Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400

Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin last won the day on July 9

Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin had the most liked content!


About Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

  • Rank
    Master AF Detailer
  • Birthday 08/12/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Making things look better than new.


  • Bio
    Miss Tameka's Owner
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Land Planning
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

234 profile views
  1. To answer your question, yes it would have been good!
  2. Good question. That's another debated topic. lol. I tend to rinse after a decontamination. I normally do the decon right after I have finished washing (without drying). So to put it chronologically: Wash Iron Remover Clay (with DS) Rinse Dry Revive Hand Polish I don't know if there's a "right" answer. This is just a process that I'm comfortable with and works for me. You may find that you prefer a different process.
  3. Welcome Skip! You came to the right place. I know you say you're not a detailer, but man it sure sounds like you are - You've already started thinking of how to best decontaminate and protect your finish! and If you're not a detailer, my advise is prepare to become one... you may become addicted to the Adam's shine. Your plan sounds pretty good. A few small things: I would use Iron Remover before the clay stage, this will help dissolve some of the metallic particles in your paint that you may have trouble getting with a clay bar. (If you have Wheel Cleaner, I heard you can dilute it 1:1, and it will suffice for this chemical decontamination) Another thing to consider is to look at the clay bar options. There are multiple. I use Visco Clay because I like it and I think it's easy to work with, but it may be more abrasive than some of the other options. Check out the Fine Grade Clay Bar to see if that's a good fit for you. I don't think you need to strip wash after the clay bar and, I would save Brilliant Glaze for last. I think Brilliant Glaze will affect the longevity of your Paint Sealant, so use the Paint sealant as your base of protection. Brilliant Glaze is amazing and will give you a lot of pop! <That's my opinion, others claim some good results when using Brilliant Glaze below Paint Selant. Also pro tip: use Brilliant GLaze on the interior of your windshield... You won't Regret it! In the future washes, you will want to use Car Shampoo or if you have a foam cannon, I recommend Mega Foam Shampoo. If you reuse Strip Wash it will remove all the protection you worked so hard to apply. And then yes, I think you'll love H20 G&G it's an amazing product.
  4. Ive read that people will apply two coats of Ceramic Coating, so it's not unheard of. I just don't know the specifics of how, and if your situation should be treated any differently.
  5. Interesting, are you using Ceramic Spray Coating? Or are you using the traditional Ceramic Coating? If you're using Ceramic Spray, I think that would be fine. I'm hesitant to give you an answer with the traditional coating since I'm not 100% sure. I think both options would be fine to have a second coat, but I would see if @RayS or @Chris@Adams or @falcaineer can give you any input. I haven't done a full second coat, so I'm not sure if there's any special steps involved, since, I guess you wouldn't want to use Surface Prep, right?
  6. Yes absolutely. I would recommend using the Iron Remover (or you can use Wheel CLeaner diluted 1:1, I hear), and then going over the whole vehicle's paint and glass with a clay bar at a minimum. Remember never to use your clay bar dry but use a clay lube. You can use Detail Spray which is Adam's way of using a clay lube or use some diluted Car Shampoo or Rinseless wash in water. And then you may want to use a Surface Prep to get naked paint before laying down your Paint Sealant.
  7. Always try to work on a clean surface. You don't want to drag dust and dirt on your finish. It's hard to tell what is coating coul dhave been removed if you don't remember polishing those spots specifically. One way to tell is by hydrophobics. If you spray or pour water on your car and there are spots that are not quite beading water up and shedding it off quickly, that is a good indication that your coating in that spot is at least worn down if not completely gone.
  8. I normally just seal by hand. It's really not difficult at all. I use a cross hatch pattern to ensure coverage, and then it's one of the easiest products in my experience to wipe off. With Brilliant Glaze, It's awesome. It really is - just understand that it is not meant to last a long time. Like a few days at most. I would not use it under the paint sealant, It would affect the durability of the paint sealant (regularly 5-8 months). So instead, I would apply your paint sealant first as your base protection, and then apply Brilliant glaze ontop of the sealant anytime! It's a fun thing to apply whenever you really want to bring a pretty mind blowing shine to your vehicle. I also love to use it on the inside of my windshield. <<< You don't know true windshield clarity until you do this. Not sure how it would work under HGG either. I have used BG on top of HGG and it beautiful!
  9. If the is chrome with the water spots, then I ask if you have tried using a clay bar. I’ve been successful removing minor water spots with a clay bar. And then would probably try to use Revive Hand Polish with the blue hex grip foam applicator pad. That combo has been successful for me when removing pretty minor stuff and I would still try that first before moving onto a stronger polish.
  10. I agree with both of you. The leather and interior cleaner is good and cleans well, never had any issues with it. but when the new all purpose interior cleaning gel showed up I got a bottle to try it, and it was great. It felt like they had taken something that was already good and improved it. It cleaned easier meaning it takes me less effort to achieve a clean surface.
  11. Welcome John! This is a great place to learn and get some tips!
  12. If you're checking inside, try checking it outside when the sun is a little bit lower in the sky (maybe around 7pm ish during these summer days). I notice that if I walk around my vehicle at that time, and really focus on whats in the reflection of my paint I can see the really minor defects. Also it may be difficult to catch in a picture, I've never tried. If you can't take it outside because Georgia's a storm breeding ground, then try shining a flashlight (LED works well) pointed a little bit towards you and try and focus on whatever is in the reflection. See how they did it in the picture below, they are pointing the light a bit towards themselves and looking in the reflection around the light, you can see the defects pretty clearly (comes from https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-swirl-finder-flashlight ). In the picture you'll see farther down, the guy has taken a picture of the reflection of the sun, and you can see the defects around the light. Finishing Polish is the least abrasive of the 3 polishes. So, in short, yes that's likely the only think you'll have to do. Make sure to try a test section - Like a 2x2 section on your hood works well (if you mark the section with painters tape, your results can be as clear as the picture from google below), and then see if you're happy with the results. If after you have done your 2x2 section , you think you need something more aggressive, try using the Correction Polish and an Orange Pad. From what you're saying, your paint sounds like it's in great condition and only using Finishing Polish with the White Pad will be perfect! There's a lot of variables in polishing, but my best guess is that finishing polish will leave your paint looking better than new (not exaggerating)! Remember to take your time, enjoy the process, and feel free to ask any more questions! That's a great question, and I think I understand what you're asking! My simple answer is that if you're going to drive the vehicle on the road again, then the wheels will become contaminated. If it just sits in the garage and you move it out onto the driveway to do your strip washing, it should be fine. Originally, when @GXPaycheck suggested that (great suggestion by the way), I was going to recommend you add protection to the wheels, but if you're gonna follow up later with strip wash, then the protection would be removed. Does that make sense? Let me know if I misunderstood the question.
  13. This doesn’t moisturize leather, right? ive used the paste and I love it! But in theory do we need to still use LC or something else to moisturize the leather and layer this on top?
  • Create New...