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samers

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About samers

  • Birthday 12/28/1969

Profile Information

  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Vehicle Year
    2015
  • Vehicle Make
    Jaguar
  • Vehicle Model
    F-Type R
  • Real Name
    Samer
  1. In my experience, Jaguar clear coat is on the "hard" side. It would take several passes with foam pads to level out the clear coat of my 2010 XF. The microfiber cutting pad, however, makes quick work of any scratches and swirls. Regardless, experimenting with a test area has multiple benefits including refining technique.
  2. No change after wetsanding but I did not get any blue in the runoff either. I did notice another spot yesterday on the edge of the rear fender that was exhibiting a similar effect.
  3. I clayed the area before the correction. I forgot to mention that reclaying the area was the first thing I tried because it felt like the area was caused by some gunk. I have plenty of foam pads and the products from the three step system. I didn't mean to imply that this may have been caused by any product. Rest of the car is flawless. I am at a loss as to why the clearcoat would fail when my car is extremely well maintained, garaged, and protected. Car is less than five years old. The area generally feels smooth. If you rub your finger forcefully into the area, some residue develops similar to the residue left behind by a sticker. That is what led me to reclay the area. A paint gauge is one of the few detailing gadgets I do not own.
  4. I couldn't find any discussions on how to clean microfiber pads in the videos or on the forum. Is the process the same as with the foam pads: rinse out with warm water and APC? Do the threads regain the softness they had when brand new?
  5. This area first appeared immediately after doing paint correction using Correcting and Finishing Polish with microfiber pads. I added Liquid Paint Sealant afterwards but I think the trouble started before that. When I first noticed the trouble area, it was about a third of the size. Some adhesive-like residue formed when I rubbed it with my finger. I did an extra IPA wipe down and made another pass with the polishes. Didn't help. After a week, I stripped the sealant and wet sanded the area with 3000 grit. Then as long shots I tried APC, Super VRT, and 3M adhesive remover. Nothing has worked and I am out of tricks and sickened by this imperfection. I didn't get any blue paint transfer when I wet sanded so I don't think it is clear coat failure. Is this easily repairable or will it require the trunk to be repainted?
  6. FMP using the 4" white pad usually knocks them out within two passes. It's not correcting them that is challenging, keeping the swirl demon away is. Even with wax, a perfect finish usually doesn't last more than a week on the B pillar.
  7. Nicely Done!!!! Those B-pillars are a pain--instaswirl after correction even with protection. Not to mention the transfer onto the pads. Nice choice on the color too.
  8. Of course, I follow it up with Americana. I'm only semi-retarded ;-)
  9. Congratulations on the new Jag, Lenny! You shouldn't have much problem with the PC on the XJ's clear. I have a 2010 XF and have had outstanding results with the PC. The only variation from PC SOP is that I find I get better results using the 6 setting rather than 5. Not sure if that is a factor of the Jaguar clear coat or just my technique. I would recommend starting at 5 and evaluating your results. As others before have mentioned, no need to apply both the machine super sealant and the spray sealant. I usually skip sealants and go straight to Brilliant Glaze followed by Americana
  10. Was feeling a little adventurous this weekend and decided to really attack my wheels. Turned out to be very time consuming and was only able to finish the two front 19" rims of a 2010 Jaguar XF. Before shots were taken following my standard wash using the GWC, Turbo Stick and the Boar's Hair Wheel Brush. Following removal, soaked the barrels and rear of the spokes for about a minute with GWC then cleaned using the boar's hair brush, lug nut brush, toothbrush, random towel. I park in a garage without a water supply so used a pressurized garden sprayer to rinse the wheels between phases. After getting them as clean as they were going to get, clayed inner and outer surfaces, applied Revive Polish, and topped it off with MSS. As I sat waiting the obligatory 20 minutes for MSS to cure, I really wished I had a can of Adam's Speed Sealant. The results. Not as perfect as I wanted but significantly better.
  11. How much benefit do you get out of soaking the brushes and Power Stick in the Car Wash bubble bath? I first noticed this technique in Mario's write ups and was curious if it simply made it easier to clean the brushes afterwards or made a difference when cleaning the wheels.
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