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Correcting Gray


PT3

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I haven't yet done any correcting.... But after applying LPS, I noticed how it was a bit difficult to see the product against the Space Gray color of the M.

 

Is Gray a color that's a bit harder to work simply because the color 'hides' your work?

 

I can see that being a challenge to paint correcting.

 

Any tips or tricks on working with gray?

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Good lighting will be your best friend.  Gray can be difficult to work on, almost as bad as light colors.  But the right lighting does make a big difference no matter what color paint you're working on.

 

Exactly this.  You will have to move your head at various angles to get the best possible view to see and remove defects.  If you think gray is tough try working on white.  That's even tougher. 

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^^^Bingo, working on white will kill your eyes, especially metallic white.  The plus is, its so hard to see defects that honestly you can get by with just a light finishing polish after clay most of the time, because the heavy defects are so hard to spot.

 

Get a swirl finder off ebay (CREE LED torch for about $20), and some good fluorescents to check your work.  I enjoy using the torch just to double check.

 

Or get a work light from the Depot, I'm sure you can find more than one use for it.  I use this as well, and it works awesome, love the LED for no more scalded legs or sweating bc of the ridiculous heat of halogen.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-ft-1720-Lumen-Led-Work-Light-with-Tripod-WL1720LT-H/203343390

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Agree with all above. Every color presents challenges in one form or another, you just have to adapt your technique for them.

 

Like mentioned by The Guz - you'll need to look at it from a few angles. I always found that standing at the back of the garage and looking out towards the outdoor light down side panels, almost parrallel to the panel I'm inspecting, helped show spots I missed removing polish/wax/sealant residues from.

 

Same from the hood, stand near the side mirror, lean over and look down your hood towards a light source. From that vantage point you should be able to see.

 

Adding an intense spotlight to your collection will be a big help as well.

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A set of nice work lights can be bought, including a stand, from most hardware stores for $40... about double to 3x that if you want LED. The cheapest I've ever seen was a set of craftsman 500w halogens on a tripod for $29.99.

 

Having a handheld to do spot inspection is also important. I have a Brinkman dual xenon that has served me well for years. Both Flex and Rupes have a penlight style LED thats crazy bright for inspections as well. Doesn't have to be anything specific, just something with a nice intense beam.

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A set of nice work lights can be bought, including a stand, from most hardware stores for $40... about double to 3x that if you want LED. The cheapest I've ever seen was a set of craftsman 500w halogens on a tripod for $29.99.

 

Having a handheld to do spot inspection is also important. I have a Brinkman dual xenon that has served me well for years. Both Flex and Rupes have a penlight style LED thats crazy bright for inspections as well. Doesn't have to be anything specific, just something with a nice intense beam.

 

Unrelated and not the same type of lighting needed, but have you seen these? 

 

http://www.bigasslight.com/homes-shops/

 

I saw somewhere your garage was a work-in-process. These are great! You probably recognize BigAss from their commercial fans line.. 

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