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LSX Maestro

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LSX Maestro last won the day on February 27

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  1. Americana Paste Wax vs. Paint Sealant

    The correct answer for me is BOTH. Start with a completely stripped, decon'ed, polished and prepped car. Apply Paint Sealant to the naked paint. Buff off residue. I would let the PS cure for a few hours but it's probably not necessary. Then apply Americana thinly to the whole car, two coats of it is better than one. The paint will pop and you'll love the shine. Just did it to one of my cars the other day (With the addition of Brilliant Glaze but that's unnecessary). I'd expect a properly applied and maintained layer of LPS to last 6 months, maybe more. Less only if it's really exposed to salt, rough washes, and stored outside. And I'd expect Americana to last 1-2 months in a daily driver situation. Also, look up and consider ordering some H2O Guard and Gloss as a replacement for a Liquid Paint Sealant topper, it is faster and easier to apply than paste wax, still delivers amazing shine and lasts a little longer. Either H2O or Americana should be applied on top of your LPS every 1-2 months, longer if you want, but I do 1-2 months. Strip it off in 4-8 months and repeat. Enjoy! *EDIT* to add some pros and cons... PS Pros: Durability Simple application Great base for toppers PS Cons: It is more of a function over form product if you ask me. It doesn't deliver as much pop and shine as a Wax or Glaze obviously. But it's not meant to, it's a durable base layer to make sure you paint is safe for a longer period of time. Americana Pros: Gloss and Shine, very hard to beat Americana Cons: Not extremely easy to apply but of course not difficult either Does not last very long compared to a true Sealant ALSO, the natural based Wax such as this with Carnuba can burn off in a week or two if exposed to high temperatures/lots of sun/salt etc. This is why I'd always put LPS underneath.
  2. Paint "Stains" under clearcoat

    Ok got the truck all cleaned up yesterday. I'm happy to report that Waterless Wash and Visco Clay took it right off, very little elbow greased needed. I attribute this to the car being layered with LPS + H2O GG + Detail Spray the day before it happened. I didn't take before or after pics but what I had was very similar to what you described. Some sort of spray/globs of it landed while the truck was moving on the passenger door. It didn't want to wash or rub off but Clay took care of it. In my limited detailing experience, if clay and a cleaner won't take it off, then you've got a problem.
  3. H20 Guard & Gloss - How Much?

    I apply H2O GG to my Duramax and I've found the same as you. But I'd prefer to make sure I'm adequately covered than saving a few ounces of product, so I spray a mist onto each panel.
  4. Polishing/Cleaning for a Brand New Car?

    Nope. Not at all. Most dealers are selling them right around sticker while incentives, rebates, and other "goodies" are getting them in the low 60s range. I've seen some guys on the Camaro6 forum walking out with $59k-$62k. I will go through the deal on mine when it gets here, I'm probably going to finance it. I know people are leasing them for $700-$800. Keeping the $60k-$70k in the market is better than writing a check for the sake of writing a check. I'll probably put $10k down from the sale of my previous ZL1. I've found that if I keep enough cash, put enough down and go aggressive on the financing (Shorter term, max of 3-4 years) then I can move out of them in a 1-2 years and upgrade to the latest thing while I keep my losses minimal. I shouldn't say that no dealers aren't adding ADM's because I know that some are...but they're sitting on them because people know they can get them cheaper from elsewhere. A dealer in Florida I believe had like 6 ZL1 1LE's for $3k-$5k over sticker. Didn't sell one of them and now they're 6+ month old stock and the dealer is dumping them for less than he could of while the "just out" hype was around.
  5. Paint "Stains" under clearcoat

    In your situation, I would recommend you: Strip wash the whole vehicle. Accomplished with either Adam's Strip Wash, or adding a few ounces of APC to regular Car Shampoo. Or Dawn Dishsoap which worked for me. Iron decon (This is accomplished via misting Adam's Wheel Cleaner or a product like CarPro Iron-X onto the car) Follow with Clay and a lubricant, which if you're about to seal right away I'd recommend using Rinseless wash diluted, you can use Detail Spray but I am skittish about the small amount of Wax that Detail Spray would leave behind. If you do use Detail Spray, then I would re-Strip Wash just to make sure the paint is as naked as possible. Hopefully the Clay + Wheel Cleaner will take off all of the spots you have. As noted Re-Strip Wash and/or wipe down the paint with either IPA or Adam's Coating Prep. (I Strip + Coating Prep wipe down at this point) Apply Liquid Paint Sealant by hand or by machine Apply H2O Guard and Gloss over the top and then apply the H2O every month or two after washes or using the Dry Method to maintain the shine and barrier as well as adding extra layers that nasty weather, road stuff, and fall out will land on instead of your clear coat Repeat in 6-8 months. Sooner if it sits outside and sees a lot of salt and the like. Longer if it's a garage kept car that doesn't drive out that much. This is my daily driver cycle as of right now. There's lots of small things (Glass, Trim, Wheels, intermediate steps etc.) that I'm leaving out but I think you can handle the rest. These forums and Adam's videos will contain all you need to know.
  6. Wax over a protection film

    I've seen PPF'ed cars at meets where the owner clearly just applied some kind of wax and just wiped it across the car like he didn't have PPF and every panel was outlined in white...Got to be a little more careful and maintain that line with some kind of cleaner and a q-tip or steam as Shane said.
  7. Kyle, that sounds like a good product in the works.
  8. Wax over a protection film

    Yeah I know it wasn't a shot at me and what you said is dead on true, I was just messing with you. I know first hand how much dealers like to cheat. Their bounds are limitless. But anyways, I'll keep this focused to detailing. OP, enjoy the new Vette!
  9. Wax over a protection film

    Why you got to expose us like that Shane. Just kidding of course, haha. Anyways... I plan on having the front ends of all my cars covered in Xpel Ultimate. Over the top I'll be layering Liquid Paint Sealant, then Brilliant Glaze, then Paste Wax. Prep before hand is imperative. You'll want to strip wash everything off, potentially clay, decon and polish, then usually you'll want to use something like Coating Prep, Eraser, or even IPA and apply your Sealant to as naked of a finish as possible for the strongest bond. Maintaining the top layer with your topper is important for monthly maintenance.
  10. Paint "Stains" under clearcoat

    Well, it's possible, especially if the wet sand doesn't go well. I'd try as many things as you can before moving to that though. Iron decon with wheel cleaner and clay is what I plan on trying this weekend. This is why 1 or 2 or 3 or more sacrificial layers of Sealant/Wax is important. I took my thumbnail to a spot and it looked like it would come off with enough convincing whereas it never budged on my un-waxed Camaro.
  11. Ceramic boost?

    So in your experience the Boost is a better performer in every way than the H2O? The thing that sets H2O above just about any other sealant is that I can mist my car with it monthly when drying it and boom another month or two of protection and shine is in place with no extra step...I'd be misting DS on and drying anyways. But for a garage queen, Ceramic Boost may be worth the extra step. Is it more hydrophobic and slick than H2O?
  12. There's no product that's going to remove a Ceramic Coating in Adam's lineup to my knowledge; you could even use eAPC if you want. Rinseless dilution/waterless should take care of it I would guess.
  13. Paint "Stains" under clearcoat

    I have a very similar stain (Several dots) on the side of my white Duramax that I noticed just the other day! Smooth to the touch, I washed it late in the evening at a Pay and Spray so I must not have noticed then, after getting it back in the garage and drying it with DS I noticed the orangish stains. Nothing that I tried wiped it off...My paint is layered with LPS plus several layers of H2O GG so hopefully when I get some time it will come off. I had the same staining on one of my white camaros (now sold) and it turns out it was shingling material from a roofing job. It was like a black dot on the paint and then once you wiped/washed it off, it would leave a almost rusty/orange dot that was very hard to impossible to remove. I experimented with compound to see what it would take to remove and ended up going so deep that I got to paint and went through the clear coat before I got it off in that instance, this was on a painted mirror cap that was already destined for a replacement and repaint (Cracked by a hit and run *facepalm*). My two guesses for my Duramax and for your car are either a winter chemical used by the lovely road commission, or it's some sort of tar like the roofing stuff (Could have come from the road as well, cold patch crews, and the like).
  14. Patroit wax for sale on ebay cheap!!!

    Wow wish I had seen this before ordering a few days ago.
  15. SK mini

    Griot's 3" and the SK Mini basically have the same job, no need to have both IMO. A 15mm or 21mm + the Griot's 3" should handle any thing you could do. If I were you, I'd only pick up a 15/21 and a complete pad and polish kit for both the Griot's and whatever SK you get.