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H2O Guard & Gloss | FAQ's | Discussion


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Adam's H2O Guard & Gloss | Water Activated Exterior Sealant

 

Adam's H20 Guard & Gloss delivers lasting protection and unmatched gloss in a unique water-activated formula that is fast and easy to apply. The incredibly effective blend of acrylic resins and water activated nano-polymers leaves your paint slick and protected without the extra effort and hassle of traditionally applied sealants or waxes. The optical grade polymers won't stain exterior trim, and even leave rubber and plastic looking darker and protected from the elements.

 

Application couldn't be more simple - apply by misting over a wet vehicle and spreading with a premium plush microfiber towel or go for the dry application, using a pre-moistened microfiber towel to apply protection and shine. Regardless of the method you choose you'll agree that Adam's H20 Guard & Gloss is the easist, fastest, and most effective way to seal your paint that you've ever used.

 

Once you experience Adam's H20 Guard & Gloss you'll never want to go back to applying protection any other way.

 

 

FAQ's

 

Q: How does this compare to Detail Spray for drying?

A: DS does not offer tons of protection, and its simply spray and wipe while drying. HGG requires you to spread it over the area then buff off the excess, but it does provide months of protection.

Q: Is this a replacement for Liquid Paint Sealant?

A: No. This can be used as a booster for LPS or you can use it as your only protection.

Q: Do you have to use the wet towel?
A: Yes. The water activated nature of the product requires water for application, without it the product will not work properly so apply to a wet vehicle or use a damp towel.

Q: How long does it last?

A: Its impossible to give a one size fits all answer for every individual since circumstances will cause products to wear differently, but about 2 months would be average longevity per application.

 

Q: Can I use this every wash?
A: You can if you prefer, though it may not need to be applied that often. Use your best judgement.

 

Q: Can this be used on a vinyl wrap?
A: Yes. Gloss wraps can be treated with HGG. Matte wraps can be as well, but the application can be a little more difficult to get right.

 

Q: Can I use this over my existing wax?
A: Yes. HGG will layer over wax, but you may see slightly less longevity.

 

Q: Can I top HGG with a wax afterwards?
A: Absolutely. It behaves like a traditional sealant once its applied.

 

 

 

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Guest washemup

Is their a best ambient  temperature to apply this product? A range of AT for best results? Also with the 2 different application processes, would the dry work better using  distilled water if your water source from your hose is "hard"?

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Is their a best ambient  temperature to apply this product? A range of AT for best results? Also with the 2 different application processes, would the dry work better using  distilled water if your water source from your hose is "hard"?

 

If you're not working in super extreme temperatures you should be fine. If the panel is super hot, just cool it down with some water first. Distilled water is better for everything if you have access to it. You should always use it when diluting products 

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Is their a best ambient  temperature to apply this product? A range of AT for best results? Also with the 2 different application processes, would the dry work better using  distilled water if your water source from your hose is "hard"?

 

Like any product its the extreme ends of the temp scale you have to worry about, average temps you should be fine. I've worked with it down in the upper 40's to low 50's and as hot as mid 80's.

 

As far as water quality, not really a necessary thing... it needs the water to get going, but its not going to perform differently using distilled vs tap. You won't leave water on the surface so even hard water won't be an issue.

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Not same for rinseless.  If using a RTU Waterless, you'd have to apply the HGG off using the "dry" method.

 

However, if you're doing a rinseless wash, just clean the panel with your wet soaked towel, set it aside, spray on the HGG, take your separate damp towel, wipe in, and a dry towel to wipe streak free.

 

I feel like I've posted this 4-5 times already but its a great way during the rinseless washing process to add shine and protection in one step, integrated into your normal rinseless washing routine.

 

OK, I see what you mean. Thanks. 

 

I actually use multiple towels (1 tower per panel) for rinseless so in reality I could use the same towel to apply the HGG then dry to a shine. I put away that towel when I'm done and move on to the next panel with a fresh and damp towel anyways.

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^^^If using a modified GDWM when rinseless washing I would NOT use the same towel you just cleaned a panel with, to apply the HGG (because the dirt you just removed is encapsulated in the towel)

 

Not sure if that is what you were implying.

 

If you are implying clean the panel with your rinseless soaked towel, set aside for laundry, pick up your damp and clean HGG applicator towel to wipe in the HGG, then set that aside to be used with the next panel, then finally a dry towel to pick up any residual water and wipe streak free, then yes, that is a perfect regimen for the HGG integrated into a rinseless washing process.

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Guest washemup

Like any product its the extreme ends of the temp scale you have to worry about, average temps you should be fine. I've worked with it down in the upper 40's to low 50's and as hot as mid 80's.

 

As far as water quality, not really a necessary thing... it needs the water to get going, but its not going to perform differently using distilled vs tap. You won't leave water on the surface so even hard water won't be an issue.

 

Thanks Dylan

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^^^If using a modified GDWM when rinseless washing I would NOT use the same towel you just cleaned a panel with, to apply the HGG (because the dirt you just removed is encapsulated in the towel)

 

Not sure if that is what you were implying.

 

If you are implying clean the panel with your rinseless soaked towel, set aside for laundry, pick up your damp and clean HGG applicator towel to wipe in the HGG, then set that aside to be used with the next panel, then finally a dry towel to pick up any residual water and wipe streak free, then yes, that is a perfect regimen for the HGG integrated into a rinseless washing process.

 

This method worked fine for me while I was testing.  And the advantage of using the same damp towel to apply HGG, is that it you need a little less product as you do more panels.  

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HGG is meant to be a standalone at 2 months per app (you can apply it more often it won't build up) or as a booster to your sealant application.

 

Technically you could get more out of your LPS app with HGG because you are adding a small amount of extra sealant protection with each app

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So if this is used, it pretty much negates the use of the great white since the drying towel will do that. one single soft probably isn't enough as a dry towel then?

 

Can we use the great white as a drying towel, or should we use the MF towels instead

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So if this is used, it pretty much negates the use of the great white since the drying towel will do that. one single soft probably isn't enough as a dry towel then?

 

Can we use the great white as a drying towel, or should we use the MF towels instead

 

There is hardly anything to wipe with the dry fluffy towel, so yes, the GWDT is not needed when applying HGG to a wet car.

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How much water left on the paint is too much?  There is always a lot of water on my hood and roof, so much that if I do not use the Blaster first, a GWDT will be completely soaked from just the hood and roof.

 

Would this much water dilute the HGG too much?

 

On the other hand, how much water should be left on the surface if using the Blaster first, so that there is enough to activate the HGG without having to use the dry method of spraying directly on the damp towel?

 

Ledger64 said that in the Detailer's Domain demo, Dylan blasted the cracks and trim after the HGG, but I am wondering it Blasting first but leaving some water for the HGG would work better.  I hate having to go back and get the drips from the trim, handles, emblems and mirrors.  If these where Blasted after the HGG, then additional towel drying would be required.

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How much water left on the paint is too much?  There is always a lot of water on my hood and roof, so much that if I do not use the Blaster first, a GWDT will be completely soaked from just the hood and roof.

 

Would this much water dilute the HGG too much?

 

On the other hand, how much water should be left on the surface if using the Blaster first, so that there is enough to activate the HGG without having to use the dry method of spraying directly on the damp towel?

 

Ledger64 said that in the Detailer's Domain demo, Dylan blasted the cracks and trim after the HGG, but I am wondering it Blasting first but leaving some water for the HGG would work better.  I hate having to go back and get the drips from the trim, handles, emblems and mirrors.  If these where Blasted after the HGG, then additional towel drying would be required.

Blast first, then spray the HGG into the wet application towel (3-5 sprays) instead of onto the paint.

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^This pretty much Dan.  Get the water out of the cracks and crevices first.

 

I will say though, you don't need to blast off your hood/roof.

 

Its very hydrophobic, so when you spray your roof with 2-3 sprays, about 50-60% of the standing water will run right off.

 

As far as how much is needed to activate it, I used a damp towel, and there was about as much water on the surface as is after cleaning a panel with a rinseless soaked towel.

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FYI to some of you extremely OCD people out there.  If using the white single or double soft towels, you may in fact get a bit of gray staining on the towel you use to wipe in the HGG, even after a thorough wash with MFR.

 

This doesn't bother me, as a clean towel is a clean towel, but before anyone posts up like its a negative I wanted it to be known.

 

I enjoy that the SS towels come with the kit because I save my DS towels for removing sealant residues anyway, so the SS are now dedicated to HGG removal

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