Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

Hi Pete! Welcome to the forums! That ride looks awesome! Sorry about shipping to Norway. I'm not sure if it would help, but I know there's a dealer in the UK. I would imagine shipping would be more affordable from there, but I can't know for sure.

Thank you, sir

Thank you, sir. I appreciate it very much. I'm very close to clicking the purchase button. One question, have you figured out a way to mobilize it on casters or anything? I know the manufacturer sells casters that would fit in the bottom, but I've seen peole reporting issues with them. I was have some bucket caddies, and it doesn't look like vacuum would fit in one of those, but I'm hoping I'm wrong about that. That would be a convenient solution.

Hi Mark, @Mongosg8 funny you say that. That’s exactly the one I’m looking at right now. I’ve had my eyes set on that one for several months now. Glad to hear you’re enjoying your use with it! are you also getting rid of it?

I know it’s a long shot - but does anybody have a newish high water lift vacuum that they’re trying to get rid of? I have Adams chemicals or tools or I have other things or I would consider including cash.

That's great. What else did they go over on that Facebook Live?

I wonder if we'll be seeing a graphene detailer here soon. I'd be interested in that...

Awesome looking stuff sending you a pm

Agreed here. Wetsanding would most likely be whats needed to fully remove these deep scratches as a last resort before a body shop. I've started spot sanding a bit and have pretty much stuck to 3,000 grit with pretty good results. Dave (or anybody), do you have a preferred sand paper? or any to stay away from? I've mainly been using 3m papers, but to be honest they're starting to get pricey.

Adam's Car Scratch & Swirl Remover Hand Correction System | Remove & Restore Paint Transfer, Minor Imperfections, Oxidation | Paired with Orange Compound Correction Pad Applicator (2 Step Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08464LFPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6xDvEb33985G9 Just in case you’re having trouble finding revive hand polish. This is a new system for hand polishing.

Shane thanks for taking the time to answer. I also want to say how I appreciate how much input you leave on the forums as a whole. It is very helpful. Okay perfect. So do you still apply their Seal Act Blending solution after every layer to fill the scratch? Or do you just apply the paint and layer the paint up all the way? How much time do you leave for the paint to dry between each layer? And have you ever had any issues applying a ceramic coating over top of the touch up?

Hey Jake, do you have the PF22? If so, you could just swap out the bottle for one with the bigger base.

Hello friends. I have a new project coming up soon. The owner of a 2007 Black Toyota Tundra has asked me to do a full restoration on the truck. He also asked me to try to address a key scratch that he has on the paint. I normally wouldn't offer touch up paint services, but the owner here has acknowledged that he doesn't expect a perfect outcome, but just for it to look better. I accepted the challenge partially because I wanted the experience and to at least try and see if I can help him. I have seen several referrals on here to Dr. Color Chip... I have looked into using either them (Dr. Color Chip) or just a factory paint pen from the dealership. I have extra tools and brushes to fit tighter spaces as needed. Anyways, while I start to plan my process, I have a few questions. - For those that have used Dr. Color Chip, what are some experiences you've had? Anything I should look out for? Do you know of any quirks or anything? I'm also going to apply a Ceramic Coating, will there be a cure time that is going hinder me from that application?-The website claims the products to be fast drying. - On Dr. Color Chip's website, their recommended process is backwards to what I was picturing - They recommend Polishing prior to applying the Touch Up Paint. I'll share the process I have been planning, I would love any input: - After Wash and Decon, I plan on cleaning out the scratch with IPA, and then doing a very very light wetsand on the edges of the scratch to create a rough surface for the paint to stick to. - Then I would apply the paint to fill the scratch and to mound up farther than the existing painted surface. - Then once the paint is dry, I plan on going back and wetsanding/polishing as needed to create a flat surface and remove the mounding that I created. Also to remove any defects that may have been introduced throughout the process. - Then following up with a Ceramic Coating. I understand the only real answer to address this is to respray, but the owner and I both have the understanding that this is just in hope to make it look better than before. Just want to help him out. I'll update with the picture I have.

Unfortunately I also get some streaky results with boost. Here's a few notes I've come up with when using Ceramic Boost: - as @BRZN said, try spraying into the towel that way you have more control over where the product is being applied. - Use less product than you think - Try using 1-2 sprays per panel, I find that sometimes, that will be enough to cover a full Door. If you find that you need more, only then spray more. - Keep out of direct sun - Work fast - If I notice streaks directly after I apply CB (Like 5-10 minutes after), and I cant get them out with a towel or by applying more boost, I have had luck with Brilliant Glaze. - If it's been more than 5-10 minutes when I notice the streaks, I've had luck with Revive Hand Polish, otherwise, Polishing is the only sure way to get them out. - I always have at least 4 clean and dry microfibers at my disposal - This is probably due to my first few times of only using 1-2 towels and spraying entirely too much product. Since then I've changed my process and started using less product, but I always am ready with extra towels. Sometimes I need all 4. Sometimes I only need 2. If I'm applying with the wet application, I will surely go through 4 towels. If I'm applying dry, then I may only need the 2. If you're wiping and you notice your towel is still leaving a little bit of water along the edge, that means it's too saturated with water and/or product, and the towel needs to be flipped to another, dry side. If you can't find a dry side or a side that won't leave that little bit of moisture, then it's time to get a different clean and dry towel and that should do the trick. ^^ All this is to say that there's not necessarily a right answer; the process I use is dependent on the environment and other variables. It sounds like I am about to step into the ring against Ceramic Boost. Let me say that I am not, I would say I'm in CB's corner. I think the product is very good and very effective. It leaves an amazing finish, and has great protection! I'm just sharing that it took me a second to figure out how to get the results I wanted.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-rinseless-car-wash You can use this in your bucket with some microfiber towels. I love rinseless wash especially in the winter or on days when I only have 30 minutes or so to do a wash. Works well, and is best for lightly dirty surfaces. If your car is very soiled, definitely opt for the full traditional 2 bucket wash method.

Lol it’s big enough for him to fly around in at least.

Hi Zach, nice wheels. Yes, the Ceramic Spray Coating is suitable on wheels. However, you may want to look into the Wheel Coating kit as it leaves a much thicker much more robust protection that will last for years. Ceramic Spray Coating will last for probably one year. Process in coating the wheels would be dependent on a few things. Have you been driving with them already? If you have you'll want to do a full cleaning with Eco Wheel Cleaner/Wheel cleaner and likely use a claybar to remove any additional contaminants that the Wheel Cleaner couldn't get. You want them to be completly free or any dirt, grime and contaminants before you coat them. If they need to be re polished do that. Then use surface prep to remove any polishing oils or anythings else left over on the finish, this is a critical step and paves the way for the coating to truly bond to the surface. Then apply your coating, and allow to cure. Maintenence would mainly be using something like Car Shampoo in your bucket with your wheel tools to clean the wheels, and every once in a while using Eco Wheel Cleaner/Wheel Cleaner to get any stubborn contaminants off. But for the most part, just using car shampoo should do a good job of cleaning them since the coating will not allow dirt and grime to stick. Every 4-6 weeks you'll want to use a ceramic infused product to maintain the wheels after you have cleaned them. So you would clean them and after they are clean apply either Ceramic Boost or CS3 or H20 Guard and Gloss.

Using the Sun can work very very well to see things you wouldn't see with certain LED's.

Yessir, it should be the same “What can I use this on? Can I just spray the whole car with it?”Adam’s Ceramic Spray Coating provides protection to an extreme range of areas on your vehicle. Painted surfaces, Wheels, Glass, Headlights, Plastic trim, Bed liners, Tonneau covers, Canvas tops, Floor mats, Unfinished metal— All are safe to be protected. As much as we want you to spray the entire vehicle at once, we strongly recommend that you go panel by panel to ensure thoroughly application and as much control of overspray as possible. That came from the product page If the video you watched was the one where it looks like Adam is teaching a class and he sprays directly on the vehicle and does about a door at a time, then I think I've seen that one. Although I fully believe that is a good way to use the product, I've had worse luck (with overspray and high spots) by spraying directly on the vehicle, so I choose to spray into my applicator and run the applicator on the vehicle.

This is a great conversation. Thanks for your input @shane@detailedreflections and @RayS This is something that I would love to hear more input on from anybody and everybody. I ran a design business for a short amount of time after I got out of school and I had a lot of trouble with it. I am not very business minded; add the fact that I was desperate for work, and I found myself compromising my pricing because I just needed the work. I sold it as if I could reduce the scope of work to fit their budget, but I just ended up producing the original scope of work for the reduced budget because I wanted to get my name out there, and I wanted my work to be seen as above and beyond despite the lack of pay. Even through all that it still ended up being unsuccessful. I no longer run the design business, but I have been very inclined to officially start a detailing business. I'm afraid that I will run into the same issue since I have no name and client-base in the detailing community. How did you guys get your start in the early years of your businesses (detailing or not)?

Heres s picture of some of those things. Check spreadsheet images for more complete list

Anybody need any of these things? Not sure what I'm looking for, older bottles and older limiteds would be fun, but I'm open to consider things.

Both Waterless Wash and Detail Spray will be safe without harming the coating, however, the detail spray can mess with the hydrophobic properties of the coating since it's in the wax family. I used Detail spray several times on my coating just because I really enjoy the Detail Spray finish, and didn't notice anything different, but in theory, there would be some effect on the hydrophoics of the coating since youw ould be laying a very light layer of wax ontop of the coating. So I would suggest you use Waterless Wash before you resort to DS.

Welcome, Dominik! Nice ride!

Well deserved, my friend. THanks for making this a great community.