help with a tough first time correction

[avvblanc01]

Hey everyone. First up, I'd like to apologize for starting yet another "first time" thread, but this truck is my absolute baby and I'd really like some advice from the more seasoned detailers on here.

 

So here is what I'm dealing with:

The truck:

1993 Dodge D350 with the original 3 stage white paint. It is VERY rare for a 1st gen dodge to have original paint, so I want to make sure that I do not make any mistakes when doing paint correction on mine. 

The previous owner took great care of it and even garaged it, but from the looks of it he was using steel wool to wash and wax the truck! 

The whole truck is covered in some pretty severe swirls, with other areas much worse off. It almost looks like there was a branch or something that rubbed against the paint for an extended period. 

Im not expecting to get every single thing out, but I would like to get as close as possible.

 

here is the truck:

1993 1st gen Dodge D350 cummins by avvblanc01, on Flickr

 

here are some photos of the paint damage sorry the truck isn't clean right now but you can still get the picture:

 

IMG_1491 by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

 

here is one of the really bad spots right above the bright area:

IMG_1493 by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

 

My plan:

I have never done paint correction before, and I understand white isn't the easiest color to work with. I also have a pretty limited budget, but here is what Im planning to purchase:

-flex 3401 VRG polisher

-Adams 2step polishing kit with the 7in pads

 

Questions:

1) Does this sound like the right set up to tackle my paint problems?

2) Am I going to need wet sanding to see any real difference in the paint or can I get a marked improvement from the 2step system?

3) Are there any tips you guys have for polishing paint like this?

4) Should I worry about thinning/damaging the already fragile dodge clear coat when Im doing this?

 

In advance, thank you so much for your help. I just wanted to check with you guys before I pull the trigger, purchase everything, and start in on my paint! 

 

 

 

 

[Beemer]

1.  Perfect setup.

 

2.  No.  Wet sanding should only be necessary on deep scratches that catch your nail.

 

3.  Watch the videos and then watch them again.  Mask off a 2'x2' area and work it as close to perfect as you can and then you will know what's required for the whole pickup.

 

4.  I don't think so but I'll bet someone here has experience with this particular paint.

 

Great looking pickup, BTW!

[Sizzle Chest]

^^^This.  Always do a test spot first.  See what results you are getting.  You will be fine...and that paint should come out great!  And I concur...nice truck!

[Team Adam's]

These guys pretty much gave you spot on answers, but I'll add this video as a point of reference - When I saw your pics this was the first car I thought of. It was a callaway supernatural 400 that had been in a barn for a long time before I was pulled out and subsequently spun out and thru a few shrubs so it had all kinds of damage

 

[avvblanc01]

Thank you for the answers everyone and thanks for the compliments on the truck! 

that video is exactly what I needed for some inspiration shine doc. 

 

Once the goodies come in the mail, Ill update the thread with some pics of the progress and probably a few more questions haha

 

also feel free to add any other tips for white paint correction. Ive been reading that a light helps to see imperfections when working?

[Chris@Adams]

Don't forget to clay first & good luck.

[07stanggt]

Make sure to take your time as well. Thats a lot of damage to the paint and will be challenging for a first timer with a machine. Definetly work with the lights, it will make it easier to see the imperfections, or lack of, when your done.If done right, you will be blown away with the shine !!Cool truck . Post some after pics.

[Thorsager]

That's a great picture of your truck. The Flex with the 2-step will correct that. Just follow what everyone has already said. That is big truck and will take some time to do so be patient and take your time. My advice on lighting is have a lot of lights and then go get some more. I am constantly moving lights around to be able to see all the imperfections. I think the "light" you are referring to is a swirl finder. I do not use one I just have a lot of lights. Since this is your first time correcting I would concentrate on your technique and use of the products. I learned how to machine polish from all of the Adams videos. Watch the ones on the main website or older ones YouTube. They are all great! Post pictures when you are done.

[ForceofWill]

Don't be afraid to break it up into stages either.  It's going to take a long time to polish that whole truck so if you don't have access to an indoor space with it for over 12 hours just piece it out.

 

You can always wash and clay it then hit up your test spot.  After you're comfortable with what you need done, correct one door or the hood and then seal it.  It makes it much less daunting for me doing a piece as I get time.

[DieselDude]

I agree with Tom it probably will take you alot of hours just to do the whole truck.   When I used Adams on my car several years ago it took me 12 hours to do the whole thing (start to finish).  

[mc2hill]

Yes, get some lights!  I think the halogen lights work better than LED, but they do get very hot.  This is a 50/50 of a white Toyota,  I know, it looks yellow, but it IS white!

 

[vobro]

Not sure if the paint is single stage but I'd order extra pads, whenever I've worked on single stage the pads get gummed up fast. Nice truck and good luck.

[avvblanc01]

Thanks for all the advice!

The truck is regularly clayed, waxed, and sealed as needed so thankfully claying it again for the PC should take me too long. 

I do plan on breaking up the project though since its going to be a slow process as I learn what I'm doing. Hoping to take maybe two days doing it.

 

thanks for the tip on the lights. My garage has fluorescent overhead lighting, and then Im planning on using some extra LED spot lighting to help me out. Hopefully Ill be able to see everything pretty well? 

Im curious to see how hard it is going to be to spot the flash point though. 

 

MC2HILL that photo is getting me all excited! I can't wait for everything to come in the mail!

 

I love photography, so don't worry, Ill be posting more pictures than you guys ever wanted to see of the truck haha

[7thGearandCo.]

Good luck with the project, from the pics you are showng, I'm assuming the paint should improve by 70-80% with a 2 stage method, which would look fantastic.  Work in 2ftX2ft areas and if you have access to compressed air, i would use it frequently to clean the pads as you keep compounding and polishing.  I typically decontaminate my paint with something like a Sonax Fallout Cleaner before i go into my Adams 2 Bucket System and Adams Soap.   We don't know how thick the clear coat is, but keep in mind that when you are compounding, you are only taking a very small amount of clearcoat off, microns...1 micron = .003 millimeters. 

Edited April 5, 2015 by 7thGearandCo.

[avvblanc01]

Good luck with the project, from the pics you are showng, I'm assuming the paint should improve by 70-80% with a 2 stage method, which would look fantastic.  Work in 2ftX2ft areas and if you have access to compressed area, i would use it frequently to clean the pads as you keep compounding and polishing.  I typically decontaminate my paint with something like a Sonax Fallout Cleaner before i go into my Adams 2 Bucket System and Adams Soap.   We don't know how thick the clear coat is, but keep in mind that when you are compounding, you are only taking very small amount of clearcoat off, microns...1 micron = .003 millimeters. 

that makes me feel a lot better about the clear! 

good tip on the decontamination as well. Ill add that to the list of things to do! 

[avvblanc01]

everything came in the mail today! 

 

Flex polisher by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

[Chris@Adams]

Cool!!

[Thorsager]

Nice!!! I really like the Flex.

[blongo804]

Excited to see what you can do! Good luck!!

[avvblanc01]

Okay so I did my test patch and before I go further I'd love some more advice.

 

I did the first black correcting pad on speed setting 3, and then setting 4 for the rest of the pads. I did notice that during the first black correcting pad, the pad and paint surface did get warm, but not hot. I pre-lubed all the pads with detail spray to help but I'm assuming a bit of warmth is normal?

 

The results were pretty dang good, but there are still scratches remaining that you can see in the photos below. To get rid of these do I:

1) do more passes? 

2) use more product?

3) up the speed?

4) move slower?

None are deep enough to feel with a fingernail, but apparently too deep for what I did so far! 

 

Also that one big deep spot got better, but I think it would need wet sanding to truly be removed from the paint...kind of a bummer.

 

here are some photos of the area after all four pads:

 

Before and after line (wow):

Adams paint correction by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

 

example of the light scratches that are still remaining (ignore the bottom right corner, thats the big bad spot):

Adams paint correction by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

 

that one bad spot that just isn't gonna come out  :

Adams paint correction by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

Edited April 9, 2015 by avvblanc01

[avvblanc01]

Oh and heres the flex posing with the truck! 

Adams paint correction by 1991 1st gen, on Flickr

[Junior]

I typically bump it up to 5 on the Flex. Slow is the name of the game. Watch Dylan on that Corvette. He moves slow and steady. You can probably get away with 4 passes per step meaning two vertical and two horizontal. See where that gets you.

[avvblanc01]

I typically bump it up to 5 on the Flex. Slow is the name of the game. Watch Dylan on that Corvette. He moves slow and steady. You can probably get away with 4 passes per step meaning two vertical and two horizontal. See where that gets you.

5 on the flex for all steps? 

[07stanggt]

I run my Flex at 5 to 6 for most paint corrections. I still use Adams Sever Swirl Remover (green in color and has been discontinued) for some real bad paint on 5 to 6, then the orange paint correcting polish usually on 5 and then the white paint finishing polish usually on 4 to 5. It will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on paint condition. Don't forget you can vary the speed with the Flex as well so be careful on corners and edges at full speed.Go slow but keep it moving. 

[blongo804]

That's a great start you did there! I may have missed it, but how many passes did you do? For example, if that is two passes, I would go back at it, go slower as a few have said above, do two more passes and you'll probably knock out the defects further. Turning up the speed to 5 will probably help as well. It's hard to say I guess without being the one doing this lol. 

 

PS. I am digging your camera. I'm no pro, but I do appreciate high res shots like you're posting.

Edited April 9, 2015 by blongo804

[avvblanc01]

The first black pad was probably around 4-5 passes, but I wasn't counting on that one. The rest were about two passes so I'll up the number of passes and the speed as well thanks to your guys advice.

 

I was just worried because the paint and pad were definitely warm when I did the first black correcting pad and I wasn't sure if I was doing too much! 

Thanks for the tip on the corners too. Im tried my best to avoid going too hard on the corners but Its something I was worried about.

Ill go back at it again this afternoon and hopefully get it figured out!

 

I enjoy taking photos so Im glad you appreciated them too! There's no way I could get any of the scratches and marring to show up on my phone camera so out came the DSLR haha