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Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

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Everything posted by Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

  1. Hey Cheryl, Ultra Foam is a really cool product. I'm not sure what the process is that you use, but I'll share my process with you. I load up the foam cannon with 4ish ounces of Ultra Foam and water (warm if possible). and just have it ready for when its time to use it. I also have my buckets and wash mitts prepared with ultra foam shampoo or the regular car shampoo. I start by rinsing the paint with my pressure washer. Then I immediately plug in the foam cannon to my pressure washer and foam the car (the time sensitivity is to prevent water spots which occur by allowing water to sit on the paint until it dries). like you said let it sit for a few minutes. THis is supposed to help lift some of that dirt off of the paint. Some of it will need to be gently agitated with a wash mitt. Normally, I follow up the foam with a 2 bucket wash or another safe bucket wash method and with my wash mitt to lift the dirt off the surface. Then finish with a rinse and dry with a microfiber towel and H20 Guard and Gloss or Detail Spray (Depends on what my goal is for the wash) Ultra Foam has a bit of protection built into it, so that's a nice perk. For the Tires, I'll start off by saying its a good idea to do your wheel and tire cleaning prior to the rest of the car. This way you don't have to get water on the paint (for the same reason of preventing water spots). I absolutely love the Tire and Rubber Cleaner. Use it with the Tire Brush to agitate it. It turns orangey-brown as it cleans. I normally get the tires wet, then spray the Tire and Rubber cleaner onto the tire and onto the brush. Then agitate all around the tire. Then rinse. I normally repeat until the suds no longer orangey-brown, but turn white. That means the tire is clean! For an extra pop, after I've dried the vehicle, I'll apply Tire Shine or Tire Armor. These products will add some protection to the tire as well as make it look like it's new!
  2. @Dan@Adams, I did it through youtube, and it was way easier than I thought it would be. Thanks for the advise! Videos in this thread if you're interested: I think you can close this thread about posting videos if you find appropriate.
  3. I updated my posts with videos that should work okay. @SS LeadFoot I look forward to seeing your results, and how you did them!
  4. Yes completely agree. Ceramic Spray Coating is amazing. I am so excited to reapply it this fall. Great pics!
  5. I can try and translate some of these for you. APC - All Purpose Cleaner IAPC - Interior All Purpose Cleaning Gel NWC - New Wheel Cleaner (in other words just the regular wheel cleaner, they updated the formula a few months ago) TRC - Tire and Rubber Cleaner IR - Iron Remover UFS - Ultra Foam Shampoo DS - Detail spray TS - Tire Shine AGC - Adams Glass Cleaner VRT - VRT (stands for Vinyl Rubber and Trim I believe) ID - Interior Detailer LC - Leather Conditioner MFD - not sure about this one
  6. Welcome! Thanks for joining us! It’s a great place to learn and really just hangout and share common interests with homies.
  7. I've been having issues posting videos in the forums. I don't have a youtube channel or anything to link from. I just have .mov files that I want to upload. When I upload it presents them as a downloadable file in the post as opposed to something you can just click play on and watch within Adamsforums.com Is there a way for me to post videos to make it easier for people that may read my post?
  8. Thanks! Yeah, I'm gonna try to figure out how to post these videos without them being fussy. Not sure how to do that yet. Seth, if you haven't yet, you should really try this stuff on your vehicle. It's special.
  9. Update: see this video for the “before” of my old leather shoes. Also please let me know if anybody can help me to embed videos into the post so I don’t make everybody download. I have waited about 3.5 hours for the ceramic spray coating on the shoes to cure. On the leather, I used a sprayed directly on the shoes and used a towel to spread evenly. On the other shoes I used the same process as above, but used the towel more often for application since there were more plastic/smooth pieces as opposed to fabric. In appearance, the leather looks slightly enhanced. Not a lot but that’s probably because these are really worn down and the color is pretty faded to begin with. And on the Nike shoes, I saw no difference to the fabric material. But the soles and the plastic prices all came out looking very nicely. Hydrophobics are there. They weren’t totally impressive, but they’re certainly there and definitely better than nothing. I don’t think I trust this process to keep my feet totally dry (which was not exactly my goal, but just info for those that may be interested in that). In the video when I pour water onto the plastic pieces holding the laces, you can see some water get behind there and soak the fabric. So I realized I need to be more diligent about the application process. I need to take the laces off and make sure I am able to cover every part of the shoe with ceramic spray coating on order for this to be truly successful. Thoughts?
  10. So now that I’m done with my test, I realize I picked the wrong shoes for the test. I’ll explain later- i also learned a few things because I made a mistake haha so I used Ceramic Spray Coating on one old shoe and used the other as a “before”. these shoes are like 2.5 years old and I took them out recently right after I had cleaned them up, and they got all muddy in a surprise rain. anyway I started by trying to clean the dirt off the upper of the shoe with an interior brush. Then I used something comparable to a surface prep to clean and get the outsole as close to naked as possible. Then I sprayed Ceramic Spray Coating for coverage all over the upper and I sprayed directly onto the outsole. For the upper that’s all it took was letting the spray do it’s thing. For the sole and some of the smooth plastic pieces, I went over them with a towel to spread out the product (nothing special since I wasn’t worried about scratching paint). Once I was done I realize I forgot to wear gloves. You know, Like an idiot. So I spent the next 20 minutes washing my hands with dawn soap. I about broke out the compounds and polished my left hand off. Anyways, WEAR GLOVES. Eventually I remembered I had Adams Hand wash, that took care of my ceramic coated hand with ease. (Video: Shoe on left is uncoated. Shoe on right is coated) Have been having a hard time trying to embed the video so that nobody has to download it, they can just watch. Any tips on how I can do that? I mentioned this was the wrong shoe to do the test on. The reason being because it's made of a knit material, and therefore it's very permeable and porous. Differences in appearance may be that it made the red a little bit deeper, but it's hard to tell given the characteristics of the fabric already give it a darker look. The white is a little bit whiter, and the black pieces by the heel are definitely a deeper and nicer black. The feel of the fabric is pretty much the same, but the feel of the white sole is significantly smoother and slicker. You can see in the video that there are some hydrophobics especially compared to the uncoated shoe on the left. Ultimately the knit material will not stop water. The coating in the case of a shoe like this would be good for keeping dirt at bay and making the cleaning of this shoe easier, but it will not keep my feet dry. Given that I chose the wrong shoe, I am trying again today with some older leather shoes to see how they react to ceramic coating. I will update when the curing process is finished and I have seen hydrophobics. (Picture is showing how much product I used from this 8oz bottle. Probably about 1 oz for all 3 pairs of shoes... feels like a lot of product for not a lot of shoes)
  11. Thanks, Brandon! No, you answered my question. Here's what I under stood: You brush it when it starts to dust, unless you use the microfiber in which case can be more often because the fibers lay down easier.
  12. I was looking into getting an air compressor for several different uses including blowing out the pads between panels. How many pads do you go through for say an SUV? and how do you brush your pads out during the correction process?
  13. How well does the Pad Conditioning Brush work on Foam Pads? Seems like it would rip into the foam, doesn't it?
  14. Alright, I went for it today. I will update you throughout the day with pictures and stuff to see how it worked on my older shoes.
  15. I second both @RayS and @falcaineer Ray made some good suggestions regarding wax, and I also agree with the use of Clay, then Revive Hand Polish. Revive hand polish acts as a paint cleaner so you may be able to skip the surface prep step, and go straight to wax after Revive Hand Polish. I like to do the surface prep step anyways just to be sure there's nothing left on the paint before I apply the protection.
  16. Welcome Travis! Double black, Adam's should be able to help you keep that black paint in top shape
  17. Yeah, that was likely a professional grade coating. So I cannot speak to what your detailer used or what the requirements are for such coating. Adam's Coatings are consumer grade coatings, so that people like me can apply it ourselves. Many other companies also have consumer grade coatings. Every consumer grade ceramic coating I've looked into (Adam's and Every other company that I researched) requires maintenance with regular washes (ph neutral shampoo) and some sort of SiO2 spray. < I say that having done months and months of research to decide which ceramic coating I wanted to use on my vehicle.
  18. I've been heavily considering doing this. first trying it on some older shoes to see how it reacts. With leather or a smooth surface (non fabric), I would guess that you would apply it with a towel, not sure about going over it a second time with a towel. With a fabric or nappy surface, I would guess that application would be spraying for coverage and that's it. To be clear, I haven't attempted this yet, these were just my planning thoughts on how I would do it.
  19. @RayS is right, if they took this to automatic car washes and those used a harsh shampoo, that may explain why the ceramic may have been stripped. Not to mention it normally needs to be washed and replenished with something like Ceramic Boost. Excited to see your results!
  20. I think the Ceramic Paint Coating will last like 24 months, but I’m pretty sure that would require some maintenance and up keep. If it was neglected the yeah it’s likely that the coating may have been worn down or stripped at some point.
  21. I couldn't find the video you're talking about, I watched a few and wasn't able to find that. Whatever you do make sure you're being consistent with what it says on the bottle. Just for clarification, there's a Ceramic Liquid Wax (not a coating, and which has no cure time), there's a Ceramic Spray Coating, and a Ceramic Paint Coating. The latter two I mentioned in my previous comment. I'm not sure which Coating is the one you have, but here's some info from Adam's website: For Ceramic Spray Coating, If you read on the bottle, (look at the very top right of this picture, number 7) reads "allow 4 hours to cure" Click here for product page For Ceramic Paint Coating, the directions on the website read as follows: "Step 3: To begin the removal process, remove 1 of the supplied coating removal towels from the packaging and fold the towel into fourths. Begin wiping the coating and applying minimal pressure to the towel. Once fully removed, allow coating to fully cure for 24 hours, free from elements or weathering. Not allowing optimal time will force the coating to cure with whatever elements touches it during the curing process. Once cured, you’re free to enjoy the open road and have coated, perfected paint no matter how harsh the conditions." Click here for product page
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