kaj41354

I tried graphene VRT and it looks a little better.  I may just add more coats.  I thought about tire armor, but I read in a different thread thet when that fails it cracks and I thought that would be a pain on such a large surface.

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Welcome from York PA Kevin

The only thing missing is the picture with the end results.

After reading all the reviews about the graphene ceramic products, I decided to give it a try, knowing that it is  semi-permanent. 

 When people say it takes time, it does if you want the job done correctly. 
I estimate I spent over 40 hours. 
(I am a fussy car owner, But it’s time with my thoughts). 
I would recommend you get the UV light as I put this in the garage, turned off the lights and used the UV light to inspect and went over spots that were missed, or light/streaked. 
some parts of the car flashed quickly well others didn’t. 
The bottom line is we’ll see how it does long term, but the shine, smoothness and glossiness  is freaking amazing!

These are the steps are used over a period of days:
I had to repeat a few steps as I was unable to finish before I got busy with other projects and work. 
 
Rinse car Soap suds Wash car Rinse Clay bar Wash Rinse Iron remover. Rinse Wash  Rinse Dry Compound (paint correction) Polish Paint prep Ceramic coat Buff Admire 

Plan on a long job but looks awesome when done !

Welcome to the forum Barry.  I'm like you.  If it gets even one degree over 40 I'm out there washing.  Winter here in PA was pretty non existent until last week, now it's 10* and the wind chill is below zero.  Winter sucks.  

1. The temperature and humidity are going to dictate the flash time.  You will have to figure that out.  Apply to a certain area and time it. The coating rainbows so when it starting to dissipate that is when you want to get it off.  Longer than that and it will be more difficult to remove.  
 
2. Wash, dry, panel wipe and apply the coating.  
 
3. Yes.  You want to use a soap that contains no wax, ceramic or gloss enhancers.
 
 
The coating will give it a more rich appearance.  It will darken it but make it look richer but not glossy.  Here is a set of matte wheels to give you an idea.  
 
 
 
The enrichen look will last a long time.  Hard to say exactly how long as the climate is different for everyone. 
 
The coating needs 24 hours to cure.  After that you can drive it. 
 
 
I prefer low nap pile microfiber towels.  I use 300gsm edgless towel from a well known towel company.  I find them to work better than a suede towel and super plush towel.  Again personal preference. 
 
 
The coating can get wet after 24 hours.  

Can? Yes. But should? As a polish, it probably won't make much difference beyond the most minor of defects or oxidation.  It's designed to be used with the One Step Pad and a machine polisher. The abrasives need to be broken down completely to get the best results.
 
To be certain, you aren't confusing polish with wax, right? Sometimes terms in the detail world are used interchangeably, so I don't want to misunderstand what you're asking...

I always had good luck using our TAR and a plastic razor blade. 
 
https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-tar?_pos=1&_sid=c2cc113bf&_ss=r

1. Yes you can use it on the wheels.  Should?  Well that is going to depend on if you want to do it or not.  At a minimum the face of the wheels if you don't want to take them off. 
 
2. After the PPF has been installed.  

Thank you 

Welcome to the forum Michael!  Suburban looks great!

Welcome Back Matt

Going to chime in here...
 
The Graphene products are some of the best I have ever used. Adams or otherwise. One thing I feel Adams does better than its competitors is product families. The Graphene product family is something special, though. The amount of thought that went into this product stack to make it both appealing and effective is noteworthy. Really fantastic job, Adams.
 
The Graphene coating is the coup de grace, though. From the UV reactive agent to the performance of the coating to the ease of use - unbelievably great work. Contaminants literally fall off my vehicle. 
The Graphene detail spray is PERFECT. I mainly use it as a drying agent. The level of slickness is crazy. I drive a lot and my vehicle sits in the sun. I live in farm country and the bugs are out in full force this time of year. After letting my car sit in direct sun all day, I grabbed a single soft and some Graphene Detail Spray and in one wipe removed baked-on bug guts. That's NUTS. Insane. And awesome. 
 
In my eyes, the Graphene experience really needs to start with the Graphene Ceramic Coating. Then by using the Graphene Shampoo and Graphene Detail Spray, I can maintain the coating. 
 
Whomever is experiencing issues with these products needs to evaluate how they're using them, maybe? One aspect of the Graphene product stack that confused me just a little is Graphene Detail Spray and Graphene Spray Coating. I know they're not the same, but they are so similarly named I wonder if some people get confused and buy the detail spray expecting to get a coating that lasts 3-6 months.  I don't know if there is enough differentiation between them in the marketing materials and packaging. 
 
Regardless, I LOVE the Graphene products. Nice work, Adams team!

Great looking Bowtie Dan!

Another pic Michael....

The weekend brought a few vehicles to keep me occupied.   First up was a Toyota Yaris and if it wasn't for the decal on the back, I probably wouldn't not have done much with it.  Being that it came from Green Bay and is also red, I couldn't help myself.  The paint itself is not on the best shape and in places the clear coat is failing.  It got cleaned up and the important thing was the head lights which needed restoration.  As you'll be able to see in the 3rd picture the clean coat is gone on the roof of the car.  As the owner says, it is paid for, it runs good, gets good mileage and hasn't required any maintenance beyond oil changes, tires and breaks.
 
 
The second vehicle was a Can-Am - the details are below the Toyota pictures.
 
 

 
Can-AM:
While I have been able to do multiple bikes, this was the first Can-Am.  Compared to a bike with an exposed engine, this was a bit easier.  However, there are are so many body panels and of every shape and design that it takes bit to got them all.  There are multiple types of panels from painted, to gloss, matt and standard trim.  It took me a while to figure out what order to attack things, but once I got rolling, it came together rather well.
 
The first picture shows the different types of parts and materials that are on the Can-Am.  The second picture shows the entire bike.
 
The owner of the Can-Am was pleased with the way it came out and hopefully he'll bring me his Supra to do. 

Welcome terry!  Sweet ride.  Enjoy 

Wow!  Great looking cars, I hope your neighbors were wearing sunglasses....These 2 may have blinded them!

Welcome Timothi

I can't speak for RV's but, my 52 Chevy was heavily oxidized (it is Black) and the pain was the original.  I stayed with the white foam but mixed the polish with compound  (it's in a video somewhere).  Very light pressure and made more passes than I did on other cars.  It did amazing. 

If it makes you feel any better, I'm 74   and didn't start using a polisher until around 10 years ago.  Started with a Porter Cable which killed my shoulder, and then switched to the Swirl Killer polishers and that's all I use now.  I do very little hand polishing now...........one black car, one white car, and both get the full treatments.  Go for it! 

i had to step in here because this is a common misconception.  A Virus is not a living organism, which means it cannot be "killed".  A virus is an inert molecule until it comes in contact with a "host" cell, then it attaches and does its thing.  What you need to do to a virus to render it harmless is to treat it in a way that keeps it from being able to attach to a host cell.