. I saw it couple years ago. Just things to keep in mind about that. The clear on those truck is thin. I believe medic001918 mentioned in something he posted that he measured the clear thickness and it wasnt stellar (sorry if that wasnt you or i miss quoted you) If you consider wet sanding option i can give you further detail on how to do it. Its simple you just have to be very careful with it. Again this is an absolute last resort!! Im in no ways recommending you do this now, just something to consider. I should have reversed the order of those options. Again truck looks awesome, great work!

When I first started there i worked in the detail department and cringed when I saw how they "washed" cars. On my second day i brought my personal Adam's stuff in and washed it the right way. Everyone laughed but when someone needed a car cleaned they came to me. Did that for about 6 months But using my own stuff got expensive among other things so i got hired into the paint shop and now i get to deal with them ruining my fresh paint jobs.

You really cant go wrong with the Adams Clay. Its the best ive ever used. The geo impression tool is a really cool feature and i actually havent dropped a clay bar with it (went through one to many clay bars by dropping them before the tool) Claying a new car like yours shouldn't take you to long as it is new compaired to a 5yr old car that has never seen a clay bar. Would recommend watching the video on the clay bar if you're unsure about anything.

So if im reading correctly your asking what an alternative protectant would be for the vinly. You could use VRT. Ive used it on my doors on a car i use to own that had vinly wrapped around them on the post around windows, with great success. (if that doesnt make sense i can find a car at work tomorrow and post a picture to show you what i mean, not sure how to exactly word it)

I stumbled across a thread on here a couple days ago where someone used the ceramic coating on their vinyl wrapped car and had good results. So you should be good with the stripes solely basing off what i read. As far as the plastic below the rear bumper I would believe that it is painted. We had one at work a couple weeks ago and it looked painted to me.

I work at a Cadillac dealership and it pains me to say this but they do nothing but damage the finish when they are sold. They get ran through a automatic car wash, and stick it in this "wax" machine thats drys it as well, or so they say. Ive worked at others were they would actually wax it but i wouldnt rely on it by any means. I would highly Recommend washing claying polishing and then using whatever your preference is as far as protection. Most cars come in from shipping with lots of rail dust, swirls, and overspray.

Hello all! New to the Adam's Forums but not the products. Have been a user for about 3 1/2 years. Got my start from a mystery box and well the rest is history. I consider my self a knowledgeable and avid detailer as by day i am a painter and am a weekend warrior with doing side detail jobs. But in the past 24hrs ive learned a couple thing and how to limit use of certian products. ( yea i was one of those guy using deep wheel cleaner for every wash) I look forward to learning from everyone here and maybe sharing some of my knowledge with you all as well. Just a quick word about Adams and the customer serivce. (yea i know probably belongs in testimonials) You guys are amazing. Any time i had issue with a order the response and solution was fast and simple. I had the pleasue of visting HQ this past June while taking 2 months off work to travel around the country. I was welcomed right in and really enjoyed seeing the place. You guys think the online store is overwhelming, go visit HQ and stand in front of all the products at once and try not buying them all. But to whomever helped me that day (ben i think dont remember unforutnatley) thank you for hospitailty and being paitent while i decided what all to buy because unfortunately everything wasnt an option. Again, Look forward to learning and chatting with you all Victor

I read something on instagram sometime ago that someone had layed down a coat of Americana paste wax and then topped it with ceramic boost. So I did this on the front end of my F150 (hood and fenders) and just ceramic boosted the rest of the truck. It should be noted I do a full strip and polish on my truck every 4 moths and use paint sealant as my main protection because i drive a lot and in all types of climate. The results were amazing. The shine and clarity was more than I even expected, with Americana/ boost combo and just the boost alone as well. ( i also use wash wax as my shampoo) I wasnt able to wash my truck for about 3 weeks till today (usually it gets washed once or twice a week) because Ive been busy and its been cold. So the truck was very dirty. The result were amazing. I was impressed by how much it held up with both ways i applied it. Ill probably do the Americana and boost combo more in the warmer months seeing had great results.