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TheWolf

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After reading a recent post from Dylan about homemade air fresheners in another thread, I decided to give it a try.  I use a utility towel to apply LC and typically end up with about an ounce of product left in the towel which then gets rinsed down the sink.  After conditioning a few weeks ago, I put the un-rinsed towel in a small take-out container and then put it under the seat.

 

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After a few days I added a few ounces of water to moisten the towel and bring the scent out.  Seemed to work pretty well.  After a week, I added more water and the scent was stronger the next day.  I think it is a good way to use the leftover product in the towel.  When I apply LC next, I will use the newer towel for the air freshener and then rinse out and launder the previous towel.  I haven't seen any issues yet with mold or mildew in the damp towel.

 

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A nice benefit to having it under the seat is that when I use the heated/ventilated seats, the seat-bottom fan pulls the scent up through the seat.

Edited by TheWolf
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Beautiful truck!!!!! :thumbsup:  and a great thread. I am learning a lot from this forum, but this thread has given me some GREAT suggestions. I will definitely follow your original steps on my new explorer!!

 

I like the idea of the leather conditioner rag under the seat, seems like it would really make the truck smell good!  Currently I use Wonder Wafers and they work well but this is something I will have to try. 

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Beautiful truck!!!!! :thumbsup:  and a great thread. I am learning a lot from this forum, but this thread has given me some GREAT suggestions. I will definitely follow your original steps on my new explorer!!

 

I like the idea of the leather conditioner rag under the seat, seems like it would really make the truck smell good!  Currently I use Wonder Wafers and they work well but this is something I will have to try. 

Thanks Vincent!

 

I had never heard of Wonder Wafers. Which have you used?  Do the "New Leather" or "European Leather" smell like Adam's Leather Conditioner?

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Thanks Vincent!

 

I had never heard of Wonder Wafers. Which have you used?  Do the "New Leather" or "European Leather" smell like Adam's Leather Conditioner?

You are very welcome!! They are pretty cool! My friends parents own it. I like "New Leather" more than "European Leather". It's stronger. It smells like brand new leather! But I am sure your idea is a stronger scent.

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Picked up a second Venus Pro Compression sprayer with foaming tip to use for WW (actually diluted RW) pre-soaks, leaving the first one for use with APC.

 

I wanted to add labels to both sides, so I removed the bottle printing with Xylene (solvent), washed off the residue, cleaned with IPA, then applied the labels.

 

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Edited by TheWolf
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After a month of cold, wet weather, I finally got the chance for a wash today.  It snowed yesterday and was 24 degrees this morning, but was up to 30 degrees when I started the wash, which is warm enough when using hot water.

 

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Started snowing again as I was rinsing so I pulled it into the heated garage to dry.

 

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30 degrees, f that, ha!  Your neighbors probably think you are a little coo coo for washing your car yesterday!!

My neighbors are pretty used to my insanity with washing this truck, they don't even look twice when they see me out in the rain or snow.  But hey, its not about the weather today, it is about having a shiny truck for the better weather tomorrow.  Forecast is clear and dry this week, that means five days of drivin' the shine!

 

After all, winter causes SADD (seasonal affective detailing disorder), so some therapy is needed at least once a month.

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But hey, its not about the weather today, it is about having a shiny truck for the better weather tomorrow.  Forecast is clear and dry this week, that means five days of drivin' the shine!

 

Looking at your picture still alot of snow is outside.  It will not be clean for long.  Since you like cleaning in inclement weather just head on across the country and detail mine.   

 

I am going to have to slip out of the office one afternoon this week to wash my daily driver and the wonderful salt off the vehicle but looking at the extended forcast we are suppose to get snow this weekend and early next week.   We have not had much snow this year hard to believe.   (Only reason we had salt the other day was the DOT thought it would be freezing rain).

 

I was taught hot water would freeze before cold water.

Edited by DieselDude
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Looking at your picture still alot of snow is outside.  It will not be clean for long.  Since you like cleaning in inclement weather just head on across the country and detail mine.   

 

I am going to have to slip out of the office one afternoon this week to wash my daily driver and the wonderful salt off the vehicle but looking at the extended forcast we are suppose to get snow this weekend and early next week.   We have not had much snow this year hard to believe.   (Only reason we had salt the other day was the DOT thought it would be freezing rain).

 

I was taught hot water would freeze before cold water.

 

Its still clean, no wet weather until this weekend!  Even if gets dirty again right away, I think it is important to get the salt and de-icing chemicals washed off regularly during the winter.

 

I am not sure if hot water freezes faster but I do know the hot water seems to evaporate much faster.  I did not have any issues with freezing water since the truck just came out of a 60 degree garage, the bucket water was 115 degrees (keeps the hands warm), the rinse water was 100 degrees (a little less steam than using hotter water), and it was also close to 32 degrees when I finished.

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I decided to try the LC on all the textured, black plastic inside the truck (doors, dash, pillars).  I had been using TID for all the interior plastic and it worked well but I figured the higher UV protection in the LC might be better.  Also, since it is a straight conditioner/protectant and has no cleaners like the TID, I think it will provide better protection against dirt smudges, food smears, kid boogers, etc.

 

Turns out that the LC gave the plastics a deeper, richer look than the TID.  I applied it with a MF towel and it left a nice, uniform appearance.  I then went back and wiped any residue off the smooth plastics with a clean towel and TID.

 

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Dan it looks great!  Dylan can tell us for sure but I believe there is a slight cleaning agent in the Leather Conditioner (around the same as  TID), most Leather/Vinyl/Plastic dressings I've used for interiors have a mild cleaner in them.  Would be interested to know for sure though.  My personal preference is the look/finish of the TID on all dash/door plastics, completely matte, and then a slightly deeper matte that the LC gives on the seats, so there is a slight "contrast" on the interior.

 

Give it a whirl :)

 

And btw, foaming in the driveway in 30 degrees, your neighbors must hate the ice rink you create at the end of your driveway lol.  Why not just pre-foam/pre-rinse in the driveway real quick, pull her in the heated garage and go to town with Rinseless?  That's what I've been doing all winter so far and its been working like a charm and keeping me warmer to boot!

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No issues with ice at the end of the driveway so far.  The street slopes back toward the curb so all the suds and water just run down the gutter...into the neighbor's yard.  He hasn't complained yet and his grass is doing fine.

 

I have yet to try Rinseless washing.  I'm just not sure that it would work very well with this truck as it takes some scrubbing and brushing to get all the filth off the wheels, tires, wells, running boards, shocks, mud flaps, etc.  I can see how it would work on the paint, but it seems to me that just wiping with a soapy towel on these areas that I usually scrub with a brush would just move the dirt around.

 

I understand the convenience and time-savings of a rinseless wash, but IMO, less dirt is going to be moved across the shiny paint when doing a traditional wash, especially with using the pressure washer for pre-rinsing and the foam cannon for maximum suds.

Edited by TheWolf
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Or you could do best of both worlds, pre-rinse and pre-foam with the cannon, rinse again, pull her in and go to town with Rinseless :)

 

You have to try it to believe it, trust me I was skeptical too.  However, I never use brushes on my car itself, only wash pads/mitts and MF towels.  I do believe in the rapid encapsulating technology of the polymers in Rinseless and the associated products on the market, after using it for about a year now.  It's so slick and lubricating that unless you are intentionally using bad technique, you aren't going to harm your finish.

 

It doesn't get everything 100% perfect in winter, for example I always prefer to do wheels/tires/wheel wells traditionally if the temps allow, as I also am using brushes on the wheel wells etc, but it will get you to about 95%, safely.  All painted and plastic surfaces can be cleaned well using rinseless techniques.

 

Just my .02, love the updates Dan!

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  • 2 weeks later...

ALL-WEATHER FLOOR MATS

CLEANING AND PROTECTION

 

Shortly after buying the truck, I found that the OEM all-weather floor mats were impossible to keep clean.  I would scrub them clean, but the first footprints would leave them dirty, they were basically dust magnets.  So I switched from the OEM all-weather floor mats to  carpet mats for spring, summer and fall.  Once winter set in, I went back to the all-weathers, but figured I would try some different products to add some protection and make maintenance cleanings easier.

 

I started with a good cleaning with the pressure washer and scrubbing with APC.

 

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After a good rinse, I let them dry overnight and then put on a  few heavy coats of In & Out Spray, using about 3/4 of a can. 

 

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Dried overnight then back into the truck.  I found that they were really slippery and the baby-powder scent was too much for me.  After a week of use, I didn't try to see how they would wipe down, as I knew this product would not work for me.

 

So the next weekend, another APC scrub and rinse, overnight dry, and then a few coats of TID.  I gave them a heavy spray, letting the product soak in, sprayed on another coat, and then wiped off the excess with a towel.  After drying overnight, the mats were not as slippery as before, and they wiped up real nice during weekly maintenance cleanings, using a terry towel sprayed with TID.

 

After a month of using TID for maintenance wipe downs, I pressure washed, scrubbed with APC, dried overnight, and then tried some LC.  I used the interior brush to spread the product around, getting it into the ribs.  I did a few coats, allowing some time for the product to soak in, then wiped the excess.

 

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This product was about the same level of slippery as the TID, but I found that they were easier to wipe down when moderately dirty.  I think the LC provided a better layer of protection, and the dirt just sat on top where it was easy to wipe off.

 

Here is a mat after a week of use.  A little dirty but not filthy enough to warrant a pressure wash and scrub.

 

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I gave them a good vacuuming to remove anything loose.

 

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A little LC on a terry towel and then gave them a wipe down.

 

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The mats finished up looking nice.

 

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And the towel is left with the dirt.

 

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Overall, I think the LC works best for protecting, and I really prefer this scent over the other products.

 

(For those of you that work on customer's cars, I would recommend against applying a heavy coat of any product for the purpose of adding protection, as it makes them slippery and could result in liability if they had an accident.  For my own mats, I know to be careful.)

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Good use and good call! I tried the TID on the mats and wasn't impressed as well.

 

Another good use for LC, with the light cleaning agent you shouldn't need to APC them each time either. As long as you wipe down any excess till dry to the touch I don't see any issues.

 

I've been using the rest of my bottle of Optimum Protectant Plus (which is rated as a protectant for leather plastic and vinyl just like Adams) and have been pleased with the results. If I end up replacing it with Adams LC I will def continue using it for this!

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Today's wash was a major pain.  A weird rainstorm on Friday morning had milky rain that dried to leave a spotted mess.  The Weather Service does not know what caused it but they said it could have been volcanic ash from Mexico or dust from somewhere else.

 

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I did the Winter Wash routine: pressure rinse, foam pre-soak, wheels and tires, rinse again, foam and wash pad, then final rinse.  Blew it dry and then found that all the black textured plastic was still stained with that crap.  I went back over all the plastic with diluted RW and the waterless waffle weave towel.  Had to use the Trim Brush to get into the all crevices on the vents and grill.  It mostly cleaned off but I will need to use the Trim Brush again during the next wash.

 

Also tried out my new Wheel Woolie.  It worked really good on these wheels, should have gotten one a long time ago.

 

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The hose reels are made by General Pump. I liked them because they were wider rather than too tall, so they fit on the cart better. They have worked well so far.

This is just awesome! Where did you buy the reels from? Also, why do you have two on the cart?

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Today I finished a project which is a handle that connects two bucket caddies together. This allows me to move them around more easily. This two-bucket setup is dedicated to wheels and tires.

 

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The handle is from a old garden tool, I bolted on two steel straps, painted it black, and then bolted it to the bucket caddies. I also drilled small holes around the inside of the caddies to let water drain out.

 

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Did you also upgrade the casters on the buckets?

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This is just awesome! Where did you buy the reels from? Also, why do you have two on the cart?

Thanks!

 

The reels I got from Amazon and Pressure Washers Direct.  The 50' reel on the bottom for the pressure washer hose is a General Pump model D30001 and the 100' reel on the top is model D30002.

 

Why two?  The reel on top I had set up with a garden hose for doing flood-rinses, like you see in some of the videos.  After using it a few times, I found the extra effort to do so was not worth the time or wasting the extra DI water that ends up left in the hose and then drains out.  Even with a flood-rinse, I would still go back with the Sidekick blaster to get the remaining water, so it was an unnecessary step.  I actually just took that hose reel off the cart a few weeks ago so that I have more room on top for buckets, pads and brushes.

 

Did you also upgrade the casters on the buckets?

I did on one, to match the other.  The first caddy I got from Adam's and it had the casters you see in the pic.  They did not stock the caddy when I bought the second one so I ordered it from one of their dealers, and it had the red casters that you see on the website now.  I had to have them match so I ordered new ones with the clear wheels from Amazon.

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I ordered some replacement trigger heads from Kwazar in the UK and saw that they had a "Harsh Chemical" version of the Venus Pro, so I got one of them to try with the MFR&B.

 

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I removed the bottle printing to make some room for the labels.

 

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I mixed up a 50% dilution with DI water since these compression sprayers move a lot of product.

 

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After a wash or detail, I hand wash the towels to get most of the soiling off, rinse good, then hang to dry.

 

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Once dry, I store them in small trash cans (with lids), until I run out of any of the different towels.

 

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Then, I clean the washer by running a cleaning cycle with vinegar.  I also have to vacuum all the glitter out of the dryer and wipe it down so there is no cross contamination (glitter is from the kids, not strippers).

 

I run a load of the waffle weave drying towels, then a second load with the dirtier wheel and utility towels.

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