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Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

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Everything posted by Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

  1. Thank you. when you say cleaner/wax what product do you mean by that?
  2. I'm planning on detailing my brothers old car. It's a neglected 2001 Rav4, and the paint on the roof, hood, and other horizontal parts all have severe clearcoat failure. Hood is pretty much completely covered in [what I believe is] peeling clearcoat. Don't currently have pictures, trying to acquire some to post to show the damage. I think I remember @RayS doing a write up on a truck that had some pretty bad failure on the hood which resembled the damage of which I'm talking about. I think I also remember noting that Ray only washed the portion of the car with bad damage and then he didn't touch it after washing. I know a repaint is required, and my goal for this detail is not to "fix" the damage. I was more curious if it's a bad idea to try and protect the damaged paint with a wax or sealant or ceramic spray coating. Or should I just wash and leave it alone? Will try to update with pictures, but I would appreciate any recommendations or thoughts on this. Thanks.
  3. Hi Andrew, and Welcome! Yes you are correct. You would want the Ceramic Spray Coating to be your base layer as it will bond with your clearcoat. Make sure to take proper prep steps before the ceramic spray coating. You need to decontaminate with iron remover and clay bar, polish as desired, and use surface prep to remove anything that may be left on the paint to expose bare clearcoat/paint. Once you've done that you can apply ceramic spray coating. After the Ceramic spray coating cures, that's the time to apply Ceramic Paste Wax.
  4. Welcome to the Forum Clint! What ride are you keeping shiny? We love pictures on here.
  5. Here's a chart I found on amazon. Not sure which is correct. The Website and this chart say Ceramic Waterless Wash has 10%, but on the label on the bottle it says 7%. Ceramic Paste Wax, which I'm not totally sure, but may be a thing of the past had 35% according to this chart, but the new Ceramic Coating Wax on the website is stated to have 30%. Whatever the SiO2 content, Cermaic Boost, Ceramic Wax, Wash+Coat, and Ceramic Waterless are some of the best products I've used.
  6. Yeah this is the new coating, and for some reason it hasn't really been a big focal point that it's meant for trim coating as well. Anyways I love the Ceramic Spray Coating as well. You can use that on everything including your glass. I plan on using the UV paint coating as a base, on paint and trim and following up with Ceramic Spray Coating on all parts of the vehicle.
  7. The below is from the product details and FAQ's for the new UV coating (It states instructions for plastic and trim) “What can I use this on? Can I just use this on the whole car?”Adam’s UV Ceramic Paint Coating provides protection to an extreme range of areas on your vehicle. Painted surfaces, Trim, Bed Rail Covers, Plastic Engine Bay Components,Headlights, Bed liners, Tonneau covers, Canvas tops, Floor mats— All are safe to be protected. For Use on Paint: Step 1: Remove the 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and supplied Towel and fold towel into fourths. Prepare your paint and use the supplied 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and Surface Prep towel to clean and degrease the surface of any existing protection or residual films. Spritz each surface with a direct spray and once into the towel to optimally clean the surface. For optimal results, users must Wash, Clay/Decontaminate, and Polish their paint for best results. Step 2: Remove the supplied UV Ceramic Paint Coating bottle from the packaging and the pair of supplied gloves. With the gloves on, open and begin to dispense the coating onto the supplied Micro Silk applicator and begin the coating process. Begin to work the product into the surface, ensuring full coverage over the desired area. Cross hatching motions are favored during this process and overlapping your previous pass by 50%. During your time between passes, utilize Adam’s UV Handheld light for inspections. Take note of between the body lines, bumper areas, mirror caps, and commonly missed areas on your vehicle. To ensure a thorough application, the light should shine and reveal an even and consistent bluish hue of light. If you notice streaking in the surfaces, level out with additional product and the used Micro Silk applicator. Step 3: To begin the removal process, remove 1 of the supplied coating removal towels from the packaging and fold the towel into fourths. Begin wiping the coating and applying minimal pressure to the towel. Once fully removed, allow the coating to fully cure for 24 hours, free from elements or weathering. Not allowing optimal time will force the coating to cure with whatever elements touches it during the curing process. Once fully cured, you’re free to enjoy the open road and have coated, perfected paint no matter how harsh the conditions. Step 4 (Optional): To give your coating that extra pop after application, spray Adam’s Ceramic Boost to the coating to top the coating with an added layer of silica enhancement. Apply as needed. For Use on Plastic & Trim: Step 1: Remove the 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and supplied Edgeless Utility Towel and fold towel into fourths. Prepare your trim and use the supplied 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and edgeless utility towel to clean and degrease the surface of any existing protection or residual films. Spritz each surface with a direct spray and once into the towel to optimally clean the surface. For heavily contaminated trim and plastic, we recommend a deep cleanse with Tire & Rubber Cleaner and an edgeless utility towel. Step 2: Remove the supplied UV Ceramic Paint Coating bottle from the packaging and the pair of supplied gloves. With the gloves on, open and open the bottle and begin dispensing the chemical onto the supplied micro silk applicator to begin the coating process. Begin to work the product into the surface, ensuring full coverage over the desired area. Since the product is being applied to a porous plastic surface, you will not see a rainbow/ flashing effect— the immediate color change of the plastic or trim will reveal where the product has been applied. Step 3: Allow coating to fully cure for 1-2 hours, free from elements or weathering. Not allowing optimal time will force the coating to cure with whatever elements touches it during the curing process. Once cured, you’re free to enjoy the open road and have clean, dressed plastic & trim no matter how harsh the conditions.
  8. Iron remover was my next suggestion although I’m not sure
  9. Matt, check on Amazon. There’s a lot of products that are boho. Go search something and look under the options of what size you can get and a lot of them have the option of bogo.
  10. My first thought was waterless wash. I like to use a diluted Eco APC or something of that nature, since my countertops are nothing fancy. ANd I like to use something with some strength to cut throught the build up of whatever I may do on those counter tops. I know a lot of people with like nicer granite or other counter tops that have those coated or sealed. In which case waterless wash would be a great option to not strip that sealant. plus it's just a great overall product.
  11. Hi, @falcaineer I was curious where the one step fits. the Compound seems to be doing about what I would expect from the one step seeing as it's going to finish down better than CP.
  12. Hey welcome to the forum! congrats on the new ride! You have any more pictures? Have you thought about trying bug remover or a diluted all purpose cleaner? If it’s just something stick to the paint I’ve had luck with a diluted apc. Just make sure to not let it sit too long. Like 10 seconds max. Clay bar is another good option.
  13. Happy Thanksgiving ! Excited and grateful to be a part of this community
  14. So, Sorry for my ignorance, but how do these cool floors work? Are they just there to be decorative? They look great for sure, but looking closely they seem to be intentionally pervious, does that mean they used for drainage? Here's what I'm picturing in my head, some how, there was a drainage pipe installed in the concrete of the garage; then, there was waterproofing and a drainage mat laid on the garage concrete; and, these tiles go ontop of that. Am I crazy?
  15. Awesome. thanks Shane. I have been interested in extractors too. but from what I can tell it seems like it may be smarter to start with a steamer. Would you agree with that?
  16. Shane, seeing your use of a steamer is something that really interests me. I'd love to see how you use it on an engine bay, or when you use it on an exterior. I have been debating getting a small household type steamer and using it on the vehicles. However, seeing as I rarely get detailing customers and our vehicles are somewhat well maintained, I have postponed that. Ray, that's a good observation. I've noticed it too with my wife's car. I think the use of make up also can add to the discoloration. Shane and Michael have provided good options for trying to attack those. I've had very very good luck with the All Purpose Interior Cleaning Gel - I also like to dilute this one and use it with care. I think it's becoming my favorite cleaner for everything right now. I use it in the house, on shoes, on clothes if I have trouble with a stain, and in the car.
  17. Like @shane@detailedreflections said, it could have been from hard water in your water supply. It could also have been from the rain. It's pretty common for ceramic coatings to show waterspotting. There's a other factors that might be considered: How long ago did it rain? How long ago did you coat? Do you live on a dirt or gravel road? I found that it helps to have a bottle of Waterless Wash in my car and I'll give it a quick wipe down after it rains on the surfaces where water tends to sit.
  18. Hi tom, and Welcome to the Forum! I would recommend a clay bar also as @ObsessedDetailer suggested. I also believe that @Chris@Adams has suggested using the orange Correcting Polish and an orange HexGrip Foam Applicator by hand to hand polish the glass. Chris please correct me if I'm wrong.
  19. I'm in for this as well. I don't know, Adams... that's 2 from GA and 1 from SC, maybe it's time to relocate HQ down here. Maybe like in Athens, GA? I can do the site planning and permitting, no worries.
  20. Welcome, Rod! Nice Ride! We look forward to hearing from you. Let us know if you have any questions
  21. Hi Steve, Welcome to the forum. Agreed with the above. Waterless wash probably works better in my opinion. But if say you've left your vehicle in the garage for a week, and it gathered some dust, Detail spray should do just fine for that. If it's like fresh bird doo doo, I would definitely use waterless wash for that. And be sure to use discretion, if it's something that's been caked on or super dirty, you'll want to use water and a traditional two-bucket wash as your safest method.
  22. Hi Jack, I was wanting to pursue the same thing when I first was researching polishers. I was told that the Mini is not setup to do larger jobs as it has a tendency to produce a lot of heat. If I remember correctly, what happens is that heat will cause issues in the machine, particularly in the backing plate. It was designed for small areas and touch up correction. The SK 15 and 21 better heat regulated and are designed to tackle full corrections at a time. I just saw the SK 15 on amazon prime for under $200
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