Dan@Adams

You may have noticed we launched some new products onto the website yesterday afternoon, as well as Mystery Madness, with all sorts of different mystery boxes, buckets, crates, stools, etc! First up is product that many have been requesting for quite some time, Adam's Water Spot Remover! This is a very effective cleaner, but keep in mind it does have acid actives in it, so wear gloves and make sure to review the product video before use! Product Video: We also introduced a new formula update to one of our most popular products, CS3. The short answer for what is different about it - we made everything about it better with a few simple tweaks to the formula. The longer answer from our chemist: "We adjusted the ratio of cleaners to protectors to make it slicker, even glossier, less prone to streaking, and more durability." It should reliably last up to 2-3 months now per application. The scent was updated a bit as well, mixing passion fruit into the original pineapple orchid scent, to help distinguish the formula update too. A few new detailing accessories were added to the site as well! First up is the Adam's Rolling Wheel Detailing Stand. This high quality powder coated stand will make the process of cleaning and ceramic coating your wheels much easier. It can accommodate 14" to 22" wheels, and the rollers can be tilted to prevent the wheel and tire from tipping over. This one will save you time and effort when coating wheels! Then we also added a new Handheld Dual LED/UV Flashlight. This rechargeable light has 3 different shades of white on the color spectrum, as well as UV mode for using any of our coatings with our UV Tracer Technology. You can find these items and more, plus all of our mystery box options under the New Products section of the website. Make sure to use code SAVE for 15% off of your order, excluding mystery items. CLICK HERE TO SHOP NOW!

Yep, the scent is very close to (if not the same as) Ceramic Boost.

Hi Jim, our products are perfectly safe for use on gel coats! I've detailed several of my friends boats and jet skis using our machine polishes to clean up painted areas, Tire & Rubber Cleaner on rubber areas, and then I've used multiple protection products throughout the years - Paint Sealant, H2O Guard, and Ceramic Spray Coating are the three main that I will use for protection. I would be careful with VRT, not that it will harm anything, but could leave some surfaces like any foot areas very slippery. I use Ceramic Spray Coating on textured surfaces like Weathertech floor mats in vehicles since it does not make the surface slippery. If there are any vinyl graphics on the SeaDoo, be careful using All Purpose Cleaner, as I have seen the neon green color slightly stain some white vinyl material - Eco All Purpose Cleaner would be a much safer option for heavier cleaning of vinyl. If you have any other questions, let us know

Hi @KeninRWTX, an electric pressure washer with a psi over 1000 should remove flaky paint from a wood fence. There are a few cautions though to not damage the fence: - Keep the pressure washer wand at least 12" away from the wood surface - Do NOT use a 0° nozzle tip on the pressure washer handle, as it can damage wood (0° nozzle tip is usually used for cleaning stains from concrete) - I would be hesitant to use use a 15° nozzle tip as well, as it would still be a very powerful stream - A 25° or 40° nozzle tip is what I would start out with in a small test area. Our Pressure Washer 2.0 would be a great option for use around the yard as well as your vehicle, since it has a 35-foot power cord and a 40-foot hose for the Snub Nose Handle. It has a working pressure of 1700PSI at a flow rate of 1.4GPM, and you can find it here: https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-pressure-washer We have a 15% off sale running as well, which would bring the price down under $300 before taxes, and it would qualify for free shipping.

Hi there! These two towels should be mostly identical other than size and color as you mentioned. The Grey Plush Waffle Microfiber Towel is a larger 16" x 24" size rather than 16" x 16" of the Blue version. The Grey version is made in Korea as well, as printed on the bottom of the back of the bag on mine 👍

Hey Al, great question! You can absolutely use our regular Waterless Wash on a ceramic coated car, and I use it fairly often on mine. There isn't protection in our regular Waterless Wash, so you don't have to worry about buildup with it. I would say to use it up and then give CS3 or Ceramic Waterless a try when you need to restock 👍

Hi @xlr8rvette and welcome to the forum! Our 20th Anniversary Detail Spray came out just about a year ago now in March 2020 and sold out fairly quick! It was an updated version of our regular pink Detail Spray formula with a different fruity scent and increased slickness and hydrophobic properties, to gauge reaction on how customers thought it performed. Some of these enhancements found their way into later products like Slick & Slide. The clear and translucent black coloring of the liquid looks very cool in the collector bottles, but some found that it stained their white towels, so I would recommend using our Borderless Grey Towels with it instead 👍

Hi @Frydaddy, sorry I missed this post last week! We've had a few requests for some type of cart for the Pro-Series Pressure Washer, so I will pass this onto Product Development to see what they think 👍

Congrats on the new ride! What did you get? I'm not familiar with that specific product as we try to keep discussions here to Adam's Polishes products, but from a quick search, it looks like that product is not a polish, but rather a glaze and sealant. You do not want to use that or our Paint Sealant, unless you are wanting temporary protection on the vehicle until you are ready to apply the Graphene Ceramic Coating. If you use either of those, you will need to use Compound or Polish with a machine polisher in order remove the sealant and get back down to the bare clear coat to then apply the Graphene Ceramic Coating - the Surface Prep in our kit will not be enough to remove a sealant like either of those. If using a car cover, you may need to do some light machine polishing with our White Foam Pad and white Polish to remove any possible fine marring and faint scratching from taking the cover on and off of the vehicle. Sometimes even light breezes from a garage door opening can cause car covers to lift and settle back down onto the vehicle and cause some light marring, so you will want to be careful of that too.

Hi there, and welcome to the forum! For the Graphene Ceramic Coating, it would be best for the application and curing temperature to be around 50F (10C) or higher. Temperatures at or near freezing will make the application more difficult. Moisture is also a big issue during the cure process - if there is moisture, the coating can try to cure to it rather than the clear coat surface, and could leave water spotting. We recommend keeping the vehicle indoors for a minimum of 24 hours after application. 5-10 Celsius for curing should be ok but isn't ideal. 15-20 Celsius would be great if possible at least for the first few hours. Once the coating is applied and cured, we recommend Graphene Detail Spray or any of our SiO2-infused ceramic products for maintaining - CS3, Ceramic Waterless, Ceramic Boost, Wash + Coat are all great options. Our blue Car Shampoo and Mega Foam are fully compatible for washing as well. Our regular pink Detail Spray is ok for a coated vehicle, but the choices above will be more compatible. If this is your first time coating a vehicle, I would recommend checking out the recent Graphene Writeup I did a few weeks ago and also watching our installation video, as well as our latest video on troubleshooting issues with a coating installation: https://adamspolishes.com/pages/graphene-ceramic-coating-explained

The team just added some very limited number Valentine's Day Collection items to the website. This sale ends Friday at Midnight. Use the code LOVE for 15% off* Grab them fast before they sell out! CLICK HERE TO SHOP NOW! 115 Valentine's Mystery Buckets: Only 700 bottles of the 2021 Valentine's Detail Spray: *Mystery Buckets are not eligible for discounts

Bed bug

Hi Russ, we typically recommend our All Purpose Cleaner or Eco All Purpose Cleaner with a Wheel Woolie to clean exhaust tips, but our Wheel & Tire Cleaner would be another good option for a heavy duty type of cleaner. With any chemical (and even water), you do not want to spray hot exhaust tips on a vehicle that has just been driven - make sure to give the exhaust tips time to cool down so that they are cool to the touch before you begin to spray anything on them. Just like wheels, clean the exhaust tips in the shade if possible, and do not allow any cleaners to dry into them. Once you have the majority of the soot and exhaust residue removed, I use the Air Cannon or Blaster Sidekick to dry them off, and then use Metal Polish #1 with a Microfiber Applicator to finish them off to as close to perfect as possible. If you make sure to clean the exhaust tips at every wash, they will be easier to maintain and the soot and exhaust residue will be easier to wash off each time too!

Great questions! Buttery Wax is one of our easiest products with some great gloss and depth with little effort, but as you noted, it's not one of our most durable products. It's good for those that like to wax their vehicles more frequently without worrying too much about build-up of too many layers. As far as sitting in the garage vs getting driven in the elements, it should last longer if it's garaged frequently; however heat and sun are the main elements that will wear down Buttery Wax, so if your garage gets very hot in the summer or if the car sits outside in the sun often, you may see it degrade more quickly (also store the bottle in a room temperature area if possible). Combining Buttery Wax with Spray Wax or Detail Spray ever few weeks is a perfect combo. It will certainly help and should let the Buttery Wax last a little longer per application. You could use a light mist of Spray Wax or Detail Spray as a drying aid each time you wash the vehicle too. One or two sprays per panel is enough when using them as a drying aid, as you're just trying to reduce water spotting and add a little bit more shine and protection without leaving any smearing or streaks. Ceramic Liquid Wax is a newer product and almost as easy to use as Buttery Wax - they both apply very similarly, but Ceramic Liquid Wax is more of a synthetic sealant with ceramic infusion compared to more traditional waxes used in Buttery Wax. Ceramic Liquid Wax will usually last 1-3 months per application on its own from most vehicles I have used/tested it on. If you eventually decide to try out the Ceramic Liquid Wax after your Buttery Wax is used up, CS3 or Graphene Detail Spray both pair excellent with it, since they're both in the same product family 👍 Not that it matters when it comes to protection or performance, but Ceramic Liquid Wax has one of my favorite scents of all of our products, and I love how the smell stays in my garage for a few days after using it 😄

Welcome to the forum @QuickSilver20! Detail Spray and Interior Detailer are both a very great start to our product line, since they're some of our top-sellers and are both very easy to use. Interior Detailer with Microban is one of my favorite products, and I use it every 1-2 weeks in my car to keep it looking factory fresh. I love that it has a no-gloss finish. While there are a large number of products that can certainly be overwhelming, we try to group them together in kits and explain the benefits of each in our product videos, write-ups, and discussions on here. You may find that the most overwhelming area comes from exterior protection products, which can be broken up into a few specific categories: Ceramic Coatings (including the new graphene-infused products), Sealants, and Waxes. There is sometimes confusion as to which products to use and in what order. For example: "I have Buttery Wax, Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating, Brilliant Glaze, Rinse + Coat, Ceramic Boost, Detail Spray, and Paint Sealant - what's the best order to apply these?" This example is exaggerated, but the takeaway is that we have different options that work well together with their specific protection category, but you don't necessarily need or want to apply every product to one vehicle. Many factors such as intended use of the vehicle, time restraints, or comfort level of applying certain products like ceramic coatings can all weigh in on what product(s) a customer may want to use or may work best for their particular vehicle. Determining what may work best, troubleshooting problems and answering questions, and discussing tips and troubleshooting techniques are why we're all here. We have a pretty awesome community, with a wealth of knowledge and friendly help so please don't hesitate to ask any questions

I'm glad Ray mentioned #0000 Steel Wool, as it is entirely different than a low grit sand paper, such as 80 grit, which is very coarse for rough wood work. I'm guessing that was just a typo by mistake, but for everyone reading, I would not recommend using a low grit sand paper on it. It can be very difficult to polish swirl marks out of glass. Other companies offer cerium oxide polish kits designed specifically for polishing glass, but I do not have experience with those. I've always been hesitant polishing glass, as I've read and heard stories of polishing too much and giving a distorted fishbowl effect to the glass. You could try to compound and polish it with a Microfiber Cutting Pad and our blue Compound and then step down to the White Foam Pad and white Polish; however you may not see a large improvement in the appearance of the glass since they're intended for paint and clear coat. Also keep in mind machine speed and keeping the pad flat, as you don't want to potentially crack the glass from too much pressure or vibration (I'm not sure how strong/thick the tempered glass would be compared to a vehicle windshield...one of my neighbor's had her stove top shatter apart right around Thanksgiving from an accident from her kids, so I've been much more careful about setting pots and pans on my stove since then!)

Hi Khrystian, welcome to the forum! What do you have pre-ordered? Was it pre-ordered through adamspolishes.com, our wholesale department, or another source? I cannot locate any orders in the last 6 months with your name or email address. The only thing I can think of that we had available for pre-order in the last half-year or so was the Swirl Killer Micro Polisher. Edit: I see your location is in Australia - were you by chance ordering from the .au website? Adam's Polishes Australia is an authorized dealer but a separate entity, so you would need to contact them directly about any orders through them 👍

With Recochem acquiring Adam's Polishes and our blending company last year, as well as the recently announced POR-15 partnership, this provides exciting new technologies to not only expand the brand, but to develop and offer new technologies and products, and grow the international audience too since Recochem is a worldwide company. I have not discussed this with anyone yet, but I suspect that we may eventually have category tabs on the website for partner products. They're under New Products right now because they're new, and that is typically the most browsed section of the website. Rest assured, as you said, we always strive to offer the best car care products out there. Even just last night, our chemist showed me some very cool things he is working on, but I can't discuss that quite yet!

Hi @chops1sc, with one of the recent updates to the forum in the last few months, you no longer have to use the [img] and [/img] tags before and after the URL, just try pasting the URL into the post and then hit Enter and it should automatically add the picture into the post. I used your URL below for an example: I hope it works out for you. Let us know if you have any other questions!

I agree that I only apply one coat for the Graphene Ceramic Coating. For the non-graphene coatings like UV Paint and UV Wheel Coating, if you do want to apply a second coat, our chemist recommends applying 1-2 hours after finishing the first coat. You could try this with the Graphene Ceramic Coating, but the second coat may not bond as well to itself. I plan to try this soon on a few rear panels on my car that are in need of being compounded, polished, and re-coated since it's been 2 or 3 years now and 30-40k miles of driving in every weather condition in that time frame!

Lots of excellent suggestions here. I don't have much to add other than when you use Graphene Detail Spray, CS3, or H2O Guard & Gloss as a drying aid, you do not need to use a lot of product - 2 or 3 light mists per panel is usually enough to help with wiping away any fresh water spots and leave the finish looking great. If you use too much, you could notice some unwanted streaking and smearing while drying. If there is any sunshine, I move the vehicle into my garage to dry it, but that is not an option for everyone. If you can move the vehicle into the shade like Dave mentioned, even if it's just for drying if washing in the shade isn't an option, it will help. If my garage bays are full and the vehicles cannot be moved due to another detail, I'll sometimes move the vehicle I just washed into my front yard to use the shadows from my house to provide shade for drying.

You could try 2000 grit. It's fairly tame, especially if you don't use any pressure, but then I would follow up with 2500 and 3000 so that you can remove the sanding scratches more easily. Just make sure to keep the sand paper flat and even and sand in only one direction (left/right or up/down, but not both). Since it's a 2019, there should still be plenty of clear on there. I just recently did paint correction and Graphene Ceramic Coating on two 2020 Tiguans for good friends in a relationship (he was in a very bad wreck and needed a new vehicle since his car was totaled, and she was shopping for a new vehicle too, so they bought two in one day!) Her silver one had two bird bomb stains on the hood that I reduced about 75%, but even with a One Step Pad and our old Heavy Correcting Compound on the Swirl Killer Mini at speed 6 wasn't enough to fully remove them. She couldn't see them until I specifically pointed them out, so she told me not to worry about sanding them.

This was not intentional is and was accidental. The team is aware of what happened. They recently completed year-end inventory at headquarters, so that is my best guess as to how this machine was placed into the wrong area. These polishers are meant for display at our locations and show events like SEMA. The clear plastic will crack easily, and can melt if used. Thank you Jonathan for your honesty in returning this. The team will make it right with you.

Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner is a salt-based formula, so I would not use it on any leather or synthetic leather surfaces myself. If you did, follow it up with some Leather Conditioner or Interior Detailer as soon as you can.

Hi @EnzianF90 Unfortunately this type of bird dropping looks like it has etched the clear coat to the point that it has fractured the clear, which looks like small cracks and ripples in the clear coat. Bird droppings can be very acidic and can damage a clear coat in as little as a few hours if left on the surface or out in the hot sun. The acidic dropping eats through the clear, and the acid penetrating combined with the heat from the sun causes it to web outward - almost like how you will see a crack in a windshield enlarge and split out in different directions with extreme heat or cold, just on a much smaller scale. This example looks similar to what is known as "crow's feet" clear coat failure; however with crow's feet, it is a problem that is usually in a large area of a panel or sometimes an entire panel due to the cracks spreading from improper prep of the area (or from a repainted area that may not have been prepped very well). Polishing the area like you did can make it look better and reduce the appearance somewhat like Chris mentioned, but from looking at those pictures, the etching/cracks in this spot are most likely through the entire clear coat portion of the paint job, down to the base coat. So if you continue to compound and polish it, you could get down to the base coat before the cracking is fixed, and then you would have a bare paint spot that will be shiny but look different than the rest of the vehicle (I did this before being greedy with sanding a scratch on my project truck). Our Scratch & Swirl Remover has a fine grit abrasive to it, but I don't think it will fix this 100% in this particular case - if it was staining and discoloration from bird droppings, I usually have good luck with repairing that to near 100% fixed though. In this case, you will most likely need to sand down the area and spray new clear coat, blending it in as evenly as possible. Painting is not in my skill set, so I agree with falcaineer's suggestion and would have a paint/body shop take a look at it like. If you want to hold off on body work, protecting the area with a sealant or ceramic coating would prolong the amount of time before it would potentially become worse, so it comes down to if it's in a very noticeable area of the hood that will bother you, or if you can tolerate it for the time being and try to hide it some with sealants and so on. If it was me, since my area is very cold in the winter months, I would wait until it warms up some if I had to go with the repaint option.