Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

Hi David! Welcome! Let us know how we can help. To start off this thread below might be a good read for you. It's write up on different types of protection:

What I understood for that is that Car Shampoo is just a PH neutral cleaning shampoo. Meaning no protection added to this shampoo. Other shampoos like Wash and Was have protection built in, which may add to the protection of your ceramic coating. Otherwise, safe on Ceramic Coating.

I have washed mine (made sure to maark them so I know they were ceramic coating towels) and I reused them only for interior or lesser jobs. I have meant to try using them on a test panel to see if they scratched, but my life got all rearranged around that time and I wasn't able to.

Yeah, like @falcaineer said, I usually just use soap and water... The way I do it is by putting car shampoo in my wheel bucket and getting it on my wheel tools (brush, whoolie, etc.) and then I'll get the wheels whet, then use the tools to clean and then rinse... Once done, if desired, you can top with Ceramic Waterless Wash, or H20 GG, or Ceramic Boost

Nah totally safe on headlights.. Actually a great protection to put a sealant on headlights. I've read in some owners manuals not to use wax on lights... I don't know what that's about, I haven't researched it, but now I just make sure to stick to sealants on headlights and taillights.

Welcome Corey!

Welcome to the forum! make sure to post in the new members section to get a proper welcome! Shiny Vinyl? Can you post a picture of what you mean? Have you tried Matte Detailer?

Lol, it's been used on several different make's paints and I get pretty much the same result with this product. It's great. I even like to use it on my file cabinet at work to get some shine.

Hi Fisher, I'm having trouble seeing your pictures, but I do know this about correcting compounds: Usually when you use a heavy compound like Adam's Heavy Correcting Compound, it is usually used in a multiple step process. The HCC is meant for cutting out defects, but not so much for finishing - it's common for there to be a little bit of hazing or clouding left behind with heavy compounds like this. So usually you would follow with at least one more step with the Orange Correcting Polish and the Orange Pad, which will get rid of the hazing leave a nice finish, and if you desire, you can follow with White Finishing Polish and a White Pad. But with all of this keep in mind that you're dealing with old paint, and since I am having trouble viewing your pictures, I would wait until somebody that can see them tells you if it's an issue with the paint itself or just hazing left behind from the compound.

Definitely safe on factory tint. Not sure about aftermarket, although, my thought is that it is. In any case, whenever you use it on a window, be sure to really thoroughly wipe the residue off. I like to first apply with a microfiber applicator, then let it sit for 2 minutes or so, then I come back with clean and dry microfiber towel and wipe off the residue. Make sure to get every corner and little tight spot where you may have applied it. It's easy to miss a little bit here and there in the corners because you're mesmorized by the new clarity of your glass.

Sgt. if you're referring to what is the maintenance process during the duration of your coating, @RayS has provided very good info on how to do that depending on your which vehicle you are maintaining. Like he said, I do 2 bucket wash method, and use Ceramic Waterless Wash as a drying aid when I hand dry. Every 4-6 weeks, I apply Ceramic Boost. If you were referring to what do you do when your coating duration is coming to an end? I plan on doing the full detail process again. Meaning I plan on strip washing, claying, decontaminating, polishing, and reapplying whichever protection I decide on (I can't see myself doing anything other than ceramic coating right now). This process would especially be important if you initially applied Ceramic Spray Coating, but you want to commit to the traditional Ceramic Paint/Wheel/Trim/Glass Coating. << The reason it's important to remove the existing Ceramic Spray Coating before applying the Ceramic Paint Coating is because the Ceramic Paint/Wheel/Trim/Glass Coating should always be the base coat ontop of your paint/wheels/trim/glass. After you have applied the traditional coatings and allowed them to cure, then you may follow with Ceramic Spray Coating on all surfaces as a topper (if desired, not necessary at all). The order should not be Ceramic Spray Coating > Ceramic Paint/Wheel/Trim/Glass Coating.

Hey there! Welcome to the forums and congrats on the new vehicle! You got any pictures?

Ryan, yes that’s a true observation. But this is also where I believe that Ceramic Spray Coating comes in clutch. It’s so versatile- one product to ceramic coat every exterior surface. Yes the longevity is not as much as a traditional coating, but you avoid having to spend $200+ to gather coatings for glass, paint, wheels, and trim. It’s all in one bottle for $20-30, then get a bottle of boost for $20 to use every 4-6 weeks and a bottle of ceramic waterless wash to use as your drying aid ever to every other week. You end up spending like $50 as your investment instead of the aforementioned. this will give you a great 6ish month trial to see if they are for you, before you commit to the traditional coatings.

Let’s see some pictures! Otherwise we don’t believe you.

Yeah, if that's the case, it may be likely that you don't need any of the new bottles. Although, I will say I have heard of cases where the All Purpose Cleaner may be leaking out of the regular bottles. I've been keeping an eye on mine, but everything seems okay so far.

Dan, have you noticed the Ceramic Spray Coating leaving the chemically smell? ive been wanting to do this to some weather tech mats in a brand new vehicle, but was afraid it would leave the ceramic spray coating smell.

I believe these bottles are used for the heavier chemicals. Strip Wash, Microfiber Revitalizer, Tire and Wheel Cleaner, and I guess Bug Remover all probably leak from the normal bottles.

Welcome to the Forum!

I would lean towards no, I don't think you'll need to apply wax after LPs and HGG. I say that since I'm not very confident that all three of those things would play well together. I know LPS and H20 GG are great together, but I've never seen with Buttery on top. I think LPS and H20 GG will provide plenty of protection, and great hydrophobics. I'm afraid the buttery might mess with the water behavior. But this may be a matter of personal preference.

Agreed with @falcaineer ceramic waterless wash is one of the best things ever

Well said, Ray. #ForumModeratorsAppreciationDay

Welcome back! It's less scary when you've got the forum!

I think the best move is to use the microfiber applicator and remove with suede towels. They remove less than the plush single soft towels

So originally there's a Black Trim Restorer. Essentially it's just a way of applying pigment back to faded trim. Then they have protection products to put on top of your restored black trim (products like Ceramic Trim Coating and VRT). Now, they have come out with an all in one Ceramic Trim Restorer, which is combining the Black Trim Restorer and the Ceramic Trim Coating. And that's a good observation that you're making. This product actually debuted like 2 weeks ago, so it may be that they are trying to phase out the Trim Coating. It's also important to note that not all Trim is Black. Grey is another popular trim color, so it may be that somebody with Grey trim wants to use the Ceramic Trim Coating to not dye their trim Black. Honestly though, it's very new and we're all still learning about it, and that may be a question for Adam's at this point.

To answer your question from before, yes you’ll want one of the two coatings on before you do one of the waxes. And if you want to do the ceramic paint coating that would be your base layer. but if you’re saying you want CSC, that would be great! I love it! And I don’t believe that it would be overkill. I think using CPW over CSC would be appropriate