MAYBEN Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 no worries.. I just wanted to make sure I was giving you a clear answer.. definitely try the SHR first, but I do believe some SSR will be needed.. edit: maybe not, definitely try SHR, then see how it looks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug123 Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 When they say to start with least aggressive pad/polish, it is so that you can test what is necessary for your finish. Some clears can be pretty soft, and some are like rock (like the new corvettes). I would estimate that you will probably end up starting with SHR/orange pad at least, but for the 2x2' test area, go through the procedures. Once you find out what is necessary, then you can start each new area on the car with the required level of aggressiveness. Make sure you always wash, dry, clay, and only then put the polisher to work on the paint. The finish should be clean before claying. Claying is very important, as it gets off any contaminants from the surface. The properly clayed finish is very smooth, and this is the base for building that killer shine you're going for. Check your work with the baggie on the hand as you are claying so that you know it's perfectly smooth, clean, and ready to polish. Slow and steady is now your motto. You are going to be happily surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integrity Detailing, LLC Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Welcome! There are certainly quite a few folks on here willing and patient enough to help out here. EDIT: That is exactly how my paint surface looks. But we are in the right place now at AF! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 I'll say. I can't wait to get home tonight to start my testing process. My neighbor was telling me "whatever you do, don't use that clay bar stuff because it scratched my car up bad" I asked him if he mistook the claybar and grabbed a brillo pad. LOL I'm so stoked, I'm about to ask for time off work to take care of "real" business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 I do have a question about the process other people are using when polishing the POSTS of their rides. Usually these things are 3" wide and have all kinds of trim and glass near them. What do you guys use in these cases? Focus pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDM Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I do have a question about the process other people are using when polishing the POSTS of their rides. Usually these things are 3" wide and have all kinds of trim and glass near them. What do you guys use in these cases? Focus pads? Yep, the focus pads work great for tight areas with the PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-V8V Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 And tape those areas off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Haven't even started and already having to get some more stuff. I love it, but the wife may not. Let me go check out what a set of focus pads are gonna set me back. I'm going to start on the larger areas and then hit those with some focus work using the same process. I'm hoping I can tackle this in a Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gencoupe3dot8 Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Trust me, you'll want focus pads.. both for the PC, and when you feel ready... for the deeper scratches on a drill (just be VERY careful and maybe practice on an old car or practice panel) (Watch the video Dylan has up).. the big thing is keep the drill moving and watch out for edges, creases, etc where you will have thin clear... And again when you feel more seasoned, move up to a Flex... it will speed up your correction time and help with more stubborn swirls/scratches. Happy paint correction! -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-V8V Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I'm hoping I can tackle this in a Sunday. Don't rush the process, the only thing that will do is set you up to be disappointed. Don't set a time limit, it will be done when it's done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Thanks. C6Bill, I'm going to take your advice on that. I think in my mind I wanted the whole process to take 8-10hrs (which is significant) but if it take more, then so be it. I've got to figure out my process before I start trying to place a timer on things also. I want perfection and I know that takes time. If it's several day's, then so be it. I'm going to take a test piece today to establish the process and I will then submit pics of the results. It seems as though people on the AF are as anxious as I am to see the results and that to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYBEN Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 if you are doing it over a few days, it would be ideal not to drive it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Mayben, your a mind reader. That was going to be the next question. I thought about it for about 2 seconds and decided as you stated, driving would probably not be a good idea. Thanks for watching my back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYBEN Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Ok my fellow AFers. Here's the process I followed. (I will post pics in a bit after I'm done) In the middle of it right now. Washed deck lid completely and dried Claybar'd half the lid Used DS to remove remaining DS w/doublesoft MF towel Orange Pad w/ S&H Remover - 1 shot DS to Pad, small X pattern of product on pad Speed 3 on PC 2, complete section passes (up,down,side,side,up,down,side,side) Shot of DS on PAD Speed 5 (2 section passes) Removed with DS and DoubleSoft MF after each of the above 2 steps Repeated the process above using the FMP as well. Results: All Swirls are gone. I am disheartened though to find that I have some scratches that will probably need Focus Work. Concerns: There is relatively high humidity today, I'm in my garage. It seems as though the product is taking a long time to flash. To be honest, I'm not sure if it ever did because I had to remove it with DS and doublesoft MF after each application. I seem to be experiencing some hazing in areas. I'm not sure what that is all about. Any ideas? Going to upload pics of process as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-V8V Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 The 2 passes at speed 3 are not getting you anywhere, set the PC to 3 to spread the polish over the area to be polished then crank it right up to 5 and do your passes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYBEN Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 maybe you had too much polish and didnt work it long enough to flash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 OK, I think you guys are right. Not working the PC fast enough. I guess the reason is I'm scared of burning the clear or messing up the paint somehow. Newbie jitters I guess. I applied another coat of FMP 3 passes @ 5000opm. Here are the results: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueGenCoupe Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Its nearly impossible to burn the clear with the pc. Good job on the pics ^^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 You'll notice the haze @ the bottom of the last pic. Also, I know its sacrilege to use turtle but because it was a test area I wasn't really looking to perfectly wash it. Also, between the drying and SHRemover I claybar'd. Here are the final pics. BYE, BYE SWIRLS !!! YEAH BABY !!! Next is to get the other side of the Trunk and Perfect my method. So, I hopefully will not have anymore guess work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 I guess my biggest problem is I'm not comfortable handling the PC yet. I know that sounds dumb but it's the truth. I guess the more I use it the easier it will become. Biggest problem I'm running into right now I think is lighting. I'm finding it hard to see what I'm doing. I'm getting some overhead halogens installed before I make this a habit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYBEN Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubano Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Thanks, MAYBEN. When this stuff flashes does it literally disappear? Do you guys get any haziness after your done? Do you wipe with a MF towel after the fact? Use any DS? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDM Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 If you're scared of the PC, check out this thread and watch Junkman's videos on the subject: Can You Damage Your Paint with the PC-7424XP? It will take some experience to become comfortable with your technique, but you aren't going to hurt anything while learning. The PC is very novice-friendly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ouarkie Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Welcome Cubano. I am new to posting but have been reading the forum for a while. If you get the chance try Adams Car Wash, it is amazing. I have the gallon size like you show and just use it on the wheels and tires. Another suggestion if you didn't do it, is spray the car with the Detail Spray (DS) before you dry it, and you will be amazed. It makes the drying so much easier and it will look fresh waxed. You will probally order the wash and DS in the gallon size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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