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Found 13 results

  1. Hey guys, a month ago I started using a foam cannon and did use the regular shampoo and DS couple of times but last weekend I decided to use a sample packet of ultra foam I received in a mystery box along with a new Pumpkin Spice DS and I'm seeing a shine that has me baffled. My car looks like it has been polished. My car was coated with G&G few months ago but I've never seen the shine this good. I thought it was the lighting but it's not, after inspecting it for 2 days and I'm receiving comments from others. I'm trying to figure out if it's coming from the ultra foam or the Spice DS. Is the Spice any different from regular DS? I plan to use the regular shampoo next weekend with the Spice DS to find out but until then, what are your thoughts on Ultra Foam? Have you noticed any difference?
  2. What method do you recommend for cleaning polishing pads?
  3. Hi new here. Not a professional. Are the the correct steps as follows. Wash clay polish seal glaze wax if using one step can I put a coat of sealant over the one step , then glaze and wax thank you
  4. Hello everyone, I recently purchased a 67 Camaro SS/RS. It was restored about 5-6 years ago, and was repainted (so paint is a two stage paint). I just had it detailed recently, as the paint had been neglected quite a bit when I bought it (bunch of swirls and water marks). While I had someone do the 'big' reset detail, I plan to do the upkeep (washing, LSPs, occasional polish, etc) myself as I do on my daily driver. So my question is regarding what's the best way to maintenance wash a classic car? I've read in a few places to avoid 2BM or other methods that use a lot of water, since the water can end up all over the place and potentially lead to rust, and to instead only use waterless wash. Don't get me wrong, I have Adams Waterless Wash and am a fan, but wouldn't using waterless wash as your primary maintenance wash method lead to swirls? Maybe it's worth a few swirls in order to avoid the risk of flooding the car with water and it getting into all the nooks and crannies of the car? Curious what people here think / recommend. Here's a pic of the car, having been freshly detailed:
  5. I apologize if this has been answered in the past... A few weeks ago I did a full detail on my '15 STI to include my first application of Adam's ceramic paint and trim coating. It's time for the first wash now though... Which car wash would be recommended, the shampoo or the wash & wax? I feel like my whole routine may be changing... I used to dry with detail spray and put on some Patriot Wax or use the H20 G&G to dry...
  6. Hey all, I have two of Adams Ultra Plush Drying Towel and all I can say is WOW! This towel dries everything! I dries a Ford Expedition with just one towel without ringing it out! Ok now off to my question.. I used this towel on four cars with detail spray on different days and in between I let the towel hang dry. I figured it was time to wash the towel to I pre soaked in warm water and microfiber revitalizer to get the detail spray off. After soaking I squeezed dry and threw it into a dryer and low heat. Now it seems to be coming apart slightly. I must have done something wrong. I attached two photos of what I mean and this is in multiple locations on the towel. What is the proper way to clean and dry Adams Ultra Plush Drying Towel? Thank you all!
  7. I like to take care of my Adam's towels for obvious reasons, and I use MBR and liquid All Free & Clear for washes. I still have some big box store towels laying around, though, so can I wash them all together? Crazy question, but there's no danger of..."MF transfer"...is there? P.S. Before anyone panics, I only use the box box store ones for non-paint work. I don't have enough utility towels just yet.
  8. Is there a reason to use the Adam's strip wash? I have always used dawn typically for stripping before paint correction. What benefit is there to buying a dedicated strip wash vs other methods like APC/shampoo or dawn?
  9. Adam’s Polishes Winter Prep on a 2016 GMC Denali Hello everyone my name is Charlie, I recently started detailing at Adam’s Headquarters in Louisville, CO. My goal is to post write-up’s of the detail’s in order to (A) show you what Adam’s amazing products are capable of, and ( help answer any and all questions you may have about the product and how to use it. The first few write-ups may not be perfect as I have never documented my own work before. So please chime in giving me any pointers or ideas you would like to me to show in the future. I hope you enjoy. This customer recently picked up this beautiful GMC Denali from McCaddon in Boulder, and by recently I mean there were 700 miles on the vehicle. So he called headquarters and requested an exterior new vehicle/ winter prep. Smart guy if you ask me, getting your vehicle protected shortly after delivery is key. When he dropped off the vehicle I was handed the keys and got to work. These are some photos to show you what I was working with. Please excuse the sideways photos Wheels/Tires/Fenders I proceed to start the washing process (as you should always do first) with the wheels tires and fenders doing one half of the vehicle at a time. For this step I used Deep Wheel Cleaner, All Purpose Cleaner, a wheel woolie (black), a wheel brush (red), a fender brush (grey), a tire brush (blue) and a lug nut brush (red). With everything still dry I sprayed down the face and barrels of the wheels with Deep Wheel, and then the fenders and tires with All Purpose. Remember to not let the Deep Wheel Cleaner sit on the wheels very long, a maximum of 4 minutes before rinsing. When the Deep Wheel reacts with the brake dust it turns purple. So don't scrub them immediately. I scrubbed the face of the wheels with the wheel brush (red) and the lug brush (red handle). Then continued to scrub the barrels with the wheel woolie (black). Once the wheels were done, I scrubbed the fenders using the fender brush (grey) and the tire brush (blue). Finally I rinsed everything and continued to the other side of the Denali. Wash On to the hand wash, first I prepped my buckets as well as my foam gun. In my clean soap bucket I put a new wash pad into the bottom and added about 2-3 oz of Adam’s Car Shampoo directly onto the pad and then filled it with clean water. As for my rinse bucket, well I filled it up with clean water obviously. Now to prep the Adam’s Polishes Foam Gun for ultimate suds action, I added about 2-3 oz of Car Shampoo to the reservoir and filled the rest with warm water. Starting the wash process I rinsed the car with water to remove as many contaminants as possible. Then came the fun part, the Foam Gun. I Sprayed the whole vehicle down with the foam gun lathering it with suds in order to make optimal lubrication to reduce the risk of scratches. After the vehicle was drenched with soap I grabbed the wash pad and started scrubbing. When you soap a vehicle you should always wash top down using only straight line motions, never use circular motions. Reason being, straight scratches are easier to buff out as opposed to circular scratches. Also, always rinse the wash pad every couple of panels depending on how dirty the car is and save the bottom third of the car for last or use a different wash pad for these areas as they are always the dirtiest. The less contaminates in the wash pad, the better. When rising the wash pad, I dunk it in the rinse bucket, scrub one side on the grit guard then flip it and scrub the other side followed by ringing out the water before dunking it back in the soap bucket. These extra simple steps can make a huge difference in quality of your paint after just one wash or a one hundred washes. When I was done soaping this huge GMC Denali I rinsed the entire vehicle off. Then I proceeded to the scary step, drying the vehicle. Drying Once the car was completely rinsed of all soap, I grabbed a bottle of Adam’s detail spray. I sprayed it all over the entire vehicle, to add lubrication for the drying towel. Drying a car is almost guaranteed to leave minor scratches so adding detail spray greatly reduces the odds. When the car was covered in detail spray, I grabbed a Great White drying towel and starting with the roof and working my way down. When using the towel I applied very light pressure to avoid as many scratches as possible. Using only straight motions (no turns with the towel) I used one side to pick up the majority of the water, then I flipped the towel using the other side to pick up the remaining water thus leaving a streak free finish. Also the reason for only using straight motions; it’s more difficult to see straight scratches and they are more easy to polish out. Continue this process until the entire vehicle is complete. Clay Bar After drying the car it was time to clay it. Yes that's right even a vehicle with only 700 miles needs to be clayed. So to start out I checked how rough the paint was using a plastic bag. Using a plastic bag increases your sense of touch. So, very lightly I moved my hand in a plastic bag over the paint, checking all panels. The flat surfaces were worse than the vertical surfaces, most likely from sitting on the dealership's lot. After checking the surfaces I grabbed the Big Blue Clay Bar and inspected it to make sure it was clean and ready to use. I stretched the clay to about the size of my palm and made sure it was flat by pressing it against the paint (shown below). Then using Adam’s Detail Spray (You should probably buy a gallon of this ) I sprayed a couple mists on the panel to lubricate the clay bar to give you an idea of how much detail spray there is a photo below. Again using medium pressure and straight lines, I clayed the surfaces after every few panels you will want to flip the clay inside out to get a fresh surface. Just remember to keep the surface lubricated, the clay should slide across the panel like butter in a pan. You don't have to wipe off the panels until you are done. Also, if you drop the clay bar, DO NOT REUSE IT THROW IT AWAY even if it looks fine, it’s not. Polishing Once I had finished claying the Denali, it was time to check for swirls and do some correcting. The car was in pretty good shape but there were some minor swirls on the GMC as shown below. I these are small enough swirls that Adam’s Paint Finishing Polish could take care of them, there was no need for Correcting Polish. My polisher choice was the Cyclo, because I didn't need to do a lot of correcting and the Cyclo covers a large surface area because of the two 4 inch pads. I put 4 dots on each white pad and a mist of detail spray to each pad to add lubrication. Once the pads were prepped I put the machine on the paint and turned the speed to 2. Then turned the machine “on” just to spread the polish around in about a 4 square foot area (2x2). Then turned the machine off and changed to speed to 5. When polishing you want to use cross hatching technique overlapping about 50% each time (shown below). Once i fished the first panel I wiped the polish residue and inspected the paint, this was to make sure the Paint Finishing Polish did the job. Don't forget this step and do the whole car, then realize that you didn't use a heavier polish. I don't add very much pressure to the machine because you want make sure the pads are spinning as well as oscillating. Sometimes it helps to mark the pad with a straight line using a sharpie on the side. If the pad is not spinning this means you are applying too much pressure or holding the machine at an angle. I polished over each section about 2-3 times, cross hatching each time until the polish was fully broken down. When fully broken down the polish should look oily almost like Vaseline. You should only have to reapply polish every other panel. If you spray the pad to lubricate it and dab it on the panel you should see some polish on there (it looks white). If not you can reapply polish, two dollops should be enough. Here is the finished product.
  10. Vehicle: Chevrolet Suburban Products used: Two buckets with grit guard Two professional wash pads Adams Car Wash Shampoo Deep Wheel Cleaner APC SVRT Detail Spray Quick Sealant Leather and Interior Cleaner Undercarriage Spray Leather and Interior Conditioner Adams Fender Brush Great White Drying Towel Block dressing applicator Interior dressing Applicators Pictures/Process: (Disclaimer: Camera died after just a couple pictures so many were taken with my iphone. Also forgot to snap a few :/ ) Also, had pictures uploaded to photobucket but didn't realize I couldn't post them all that way. Pictures were larger and weren't sideways until uploaded so I apologize for the inconvenience until this can be fixed. This is also how I personally do things. If there is a better way/you have found a way you like more then please feel free to discuss :shake: Before shots: Aunt is going out of town and taking my cousin and her friends to a softball tournament and wanted the Suburban clean for the trip. She wanted just a “good wash and clean the inside some”. The Suburban looked like it had absolutely zero wax on it and the plastics I’m sure had never seen any dressing as they soaked up SVRT like a champ. Due to time constraints and her just wanting what she did I think it turned out great. She was happy and that’s all that mattered. In all her dirty glory…. I know not everyone has one but I personally use a foam cannon hooked to a power washer when washing. It is not necessary but I really enjoy using it. I put a few ounces of Adams Car Wash Shampoo into my foam cannon and then fill the rest of the way up with water. I also add a quick “squirt” (sorry for not being more precise) to my Two buckets with grit guard before filling it up with water. Next before getting the wheels wet I sprayed Deep Wheel Cleaner onto the wheels, let set a second and agitated them with a wheel brush before then rinsing. Once done with the wheels I moved onto spraying the Suburban down with the foam cannon to soak for a couple of minutes. Once soaked I used the Two buckets with grit guard and Two professional wash pads to wash the entire Suburban. I kept one wash pad to use on the top half of the Suburban and one to use on the bottom half as to not contaminate or spread any of the debris from the bottom to the top. Next, I moved onto scrubbing the wheels and wheel wells. For this I used my Adams Fender Brush, APC, and wheel brush. I sprayed a liberal amount of APC onto the tires as well as in the fender/fender liners and the proceeded to agitate the wheels with the wheel brush and fenders with the fender brush. Once I had the exterior washed. I then rinsed the entire Suburban off using the pooling method to make drying easier and then sprayed Detail Spray on to several panels, windows, etc. of the Suburban before drying it off with a Great White Drying Towel. Once dry I then began to dress the plastics beginning with the fenders and Undercarriage Spray. I gave each fender a few sprays with the undercarriage spray and then buffed down/spread evenly using an old microfiber rag (Warning: don’t use a new rag for this). After dressing the fenders I moved on to the tires, steps, and all other exterior plastics and dressed them using SVRT and a Block dressing applicator. I applied the SVRT as needed to the applicator. This will vary by application depending on how “wet” you would like your SVRT to look and how “thirsty” your plastics are. Next a quick coat of Quick Sealant was applied due to time constraints and not being able to apply Americana. Quick Sealant was applied per directions and a panel at a time being spread with microfiber and wiped clean with another clean microfiber. Next was interior. I apologize for the lack of pictures but will explain steps. Entire interior was cleaned using a shop vac. Next one window had duct tape residue so APC was sprayed onto window (since tint was not present, do not due this if tint is present) then residue was scraped off using a razor blade. After that all interior plastics were scrubbed clean using Leather and Interior Cleaner. Once clean the same plastics were then treated with Leather and Interior Conditioner applied by a Interior dressing Applicators. Interior windows were cleaned using off the shelf “X” brand window cleaner and a waffle weave towel due to not having any adams cleaner. Wash bucket once done… Here is the finished product. Wish I could have done more but think it turned out well for a “quick wash and clean the inside some”. Hope you enjoyed!
  11. I've gotten halfway decent at using my DA polisher and removing swirls. However, it seems that EVERYTIME I do this after 2-3 washes the swirls are back again. I assume I am doing something wrong that is causing this. My washing technique is: Prepare my 2 buckets with grit guards, I use an adams jumbo pad and adams car wash soap Rinse down the car with a hose nozzle Use a glimour foam gun w/ adams car wash soap to get a coating of foam on it Use the jumbo wash pad on the car, working my way from the top to the bottom Rinse with water/hose Mist with Detail Spray Use 2 adams MF big white drying towels Feel free to critique/give me any tips or suggestions. Should I get a power washer to knock off more dirt initially? The car is a 2011 mustang gt candy red metallic. It is my DD and gets driven 5-6 days a week. Is it possible to have a swirl free daily driver, or should I not worry about it?
  12. Last fall, Dylan had announced that an in-line water softener/filter was in the works from Adam's. I even remember posting on that topic/thread. However, i cannot seem to find that topic anymore, and it is not in my comment history. Did that thread get deleted? I was just wanting to check and see if there are any updates to the development of the filter. It is a product that I am VERY interested in, and I'm sure many others are interested too. Thanks
  13. From the album: Aloha from HI

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