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cwp2016nd last won the day on October 23 2018

cwp2016nd had the most liked content!

About cwp2016nd

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    Experienced Detailer


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    Long Island, NY
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  1. Day job is being a parts manager at Shafiroff Racing Side gig is detailing at Detail Demon
  2. A toilet brush is probably your best bet honestly. For my super low profile wheel arches I use an EZ detail brush. Long, soft nylon bristles reach the plastic. The wand is also able to bend so it helps me a lot. I use the ez detail jr for door jambs and such too...
  3. I use Adams fender brush paired with a concentrated non-Adam's APC diluted 5:1 which is pretty strong to be honest. I usually hose it down first, let it dry most of the way and then spray/soak with the APC. I will go in with the fender brush after that and agitate. Once I rinse everything down I don't see issues with residue in the wheel wells. Once I was done I dressed it with an aerosol trim dressing similar to Adam's in and out spray.
  4. I bought the blanket last year for my mother as a random gift. Its is hands down her favorite blanket. Its super soft and very heavy. It keeps you extremely warm if that is your thing per say. It should last forever lol. Quality is amazing and it is expensive but worth it if you want a triple throw down blanket.
  5. I use a highly concentrated APC for interiors such as that one. I dilute it 10:1 for interior work and use a spritz of a 6:1 dilution for heavier staining if the 10:1 didn't cut it. You can also use a magic eraser ever so lightly to remove those marks.
  6. The only competitor I am aware of is Ammo Hydrate. The original formula was water activated just like G&G. It was recently re-formulated to be used in the dry as well (Feburary 2018ish).
  7. This past wash I did a quick iron decon (live next to train tracks, I chemically decon every 3 months or so) and sprayed my wheels while I was at it. When I got around to rinsing the entire car off the wheels were 85% clean after just the rinse off. They weren't washed for 2 weeks at that point. It works just fine is my point. For the agitation part of cleaning your wheels, after a pre-treatment of the iron remover you can just use soap and water mixed in a spray bottle for some lubrication as the iron remover doesn't have much to offer (wasn't designed for cleaning wheels).
  8. When it starts getting cold out I don't worry myself too much with the thoughts of stripping my sealant for the fact I use a drying aid every wash in the winter. If I happen to use APC before-hand to help remove caked on grime and it began to degrade my sealant, no biggie. I add spray wax (non Adam's) to the panel when drying which should provide another 2-3 weeks of protection which is longer than I go for maintenance washes. Once it is spring/summer I don't use APC often because I don't have that caked on grime on the vehicle.
  9. I've done it many times. A better solution would be to spray the panel down with your APC and THEN rinse it down at the pay and spray. The stuck on crud will come off much easier that way in my experience.
  10. I try hard to get into Matt's channel, I really do. There's something about him that doesn't quite click with me. I love the content that he provides but there's something else I don't like. Pan seems like a really nice and cool guy. I'm hoping to go to SEMA next year and who knows, maybe I'll bump into him and say hello.
  11. My last reply on this subject, but if you go to the 1:32 mark of the video above you can clearly see the dirt sitting on the raised pockets, not going into the recessed ones like is stated. A plush microfiber will give you more surface area and more space for the dirt to travel (into the long fibers). I have learned to experiment with certain things and not always take someone's word for gold. When you experiment, you learn and gain wisdom
  12. Having only done a waterless wash on my vehicle a few times (rinseless is my go-to) I can say I don't feel 100% comfortable using the "waterless wash towel" on my paint. I've heard a very knowledgeable detailer say "If you feel like you're scratching the pain, you probably are". And I can't help but to get that feeling using the waffle weave towel. However, I think they make good glass towels and I prefer the borderless grey style towel (480-500gsm, long nap plush towel) over a waffle weave for this scenario. The dirt has somewhere to go "up" into with the longer nap. I won't get into it much more but a 500gsm towel is my go-to for rinseless or waterless washing any time.
  13. So in the future, I would say a borderless grey towel would work better to hide the stains since it bothers you. The first time I tried Guard and Gloss my double softs got stained. It is what it is unfortunately. Still performs the same but I feel your pain on wanting to keep the color white.
  14. Take your time and if possible, have someone there with you to periodically spritz water onto the glass. The glass polish has a tendency to dry up since you're creating so much heat. Even though the product dried up doesn't mean the abrasives aren't there. The water will allow the abrasives to do more work. It takes some patience to do but should make your glass better than it is now.
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