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About dg150

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    Kansas City


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    Kansas City
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  1. Is it the new ceramic coating or the old?
  2. I got my 16 oz bottle yesterday. I ordered it last Monday. Now I just have to wait for it to warm up and stop snowing.
  3. One of the main differences is how they are applied. H20 can be used while drying a vehicle. It saves time by being able to apply as you dry vs going back over the entire vehicle once it is dry with CB. So if I were just washing and wanting to add some protection I would probably use H20 as I was drying. If I had clay barred or done some sort of decon and had a dry vehicle I would go with the CB.
  4. When using it on trim do you just apply it with the microfiber and call it good, or do you wipe it off like on the paint? The video of the bed liner it looks like they just wipe it on and leave it.
  5. I agree with the guys that are saying it's the cost per application. An example of this would be if I'm using the product on my vehicle or someone else's. If someone brings me a vehicle to detail and they are the type that just runs them through an automatic car wash I'm not going to apply the spray coating to it. The amount of swirls they will have in the paint by the time it is worn off would not be worth it. They also wouldn't want to pay the extra money for it. For someone like that I'm likely to just use H20, or paint sealant and VRT on it. For my wife's car I would be more likely to use a coating on it. I do the maintenance washes on it and it stays fairly clean. I don't spend as much time on it as I do my truck so something that would make it easier to clean and not having to polish and seal every 6 months would be nice. For my truck I would probably choose the spray coating. I want good protection and easy cleaning between details. I do end up with some paint overspray on it at work so the cheaper spray coating that last 6 months would be better than the more expensive regular coating that would last years. I most likely wouldn't get that out of it since I have to regularly clay it and sometime polish to remove marring. On my GTO that sits in garage most of the time and is only out on nice days I use higher end waxes. So even though there are redundancies in some of the products they all do have there place.
  6. That is true. I typically don't get too long of life out of any sealants. The tires on my truck stick out past the fenders so I get a lot of road grime thrown up on the side of my truck. It tends to eat the sealants off pretty quick. Hopefully the ceramic spray will hold up better to the abuse. I can't wait to start seeing some reviews on it.
  7. What is the advantage to this compared to paint sealant? The longevity is about the same but the price of the ceramic spray is a lot higher.
  8. The wash and clay are a good start. You could possibly add in an iron remover to help break down some the contaminates. The 1 step polish has some sealant in it. I believe it doesn't last as long as the regular sealant. I would think you'd be better off using the fine polish then going over it with the paint sealant. If you were to apply the paint sealant over the 1 step then the paint sealant wouldn't last as long due to it not being bonded straight to the clear coat. Another option would be to use the 1 step then wipe the paint down with alcohol to remove the protection left behind by it and then apply the sealant.
  9. I got a ceramic coating kit for Christmas. I plan on putting it on my truck this spring. The thing I'm concerned about is I tend to get overspray on my truck at work. We have a paint booth we use daily to paint large equipment. I'm not sure why but no matter how often we change the filters we get paint blowing out our exhaust stacks and onto the cars in the parking lot. To deal with the overspray I have to clay my truck pretty often. Will the ceramic coating help the paint to not stick to my truck? I'm worried that if I have to clay the ceramic coating every couple weeks it will damage or scratch it.
  10. Before I sealed my truck I strip washed, clayed, polished, and then wiped it down with alcohol. I applied the sealant by machine. I made sure everything was evenly coated. The tires on my truck stick out past the fenders so I do end up throwing a lot of stuff down the side of my truck when it snows/rains. My rinseless process is as follows. I go to the pay and spray and rinse the truck off. I follow the regular rinse with the nonspot rinse. I then drive home, about 15 minutes on the highway. That gets most of the water off of the truck. I then use my sidekick to blow off any extra water. I spray each panel down with rinseless mixed a waterless wash strength. I let that sit on the panel a couple minutes then do the rinseless and dry it.
  11. I used a liquid paint sealant. I applied it about 6 weeks ago. I haven't clayed it. I figured that would completely remove it.
  12. So what you are recommending is what I've been doing. Even after that I'm left with some road grime/residue from about the midpoint of my door down and there's buildup on my lower panel by my exhaust. It rained the other day and my truck was "clean" before it rained. When I looked at the truck the lower half wasn't beading and had almost an oily look to it.
  13. I also considered doing that. I just assumed doing it right before the rinseless would maybe work better. Doing the rinseless would agitate it compared to just rinsing it off. Maybe i will try doing it before the spray and pay and see if it works that way. Also if the APC is diluted, say 1:5 with distilled water, any ideas on how much damage will be done to my sealant?
  14. I've recently switched to doing rinseless washing due to the cold weather. I've only done the method a couple times but I think it's my new favorite way to wash. I have been stopping by the pay and spray on my way home and just rinsing the chunks of salt off before doing the rinseless. My only complaint is that it doesn't seem to get all of the road film off of my truck. I was wondering if it would be ok if every couple washes to "pretreat" the area with some diluted APC? I would let that sit for about a minute then give it a spray with waterless mixture and then do my rinseless. I know doing this will probably be hard on my sealant but plan on doing a spray wax after. My only concern is not being able to get all of the APC off with the rinseless. Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.
  15. Sounds good. Thanks for the advice. I do like how well the soap at the carwash takes everything off the paint without having to touch it but obviously if it's strong enough to take all the dirt and bugs off it will also take the sealant off.
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