Dan@Adams

Chrome strips for support, and 5/8" thick polypropylene rope hot-glued around the edge. I torched the ends of the rope so they wouldn't fray.

You are the second person to guess that! Haha. Nope.

I don't have an exact time frame on how long an application of leather conditioner will last for me, because it all depends on how often I use the vehicle, sit in it, and get in and out of it. On my daily driver Regal, I try to condition the front seats every other month, and the back seats maybe once per season of the year since less people sit back there. On my GTO, I find myself conditioning those seats quite often, because they like to soak up the conditioner and I like to try to keep them on the softer side. I will naturally use Leather and Interior Cleaner on them prior to an application of conditioner when they need it.

Since no one is guessing, here's another update, lol...all 20 cardboard pieces glued together.

It's a miracle product in my opinion, lol! Always helps me get that wow factor from customers when they come pick up their vehicles

Two sections glued together, plus some cardstock template clues laying on the cutting board.

These things are so cool. My friend Aaron is making some out in Oregon too. I want one so bad. Haha.

More cardboard hot-glued together. The cardboard should preferably be double-wall for strength.

One roll each of red, chrome, and blue duct tape at $3.97 a roll. You could also substitute white or normal gray/silver duct tape in place of the chrome roll, but I wanted to get creative. Any guesses yet?

Some of the cardboard pieces hot-glued together. One more clue, I had to peel all of the Adam's shipping tape off of the cardboard to have a smooth surface and cut down on weight.

I'll start by saying that I don't like being bored, and I'm a bit of a nerd and artistic person, so when I saw this online, I knew I had to make one. Constructed mainly out of one large Adam's double-wall cardboard shipping box. It took me about a week to make, working on it a little each night after work. I will provide a full materials list at the end of the finished result post Hmm, what am I up to now? Starting to shape a few of the triangle pieces. Any guesses? And NO CHEATING by looking at the photobucket URL. Well, if you do, don't post it up to ruin the surprise for everyone else.

Since I don't have any yet, I will say they look very similar to the old borderless blues that were offered, and I have quite a few of those that I am happy with. These have seamless borders with no stitching; whereas the double softs have an edge where essentially the two towel pieces are sewn together to give it double the thickness of a single soft towel. The double soft would thus be thicker overall than the borderless gray towel. Size-wise, they both appear to be 16"x16". They will be great for removing polish or wax, using as a detail spray towel, or as rinseless wash towels. I would imagine they would work nicely for applying H2O Guard and Gloss as well, for those picky detailers that worry about their white towels discoloring a little, but things like that don't matter to me.

I'll get some pictures of my setup once I actually clean things up this weekend. I have most of my stuff in the attached 2-car, but buckets and brushes are usually in the detached garage. My attached garage never really gets below 40 degrees or above 80 (great insulation, energy star certified home), but I still move my chemicals into the basement for the bitter cold and roasting hot days.

I had a blast tonight. Big thank you to Adam, Ray, and the outstanding staff and food at Carbone's! See you all in a few hours

Yep, I always make sure I have at least 2 or 3 sets of polishing pads ready to go when I start on a vehicle, whether they be 7" pads for the Flex or the 4" pads for the Cyclo. One of your other questions I didn't see answered, you will know they're clean when there is no more colored polish residue coming out of the pads when you're squeezing them under the hot water. I use the pad conditioning brush on my foam pads as well as using my thumbs to work all of the polish out. I clean my blue square microfiber applicators, ufo applicators, and hex grip applicators in the same fashion with APC.

Sent you an email. Thanks!

Hey Ray, I tried to send you a PM but it said your inbox is full Can you pm me with a phone number or email address I could reach you at? Thanks, Dan.

I can bring my 19.2v with two lithium batteries if necessary, just let me know

Dylan indicated that they are working on them, but in the mean time, Adam's Polishes Australia has some like this that I've been meaning to order, and they even offered to ship them to the U.S. for free!

Just my opinion but for a couple hours, sure, as long as they aren't already saturated with polish. Give them an extra spray of detail spray to prime the pad again. I've even been able to let the white foam pads sit overnight and use it the next day without problem, but I always wash out the orange foam and grab a fresh clean one if I don't finish a vehicle in one day.

If you look closely at your picture, it has a white circle background behind the A

Chonke, if you're using the Adam's blue brush, it's for tires not wheels. The red brush is for tires. The heavy grade nylon bristles on the blue scrub brush would be too harsh on wheels. Remember to clean the fender, tire, and wheel brushes after each tire. A simply hose-off after each tire gets my brushes clean of contaminants and back to their original color for the next wheel/tire on the vehicle If they don't come clean with just a hose-off, a quick dunk into my rinse bucket or a spray of APC or DWC will get them looking brand new again.

Did you apply it by hand with a microfiber blue applicator square or by machine with a gray foam pad? If you used the gray foam pad and machine, remember that you do not have to apply any downward pressure when applying a sealant or wax since you are not trying to do any paint correction at this point, just let the machine glide over the surface on a slow speed setting. If I'm using the Flex to apply LPS, I typically 'draw' a thin spiral pattern of LPS on the foam pad (Paint Correcting Polish and Paint Finishing Polish I still put an X-pattern on the pads for those). I then lightly blot it down onto the panel, say 1/4 of the hood in a square area. Then all you really have to do is move the machine in a vertical or horizontal pattern in that area, apply a little more sealant to the pad, and move onto the next area - no need to go back and forth several passes on one area, because again, you're just trying to lay down a thin, even coat of the sealant for protection. If you're using a blue foam microfiber square, I follow the same process, but I apply a circle pattern onto about half of one side of the applicator, blot it down 5 or 6 times in an area half as big as I would do with the Flex, so a 1' x 1' square usually, and then spread the LPS in the same horizontal or vertical fashion. I let it haze up for a minute or two and then wipe it off. I would say if the car feels rough to the touch after a wash, then yes I would clay first. This will also help you determine if you've put sealant down in an area if it's hard to see on a color like your car. Once the sealant is down, you can feel the sealant on the panel compared to the smooth clayed areas that you haven't yet applied the product.

Count me in for the dinner as well.

That's great that you're more than satisfied with it! I wasn't kidding in your other thread a while back when I said how high quality Patriot Wax is...it's unquestionably the best paste wax I've ever used