Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

Hi Pete! Welcome to the forums! That ride looks awesome! Sorry about shipping to Norway. I'm not sure if it would help, but I know there's a dealer in the UK. I would imagine shipping would be more affordable from there, but I can't know for sure.

Thank you, sir

Thank you, sir. I appreciate it very much. I'm very close to clicking the purchase button. One question, have you figured out a way to mobilize it on casters or anything? I know the manufacturer sells casters that would fit in the bottom, but I've seen peole reporting issues with them. I was have some bucket caddies, and it doesn't look like vacuum would fit in one of those, but I'm hoping I'm wrong about that. That would be a convenient solution.

Hi Mark, @Mongosg8 funny you say that. That’s exactly the one I’m looking at right now. I’ve had my eyes set on that one for several months now. Glad to hear you’re enjoying your use with it! are you also getting rid of it?

I know it’s a long shot - but does anybody have a newish high water lift vacuum that they’re trying to get rid of? I have Adams chemicals or tools or I have other things or I would consider including cash.

That's great. What else did they go over on that Facebook Live?

I wonder if we'll be seeing a graphene detailer here soon. I'd be interested in that...

Awesome looking stuff sending you a pm

Agreed here. Wetsanding would most likely be whats needed to fully remove these deep scratches as a last resort before a body shop. I've started spot sanding a bit and have pretty much stuck to 3,000 grit with pretty good results. Dave (or anybody), do you have a preferred sand paper? or any to stay away from? I've mainly been using 3m papers, but to be honest they're starting to get pricey.

Adam's Car Scratch & Swirl Remover Hand Correction System | Remove & Restore Paint Transfer, Minor Imperfections, Oxidation | Paired with Orange Compound Correction Pad Applicator (2 Step Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08464LFPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6xDvEb33985G9 Just in case you’re having trouble finding revive hand polish. This is a new system for hand polishing.

Shane thanks for taking the time to answer. I also want to say how I appreciate how much input you leave on the forums as a whole. It is very helpful. Okay perfect. So do you still apply their Seal Act Blending solution after every layer to fill the scratch? Or do you just apply the paint and layer the paint up all the way? How much time do you leave for the paint to dry between each layer? And have you ever had any issues applying a ceramic coating over top of the touch up?

Hey Jake, do you have the PF22? If so, you could just swap out the bottle for one with the bigger base.

Hello friends. I have a new project coming up soon. The owner of a 2007 Black Toyota Tundra has asked me to do a full restoration on the truck. He also asked me to try to address a key scratch that he has on the paint. I normally wouldn't offer touch up paint services, but the owner here has acknowledged that he doesn't expect a perfect outcome, but just for it to look better. I accepted the challenge partially because I wanted the experience and to at least try and see if I can help him. I have seen several referrals on here to Dr. Color Chip... I have looked into using either them (Dr. Color Chip) or just a factory paint pen from the dealership. I have extra tools and brushes to fit tighter spaces as needed. Anyways, while I start to plan my process, I have a few questions. - For those that have used Dr. Color Chip, what are some experiences you've had? Anything I should look out for? Do you know of any quirks or anything? I'm also going to apply a Ceramic Coating, will there be a cure time that is going hinder me from that application?-The website claims the products to be fast drying. - On Dr. Color Chip's website, their recommended process is backwards to what I was picturing - They recommend Polishing prior to applying the Touch Up Paint. I'll share the process I have been planning, I would love any input: - After Wash and Decon, I plan on cleaning out the scratch with IPA, and then doing a very very light wetsand on the edges of the scratch to create a rough surface for the paint to stick to. - Then I would apply the paint to fill the scratch and to mound up farther than the existing painted surface. - Then once the paint is dry, I plan on going back and wetsanding/polishing as needed to create a flat surface and remove the mounding that I created. Also to remove any defects that may have been introduced throughout the process. - Then following up with a Ceramic Coating. I understand the only real answer to address this is to respray, but the owner and I both have the understanding that this is just in hope to make it look better than before. Just want to help him out. I'll update with the picture I have.

Unfortunately I also get some streaky results with boost. Here's a few notes I've come up with when using Ceramic Boost: - as @BRZN said, try spraying into the towel that way you have more control over where the product is being applied. - Use less product than you think - Try using 1-2 sprays per panel, I find that sometimes, that will be enough to cover a full Door. If you find that you need more, only then spray more. - Keep out of direct sun - Work fast - If I notice streaks directly after I apply CB (Like 5-10 minutes after), and I cant get them out with a towel or by applying more boost, I have had luck with Brilliant Glaze. - If it's been more than 5-10 minutes when I notice the streaks, I've had luck with Revive Hand Polish, otherwise, Polishing is the only sure way to get them out. - I always have at least 4 clean and dry microfibers at my disposal - This is probably due to my first few times of only using 1-2 towels and spraying entirely too much product. Since then I've changed my process and started using less product, but I always am ready with extra towels. Sometimes I need all 4. Sometimes I only need 2. If I'm applying with the wet application, I will surely go through 4 towels. If I'm applying dry, then I may only need the 2. If you're wiping and you notice your towel is still leaving a little bit of water along the edge, that means it's too saturated with water and/or product, and the towel needs to be flipped to another, dry side. If you can't find a dry side or a side that won't leave that little bit of moisture, then it's time to get a different clean and dry towel and that should do the trick. ^^ All this is to say that there's not necessarily a right answer; the process I use is dependent on the environment and other variables. It sounds like I am about to step into the ring against Ceramic Boost. Let me say that I am not, I would say I'm in CB's corner. I think the product is very good and very effective. It leaves an amazing finish, and has great protection! I'm just sharing that it took me a second to figure out how to get the results I wanted.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-rinseless-car-wash You can use this in your bucket with some microfiber towels. I love rinseless wash especially in the winter or on days when I only have 30 minutes or so to do a wash. Works well, and is best for lightly dirty surfaces. If your car is very soiled, definitely opt for the full traditional 2 bucket wash method.