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Norton

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Norton last won the day on July 17

Norton had the most liked content!

About Norton

  • Rank
    Master AF Detailer
  • Birthday 05/31/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colo Spgs, CO

Converted

  • Location
    Colo Spgs, CO
  • Interests
    Many
  • Occupation
    Information Technology
  • Vehicle Year
    2013
  • Vehicle Make
    Ford / Chevy / Toyota / BMW
  • Vehicle Model
    Shelby GT500 / C7Z / Tacoma / 340ix
  • Real Name
    Steve

Recent Profile Visitors

1,572 profile views
  1. Neither I nor Adam's said you CAN'T use their coatings without machine polishing. It is, however, axiomatic that the appearance and longevity of a coating are directly related to the quality of preparation. Hand polishing will never match what's possible with machine. If I'm going to spend the time and money to install a multi-year coating, I want the BEST possible paint condition sealed-in underneath it. That means a (multi-stage) machine polish. What I said was... I stand by my comments.
  2. With all due respect, I disagree. So does Adam's Facebook account where they posted "Preparation is key when applying Graphene Ceramic Coating™. With the proper steps to prep your surface you can get 7+ years of protection..." earlier this evening. I guarantee "proper steps to prep your surface" don't include hand polish.
  3. You can do that but, for best results, you should wash, clay, machine polish, wipe down, and then coat. Whether you wax, seal, or coat, surface prep is everything. You'll never get the best result with hand polish.
  4. Ceramic offers the best protection and longevity. If you're really against that, @falcaineer suggests some other viable options. In my experience, however, Paint Sealant provides good protection and longevity that minimize the need to reapply throughout winter months.
  5. With all due respect, that sounds like a personal problem. If you can't stand using the "obsolete" stuff you bought last week, there's always The Garage Sale Forum where you can trade/give it away...
  6. R&D is never-ending, so there will ALWAYS be newer "better" products. Why wouldn't you just use what you have on-hand (that still works just like it did before the new stuff debuted) and, then, buy new stuff? 🤔
  7. Spot-on product recommendations. With all due respect to my friend, Adam, I prefer Ashley's video from a few years ago... 😉 +1. The key to easy engine detailing is doing it regularly, so the dust, dirt, etc never builds-up.
  8. An orbital polisher is exactly what you WANT to use since they're "random," by definition. Rotary polishers should be avoided. FWIW, my 8-year old GT500 has matte-finish vinyl stripes and I HAVE used my orbital polisher on them with no ill-effects. The "harshest" products I used to do so were white foam pads and Fine Machine Polish (when it was available). Doing so can remove minor blemishes, stains, water spots, etc. Generally, however, I used a combination of VRT and Matte Detailer, both hand-applied. If you haven't seen it, this video provides great insight on caring for factory vinyl stripes. I've since ceramic-coated the whole car, including the stripes, making maintenance a lot simpler.
  9. The wheels on my C7Z are powdercoated. Like @BRZN, I use wheel cleaner on them with no problems. The key is using the product correctly. It should never be applied to hot wheels, not in direct sunlight, and not allowed to dry on the wheels. I work on one wheel-at-a-time, allowing the Tire & Rubber Cleaner a bit of contact time, but I limit Wheel Cleaner contact time and rinse completely when I'm finished agitating with Wheel Woolies, Boar's Hair Brush, and a Lug Nut Brush. As usual, recommend testing the products on an inconspicuous area before applying them widely.
  10. Good point! I sometimes forget it's also sporting ceramic now. While the shine is harder to capture on silver, ceramic protects it and makes it as easy to clean as the other cars.
  11. Good luck, OP! Once you've removed the sap/tar, you should consider ceramic coating your car instead of waxing it. I realize it's more expensive and a bit more work, but the increased protection is worth the investment... Shortly after ceramic coating my black-on-black '13 GT500 a couple of years ago, I participated in a local car show. Without knowing it, I was staged downwind from a maple tree that was weeping sap into the steady breeze. By the time I figured out what was going on, hours in the bright summer sun had passed, baking the misted sap onto the entire car. Figuring I was looking at claying, re-correcting, and re-coating the car, I began by washing it (2-buckets, Adam's Car Shampoo, and an Adam's Wash Pad). Much to my surprise (and elation) the baked-on sap came off with a simple. standard wash - the car was as smooth and shiny as it was right after coating! I'm relatively certain things would have been much different with wax as LSP. Both my toys and wife's daily driver are now ceramic coated. My Shelby and wife's 340ix were coated a couple of years ago, while my C7Z was done about two months ago...
  12. I thought there was an Audi R8 in the Retail Area during February's Pizza Party & Grand Re-Opening?
  13. +1. Detail Spray is the better option.
  14. Nicely done! Is there any thought to offering a Home Surface Cleaner that's as effective against emerging viral pathogens as the (75% alcohol) hand sanitizer? (According to the CDC, available evidence indicates benzalkonium chloride has less reliable activity against coronavirus than ethanol or isopropanol.)
  15. Truer words were never spoken. I've maintained my 2013 GT500 with Adam's products since I drove it off the showroom floor in 2012. It was ceramic coated in 2018.
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