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Norton last won the day on April 7 2019

Norton had the most liked content!

About Norton

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    Master AF Detailer
  • Birthday 05/31/1967

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    Colo Spgs, CO


  • Location
    Colo Spgs, CO
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    USAF / Information Technology
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    Shelby GT500
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  1. The entire PC setup I had did, indeed, come from Adam's.
  2. I've used Adam's products for a long time, during which I've seen polishing systems come and go. IIRC... 3-steps (green, orange, and white) went to 2-steps (orange and white). Then, we went back to 3-steps (blue, orange, and white). Now, we're back to 2-steps (blue and white). Somewhere in there, a 1-step (purple) option also became available. This can be confusing (and a bit frustrating when you've invested in pads/polishes). The good news is Adam's R&D is ongoing - each new generation/product (line) improves on the previous one. That said and with all due respect to the company's desire for sales, I've never stressed over the upgrades or found it necessary to discard products I have in favor of what's "new." As long as they remain serviceable, you should finish what you have on hand before migrating to new stuff. More importantly, we've always had the option of mixing/matching polishes and pads as desired/needed - as long as they're still serviceable, "old" pads work just fine with "new" polishes. (e.g., When working on my wife's BMW several years ago, I found that blue Heavy Correcting Compound on an orange Correcting Pad was the "right" combination to correct the damage, followed by orange Correcting Polish on another orange Correcting Pad to "finish" the job. Neither MF nor blue pads were required.) The best guide when integrating new products into your routine is to always use the least aggressive means to achieve the finish you want. With that in mind and when you've exhausted your existing polishes/pads, I recommend buying both the new Compound and Polish, along with their respective color-coded pads. Working on a test area of your vehicle, see if Polish and its pad achieve the look you want. If so, finish the job with them, knowing that Compound is available if/when you get deeper swirls/scratches. If not, migrate to the more aggressive Compound on its pad (or a MF pad), knowing you may need to perform a second step Polish when you're done Compounding. (FWIW, I don't worry about Finishing Polish/Pads on anything but my show cars. Correcting Polish/Pads always gets me what I want on the daily drivers.) Based on @falcaineer's description, it sounds like the new Compound delivers results against damage that previously required Heavy Correcting Compound while finishing better than Correcting Polish, thanks to the chemical geniuses at Adam's!
  3. Ray's advice is solid. FWIW, however, I've detailed all the BMWs we've owned over the past 15yrs, including our current 2018 340ix M Sport, and have never had any problem using Adam's products (including undiluted APC) under the hood. It goes without saying you should only detail when the car (and engine) are cool, not in direct sunlight, and don't let the chemicals dry in place, as staining may result.
  4. Yes - that's the Dan you met and I agree, besides Adam himself, @Dan@Adams Txxxx is THE Adam's rep with whom I prefer to deal - hands down, the best!
  5. I've encountered minor color variations in several products over the years I've used Adam's chemicals. Such things are more common if/when the chemicals undergo large temperature transitions, as they might during shipment, if they're stored in a garage, etc. In my experience, such variations usually don't signal a product update, unless separately announced.
  6. Some pictures might help give you the best advice. +1. You can also mix & match pads/polishes (Heavy Correct on an Orange Pad, Correcting Polish on a Blue Pad, etc) for a little more/less correction, as needed.
  7. Interesting. I've had H2OGG separate, but never Wash & Wax. Shaking the H2OGG always recombines it, and it seems to work fine. Given the "couple years old" age of yours and the fact that it isn't recombining when shaken, it's probably time to replace it.
  8. FWIW, I've never covered anything and I've never had a problem, but I'm careful about where I spray water and what I let get wet. You should be fine if you use low pressure spray and stay away from the fuse box, electrical connections, and the air intake.
  9. +1. I've found all three products to work similarly on both Husky and WeatherTech mats.
  10. Yes but, assuming the liner is textured and not just hard plastic, it's manageable.
  11. Happy to TRY to help. Be careful as you escalate the aggressiveness of your tools - you don't want to make a bad situation worse! (Toward that end, I'd avoid the heat gun.) I cover my Shelby throughout the winter months, but it's tucked safely in the garage and the climate here is very dry, so I've never had a problem. If your car is stored outside, you definitely need to give things a chance to air-dry without being sandwiched against the paint. Your pool noodle plan might work but, another consideration when using a cover outside is wind. Over time the action of the wind moving the cover will cause marring/scratching on the paint. As if that's not bad enough, there's no way to keep a certain amount of dust/dirt from making its way under the cover (especially as water makes its way through) where it will increase the probability of paint damage. I'm not sure what kind of cover you have but, if covering the car outside is your only option, make sure it's a quality one designed for outdoor inclement weather use and that both the car and cover are clean every time you put it on.
  12. I was afraid that might be the case. I'm sure others will chime-in if they have other ideas, but I'm not aware of anything besides polishing/compounding or repainting to fix the issue. I hadn't heard it called "color correction" previously but, aside from the use of water rather than Detail Spray, that's a pretty typical paint correction.The biggest negative side-effect might have been marring from the clay bar, since water probably didn't lubricate it sufficiently. That would have been obvious while you were using the clay, and polishing should have removed the marring.
  13. Where are you located? "Seal my car... for winter" implies a colder climate? Assuming that's the case, I'd worry less about shine/gloss and go for something that provides better/longer-lasting protection. With that in mind, I recommend either a ceramic coating maintained with Ceramic Boost, or Paint Sealant maintained with H2O Guard & Gloss. I don't bother with wax or Detail Spray in the winter, since they're less durable than either of the previous options.
  14. I think you answered your own question - if you plan to (re-)coat the car, I wouldn't worry about what may or may not be there from the previous owner. Your observation of trim discoloration does point to probable waxing/sealing, rather than a ceramic coating. (You can clean-up the trim by scrubbing it with Tire & Rubber Cleaner on a Utility Towel.) For the rest of the car, I recommend a bath with Strip Wash (Dawn dish liquid also works, but SW is safer on rubber/plastic moldings.) and Iron Remover. FWIW, I always clay and polish before sealing/coating. If you're going to polish, a Clay Mitt is faster and easier than a clay bar. (If you're not going to polish, you may want to stick with less aggressive Fine Clay.) As I said, I recommend polishing after claying. Whether you polish or not, you'll want to wipe the car down with Surface Prep prior to coating. (Dilluted Isopropyl Alcohol also works, but SP smells and works better.) When that's complete, you're ready to (re-)coat.
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