Just wanted to clear up a few misconceptions about coatings given your experience.
Coatings get contaminated less quickly than non coated vehicles due to their hydrophobic, “self cleaning” properties. This doesn’t translate to not needing to be decontaminated.
We recommend clients with coated vehicles to come back yearly so we can properly clay and decontaminate as needed. In that process if a light polish needs to be done we will, or even to reapply the top coat.
Many professional grade coatings are applied in layers so that the top layer can be damaged/removed/replaced as needed. We don’t charge extra for that once a client has a coating done. We simply do what needs to be done for our clients. Most professional base layers are difficult to remove...think wetsanding. Polishing lightly is adequate, especially if you’re reapplying a top layer.
If your vehicle went two years without the proper maintenance, I’m not surprised it doesn’t act like when it was new. My feeling is some decontamination and a light polish and that action comes back.
The number one cause of people people who have coated vehicles and think the product has failed is that the surface needs to be decontaminated. Once you get contamination on the surface, it won’t act like when it was freshly installed as it’s not the same surface it was. A decontamination and a little top layer maintenance and you’re good to go!
Despite marketing hype, coatings can be damaged and they do require maintenance. It’s just a different maintenance schedule than a non coated vehicle.
You definitely dont have to do a paint correction. If you are happy on what it looks like just know that the Ceramic coating/spray just locks the paint in. It does not reduce swirls.
If ur happy with it thats all that matters.
The claying could introduce some swirls, Would members recomend Revive
hand polish after claying? If he doesnt want to use a SK???
As far as your Mb..the DS can def be used in betweeen washes and as a drying agent. The BG shouldnt be used on paint if its cermic coated (some may argue othetwise) but a neat trick the forum has exposed is using it on interior windows. Leaves them near invisible!
gooD luck
If you clay bar, you’ll want to polish the paint. A clay bar is an abrasive. It will mar the pint.
A ceramic coating has amazing hydrophobic properties. Putting anything on top of the coating (besides a silica spray sealant such as ceramic boost) will affect the hydrophobic properties of the coating.
I'm confused as to why you wouldn't want to coat the barrels before the weights are installed. I would want the coating on all exterior surfaces prior to mounting the tire and it is balanced. It's not like the wheel weights won't stick to the coated wheel. The adhesive is strong.
Thanks @falcaineer. We use suedes from another vendor and we do toss them after a ceramic install. For us it’s a “cost of doing business.” I admittedly haven’t checked the price of Adams suedes, but the ones we use are affordable.
We use suede, low microfiber and another low microfiber in our ceramic installs. So three towel system. Each extending out further than the last.
Im was in same boat, completed my CC last year using single soft.
I would go with the new suede towel for removal this time. Im was thinking of re applying my CC and def getting new suede towel.
I dont believe everything i hear but it makes sense that the single soft was absorbing a portion of the CC.
Just watched the recent video Adams made regarding their ceramic products. I heard the guy talking about how there is now a specific towel for removing just the right amount of stuff from the paint when used vs using single or double towels which may remove too much product...
I recently (before this rebranding stuff) purchased the spray ceramic coat (right when it came out) and it was recommended to use the regular towels. Now there is a special towel for this...
Do I use a single soft towel, or do I now go order the suede towel?
I feel like I keep having to buy stuff 😥. Planning on doing my malibu with the spray ceramic before I do the bigger X5, which I just applied sealant on couple weeks ago...
So you've invested a good amount of money into detailing chemicals to care for your car, truck, SUV or bike. Because some chemicals, like polishes, are low volume use its common to start to have bottles that are a few years old before they're completely used up. The listing below is to serve as a guideline for product 'expiration' and means to determine if you need to replace something. This by no means is an exact timetable. Products should be evaluated regularly to determine their usefulness. If you have any questions about the current condition of a product you own please email tips@adamspolishes.com with a description of your concern and a picture of its undisturbed state.
HOW MUCH OR HOW FREQUENTLY TO BUY
As tempting as it may be to show your friends up with a complete collection of 5 gallon refills, this might not always be the best practice when it comes to keeping your chemicals fresh. As a general rule try to never buy more of any one product than you can see yourself reasonably using in 1-2 years time. Not only are some products fickle when it comes to use beyond that time frame, at Adam's we like to reformulate and tweak formulas every few years. Often times its to keep up with advances in chemical engineering, but increasing environmental regulations and a diversified automotive finishes drive the need for product updates. If you're stocked up with 5 years of chemical, it can be rather frustrating when that new product is released.
BEST PRACTICES
There are a few general rules that should be followed with all your detailing chemicals for care and storage that will keep them usable and at peak performance.
TEMPERATURE - Products should be stored in a temperature controlled environment whenever possible. If your garage dips below 40* in the winter months or sees temps north of 85-90* in the summer it would be in your best interest to store the products indoors. Heat and cold will have a dramatic impact on some products, can alter their composition, and even render them useless or ineffective.
SUNLIGHT EXPOSURE - Whenever possible detailing chemicals should be stored in a closed cabinet or at the very least out of direct sunlight exposure for extended periods of time. Sun can cause color and scent changes, as well as performance issues with products like Glass Cleaner, Waterless Wash, and APC. Chemicals being exposed to sunlight during use isn't a concern, but try to return the bottles to a shady or covered area if they won't be used for more than a few minutes.
SHAKE BEFORE EACH USE - All chemicals should be shaken well prior to each use. Chemicals that have been in storage for extended periods of time should be shaken even more and for a longer period to ensure that they are fully mixed. If a product will be stored for an extended period of time without use, try to at least make a point to shake the bottle very few months to prevent permanent separation.
LONG TERM CAPPING - Any chemical that will be stored for more than a few months without use should be re-capped with the red shipping plug that was inserted at the time of bottling. Remove any sprayers and replace with caps if possible. The red shipping caps under the lids ensure an air tight seal and reduce the chances of product failure from oxygen exposure.
CLEANING BOTTLES - before storing your products be sure that there is no residual chemical residues on the bottom or sides of the bottle. Not only will these make a mess of whatever storage area you have chosen, there is also a risk of damage to the label or bottle which could potentially result in a leak or other issue with the product while not in use. Wipe each bottle dry before putting it away.
INDIVIDUAL PRODUCT CONCERNS
In general we guarantee our products to remain in good, usable condition when stored properly for a period of up to two years, but this is only to serve as a general guideline. Some products will last longer if stored correctly.
APC, Leather Cleaner, TID, GWC, DS, and UCS are all relatively forgiving when it comes to temperature. They may have some visual chemical separation or slight color changes over time, but so long as the product can be shaken and does not re-separate it is safe to use. APC and LIC are especially susceptible to sun exposure. As little as 10 minutes in direct or intense sunlight will bleach these products out... it still works fine, but may have an odd aroma if this happens. UCS experiences a higher than usual expansion and contraction rate with heat... as such it can cause bottles to crack and/or leak when the bottle is outside of the recommended temp range. Keep this in mind when choosing your storage area as it can stain if it does leak.
Super VRT, Original VRT, DWC, and Rinseless Wash are particularly susceptible to cold. Freezing of Rinseless Wash or SVRT will result many times in an odd separation, change in color, or consistency of the chemicals. Even after shaking these may not return to normal. Deep Wheel Cleaner will change colors dramatically. This does not necessarily impact the cleaning power of the product, but the color changing aspect can potentially be reduced by prolonged periods of freezing.
Paint polishes including Paint Correcting Polish, Finishing Polish, & Revive are comprised of 2 parts (liquid and solid) they tend to separate mostly with time. Heat and cold tend not to play as large a role in their storage as other chemicals. Because of this polishes can generally be stored outdoors (garage) so long as no freezing occurs. Some separation will happen even after a short storage in ideal temps so it is absolutely required that all polishes be shaken well prior to use. Failure to get the product fully mixed can result in an abnormally high or low amount of abrasives suspended and ultimate change how the product performs on your paint during use.
Metal Polish 1, Metal Polish 2, and Brilliant Glaze separate quickly. This is perfectly normal... a clearish solution will rise to the top while the larger, more opaque solids fall to the bottom. Its suggested that you not allow these products to sit in a 'separated' state for more than 3 months at any given time as they may become difficult to remix. Avoid freezing temps at all costs, all 3 products are more forgiving of heat than they are of cold.
Buttery Wax, Leather Conditioner, Clay Bars, and Liquid Paint Sealant should be stored in a temp controlled environment. Freezing and/or excessive heat have detrimental effects on these products performance so storing in the proper location is key. Buttery Wax specifically may experience some oily separation on the upper layer if exposed to high heat. Try shaking the bottle well and inspecting to make sure it remixed. If it begins to develop that oily upper layer again the product is likely no good and should be replaced.
Americana and Patriot Wax are mostly harmed by high heat which can cause melting, separation, and tub warping. On the positive side hard waxes like Americana can be stored in a refrigerator without any harm to the product. If storing in a refrigerator make sure to allow additional time before use for the product to come up to a usable temperature. DO NOT MICROWAVE THE PRODUCT AT ANY TIME! While refrigeration is a great way to keep your paste waxes at their best, freezing is not! Make sure you are storing in a way that they wax is kept above freezing. SPECIAL NOTE: When storing Americana or Patriot Wax the surface of the wax should be free of any debris and the applicator should be removed from the pot. Never store an applicator under the lid with the wax for any period of time. Applicators should be stored outside the container.
Aerosol products like In & Out Spray and Quick Sealant can be stored in moderate environments without any degradation to performance. Some caution should be exercised in conditions of extremely high temps as the added pressure can result in sprayer failure or other problems. When done with any aerosol product dispose of the can appropriately by holding it upside down and expelling the remaining propellant into a trashcan. Avoid inhaling the fumes. Once fully discharged the can is 100% recyclable.
WHAT DO I DO IF I FREEZE OR OVERHEAT A PRODUCT?
Don't panic. You left a bottle of Detail Spray in the garage and it froze? You left your Car Shampoo outside in the summer and it got cooked? Don't automatically assume the product is bad. If the appearance or consistency of the product has drastically changed start by taking a picture of the product and emailing it to us. Include a brief description of what happened to the product so we know what it was exposed to and can advise you from there.
After you've documented the current state move the product to something that will contain any leaks. Extreme heat or freezing can cause unwanted expansion and contraction of the PET plastic used in our bottles. While this plastic is great for its sturdy construction and crystal clear appearance it can be damaged by extreme temperature changes. A frozen bottle might not show signs of leaking right away, but as it thaws it will begin to seep product in some cases. Setting the bottle in a bowl, bucket, or even a gallon freezer bag while it thaws will prevent messes and lost product.
For frozen products NEVER heat the product. Allow it to thaw at room temperature until it is completely thawed then shake well to mix the product and set it somewhere for a few hours. If you return and the chemical looks normal you're good to use it again. If the color has changed drastically or the product has separated out significantly (for products that don't typically separate) it may be a product you want to replace.
For products that have been exposed to high heat move them somewhere at a reasonable temperature and allow them to cool naturally. Do not place them in ice or anything that will accelerate the cooling process. Place the product in a bag, bowl, or sink in case the bottle begins to leak after heat expansion. Once the product has returned to room temperature give it a shake and inspect. If you notice a drastic change in color document it and send us a picture. Open the lid and note any changes to scent. For products like Glass Cleaner and TID which will be used on the interior of your car, odor changes can be less desirable.
WRAP UP
Long story short - take care of the products that take care of your car. While it can be inconvenient to have products stored in your laundry room or basement in the off seasons your detail products represent a sizable investment in the care of your vehicles appearance, so you don't want to waste them.
Obviously gallons are easily transported and stored with the handle built in and 16oz bottles can be stored easily inside of our wash buckets. The gamma seal lid keeps the smell of car care from permeating the room you're storing them in. For frequently used products a travel bag or even a 6 pack bottle holder from your favorite brewery makes a great way to manage your most frequently used products.
However you choose to store your products, rest assured if you have a question about a product you can always reach us via email for guidance and advice by emailing tips@adamspolishes.com
Use a spray or two of Detail spray per panel as your drying. Helps shed water, adds shine, and a layer of extra protection between the towel and the surface of the paint.
My old old regiment was paint sealant about twice a year, G&G every couple of washes, and detail spray when I wasn’t using G&G.
Kyle, a couple of things. One, how about flow charts for the entire wash process, sequentially? Starting with wheels/rims and finishing with interior glass (or whatever you all recommend)? Two, consider hanging these on the web site as .pdfs we can download?
There’s a reason there aren’t many chemical manufacturers marketing a “strip wash.” It’s a product looking for a solution. If done properly, a full detail will remove it all.
Not to mention that if you really want to help with stripping, you can add a few ounces of APC to your wash. Strip wash as a stand alone product is just another product to purchase and manage.
After seeing a need for some flowcharts and more "processes" for overall detailing, especially Ceramic Coating and maintenance, I've developed the roadmap to Ceramic Paint Coating! Let me know what you think and how this can help you-- Also, If there are any processes you are confused by, list them here and I'll consider them for future flow charts!
First time doing 3 step paint correction.....DONT do 2 cars in one day!!!!!
I couldnt lift my arms By end of night!!
I couldnt help myself though..SK works great.
