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VetteDream

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Everything posted by VetteDream

  1. +1. I live in the Charlotte area, and may latest order will take about 10 calendar days from order date to be received. On the mystery box/bucket front, I think it would be incredible if you were able to look at order history and mix in products a customer has never ordered directly from you and products that are ordered regularly. Almost like a semi-personalized MB. I love it when the included products are complimentary, such as glass cleaner with the two pack of glass towels, or Revive Polish with a blue applicator, etc. This would take it to a new level.
  2. Thanks - this makes perfect sense, and is close to what I did before I coated the car.
  3. My car is coated with Adam’s CC, and I have applied CPW and used CB within the last 2 weeks. When I drive to a car show, what is the suggested product(s) for getting the road dust/dirt off from the drive to the show? I am also looking for the last minute shine/pop - like I would do with BG/DS prior to coating the car. Should I use WW and/or DS, or perhaps more CB instead of DS? Any other suggestions?
  4. ^^^^ Ceramic wax will add the slickness you are used to. I recently applied it over the new ceramic coating and it definitely adds the slickness to it.
  5. I love this as well. It does take a little more work, but as long as you don’t do too much at a time it really isn’t any more difficult than Patriot Wax to remove. I love the shine it adds!
  6. Looks great - nice job! And just when you think it can’t get any more shine, add Ceramic Paste Wax - you will be amazed ?!
  7. I love Waterless Wash, and am considering buying a gallon. I have seen that Rinseless diluted 1:16 is a suggested Waterless Wash solution. Has anyone here compared the diluted Rinseless to the actual Waterless Wash product - are they actually the same product - one concentrated, one diluted? I am wondering if RInseless has the same lubricants and whether it adds shine at all. Rinseless gallon would obviously go farther and be a better buy, especially if it is essentially the same.
  8. I just did my Tahoe side steps - if you use VRT, even diluted, they can get very slippery. I use diluted VRT to restore the deep black color, then knock the slickness down with Interior Detailer, which leaves the black in matte finish without leaving them dangerously slick.
  9. I finally got to use some products I have ordered or received in MB’s recently and thought I would give some feedback. Ceramic Paste Wax - Love it! Put it over a CC, and it provides fantastic shine and is easy on/easy off. A little goes a long way. I give it a 10/10. Now one of my favorite Adam’s products. New Small Wheel Woolie - love this as well. I have the standard wheel woolie, but it will not get behind the calipers of the front wheels on my Corvette. The new one is small enough to get behind the calipers and clean the barrels without moving the car. I would also give this one a 10/10. New Detail Seat - received this for early Father’s Day yesterday. I used it all day today, while washing and detailing two cars. Assembly was easy (you need a hex wrench and a 10mm wrench). It is sturdy, rolls well, and the center tray underneath is good for a couple of MF towels. My only complaint is that the trays on either side are not exact fits for Adam’s 16 oz. bottles. One bottle holder is too big for a 16 oz, the other is too small. (You can possibly force a 16 oz. in the small holder, but it doesn’t fit well). The Adam’s Polish size bottles fit the small holder. When you put a 16 oz bottle in the big one, they tend to fall over/out when rolling. Just a little disappointed that the bottle holders aren’t made exactly for the products you are going to be using with the seat. I would give this an 8/10. Clay mitt - I used this for the first time today to quickly clay my daily driver. I used it while the car was still wet after washing it, using DS as the lubricant. It was super easy and quick to use, and results were decent. Maybe not quite as great as a regular clay bar, but the product still cleaned the surface nicely. I would give it a 9/10. One step polish - I received this in a MB a couple of months ago. I used it today to do a pass on my DD before a coat of Patriot Wax. I applied using the SK and orange pad. The car was fully detailed and paint corrected about 6 months ago, so I was looking for the best results I could get without spending a ton of time. The results were great! I would give this a 9/10. I do not know if I would use it as a substitute for correcting polish, but for what I did, it was effective. I likely would have seen similar results with Finish Polish. Eco Wheel Cleaner - also received this in a MB. Smells much better than standard WC, and worked good on wheels that did not have a lot of build up. I haven’t tried on really dirty wheels. I give it a 9/10. Truck brush - used this for the first time today on my Tahoe. Works great and I have no concerns about scratches from the bristles. My only concern would be the top is a hard plastic, like the wheel brushes. In certain spots on the car, the top of the brush can hit an adjoining part of the car and potentially mar or scratch it if you are not careful. Too bad there is not felt or something around the edges for that. I would give it 8/10. Curious to see if others have any thoughts on these items...
  10. Sorry for the delay - finally got time to do a mid-season detail on the Tahoe. This is my daily driver and sits outside. 2015 LT with 47,000 miles. Wash, clay mitt and DS while still wet, One-step Polish with the orange pad and SK, HGG on the wheels, then a coat of Patriot Wax.
  11. After doing my first CC a few weeks ago, I decided to also put CC on my daughter’s Honda Accord (yesterday) before she goes off to school in the fall. The second time around, my experience was similar to yours when I leveled it relatively quickly - it was easy to do. However, if I waited 30-45 seconds or longer, it was very tacky, and difficult to level off. After 24 hours, the applicator was almost rigid on the side used to apply the coating. I think humidity and temperature can impact all of this. I applied in a garage that was at least 80 degrees with near 100% humidity. I had a few streaky spots or high spots in both cases, especially where I overlapped on large panels or door edges. However, I had to be out in the sunlight to spot them the day after coating. I used BG to remove nearly all of them, and in a couple of spots I used finish polish. Ceramics Paste Wax topped both of them off. It came out great, as I suspect yours will.
  12. For me CB is sticky/tacky and not easy to work with. I used it after CC, as suggested, and it does leave the surface slicker. However, it streaks, and is so tacky that it leaves sticky lint along the edges of panels after you wipe it off. Admittedly, I used too much after ceramic coating, spraying several times directly on each panel. What I have found is that if you spray a little bit onto a MF towel, wipe it on, let it streak, then use a second towel to wipe it off, it is easier to use. Even doing that, I still get lint residue after using it. You will immediately feel how sticky it is when your towel sticks to the surface the first time you use it, and you have to apply a lot of pressure to keep that from happening. Again, that happens with light misting onto the towel or panel. Don’t get fooled by the video of Adam doing the Porsche, where he sprays CB 3-4 mists in the small 2x2 area. That amount will be very difficult to deal with. Others really like CB and even use it on non-coated cars. I just don’t like any product that requires so much pressure to work it off. I would think that its nature would introduce fine scratches if there is any dust/dirt present at all, since so much pressure is required. It is nothing like working with DS or WW, for example. BTW, I used new Adam’s single soft MF towels each time, so it wasn’t the towels. As I said, it does leave the surface slick in the end, and it may add a little gloss as well. EDIT: I am in SC, and temps have been high 80’s to mid-90’s with very high humidity.
  13. I just received the ceramic wax to use on my recently coated car. I added a coat of wax last night, and love it. Why did I buy it? I was looking for something other than CB to add protection over the coating and prolong the life of it. I also enjoy maintaining the car and I simply do not like CB. How will I use it? I will use it after decon washes a couple of times per year - strip wash, clay bar, possibly CB if surface is tacky, then CPW over the top. In my opinion, it adds gloss as well. I do not have any plans on layering it, other than using CB occasionally between applications of the wax.
  14. LSX, I just coated my C7 a few weeks ago and am very happy I did it. Great questions you asked, as I was wondering about a few of the same things. As you mentioned, the tedious prep was the biggest part of it, and took many hours. As far as maintenance, I would add that I just received Ceramic Paste Wax, as I took advantage of the sale last week. I know opinions vary on Ceramic Boost and the jury is still out on Ceramic Paste Wax. Based on my personal experience, I dislike CB, but I find CPW to be easy to use, and it appears (at least to me) to add a little gloss. Throw in the protection it adds on top of that, and I think the combination of the new 9H formula and CPW adds up to 2-3 years or more, depending on conditions. I may use CB after several washes, before I wax again, but I am guessing the wax will prolong the need for it quite a bit.
  15. So it has been a few weeks since I coated my car and used CB for the first time. After washing the car this weekend, I tried Ceramic Boost again. This time, I followed some advice given by others and sprayed CB directly on one MF towel, then applied to the car, as opposed to spraying directly on a panel. I let it streak up and waited a moment or two, then used a second MF towel to remove it. This worked way better for me than spraying directly on a panel. It still is not “easy” to work with, but it did not leave streaks after the second towel wipe and it did not take too much effort to wipe it off. It added slickness to the surface and some gloss. I am liking it better now that I have found a decent way to work with it.
  16. I would also like to see some start to finish stuff with the new products, incorporating answers to the most often asked questions here on the forum. Foam wars would be cool, as would the customer results. I would like to see a new/updated series like the last one with the Cadillac, going from wash to all of the way to ceramic coating, ultimately on to maintenance and all detailing steps in between.
  17. I find that VRT works very well on plastic, and leaves a sheen without leaving a greasy feel. It does a good job hiding existing scuffs and/or making it easy to wipe off future scuffs.
  18. You can apply ceramic after the two step correction. Finish polish may not be necessary, as the coating prep spray should clean the correcting polish residue off, which is primarily what the finish polish will do on a new vehicle. I would not apply coating over wax, as you want the coating to bond directly to the clear coat, and not have anything in between. The coating prep spray will likely remove it anyway. It is also a good idea to strip wash the car before your correct, so that you are not removing wax with your correcting and polishing pads.
  19. Don’t apply ceramic coating in poor lighting and don’t use a dozen sprays of Ceramic Boost per panel after your coating cures!
  20. Lee, You can polish after clay, without doing a wash in between. If this is your first time using clay, just take your time and use plenty of Detail Spray. You will be surprised at how good this step alone makes the car look. Good luck!
  21. After coating my car with Adam’s Paint Coating, I am not enthused by Ceramic Boost. Admittedly, I likely used too much on the first application after coating. I found it difficult to work with, even though I waited 24 hours before applying the Boost. After touching up a couple of high spots and streaky spots with BG and finish polish, I used very light sprays of the Boost. It still leaves some streaks and is more difficult than other products to remove. My thought is that this is one Adam’s product where it takes a lot of wiping with a MF to get it off. It is tacky on the MF towel when wiping. That would make it seem more likely to introduce scratches with dust and/or working the towel. I am wondering what others think of Ceramic Boost, as I have yet use it in a maintenance capacity following washes. EDIT: Sorry for the duplicative post as Cedric asked a similar questions below. There is good info for me in that thread and I should have added to that.
  22. EDIT: Dan@Adams indicated via chat today that I may have received the new formula, even though it shipped about a month ago. I just checked my bottle, and I did apply the new 9H formula. Here is a write up of my recent ceramic coating experience. I spent multiple days working on it, as others have shared. I started with a car that won its class at a car show based on “Show and Shine” the prior weekend, so I started with a pretty clean car. Even with that, I did a full detail and spent many hours on prep work. I will try to share some tips throughout that may help others - most of which I received or read here in the forums. I am relatively new to detailing, and not a professional. Day 1 - Rinsed car, foamed, rinsed, then did the 2 bucket wash with CS. Dried using great white drying towels. Clayed using DS and Visco Clay. I used a liberal amount of DS and really took my time hitting all painted surfaces. The car had fine scratches in the clear coat that were difficult to see in sunlight, but could be seen with bad garage lighting (more on the lighting later). Therefore, I used the SK Mini with orange pad and orange correcting polish over the whole car, after doing a test in a small area. The SK mini is awesome, and much easier to use in the tight areas of a C7. I had to perform 2 passes on a couple of areas to completely correct the finish. I would say this did about a 97% correction. I can still find a few very fine and shallow scratches in certain light, but the correction is pretty solid. I did this in the garage with the door closed (to minimize dust) with two overhead household light bulbs - evening and night. Not ideal lighting to say the least. These steps took 4-5 hours total. Day 2 - Checked the car over one more time for correction quality. I actually did one more pass on an area on the hood. I then got ready to coat. Per advice here on the forum, I decided to use Coating Prep spray on a section of the car, then coat, then spray prep, then coat, and so on. I did this to minimize dust, and specifically pollen as it is in season right now and difficult to keep off the car. I would suggest to others without a dust/pollen issue just to use coating prep spray on the whole car, and be thorough. I feel like doing a section, then coating almost caused me to miss the coating prep on a section or two as I got interrupted or distracted. I used the rubber gloves and started working in small 2x2 areas as suggested in the videos. I put four or five drops on the applicator at a time. My lighting was so poor, and my car is a dark metallic gray, that I never saw a rainbow effect. Another reason I may not have seen a rainbow effect quickly is that this was the new formula which allows for more time to wipe off. I didn’t know that at the time I applied it, I just waited 30-40 seconds then wiped off the coating. I did touch the surface once to see if it was tacky. I wiped that area off, but I actually left a fingerprint in the coating! If I had personal advice here, it would be to follow what others have said and use a couple of MF towels and be thorough knocking it down and removing the residue. Lighting played a role in me not leveling a couple of areas evenly. I did get greedy on some areas and tried to do a couple of larger sections - not a great idea as the residue was a little more difficult to remove in that case. Anywhere I got coating on the glass or vinyl stripes, I simply wiped them off immediately - no issues. This process took a few hours. Day 3 - After 24 hours, I applied Ceramic Boost. I followed what I saw on the videos, where Adam sprayed the small area a few sprays. Too much Ceramic Boost is a problem. It is not the easiest stuff to work with and leaves streaks when over used. Shane here on the forums in another thread gave advice to use one or two sprays per panel - I totally agree with that. I used too much and made my life difficult. I was very happy with the results, but had not pulled the car out of the garage yet during the day to inspect in better light. Day 4 - drove the car to work, and immediately noticed high spots and streaks in the coating, and found the fingerprint in the coating I mentioned above. I will say that BG is now one of my favorite Adam’s products. Based on advice here, and on the theory of using the least abrasive first to fix something, I used BG on several streaks and what appeared to be high spots on section overlaps, and a few spots that I just missed taking off the residue. It did a great job. On two or three other small spots I used the SK mini with a very small amount of Finish Polish and almost no pressure on the machine. This removed the finger print and a couple of other high spots with no problem. My one big bit of advice would be to use excellent lighting when doing this. If I had better lighting, I could have saved some after the fact work and done a better job the first time through. All in all, I am very happy with the results.
  23. I am looking to put ceramic coating on a 2017 Corvette. It is a car I take to shows, but also drive about 8,000 miles per year. Not a daily driver, but a fair amount of use. Since I drive it a lot, I wash it a lot. Therefore, I am looking to put the coating on, so the exterior detailing will go faster ahead of shows. Here is my question: Is GM clear coat on a Corvette hard or soft, thick or thin? Despite being new, I can see some fine scratches or swirls in the clear coat. I can only see them in certain indoor lighting. I would obvously like to correct these before I put a coating on. I have tried the correcting polish with the orange pad on a test area, and that does not get rid of them. That was with 2 passes, working the product until it flashed, using a cross hatch patttern and working the machine from slower speed to a higher speed. The fact that it did not fully correct very hard to find swirls kind of surprised my. Before I hit a fairly new car with the heavy correcting compound, or even the MF cutting pad, I am wondering if I have room for error, or if it is really thin and soft. The color is a dark metallic gray, known by GM as Watkins Glen Gray. Thanks in advance, Todd
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