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Found 12 results

  1. I have been contemplating doing the ceramic coating on my 2009 Infiniti G37. The vehicle has been taken care of however there are rock chips on the bumper and a couple on the hood that a pretty small. I am wondering if I would have to purchase touch up paint before ceramic coating or would it be safe and acceptable to go right over them with the coating. The next question is should I for go the coating and just buy the paste and boost and use those products instead? I am comfortable doing the prep work just having a hard time deciding what to do. Thanks everyone.
  2. EDIT: Dan@Adams indicated via chat today that I may have received the new formula, even though it shipped about a month ago. I just checked my bottle, and I did apply the new 9H formula. Here is a write up of my recent ceramic coating experience. I spent multiple days working on it, as others have shared. I started with a car that won its class at a car show based on “Show and Shine” the prior weekend, so I started with a pretty clean car. Even with that, I did a full detail and spent many hours on prep work. I will try to share some tips throughout that may help others - most of which I received or read here in the forums. I am relatively new to detailing, and not a professional. Day 1 - Rinsed car, foamed, rinsed, then did the 2 bucket wash with CS. Dried using great white drying towels. Clayed using DS and Visco Clay. I used a liberal amount of DS and really took my time hitting all painted surfaces. The car had fine scratches in the clear coat that were difficult to see in sunlight, but could be seen with bad garage lighting (more on the lighting later). Therefore, I used the SK Mini with orange pad and orange correcting polish over the whole car, after doing a test in a small area. The SK mini is awesome, and much easier to use in the tight areas of a C7. I had to perform 2 passes on a couple of areas to completely correct the finish. I would say this did about a 97% correction. I can still find a few very fine and shallow scratches in certain light, but the correction is pretty solid. I did this in the garage with the door closed (to minimize dust) with two overhead household light bulbs - evening and night. Not ideal lighting to say the least. These steps took 4-5 hours total. Day 2 - Checked the car over one more time for correction quality. I actually did one more pass on an area on the hood. I then got ready to coat. Per advice here on the forum, I decided to use Coating Prep spray on a section of the car, then coat, then spray prep, then coat, and so on. I did this to minimize dust, and specifically pollen as it is in season right now and difficult to keep off the car. I would suggest to others without a dust/pollen issue just to use coating prep spray on the whole car, and be thorough. I feel like doing a section, then coating almost caused me to miss the coating prep on a section or two as I got interrupted or distracted. I used the rubber gloves and started working in small 2x2 areas as suggested in the videos. I put four or five drops on the applicator at a time. My lighting was so poor, and my car is a dark metallic gray, that I never saw a rainbow effect. Another reason I may not have seen a rainbow effect quickly is that this was the new formula which allows for more time to wipe off. I didn’t know that at the time I applied it, I just waited 30-40 seconds then wiped off the coating. I did touch the surface once to see if it was tacky. I wiped that area off, but I actually left a fingerprint in the coating! If I had personal advice here, it would be to follow what others have said and use a couple of MF towels and be thorough knocking it down and removing the residue. Lighting played a role in me not leveling a couple of areas evenly. I did get greedy on some areas and tried to do a couple of larger sections - not a great idea as the residue was a little more difficult to remove in that case. Anywhere I got coating on the glass or vinyl stripes, I simply wiped them off immediately - no issues. This process took a few hours. Day 3 - After 24 hours, I applied Ceramic Boost. I followed what I saw on the videos, where Adam sprayed the small area a few sprays. Too much Ceramic Boost is a problem. It is not the easiest stuff to work with and leaves streaks when over used. Shane here on the forums in another thread gave advice to use one or two sprays per panel - I totally agree with that. I used too much and made my life difficult. I was very happy with the results, but had not pulled the car out of the garage yet during the day to inspect in better light. Day 4 - drove the car to work, and immediately noticed high spots and streaks in the coating, and found the fingerprint in the coating I mentioned above. I will say that BG is now one of my favorite Adam’s products. Based on advice here, and on the theory of using the least abrasive first to fix something, I used BG on several streaks and what appeared to be high spots on section overlaps, and a few spots that I just missed taking off the residue. It did a great job. On two or three other small spots I used the SK mini with a very small amount of Finish Polish and almost no pressure on the machine. This removed the finger print and a couple of other high spots with no problem. My one big bit of advice would be to use excellent lighting when doing this. If I had better lighting, I could have saved some after the fact work and done a better job the first time through. All in all, I am very happy with the results.
  3. Has anyone tried putting the new ceramic trim coating on tires? All my trim is coated, but it sure would be nice to have the same durable and gorgeous finish on my tires. Will it work and last?
  4. I apologize if this has been answered in the past... A few weeks ago I did a full detail on my '15 STI to include my first application of Adam's ceramic paint and trim coating. It's time for the first wash now though... Which car wash would be recommended, the shampoo or the wash & wax? I feel like my whole routine may be changing... I used to dry with detail spray and put on some Patriot Wax or use the H20 G&G to dry...
  5. So, it's time to do a full detail the boy's '07 Xterra (Off Road). Of course, it's his daily, sits outside all the time, but it is dark grey and shows well when all "done up." But since he no longer lives at home, his wash routine is...lacking...to say the least. And he rightfully loves to enjoy the back roads of Colorado, often taking it off-roading, fishing, camping, skiing, etc. So it's generally dirty, and he admittedly likes it that way. Bottom line, though, it needs protection from just about everything out there. My question: do I invest in coatings? I have polishes and sealant on hand and only have the car for a limited time, so I may wait until next time. But what are your thoughts for the future?
  6. So I know what I did. I coated my car with a non Adam's coating. I had an $80 bottle that was laying around about to expire, so I said what the hey... I should probably use it. The product I used is amazing stuff. Has a 2 year life with proper maintenance of the coating. I still have well over 1 year left on it. What did I do to my car? With the coating that I installed, I can't use waxes/polishes/glazes. Anything on top of the coating will effect the hydrophobic properties of the coating itself. The advantage of the coating is low maintenance (i.e. no waxing and easier washing), but this disadvantage is NO WAXING. I thoroughly enjoy waxing on a bi-weekly/monthly basis. I am missing out on the loving touches to my car. I must live vicariously through everyone else on this forum on all the new products. I REALLY want to try the new Patriot wax, but I can't justify polishing all my hard work off the paint. I spent 14 hours washing, claying, polishing, and coating. I love the look of the coating, but I dislike that I can't use anything over it. What other products are a must try? I don't have the waterless wash. Is it fairly good? I do have almost every Adam's exterior product including a lot of the interior products. Does anyone else have any experience with a non Adam's coating and products that work well with it? I don't need detail spray as a drying aid because the coating works that good. The glass sealant I could try. Any recommendations from my fellow Adam's connoisseurs?!
  7. Im getting new wheels and i already have the adams ceramic coating kit. I seen others talk about coating thier wheels and it seems like a great idea however, in the video he talks about it getting sticky and using boost every now and then. Im thinking sticky coating and break dust would be a nightmare. Is this a thing or is it just using the boost after first application and then the stickyness dosnt return? Thanks,
  8. I started a topic about Adam's Coating and the possibility of this happening. My thread was deleted. How does this happen??
  9. Hello All! I know that Adam's has Paint Sealant that's easy to use. The question I've seen come up a couple times regarding a "coating". A long lasting ceramic type coating. I've heard that it's possible that the Adam's team might be working on one. I really want to know... Does anyone have a little inside information? Am I the only one who would like to see Adam's come up with a paint coating?
  10. I was planning to do this write-up to pass along some tips, but ended up re-learning some things myself! My son is home from school for the holidays and his car is due for a reapplication of a coating. A coating works best on his car, as it is rarely washed when he is not home and it lasts longer than PS. I started with a good cleaning of the fuel filler area with diluted APC (1:1) and a old lug nut brush. Then it was on to the wheels & tires. The tires are new, so they did not take much work, and the rear wheels (drum brakes) cleaned up with premixed Car Wash Shampoo in a bottle with a foaming sprayer. Tip #1 (I am probably going to regret numbering these later!) Part of this detail is a polish, so while I was cleaning the rear wheels, I wet the rear quarter panels and cleaned them with diluted APC (1:1) and a Fender Brush to remove any road grime. I also did both the rear bumper and the area below the belt line the same way. The wash was next. I rinsed the car with a strong stream of water, and tried to flush out as many leaves as possible from the trunk lip. As you can see the coating applied 30 months ago is almost gone. I added 3 oz. of APC to the Car Wash Shampoo and started the wash. I used the Wash Mitt and a bug sponge from the auto parts store. Tip #2 Because I am older (or just lazy) I often use my work platform as a stand for the wash and rinse buckets. As is suggested I did a pooling rinse after the wash. It kind of does not make sense, but adding MORE water actually gets the car drier! I hit the door mirrors and a few other spots with the Blaster Sidekick, misted the car with DS, and dried it with a GWDT. (Oh, and sorry for the Crocs shot, but they are the best detailing footwear for a warm climate!) I use a piece of old hose on the end of my garden hose to do my pool rinse. Next up: the headlights. These lights are just a little hazed so they only required a polish. My tools - a corded drill, a older green 4" Focus pad, and CP. Before Taped Tip #3 - I put a old, large MF towel under the hood to allow more room to work and to help keep any polishing dust from getting in the engine compartment, And After And the after of the pad! On with the polishing! Tip #4 As this is a daily driver, I used old, beatup orange foam pads to polish below the beltline and both bumpers. No need to spend a lot of time on this area, and since these are my least favorite areas to polish, I did them first to get it out of the way. Tip #5 I tape sunroof weather stripping and black trim to help keep the pads cleaner. I also tape emblems to prevent them tearing the pads. I polished the remainder of the car with a MF pad and CP. With this car I can correct and finish with one pad and polish combo, With each section pass I make 4 movements with pressure and a high speed, then end with 2 movements with no pressure at a lower speed. Tip #6 When using MF pads they should be primed with polish before using. I use a popsicle (or craft) stick for this. The stick gets the polish more evenly disbursed than you finger will! I was not able to get the before and after correction shots to come out on camera. The difference could be seen in person, but I could not get them to show up 'on film'. I completed the polishing late in the day, and due to the holiday visits I was not able to get back to the car for several days. When I did get back to it I did a quick Rinseless wash, but noticed some polish residue I missed in the dark. I tried APC, but it did not remove the residue. Then I remembered Revive! Tip #7 Revive Hand Polish is a great paint cleaner, and when I put it on the hex grip applicator and rubbed it over the dried polish, it came right off. Whew! What a great product to have in your collection. After the wash I sprayed and wiped each panel with IPA to prep for the coating. I applied the coating and left the car in the garage for 3 hours to let it cure. Here is the finished result...not too bad!
  11. What are thoughts on coatings such as CQuartz or Modesta instead of standard wax and sealants? Wondering if it might be good for me seeing as how I can not wax or seal my car (no upper body strength) Is that stuff bad? Only look good initially? Pros and cons? Thanks all.
  12. So I'm sure most of you guys have seen/used ceramic coatings. Being a big fan of Adam's and all their wonderful products, I would personally love to see them take on making one of these products. What do you guys think? Personally I would love to see them expand their market. Truitt
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