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Found 17 results

  1. Hi all first time here and first time poster.quick question,. Im in Australia and just got hold of some products here and loving them. Just experimenting with layering. At present I use a Sealent then Buttery Wax then detail spray when I wash my car. My question is should I use H20 or Brilliant Glaze after buttery Wax every coupe washes then detail spray? thanks all!!
  2. Hey guys I would like to know if anyone here is familiar with Griot's Poly Wax which is a sealant and if so how does it compare to Adams paint sealant? I've been reading that it does last much longer than the Adams Paint Sealant. Would I be able to use the guard & gloss over Griot's Poly Wax? I'm trying to decide whether I should go with Poly Wax or Adams Paint Sealant under Adams G&G. Thank you
  3. I pulled out my new 15mm Swirl Killer this evening after washing my 2003 Blue Eurovan with strip wash using my foam cannon. I only used the polisher on the front hood and took my time. After claying the hood I started with the heavy correcting polish and blue pad, then I used the correcting polish with the orange pad, then finishing polish and white pad. I ended with sealant and the grey pad. I plan on using buttery wax to make it really shine. So far it looks great, and fun to do. My questions are- Should I take every step that I did above? Can I go from heavy correcting polish to finishing polish, and skip correcting polish? Should I make more passes with different polishes? How many passes should I make? Should I apply pressure to the polisher with any of the polishes? Thank for the help, Kevin
  4. We all have that friend that doesn't take care of their car. The ones that make us OCD perfectionists cringe and wince in pain. I have one of these friends, and decided to give him a bottle of Liquid paint sealant this past christmas to use on his truck. Its a 2005 dodge ram with black paint, that at the time, was just beginning to show signs of clear coat failure since it has lived, and continues to live, its life out doors. He washed his truck right after christmas, clayed it, and applied liquid paint sealant to the drivers side of the truck before deciding that this whole detailing thing was just too much work, leaving the rest of the truck unprotected. Fast forward to today (june aka six months later) he shows up at my house. His truck hasn't been washed since december when he applied the liquid paint sealant, so I decide to take matters into my own hands and wash the dang thing so I can sleep at night... THIS my friends, is the ultimate test of Adams Liquid paint sealant. The photos you are about to see are of six month old Adam's liquid paint sealant that was hastily applied, and after application, the vehicle was not washed for SIX MONTHS, and lived the entirety of those six months outdoors. The sealant has seen rain, mud, dust, lots of southern California sun, and a ton of miles since application, but the stuff still beads water. I was completely amazed. This is the side with NO sealant. (note the water is in a sheet) Untitled by Andrew Villablanca, on Flickr Untitled by Andrew Villablanca, on Flickr This is the side WITH six month old Adams liquid paint sealant: (note the beading) Untitled by Andrew Villablanca, on Flickr Untitled by Andrew Villablanca, on Flickr
  5. Hey everyone. Need some advice here on with the issue I'm having using Adam's New Liquid Paint Sealant. Sorry long post. The sealant does not come off easy, my goodness it is a chore. Here's how I used it a few different ways too. Started off with just the hood and only the hood. Cleaned the hood using ONR, Clay barred using ONR with Adam's Visco clay, wiped cleaned with Adam's microfiber towel. Applied sealant on a foam finishing pad with my DA per the bottle directions. Applied to small section of the hood on speed 3. Went on ok, but it seamed to gum/dry up on certain areas fairly quick. Those areas were a pain to remove, it helped come off if I applied some more sealant to those areas. Thinking I used too much product I tried again with less product, application just gets worse. I ditched the DA and used the Adam's microfiber applicator, again followed the directions and same results. Tried working in even smaller sections, no luck. Now I thought maybe it's not liking ONR that might be left on the surface. So did an alcohol wipe down for the rest of the hood and still the same issue. Removal of the stuff is a major pain. I then ditched the microfiber applicator and went with a foam hand applicator, to me it applied better with the foam. End results again were the same having to go back and fight areas of the sealant that were extremely stubborn to remove. I tried leaving it on per the directions, less that a couple of minutes and even removing quickly after applying. Tried less product, a little bit more product. I couldn't win. Having to go back and see areas where sealant was still on my hood was starting to make me crazy lol. This was in the late evening around 7pm. Cool weather and surface, sun going down and completely in the shade. Please help! I have years of detailing under my belt, so I'm not new to this. But any tips, advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading!
  6. marauder

    DSC 0089

    From the album: Daily Driver -GTI

    Car just after a nice detail with Adam's Clay, Compound, Polish and Sealant.
  7. I started a topic about Adam's Coating and the possibility of this happening. My thread was deleted. How does this happen??
  8. I recently watched a video where warm water is used with the RW method. Is there any risk that warm water (~100F) can degrade or strip existing wax/sealant? If not, at roughly what temperature will this be an issue? Thanks.
  9. Hello All! I know that Adam's has Paint Sealant that's easy to use. The question I've seen come up a couple times regarding a "coating". A long lasting ceramic type coating. I've heard that it's possible that the Adam's team might be working on one. I really want to know... Does anyone have a little inside information? Am I the only one who would like to see Adam's come up with a paint coating?
  10. Adam’s Polishes Winter Prep on a 2016 GMC Denali Hello everyone my name is Charlie, I recently started detailing at Adam’s Headquarters in Louisville, CO. My goal is to post write-up’s of the detail’s in order to (A) show you what Adam’s amazing products are capable of, and ( help answer any and all questions you may have about the product and how to use it. The first few write-ups may not be perfect as I have never documented my own work before. So please chime in giving me any pointers or ideas you would like to me to show in the future. I hope you enjoy. This customer recently picked up this beautiful GMC Denali from McCaddon in Boulder, and by recently I mean there were 700 miles on the vehicle. So he called headquarters and requested an exterior new vehicle/ winter prep. Smart guy if you ask me, getting your vehicle protected shortly after delivery is key. When he dropped off the vehicle I was handed the keys and got to work. These are some photos to show you what I was working with. Please excuse the sideways photos Wheels/Tires/Fenders I proceed to start the washing process (as you should always do first) with the wheels tires and fenders doing one half of the vehicle at a time. For this step I used Deep Wheel Cleaner, All Purpose Cleaner, a wheel woolie (black), a wheel brush (red), a fender brush (grey), a tire brush (blue) and a lug nut brush (red). With everything still dry I sprayed down the face and barrels of the wheels with Deep Wheel, and then the fenders and tires with All Purpose. Remember to not let the Deep Wheel Cleaner sit on the wheels very long, a maximum of 4 minutes before rinsing. When the Deep Wheel reacts with the brake dust it turns purple. So don't scrub them immediately. I scrubbed the face of the wheels with the wheel brush (red) and the lug brush (red handle). Then continued to scrub the barrels with the wheel woolie (black). Once the wheels were done, I scrubbed the fenders using the fender brush (grey) and the tire brush (blue). Finally I rinsed everything and continued to the other side of the Denali. Wash On to the hand wash, first I prepped my buckets as well as my foam gun. In my clean soap bucket I put a new wash pad into the bottom and added about 2-3 oz of Adam’s Car Shampoo directly onto the pad and then filled it with clean water. As for my rinse bucket, well I filled it up with clean water obviously. Now to prep the Adam’s Polishes Foam Gun for ultimate suds action, I added about 2-3 oz of Car Shampoo to the reservoir and filled the rest with warm water. Starting the wash process I rinsed the car with water to remove as many contaminants as possible. Then came the fun part, the Foam Gun. I Sprayed the whole vehicle down with the foam gun lathering it with suds in order to make optimal lubrication to reduce the risk of scratches. After the vehicle was drenched with soap I grabbed the wash pad and started scrubbing. When you soap a vehicle you should always wash top down using only straight line motions, never use circular motions. Reason being, straight scratches are easier to buff out as opposed to circular scratches. Also, always rinse the wash pad every couple of panels depending on how dirty the car is and save the bottom third of the car for last or use a different wash pad for these areas as they are always the dirtiest. The less contaminates in the wash pad, the better. When rising the wash pad, I dunk it in the rinse bucket, scrub one side on the grit guard then flip it and scrub the other side followed by ringing out the water before dunking it back in the soap bucket. These extra simple steps can make a huge difference in quality of your paint after just one wash or a one hundred washes. When I was done soaping this huge GMC Denali I rinsed the entire vehicle off. Then I proceeded to the scary step, drying the vehicle. Drying Once the car was completely rinsed of all soap, I grabbed a bottle of Adam’s detail spray. I sprayed it all over the entire vehicle, to add lubrication for the drying towel. Drying a car is almost guaranteed to leave minor scratches so adding detail spray greatly reduces the odds. When the car was covered in detail spray, I grabbed a Great White drying towel and starting with the roof and working my way down. When using the towel I applied very light pressure to avoid as many scratches as possible. Using only straight motions (no turns with the towel) I used one side to pick up the majority of the water, then I flipped the towel using the other side to pick up the remaining water thus leaving a streak free finish. Also the reason for only using straight motions; it’s more difficult to see straight scratches and they are more easy to polish out. Continue this process until the entire vehicle is complete. Clay Bar After drying the car it was time to clay it. Yes that's right even a vehicle with only 700 miles needs to be clayed. So to start out I checked how rough the paint was using a plastic bag. Using a plastic bag increases your sense of touch. So, very lightly I moved my hand in a plastic bag over the paint, checking all panels. The flat surfaces were worse than the vertical surfaces, most likely from sitting on the dealership's lot. After checking the surfaces I grabbed the Big Blue Clay Bar and inspected it to make sure it was clean and ready to use. I stretched the clay to about the size of my palm and made sure it was flat by pressing it against the paint (shown below). Then using Adam’s Detail Spray (You should probably buy a gallon of this ) I sprayed a couple mists on the panel to lubricate the clay bar to give you an idea of how much detail spray there is a photo below. Again using medium pressure and straight lines, I clayed the surfaces after every few panels you will want to flip the clay inside out to get a fresh surface. Just remember to keep the surface lubricated, the clay should slide across the panel like butter in a pan. You don't have to wipe off the panels until you are done. Also, if you drop the clay bar, DO NOT REUSE IT THROW IT AWAY even if it looks fine, it’s not. Polishing Once I had finished claying the Denali, it was time to check for swirls and do some correcting. The car was in pretty good shape but there were some minor swirls on the GMC as shown below. I these are small enough swirls that Adam’s Paint Finishing Polish could take care of them, there was no need for Correcting Polish. My polisher choice was the Cyclo, because I didn't need to do a lot of correcting and the Cyclo covers a large surface area because of the two 4 inch pads. I put 4 dots on each white pad and a mist of detail spray to each pad to add lubrication. Once the pads were prepped I put the machine on the paint and turned the speed to 2. Then turned the machine “on” just to spread the polish around in about a 4 square foot area (2x2). Then turned the machine off and changed to speed to 5. When polishing you want to use cross hatching technique overlapping about 50% each time (shown below). Once i fished the first panel I wiped the polish residue and inspected the paint, this was to make sure the Paint Finishing Polish did the job. Don't forget this step and do the whole car, then realize that you didn't use a heavier polish. I don't add very much pressure to the machine because you want make sure the pads are spinning as well as oscillating. Sometimes it helps to mark the pad with a straight line using a sharpie on the side. If the pad is not spinning this means you are applying too much pressure or holding the machine at an angle. I polished over each section about 2-3 times, cross hatching each time until the polish was fully broken down. When fully broken down the polish should look oily almost like Vaseline. You should only have to reapply polish every other panel. If you spray the pad to lubricate it and dab it on the panel you should see some polish on there (it looks white). If not you can reapply polish, two dollops should be enough. Here is the finished product.
  11. Ok, I know that I will need to let the paint cure completely, 2-3 months, before I even think about waxing the new paint job. While Im waiting, I plan on washing, and detailing using detailing spray. My question is, once I am ready to wax the paint job, what should I use? I got confused when it came to sealants, buttery wax, or the paste wax. I guess Id like to also know if there are multiple products recommended, in what order do you suggest I use them? Thank you all in advance. I started using Adams Polishes about 3 years ago, and purchase most of the items through my local dealer...but Im an Adams customer for life. Amazing stuff. Rex
  12. Hello Adam's Forum Members (AFMs) and new comers, Here is a quick post regarding my first full usage of my new glass cleaner and sealant (other than on my car's windows). I apologize in advance as I didn't see the "other" category until after making this post. Just thought Glass cleaner and sealant went with the interior category. I have 2 end tables and a coffee table that all have glass tops. I decided to give the glass cleaner and sealant a try on them since they are all "tempered glass". The results are AWESOME!!!! Now I will note that each table has some scratches in the glass (due to 3 house moves in moving trucks). But you can barely tell with the cleaner and sealant. I LOVE these products. I did NOT however clay the surface before sealant. I didn't have time. Just clean and seal. This photo is of a pretreated glass piece (scratches didn't show up well) This is a piece after treatment. (particles are some light scratches that were not hidden in the sealant and dust) They are so useful and create such a dramatic change that I got my family interested in Adam's products after this trial run. I just posted an unboxing of my newest order in that section which includes a glass cleaning collection and extra glass sealant. The family wanted me to order it up so we (as a family) could clean and seal ALL exterior and interior windows of our house.
  13. "What is the difference between wax and sealant?" "Should I use a wax or a sealant on my car?" "Can I use a wax and a sealant if I want to?" "Does Adam's have a synthetic or polymer wax?" And here it is, the next in my series of FAQ threads that answer the questions we get asked most on the forums, emails, and over the phone. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A WAX AND A SEALANT? Its a question you've no doubt seen posted here or on any other number of forums when a newcomer to detailing is feeling out their first purchase or trying to make the best choice for their car. Given that there are so many products and product types on the market its certainly easy for someone to get confused. Lets start with the basics - THE DIFFERENCES - Both "wax" and "sealant" are designed to do essentially the same thing, that is to serve as a sacrificial barrier between your paint and the elements. Both products provide a microscopic coating on the surface to prevent, or at least slow, the effects of the elements. Secondary to this is their ability to enhance or impart some aesthetic change/enhancement to the paint. How they go about accomplishing this task and what they're comprised of (ingredients) is where they begin to be different. Its that composition that allows them to have different strengths and weaknesses. WAX begins its life as part of a particular type of palm tree. Carnauba wax comes in a variety of grades and purities. Its blended with oils, other wax types (like bees wax), and in some cases even some polymers to create car wax. Carnauba in and of itself is a hard crumbly substance - so don't believe the hype of any product claiming to be "100% Carnauba" it would be virtually impossible to apply to your car if it were. Without blending carnauba is not car wax. While blending all these components together can give you virtually an infinite number of varieties and types of car wax there are some limitations. "Wax" in general will be highly susceptible to heat and detergents (relatively speaking) meaning harsh cleaners and hot weather will shorten the amount of time the wax remains intact on your car. Even the very best waxes will begin to evaporate at extreme temperatures making the summer months in climates like AZ or NV ideal for killing your wax job prematurely. On the positive side waxes (on average) will offer aesthetic enhancement including added depth, gloss, and even filling properties that help hide some imperfections. The 'rich' or 'deep' look on a black paint job will most often be enhanced the most by a high quality carnauba wax. These properties make wax the ideal solution for a car that is garaged, doesn't see an excessive amount of mileage, or is a show car. ***** SEALANTS on the other hand are synthetic. A man made concoction of chemical engineering designed to do any number of things. Because these products are essentially 'born in a test tube' they can be modified, customized, and blended to meet any number of criteria and perform in different ways. Sealants (on average) are going to offer you more durability than a comparable wax product. They offer much higher heat resistance, detergent resistance, and longer lasting protection. This makes them ideal for use on your daily driver, a vehicle kept outside full time, or a vehicle you are more concerned with protecting with minimal maintenance. The trade off is that sealants tend to offer far less aesthetic benefit. Thats not to say that they will make your car 'shine less' but you won't see that deep-wet look you more commonly associate with a high quality wax product. Sealants are more often going to provide a very bright, reflective type of shine. This makes them great for colors like white and silver. THE RIGHT PRODUCT FOR YOUR CAR - While there is no easy answer for this question its easy to use some basic criteria to weight pros vs. cons and pick a product that best suits your needs. A vehicle that's daily driven, not garaged, or exposed to harsh weather will be the perfect candidate for sealant. The longer lasting protection at minimal sacrifice to "looks" makes it the way to go. A vehicle that's more pampered, garaged, shown regularly, or lives in a mild climate would benefit most from a wax product. The protection will be sufficient with even the most basic of waxes, but the added depth if thats the goal is still there. LAYERING PRODUCTS - Maybe you want the best of both worlds or you just enjoy rubbing on your car. A layered approach might be for you. Many customers and enthusiasts will chose to use BOTH a wax and a sealant to care for their paint and its certainly a great option. Like building a house you always want to start with a strong foundation, thus Adam's recommends our products be applied SEALANT FIRST / WAX SECOND. The less durable layer (wax) on top can then provide a layer of protection and in the event its removed by the elements your sealant is still there to play backup. OPINIONS ARE LIKE.... WELL, YA KNOW - You'll no doubt read a crazy amount of reviews and feedback from various sources if you start to research products for your car. While it can be helpful understand that every situation is different and what works for one guy might not work for you. Every car sees a slightly different 'life'... how its washed, how often its washed, where its kept, what kind of mileage it sees, the climate, other products used to wipe it down, etc - these are all components that can determine how long a wax or a sealant will last. Never take anyones feedback or a products claims as a hard/fast rule that will apply to you. Longevity can be better or worse depending on what your particular situation is. There are certainly those out there who will try to claim that there is no difference, or that 100% of a cars finished appearance comes from polishing alone. Consider the source when making decisions, and while the aesthetic differences from one wax to another or wax versus sealant might be subtle they are there. Choose a product that strikes a balance for your needs for enhancement and protection. CURRENT OFFERINGS FROM ADAM'S (updated January 2014) Buttery Wax - Blend product that features both wax and synthetic components. Extremely easy to use, limited durability. Excellent for people who wax frequently and want a product that's cost effective, yet performs very well. Quick Sealant - Aerosol product that is super fast and easy to apply. Offers excellent durability, but very little if any enhancement to the look of paint. Great for someone looking for protection for all surfaces as it is very easy to appy to wheels as well. Americana Paste Wax - Premium wax blend that offers excellent durability (for a wax) as well as great enhancement to the look of paint. A great compromise that offers high marks for longevity and beauty. Liquid Paint Sealant - Our latest synthetic formulation, offers the longest lasting protection of any of our products and excellent aesthetic enhancement (for a sealant). Very easy to apply. Patriot Wax (Limited Edition) - Maximizes enhancement and provides fair protection, this product is designed for 'show' more than anything else. Produces the richest, deepest shine. Patriot Wax is an experience just as much as it is a wax product.
  14. Decided to try the new products today (rinseless wash, 2 step polish, microfiber pads, liquid sealant) on my black vehicle. The car had bad water stains from my sprinklers and heavy surface scratches from automatic carwashes and washing with a brush in the past. It's a 2010 Ford Crown Victoria and has never been corrected or even waxed in the area mentioned. I have corrected and waxed the trunk, hood, and quarter panels. Today I chose to hit the passenger rear body panel behind the back door. It's a police vehicle so it has 911 decals and such, which make it a bit difficult to hit it with the large pads and the flex. I chose to use the focus pads on my drill to make it easier and prevent any damage to the decals. First I did the entire car with rinseless wash using the 2 bucket system and a double soft towel. Then I used some WW and a clay bar to clean up the project area. The clay bar had some brown residue on it, which I'm guessing is the water rust stains. After the clay I dried the area using a SS towel, and did a pass with IPA, then dried again with SS towel. Now that the area was clean, it was time to get to work. I haven't used the microfiber pads as of yet, so this was my first time. I started with the orange pad/orange polish, and did a pass until it flashed. While the results were very impressive, I went for another pass just to see how far I could take it. After the second pass, it looked even better. Next I went with the white pad/white polish to finish it out. It looked like glass after those passes, and unfortunately it got dark outside and my work light overheated (South Fla). Once I got the finishing polish to flash I did a pass with IPA to clean the surface. Next I used the 4" sealant applicator pad and the new liquid sealant- I must say, that stuff adds a really nice pop/shine to the surface, and goes on/off really easy. I let that sit for about an hour (per the instructions on the bottle) while I finished putting up some Xmas lights. Came back and hit it with a layer of BG and APW for the face melter. Sorry to say but with it being so late I didn't get any pics of the finished product, but I will get some tomorrow. It did rain tonight, so I'll take a look at the area tomorrow and get some pics. I did get a pic or two of the area prior to starting. The finished area looked great and I was really pleased with the results of the microfiber pads, two step polish, and the liquid sealant. I have found myself saying "how the heck can Adams Polishes make anything better"? All the products seem to work great, it's hard to see where they could improve. But you guys are doing a great job at improving what already works well.
  15. SO sorry if this has already been addressed, but here goes. I have seen several products 'claim' to provide protection from oxidation caused by solar rays - almost like an SPF factor for your paint. First of all, is there any truth to that at all? Do some sealants provide legitimate protection from oxidation and fading? If yes, does Machine Super Sealant provide specific protection against sun damage? How about americana or other carnuba based waxes? THANK YOU!
  16. I am new to Adam's and this forum, but have done a lot of research. I have read that Adam does not recommend the flex for applying sealant and glaze because it is a DA. As far as i know, the Rupes Bigfoot is a RO like the PC is. I havent been able to find anything on the subject, but do you think the Rupes would be as effective as the PC is for applying sealant and glaze? Because if it is, I might go with that machine. Seems like it would combine the best qualities of both the flex and PC Thanks, Taylor
  17. Hey guys! I'm posting up this VERY short video I took on 05/22/13 to show you some AQS beading... I put on two applications of Adams Quick Sealant at the beginning of September 2012, drove my car all winter in IA, where it sits outside all day and this is the beading effect I got AFTER using a coin op pre-soak soap, and high pressure soap wash prior to my spring detail 5/22/13. During the winter months I only do a straight water rinse at the coin-op to get the salt and sand off the car. Color me impressed!!! Adams Quick Sealant is quick on, quick to remove and MAN does it LAST!! 8 months isn't bad! This is just a quick video, as I had my hands full! After this wash, I hand washed with two buckets and three wash pads and spent 8 hours claying it, correcting the upper surfaces of the car, and of course, topped it all off with Adams Quick Sealant. More to come once I get my RAM to drive. What am I trying to say you ask? BUY AND USE AQS!!!! Top it with Americana and Patriot if you must, but USE AQS if you have a DD and want long term protection. Make sure to choose 720P! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vmqo2-R3VbE&feature=em-upload_owner
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