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HOW TO: Debadge a vehicle


Team Adam's

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I hate badges on vehicles [unless it is subtle]. The day I got my car I began removing the badges I didn't like.

 

I started with the emblem, model, and the stupid E85 sticker.

Before.jpg

 

And left the Avenger one.

Trunk.jpg

 

Something to watch out for is fading of the paint and having it "known" that there were badges present. Usually machine polishing and leveling of the paint in the area will disguise it. That holds very true for molding as well. A lot of moldings can leave stains or be faded [or the terrible bubbling paint problem]. That is why removing moldings sooner is often better.

 

I use a stoners product for the removal of tar and rubber. The rubber literally falls of, but the use of an APC and IPA works as well.

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I went to remove the side moldings on my SS and had what looked like paint built up. Took it to a local body shop and asked if there was anything they could do. They said they could try but they don't want to mess it up even more. I went back home, grabbed 3M double sided tape and stuck the molding back on the car and said screw it. Lol. It's not like my side moldings are huge and hideous. The moldings on my dad's '96 SS on the other hand...are peeling and look HORRIBLE!

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haven't been through the 98719879812739127983 pages of this thread, but goo-gone works wonders as well.

 

A bit of an exaggeration for a 2 page thread. :o

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  • 2 weeks later...
... plus, until the manufactures start paying me to act as a rolling billboard I don't feel compelled to keep them

 

 

:iagree: The main reason I debadge mine as well.

 

It goes without saying all those horrible vinyl dealer decals and dealer licence plate brackets come off as well. In no way, shape or form will I give them free advertising.

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My old car. But a really clean de-badge. I removed the SONATA to give it a cleaner, sleek look. When I was closing on the paperwork, the dealer also put a horrible gold vinly decal underneath the SONATA as well (not pictured). The car was not home 2 minutes before I ripped that vinyl off. I could not remove the "H" as this was bolted to the trunk. But I did subdue it a bit by Plasti-dipping the letter and making it a nice matte black color. I also plati-dipped the chrome strip below the "H" and added some nice tinting on the windows. See pictures below.

 

Before:

[attach]10028[/attach]

 

 

After:

[attach]10029[/attach]

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Much cleaner Adam!

After:

10029-after.jpg

 

I have removed the dealer decal at the dealership before rolling out of their lot and heading home after the purchase!

Edited by mc2hill
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Been getting a fair amount of PM's about how to use the eraser wheel, so since the door and tailgate badges hadn't been pulled yet I threw this together today.

 

The process is the same as far as heating and removing the badges themselves to this point... heat first, then pull the fishing line behind to cut them. Once you're down to the foam backed adhesive the wheel takes over... as you can see it makes short work of the stuff and is pretty safe so long as you keep the wheel moving.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvbMqjOxaeI]Debadge w/ Eraser Wheel - YouTube[/ame]

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Yes... leaving the moldings.

 

This new gen of trucks doesn't have the body line like the previous ones did... after looking at a bunch of pics of trucks without the moldings I decided it looked too plain. Needs something there to break up those huge, flat, doors.

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If I remember right those 3M wheels weren't cheap. I removed side moldings to replace on an 88 gt and used one. I also used to use them when removing body kits on cars. They work well, but can get hot quick if not moving it like Dylan said. I may take off the camaro letters off the side of mine it is the only chrome or polished anything on the whole outside of car

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If I remember right those 3M wheels weren't cheap. I removed side moldings to replace on an 88 gt and used one. I also used to use them when removing body kits on cars. They work well, but can get hot quick if not moving it like Dylan said. I may take off the camaro letters off the side of mine it is the only chrome or polished anything on the whole outside of car

 

They're not too bad... around $25 I believe is average. They last a good while too. You can easily debadge a few cars with one.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Dylan, quick question:

 

I debadged my Mercedes earlier today a bit, and have that slight outline of the letters still left. I haven't tried any professional strength adhesive remover, but before I go out and buy some, I was wondering if claying the area and following through with SHR and FMP on the PC will help? I just got the PC today and am planning on using it this weekend, if that should help I'll skip getting some adhesive remover.

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I debadged my Mercedes earlier today a bit, and have that slight outline of the letters still left. I haven't tried any professional strength adhesive remover, but before I go out and buy some, I was wondering if claying the area and following through with SHR and FMP on the PC will help? I just got the PC today and am planning on using it this weekend, if that should help I'll skip getting some adhesive remover.

 

If it is only the outline on the paint then your polish and pads should take care of that. It may only need FMP and the white pad.

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Need to do the back bowtie on my '12 as well. Im going to probably leave the rest of the lettering though. The chrome lettering on black really breaks it up and makes the words pop.

 

Might get rid of the flex fuel badge and the LT badge though. Ill keep the z71 stickers. again on the black it breaks it up some.

 

100% keeping the side moldings. Parking at an apartment complex or grocery store I feel 100x better leaving them. since the truck is taller than most cars they are at the perfect height to stop door dings for the most part.

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