fogle

Just like the ttile states.
How us your wedge holding up?

This is mine and I know of another that looks the same.
http://i.imgur.com/tyJSuoS.jpg

If we where playing "hot or cold", you wouldn't be cold.

If we where playing "hot or cold", you wouldn't be cold.

If we where playing "hot or cold", you wouldn't be cold.

Yea that's it......

Yea that's it......

Yea that's it......

Yea that's it......

You've been asking and I'm happy to say we finally have USPS options integrated into site as an economy shipping option. You'll now be able to select USPS First Class and USPS Priority Service for smaller shipments, up to 15lbs.
 
Right now the integration is being tested, so if you're making a purchase soon please consider selecting one of the USPS options offered and if you can share your experience with us here. We want to make sure you are having the same great experience with our economy shipping options.
 
FedEx will still be the preferred option for heavier shipments, but our rate study showed that shipments of 15lbs or less would be less expensive for our customers via USPS.
 

Woke up early in the morning and did a waterless wash (I had just washed it a day prior). Got to work with the clay using the 64:1 rinseless formula as the lubricant...
 
Wiped the car down to see progress and got to work with a Flex and white foam pads along with adam's paint finishing polish. The car was in such good condition that I didn't feel like I needed machine polish, but the Flex was new and I wanted to to see how it was using it. I think revive hand polish would have been an excellent choice for a car in this condition, but no worries! At the end, I honestly couldn't tell a difference. Car looked the same, but felt smoother to the touch. (I also started noticing couple swirl marks throughout the car I hadn't seen before)
 
Then after this was done, I wiped the entire car down and put on a layer of Liquid Paint seal with the flex. After wiping it down, I could tell the color looked "deeper". Lastly I put on some glaze to see what it was all about and if it makes a difference.. well it sure did. the color looked more "wet" and the carbon flash colors (metallic black) really started to pop. 
 
I had being going since 9am all the way to 4 at this point with just a lunch break, so I was getting tired. I decided to put some buttery wax on the carbon flash painted pieces and call it a day. I will probably do buttery wax in a month or so after I do a rinseless wash on her to bring back some shine. By the way, I think the buttery wax is the best smelling product. It smelt like banana pudding, and I wanted to eat it!!!!
 
The wheels got a treatment of paint finishing polish by hand with small 4 inch foam pads followed by Liquid Paint seal. I realized in the pictures I need to figure out a way to get deeper into the wheel as it's sorta dirty there. Maybe that machine thingy you put on a drill, or one of the brushes with a handle on it. I couldn't fit my hand in there with the rotors.
 
Well, here is the end result... I'll caption some of the pics to show you guys where I was in the process.
 
Starting the process

[imghttp://s16.postimg.org/vra2dg8np/AH1_5779_Dx_O.jpg[/img]

 
Polishing the panels... alot of dusting. Couldn't make it stop. Had to get a air compressor to get the dust out later!!!



 
After a very long day, it's over. Felt like bit of a chore when you spent an entire day.. But it was worth it










 
 
 
 
 

I started off with two cars. The first one was a running and driving 1998 trans am. It had several go fast goodies, such as, ls6 intake, huge cam (don't know the specs), built 4l60, 9 inch w/4.11s, and suspension goodies. The previous owner wrecked the car beyond repair. The floor is wrinkled and the left frame rail is kinked. The second car is a complete shell minus some misc interior pieces and suspension. The goal is to build the roller using everything from the wrecked car. In the process of this, we are reprinting every little piece or bolt to make it look brand new.    The old car.   Exhaust Video   We started off by painting the engine bay of the roller. We decided on sonic blue as the color.    Next we swapped everything on the core support over to the roller.   The nest weekend we swapped rear ends. This is usually an easy task, but like I said I wanted to clean everything up.    Had to add a little flair... So we painted the springs and sway bar. Springs are already replaced with lowering springs.   This was the reason of the death of the wrecked car.  Apparently he went through a culvert, and I'm assuming the torque arm mount caught something and bent the floor and bracket.    Projects     After we swapped rear ends, the motor had to come out of the wrecked car. This was the first time my father and I pulled a ls1. We had it out in about 3-4 hours.     Once the motor was out, we found out the "little" fire that had happened after the accident was much worse than what we had thought.      Fast forward a couple weekends, we swapped the interiors over. Before we laid the carpet down I had to make a patch panel for the 6 speed hole. I also drilled the a4 shifter bracket out of the wrecked car and transferred it to the roller. I put seam sealer between the patch panel and the floor. I made it removable just in case I want to do a t56 swap later down the road.   Before   Sealed   Me laying down base   Then came the dash swap.... I don't think I will ever do a dash again!   A sign of relief was seeing the dash lit up.   95% complete.    On the dashi wanted to something different, but not ricey lol. I decided to paint the ac vent surround body color.      The interior isn't in perfect shape, but I rather spend money on the engine/suspension first.   My dad and I then painted the intake. When the car caught fire, the intake melted some.    Since I'm trying to put the car back together as cheaply as possible (remember I'm on a college budget) my dad took a grinder to the melted part of the intake.    After he did this, I Thoroughly inspected the last two runners for any cracks, holes, distortion, etc. The runners were perfectly smooth on the inside. Next my dad smoothed the whole intake out.    Add some sealer, base, and clear, a voila a chiny intake.     [url=http://s680.photobucket.com/user/xbozox/media/4b881d9d568f176793c21fd4fc4c1852.jpg.html]  
Then I did something I never wanted to do, I sold my Tbss.   Fast forward a couple of weekends, I pulled the k-member and broke it down. Cleaned everything up and painted it with Por-15. Cleaned both sets of calipers up. One set I mounted on the car, the other set I broke down for powder coating. I also pulled the motor and trans off of the old k-member and started to clean all the gunk off of it and got it pretty much ready for paint.    Threw the bumper on just to see what it's going to look like.   Up she goes.   Old nasty front suspension.   Cleaned and painted. Don't mind the sway bar, that will get painted.   Looking all purdy.   I don't have an engine hoist, so I had to improvise.    I ordered all new gaskets, knock sensors, knock sensor harness, plugs, plug wires, balancer, balancer bolt, ARP intake bolts, cam position sensor, injectors, harness, and a few other misc items. I'm also getting the headers coated at polydyn located here in Houston. It's crazy how fast all the little stuff adds up.   Then last weekend. I painted the motor, and reassembled some of it. Put new knock sensors and harness, oil pressure sensor, cam position sensor, map sensor, plugs, wires, gaskets, and injectors. Pushing to have the motor installed by next weekend. 
      That's were it sits today. Once the motor is installed, then comes the fun part, PAINT!

Well I won the Super Bowl contest on here and was promised a beanie and a trial of a new prototype product being worked on by Dylan and the crew at Adam's.



Come home Saturday and FedEx had delivered a box with this inside.





I figured I'd be receiving a bottle of the new soap that Adam's has coming out but was surprised with a new product that hasn't been teased to everyone yet.

So, once I read the love letter Dylan left me in the box I decided to give the new product a try so I figured I'd test it on the wife's Honda Accord.

This car had a quick sealant appied to it a few months ago and it was time to reapply a sealant so this was perfect time to give it a shot.



First thing I did was give the car a good wash.




After I finished that I applied the new sealant to the car. No pictures of that as I did it quick while it was still light outside.

Car has a good shine with the sealant on it and is very smooth to the touch.








From what I understand this is .1 of the product so I'm sure there will be another formulation or two of this before it's released so these are just my thoughts on .1.



Application was straight forward and simple. It seemed to "clog" my microfiber more than I figured it would.

I applied it to every surface on the car. Another product I used I had a hard time getting it to come off the windows but this removed very easily.

The color of it threw me off a bit when I first looked at it but after reading the letter this is not the final color.

Smell was ok, no fruity good smell or anything but like the color it's not final until the formulation is right.

Sprayed a little water on the hood and the beading was very good.



Ready for it to rain to see how it compares to the last sealant that was on the car.





Not much of a write up since there's no longevity testing or anything on the car but just from using this version I believe it's going to be a huge hit with Adam's once they get it all final and hopefully I can talk Dylan into sending me a small bottle of .2,.3 etc to see the differences.

Well I won the Super Bowl contest on here and was promised a beanie and a trial of a new prototype product being worked on by Dylan and the crew at Adam's.



Come home Saturday and FedEx had delivered a box with this inside.





I figured I'd be receiving a bottle of the new soap that Adam's has coming out but was surprised with a new product that hasn't been teased to everyone yet.

So, once I read the love letter Dylan left me in the box I decided to give the new product a try so I figured I'd test it on the wife's Honda Accord.

This car had a quick sealant appied to it a few months ago and it was time to reapply a sealant so this was perfect time to give it a shot.



First thing I did was give the car a good wash.




After I finished that I applied the new sealant to the car. No pictures of that as I did it quick while it was still light outside.

Car has a good shine with the sealant on it and is very smooth to the touch.








From what I understand this is .1 of the product so I'm sure there will be another formulation or two of this before it's released so these are just my thoughts on .1.



Application was straight forward and simple. It seemed to "clog" my microfiber more than I figured it would.

I applied it to every surface on the car. Another product I used I had a hard time getting it to come off the windows but this removed very easily.

The color of it threw me off a bit when I first looked at it but after reading the letter this is not the final color.

Smell was ok, no fruity good smell or anything but like the color it's not final until the formulation is right.

Sprayed a little water on the hood and the beading was very good.



Ready for it to rain to see how it compares to the last sealant that was on the car.





Not much of a write up since there's no longevity testing or anything on the car but just from using this version I believe it's going to be a huge hit with Adam's once they get it all final and hopefully I can talk Dylan into sending me a small bottle of .2,.3 etc to see the differences.

Should use teespring and use the American Apparel shirts.
Awesome fitting shirts and you could sell them reasonably priced.

Waiting for blowout pricing on TID.

So you want to start mixing and diluting products for various uses, but you're not sure how to decode the ratios? Not to worry - the Shine Doc has got you covered! Dilution and mixing can be a very important part of a good detailing regimen, whether its to reduce the strength of a cleaner for more delicate needs or reduce the shine of a dressing, its key to know how to properly read dilution recommendations.
 
WHAT PRODUCTS CAN BE DILUTED?
Virtually any chemical can be diluted in one way or another, but things like wax for example won't be diluted often. Other products like Super VRT, Leather & Interior Cleaner, or Rinseless Wash will be things you dilute all the time.
 
CAN I USE TAP WATER TO DILUTE THINGS?
Yes and no, it really depends on the product you're mixing and what its purpose will be. Typically any product that has an 'optical implication' should only be mixed with distilled water. By optical implication we're talking about products with a visual impact on reflection, clarity, etc. So for example Super VRT can be mixed with regular tap water as the clarity of your tires or trim isn't an issue. On the other hand Rinseless should (ideally) be diluted with distilled water to reduce the chance for streaking when its used as a waterless spray.
 
DEFINING 'PARTS' IN A DILUTION
The term 'parts' are used in simplified dilution ratios that allow the user to calculate a dilution ratio regardless of the size of the bottle or batch you are mixing. Simply put 'parts' are a basic way to break down a mix and scale it to whatever amount you need or want.
 
In a dilution ratio your first number is always the water and the second number is your chemical, so for example:
 
If you were trying to create a dilution of Car Wash at 4:1 it would read 4 PARTS water and 1 PART car wash. Because the ratio is a simplified dilution you can apply it to something as small as a 16oz bottle or as large as a 5 gallon bucket. As long as you know the parts you can create any batch you need at the identical dilution ratio.
 
HOW PARTS MAKE UP A TOTAL YIELD
With the parts understood we can discuss how those parts add up to create your total yield. The total yield is the amount of the finished mixture you will create with your dilution. Simply put, the sum of the parts equals the yield. Sticking with our 4:1 mixture for Car Wash from earlier -
 
4 parts water and 1 part car wash equals a total yield of 5 (the sum of the parts)
 
If you were using a dilution of 20:1 your total yield would be 21. If working with a dilution of 10:1 your total yield is 11, etc, etc.
 
DETERMINING YOUR BATCH SIZE
Your batch will be dictated mostly by the container you intend to mix in. Keep in mind that most bottles are not defined by 'full to the top' as almost every bottle manufacture leaves an air gap at the top to reduce spillage. If your bottle doesn't have markers or a gauge to indicate sizes use a measuring cup to determine where the fill lines should be and mark them with a sharpie.
 
CONVERTING YOUR RATIO TO OUNCES
So now we know what parts are and how they add up to the total yield. You also know that your batch size will be dictated by your container, but how do we break the formula down into ounces and start mixing? We need to convert our parts to ounces. Lets say we're going to mix 32oz of our Car Wash solution at 4:1 to clean a set of delicate aluminum wheels:
 
 
BATCH / YIELD = OUNCES PER PART
 

Remember BATCH is the size of your container, or the amount you wish to make in ounces and YIELD is the total number of parts in your dilution ratio so in our example:
 
32oz  /  5  =  6.4 ounces per part
 
Now that we've determined our ounces per part we can plug that number back into the original ratio and determine exactly what we need to create our mixture in the correct batch size
 
4 PARTS WATER       x     6.4oz   =     25.6oz
1 PART CAR WASH   x     6.4oz   =     6.4oz
 
Double checking our math by adding it together you can see we have a total of 32oz of mixture being created at our desired dilution.
 
TIP: PRE-MIX LARGER BATCHES
Armed with all this new found knowledge of dilution how can you make it even more effective? Try pre-mixing larger quantities of your most commonly used ratios for refill purposes. Diluting directly into the bottle, while convenient and easy does present a challenge - if you are almost done with your mixture and need to refill it how can you accurately measure when there is already liquid in the bottle to contend with? By mixing gallon or larger batches to then refill your spray bottles you can eliminate the guess work and the need to mix for 128oz of use.

So the next time you exhaust a gallon container don't toss it out! Mix up a batch of your most commonly used dilution and have it ready to go whenever you need it!

 
COMMON DILUTIONS
Below you'll find just a few suggestions on various dilutions to use your Adam's products at. If you have a dilution ratio you like for a product reply here and we'll add it to the list. The beauty of diluting products is you can find a variety of needs and new solutions for products you may not have thought of before.
 
All Purpose Cleaner 8:1 - Delicate aluminum wheels or trim 4:1 - Bug or tar pre-treater, door sills, kick panels 1:1 - Ceramic coated wheels, gloss or matte black painted wheels, delicate engine bay Car Shampoo 128:1 - Soap Bucket 8:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Leather & Interior Cleaner 8:1 - Delicate surface interior cleaning 3:1 - Moderate soiling 1:1 - General coated leather cleaning (when no stains are present) Mega Foam 256:1 - Soap Bucket 16:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Rinseless Wash 16:1 - Waterless washing spray 64:1 - Clay lubricant 6:1 - Pre-Wash/Pre-Soak solution Strip Wash 128:1 - Soap Bucket 8:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Tire & Rubber Cleaner 1:1 - Maintenance cleaning of lightly dirty tires, delicate engine bay Ultra Foam Shampoo 128:1 - Soap Bucket 10:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun VRT Tire & Trim Dressing 1:1 - Spray on low gloss tire dressing 2:1 - Spray on detailer for vinyl soft tops/tonneau covers and engine bay plastics/hoses (sometimes referred to as "VRT Milk") 3:1 - Quick detail spray dressing for matte vinyl wraps Wash & Wax 128:1 - Soap Bucket 10:1 - Foam Cannon or Foam Gun Wheel Cleaner 1:1 - Paint decontamination/removal of ferrous metal (Iron Remover is preferred and more effective for full body panels) Wheel & Tire Cleaner 2:1 - Fender wells and engine bay 1:1 - Maintenance cleaning of lightly dirty wheels and tires 

Waiting for blowout pricing on TID.

Waiting for blowout pricing on TID.