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PRO TIP: Dilution Ratios


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Pre-soak could be used for a number of things really... I use it on the front end, and lower rockers of almost everything thats dirty enough to justify it (breaks up bugs and road grime) and I do it before both rinseless and traditional washes.

 

So basically there are some great properties in rinseless for loosening up and safely removing items from the paint? I am envisioning the lubricity freeing up bugs and grime from the paint to be safely removed. Given that, more times than not rinseless is your go to for that purpose? Otherwise, one would be working the grime extra hard with a regular wash pad and shampoo or attempting to literally scratch at the grime any other way.. (I've seen people using their finger nail - just quickly though) haha.

 

I wasn't seeing the effective cleaning power of the product, but see where it works as a freeing agent followed by a source for safe removal of the grime. Just trying to get on board with the idea here. Thanks

Edited by sportruck00
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At that 6:1 or 8:1 dilution Dylan posted, just saturate the bug-splattered area, give a few mins dwell time, and it will come off VERY easily once you hit it with your wash pad and soap, you shouldn't need a bug scrubber or aggressive scrubbing in my experience when the product is given some time to do its magic.  The polymers in the Rinseless break up extra heavy dirt and grime thats on the surface of the clear coat, so as a pre-soak its wise to use that when talking about the most dirty areas of the car we clean in a rinseless wash: namely the front bumper, lower belt line, wheels, and rear trunk/bumper/hatch area.

 

I always pre-soak every panel/area before hitting with the wash media and my rinseless solution from the bucket, but using a strong pre-soak and giving the product some time to work before working effectively will make your wash more pleasurable and easier.

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At that 6:1 or 8:1 dilution Dylan posted, just saturate the bug-splattered area, give a few mins dwell time, and it will come off VERY easily once you hit it with your wash pad and soap, you shouldn't need a bug scrubber or aggressive scrubbing in my experience when the product is given some time to do its magic.  The polymers in the Rinseless break up extra heavy dirt and grime thats on the surface of the clear coat, so as a pre-soak its wise to use that when talking about the most dirty areas of the car we clean in a rinseless wash: namely the front bumper, lower belt line, wheels, and rear trunk/bumper/hatch area.

 

I always pre-soak every panel/area before hitting with the wash media and my rinseless solution from the bucket, but using a strong pre-soak and giving the product some time to work before working effectively will make your wash more pleasurable and easier.

 

WOW, thanks Jason. Great info that makes sense! Really happy I received rinseless with my mystery box!

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I pre-soak the front end, rear end and the lower parts of the side panels. So basically the only things I DONT pre-soak are the roof, hood and upper areas.

 

But I mostly do waterless washes so I feel the pre-soak is the least I can do to ensure minimal damage.

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Yeah pre soaking we are talking about rinseless washing but honestly it's good practice to saturate the panel you are waterless washing with a concentrated dilution when waterless washing as well.

Gotcha... I just assumed pre-soak could really just be applied to ANY wash process to help.

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Sure does. Even on a 2 bucket wash you could pre soak the dirty areas before touching a wash pad to it. Thus why many of us use foam guns and cannons to pre soak when traditional washing.

 

"It's all about lubrication people"

 

Now you are talking. The cannon.. Its all coming together now!

Edited by sportruck00
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I know the 2-bucket 'traditional' is the safest wash process. But I've come to truly enjoy the waterless wash SOOO much more. I've always thought of the traditional wash as a chore. Whereas I look forward to doing the waterless wash.

 

Of course if the car gets real dirty I break out the hose and bucket. Begrudgingly of course! Lol.

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COMMON DILUTIONS

Below you'll find just a few suggestions on various dilutions to use your Adam's products at. If you have a dilution ratio you like for a product reply here and we'll add it to the list. The beauty of diluting products is you can find a variety of needs and new solutions for products you may not have thought of before.

 

 

  • Super VRT
    • 1:1 - spray on low gloss tire dressing
    • 2:1 - spray on detailer for vinyl soft tops/tonneau covers
    • 3:1 - quick detail spray dressing for matte vinyl wrap

 

 

 

Question: Once the VRT is broke down 2-1 for a vinyl tops is it spray able or do you still apply with applicator? Does it run if I was to get caught in the rain after applying it to my top? Im one of the few that actually have a true vinyl top on my GTO. At the 3-1 can it be used for floor mats, or is it slick that my feet will slide? I have factory 72 GTO rubber mats that's Im always trying to keep clean. Everything seems so slick

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I know the 2-bucket 'traditional' is the safest wash process. But I've come to truly enjoy the waterless wash SOOO much more. I've always thought of the traditional wash as a chore. Whereas I look forward to doing the waterless wash.

 

Of course if the car gets real dirty I break out the hose and bucket. Begrudgingly of course! Lol.

 

Done properly with technique and an efficient process, a rinseless wash is just as safe if not safer than a traditional wash, and is safer than a waterless wash (spray down and wipe).  If you like waterless washing you should try rinseless washing, I can get my X5 done in about 40 minutes taking my time and including wheels/tires and door jambs, in the comfort of my garage.

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I know the 2-bucket 'traditional' is the safest wash process. But I've come to truly enjoy the waterless wash SOOO much more. I've always thought of the traditional wash as a chore. Whereas I look forward to doing the waterless wash.

 

Of course if the car gets real dirty I break out the hose and bucket. Begrudgingly of course! Lol.

 

 

Done properly with technique and an efficient process, a rinseless wash is just as safe if not safer than a traditional wash, and is safer than a waterless wash (spray down and wipe).  If you like waterless washing you should try rinseless washing, I can get my X5 done in about 40 minutes taking my time and including wheels/tires and door jambs, in the comfort of my garage.

 

That he said^^^!

I did my wife's Accord and my Frontier last weekend in 40 minutes.  That was washed, dried, and clean the wheels & tires.  Now I was outside for about 2 hours total, but I was refilling bottles, etc, but the actual wash and dry took 40 minutes. 

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Question: Once the VRT is broke down 2-1 for a vinyl tops is it spray able or do you still apply with applicator? Does it run if I was to get caught in the rain after applying it to my top? Im one of the few that actually have a true vinyl top on my GTO. At the 3-1 can it be used for floor mats, or is it slick that my feet will slide? I have factory 72 GTO rubber mats that's Im always trying to keep clean. Everything seems so slick

 

It becomes sprayable at 1:1, it definitely will be at 2:1. I would still stick to TID for floor matts b/c VRT at most any dilution that will be worthwhile will still be slicker. Plus the added bonus of cleaning while you protect of TID makes it a no brainer on floor liners.

 

Done properly with technique and an efficient process, a rinseless wash is just as safe if not safer than a traditional wash, and is safer than a waterless wash (spray down and wipe).  If you like waterless washing you should try rinseless washing, I can get my X5 done in about 40 minutes taking my time and including wheels/tires and door jambs, in the comfort of my garage.

 

^^^ Bingo! All about technique and proper prep - even with the hideous mess my vehicles are in during the winter here I still rinseless wash. Just blast the crud off first with water (same as you would with a traditional wash) pre-soak as needed, and the rest is just the usual approach.

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Done properly with technique and an efficient process, a rinseless wash is just as safe if not safer than a traditional wash, and is safer than a waterless wash (spray down and wipe).  If you like waterless washing you should try rinseless washing, I can get my X5 done in about 40 minutes taking my time and including wheels/tires and door jambs, in the comfort of my garage.

How is Rinseless safer? Isn't it pretty much the same idea? One way the towel has the product and the other way the product is sprayed in the surface being cleaned.

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How is Rinseless safer? Isn't it pretty much the same idea? One way the towel has the product and the other way the product is sprayed in the surface being cleaned.

 

Much more wash media in a rinseless,  pad/towel literally soaked and dripping. I still prefer the multiple wash pad/towel method too but the initial cost is more. Like Dylan said just cause its a rinseless doesn't mean you can't use the hose to knock off serious dirt first. I always do.

 

I like to fill my bucket with really hot water from inside too and if there's bad spots I'll lay a soaked MF on that spot for a bit. 

 

Edit: on phone. Dylan beat me to it. 

Edited by ForceofWill
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I wasn't on board at first either. I felt like a towel was being pressed directly on dirty paint followed by running that towel now compressed against dirt along the entire panel. An easy way to look at it in my opinion is just like wash shampoo and a wash pad. Same idea, lubricity first (the shampoo). You would never put a dry wash pad straight to the paint without first wetting it.

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Great thread, thanks for all the info. I recall reading somewhere that APC's can be diluted for the purpose of pre soaking microfiber towels and foam pads. Could you please post some ratios for very soiled to lightly soiled materials? I have a brand new bottle of APC (great product BTW) and some dirty towels and pads.

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