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This is my car that I drive daily, haven't really cleaned the car for about a month. Temperatures are dropping more every week here in PA so I knew I had to get the rig dialed in before it gets too cold. I have maintained it very well so I didn't do anything out of the ordinary from what I usually do. Little back story into the car, I got this car around March of this year. It's a 2007 Trailblazer LS. I wish I was there from the beginning to upkeep the paint as well as the rest of the car but I am here now doing my best! I ordered a Adam's box awhile back that I really never got to use but it contained the Buttery Wax that I couldn't wait to use. Happy I got the wheels/tires and exhaust tip dialed in. I love making sure the exhaust tip is dialed as it's one of my favorite parts on the car. Most trailblazer have that ugly trash can resonator and take a lot of pride in my tip. Excuse for the bad lighting but I hurried the car into the garage as it began to drizzle as I was just finishing up washing the car. This is the car after detail spray and the buttery wax have been applied. The Buttery Wax has been by far one of my favorite Adam's products I've used as well as waxes. The application process was very simply and went on like butter, hence the name I guess! Removal was by far the most eye opening for me, even in the garage the temperatures were around 40 degrees Fahrenheit the wax came off effortlessly! I absolutely love the shine and reflection it gives! I'm happy to say the she's already for the harsh colder weather of PA and she protected as well! Thank you, Connor @WallinShine EDIT: Spelling
Adam’s Polishes Winter Prep on a 2016 GMC Denali Hello everyone my name is Charlie, I recently started detailing at Adam’s Headquarters in Louisville, CO. My goal is to post write-up’s of the detail’s in order to (A) show you what Adam’s amazing products are capable of, and ( help answer any and all questions you may have about the product and how to use it. The first few write-ups may not be perfect as I have never documented my own work before. So please chime in giving me any pointers or ideas you would like to me to show in the future. I hope you enjoy. This customer recently picked up this beautiful GMC Denali from McCaddon in Boulder, and by recently I mean there were 700 miles on the vehicle. So he called headquarters and requested an exterior new vehicle/ winter prep. Smart guy if you ask me, getting your vehicle protected shortly after delivery is key. When he dropped off the vehicle I was handed the keys and got to work. These are some photos to show you what I was working with. Please excuse the sideways photos Wheels/Tires/Fenders I proceed to start the washing process (as you should always do first) with the wheels tires and fenders doing one half of the vehicle at a time. For this step I used Deep Wheel Cleaner, All Purpose Cleaner, a wheel woolie (black), a wheel brush (red), a fender brush (grey), a tire brush (blue) and a lug nut brush (red). With everything still dry I sprayed down the face and barrels of the wheels with Deep Wheel, and then the fenders and tires with All Purpose. Remember to not let the Deep Wheel Cleaner sit on the wheels very long, a maximum of 4 minutes before rinsing. When the Deep Wheel reacts with the brake dust it turns purple. So don't scrub them immediately. I scrubbed the face of the wheels with the wheel brush (red) and the lug brush (red handle). Then continued to scrub the barrels with the wheel woolie (black). Once the wheels were done, I scrubbed the fenders using the fender brush (grey) and the tire brush (blue). Finally I rinsed everything and continued to the other side of the Denali. Wash On to the hand wash, first I prepped my buckets as well as my foam gun. In my clean soap bucket I put a new wash pad into the bottom and added about 2-3 oz of Adam’s Car Shampoo directly onto the pad and then filled it with clean water. As for my rinse bucket, well I filled it up with clean water obviously. Now to prep the Adam’s Polishes Foam Gun for ultimate suds action, I added about 2-3 oz of Car Shampoo to the reservoir and filled the rest with warm water. Starting the wash process I rinsed the car with water to remove as many contaminants as possible. Then came the fun part, the Foam Gun. I Sprayed the whole vehicle down with the foam gun lathering it with suds in order to make optimal lubrication to reduce the risk of scratches. After the vehicle was drenched with soap I grabbed the wash pad and started scrubbing. When you soap a vehicle you should always wash top down using only straight line motions, never use circular motions. Reason being, straight scratches are easier to buff out as opposed to circular scratches. Also, always rinse the wash pad every couple of panels depending on how dirty the car is and save the bottom third of the car for last or use a different wash pad for these areas as they are always the dirtiest. The less contaminates in the wash pad, the better. When rising the wash pad, I dunk it in the rinse bucket, scrub one side on the grit guard then flip it and scrub the other side followed by ringing out the water before dunking it back in the soap bucket. These extra simple steps can make a huge difference in quality of your paint after just one wash or a one hundred washes. When I was done soaping this huge GMC Denali I rinsed the entire vehicle off. Then I proceeded to the scary step, drying the vehicle. Drying Once the car was completely rinsed of all soap, I grabbed a bottle of Adam’s detail spray. I sprayed it all over the entire vehicle, to add lubrication for the drying towel. Drying a car is almost guaranteed to leave minor scratches so adding detail spray greatly reduces the odds. When the car was covered in detail spray, I grabbed a Great White drying towel and starting with the roof and working my way down. When using the towel I applied very light pressure to avoid as many scratches as possible. Using only straight motions (no turns with the towel) I used one side to pick up the majority of the water, then I flipped the towel using the other side to pick up the remaining water thus leaving a streak free finish. Also the reason for only using straight motions; it’s more difficult to see straight scratches and they are more easy to polish out. Continue this process until the entire vehicle is complete. Clay Bar After drying the car it was time to clay it. Yes that's right even a vehicle with only 700 miles needs to be clayed. So to start out I checked how rough the paint was using a plastic bag. Using a plastic bag increases your sense of touch. So, very lightly I moved my hand in a plastic bag over the paint, checking all panels. The flat surfaces were worse than the vertical surfaces, most likely from sitting on the dealership's lot. After checking the surfaces I grabbed the Big Blue Clay Bar and inspected it to make sure it was clean and ready to use. I stretched the clay to about the size of my palm and made sure it was flat by pressing it against the paint (shown below). Then using Adam’s Detail Spray (You should probably buy a gallon of this ) I sprayed a couple mists on the panel to lubricate the clay bar to give you an idea of how much detail spray there is a photo below. Again using medium pressure and straight lines, I clayed the surfaces after every few panels you will want to flip the clay inside out to get a fresh surface. Just remember to keep the surface lubricated, the clay should slide across the panel like butter in a pan. You don't have to wipe off the panels until you are done. Also, if you drop the clay bar, DO NOT REUSE IT THROW IT AWAY even if it looks fine, it’s not. Polishing Once I had finished claying the Denali, it was time to check for swirls and do some correcting. The car was in pretty good shape but there were some minor swirls on the GMC as shown below. I these are small enough swirls that Adam’s Paint Finishing Polish could take care of them, there was no need for Correcting Polish. My polisher choice was the Cyclo, because I didn't need to do a lot of correcting and the Cyclo covers a large surface area because of the two 4 inch pads. I put 4 dots on each white pad and a mist of detail spray to each pad to add lubrication. Once the pads were prepped I put the machine on the paint and turned the speed to 2. Then turned the machine “on” just to spread the polish around in about a 4 square foot area (2x2). Then turned the machine off and changed to speed to 5. When polishing you want to use cross hatching technique overlapping about 50% each time (shown below). Once i fished the first panel I wiped the polish residue and inspected the paint, this was to make sure the Paint Finishing Polish did the job. Don't forget this step and do the whole car, then realize that you didn't use a heavier polish. I don't add very much pressure to the machine because you want make sure the pads are spinning as well as oscillating. Sometimes it helps to mark the pad with a straight line using a sharpie on the side. If the pad is not spinning this means you are applying too much pressure or holding the machine at an angle. I polished over each section about 2-3 times, cross hatching each time until the polish was fully broken down. When fully broken down the polish should look oily almost like Vaseline. You should only have to reapply polish every other panel. If you spray the pad to lubricate it and dab it on the panel you should see some polish on there (it looks white). If not you can reapply polish, two dollops should be enough. Here is the finished product.