H2O Guard & Gloss | FAQ's | Discussion

[Team Adam's]

Adam's H₂O Guard & Gloss | Water Activated Exterior Sealant

 

Adam's H₂0 Guard & Gloss delivers lasting protection and unmatched gloss in a unique water-activated formula that is fast and easy to apply. The incredibly effective blend of acrylic resins and water activated nano-polymers leaves your paint slick and protected without the extra effort and hassle of traditionally applied sealants or waxes. The optical grade polymers won't stain exterior trim, and even leave rubber and plastic looking darker and protected from the elements.

 

Application couldn't be more simple - apply by misting over a wet vehicle and spreading with a premium plush microfiber towel or go for the dry application, using a pre-moistened microfiber towel to apply protection and shine. Regardless of the method you choose you'll agree that Adam's H₂0 Guard & Gloss is the easist, fastest, and most effective way to seal your paint that you've ever used.

 

Once you experience Adam's H₂0 Guard & Gloss you'll never want to go back to applying protection any other way.

 

 

FAQ's

 

Q: How does this compare to Detail Spray for drying?

A: DS does not offer tons of protection, and its simply spray and wipe while drying. HGG requires you to spread it over the area then buff off the excess, but it does provide months of protection.

Q: Is this a replacement for Liquid Paint Sealant?

A: No. This can be used as a booster for LPS or you can use it as your only protection.

Q: Do you have to use the wet towel?
A: Yes. The water activated nature of the product requires water for application, without it the product will not work properly so apply to a wet vehicle or use a damp towel.

Q: How long does it last?

A: Its impossible to give a one size fits all answer for every individual since circumstances will cause products to wear differently, but about 2 months would be average longevity per application.

 

Q: Can I use this every wash?
A: You can if you prefer, though it may not need to be applied that often. Use your best judgement.

 

Q: Can this be used on a vinyl wrap?
A: Yes. Gloss wraps can be treated with HGG. Matte wraps can be as well, but the application can be a little more difficult to get right.

 

Q: Can I use this over my existing wax?
A: Yes. HGG will layer over wax, but you may see slightly less longevity.

 

Q: Can I top HGG with a wax afterwards?
A: Absolutely. It behaves like a traditional sealant once its applied.

 

 

 

[badhabit_wb]

I used it last night. My z06 is completely covered in xpel ultimate. After the application and buffing it looked like I still had a haze on the car and the windshield. I ended up using 4 or 5 ds towels to buff it out but it still seems to have a slight haze in spots.  Any ideas on how to avoid the haze? I used about 1/4 bottle on the car so that may be too much product but the regular sealant seems to buff off easier on my car. Thanks in advance for any tips.

[butters]

I used it last night. My z06 is completely covered in xpel ultimate. After the application and buffing it looked like I still had a haze on the car and the windshield. I ended up using 4 or 5 ds towels to buff it out but it still seems to have a slight haze in spots.  Any ideas on how to avoid the haze? I used about 1/4 bottle on the car so that may be too much product but the regular sealant seems to buff off easier on my car. Thanks in advance for any tips.

 

I can say with almost certainty, that's too much product. Especially with PPF, I would for example do a single quick spray across the door and use that for the entire door plus window, a-pillar and sideview mirror. A little really does go a long way.

 

To avoid haze I suggest being sure that the car is wet enough... some use a spray bottle of water, I'll use the mist setting on my hose trigger. Also if it's warm/sunny make sure you work on a small enough area so as to not allow any premature drying before you get to buff off with your dry towel.

Edited September 21, 2015 by butters

[badhabit_wb]

I can say with almost certainty, that's too much product.

 

To avoid haze I suggest being sure that the car is wet enough... some use a spray bottle of water, I'll use the mist setting on my hose trigger. Also make sure you work in a small enough area so as to not allow any premature drying before you get to buff off with your dry towel.

At this point should I just wash it again?

[butters]

At this point should I just wash it again?

 

I wouldn't say that's necessary, no.

 

If it ends up hazy while in-process, what you can try doing is going back over the area with the wet applicator towel or perhaps another wet towel that doesn't have so much product on it. Moisture should help to get the surface clear; also make sure your buffing towel has a fresh enough side to use. 

 

A day later, if the car was indoors and not too dusty you could probably just mist the areas with water (or detail spray) and buff from there. I could be mistaken, but my line of thinking here is that you can treat the Xpel in the same way you'd treat a painted finish.

Edited September 21, 2015 by butters

[badhabit_wb]

It's indoors in a conditioned garage. I used detail spray on the hood and it seemed to help. I'll probably just drive it a day or so and then wash it again unless someone with adam's tells me otherwise. I think a lot of the problem was the sprayer. It would be a fine mist and then a blob almost every time I sprayed. I shook the bottle up every time I sprayed but it ended up putting a lot of product down. I only did one section at a time but I probably loaded it up too heavily. I had put on a coat of Adam's sealant a couple of months ago so I just used this as a touch up. I think for me I may just be better off sticking with the sealant. I'm going to try it once more with the dry application method and see if that works better for me. Thanks for your help.

[butters]

It's indoors in a conditioned garage. I used detail spray on the hood and it seemed to help. I'll probably just drive it a day or so and then wash it again unless someone with adam's tells me otherwise. I think a lot of the problem was the sprayer. It would be a fine mist and then a blob almost every time I sprayed. I shook the bottle up every time I sprayed but it ended up putting a lot of product down. I only did one section at a time but I probably loaded it up too heavily. I had put on a coat of Adam's sealant a couple of months ago so I just used this as a touch up. I think for me I may just be better off sticking with the sealant. I'm going to try it once more with the dry application method and see if that works better for me. Thanks for your help.

 

No problem. I've heard that they're looking into the sprayer issue, as many people agree that it's not consistent in its output. I try to squeeze as quick as possible to alleviate, and keep the surface very wet until I go to buff with the dry towel.

[badhabit_wb]

No problem. I've heard that they're looking into the sprayer issue, as many people agree that it's not consistent in its output. I try to squeeze as quick as possible to alleviate, and keep the surface very wet until I go to buff with the dry towel.

I went over the whole car with detail spray again this morning, with a clean towel, and it still had a haze when I went back in to look at it. I took another, clean, microfiber towel and toweled off the haze again. It's on the windshield as well as the xpel so I don't think it's a problem with it being used on xpel. If it looks like there's still a haze on it I'll wash it again and see if that fixes the problem. I have a 3 hour drive tomorrow so I'll take the vette and wash it when I get back.

[JohnnyDev]

It's indoors in a conditioned garage. I used detail spray on the hood and it seemed to help. I'll probably just drive it a day or so and then wash it again unless someone with adam's tells me otherwise. I think a lot of the problem was the sprayer. It would be a fine mist and then a blob almost every time I sprayed. I shook the bottle up every time I sprayed but it ended up putting a lot of product down. I only did one section at a time but I probably loaded it up too heavily. I had put on a coat of Adam's sealant a couple of months ago so I just used this as a touch up. I think for me I may just be better off sticking with the sealant. I'm going to try it once more with the dry application method and see if that works better for me. Thanks for your help.

 

I also had issues over the weekend with it "blobbing" out of the sprayer. Nice product though and no hazing as far as I could tell.

[badhabit_wb]

I also had issues over the weekend with it "blobbing" out of the sprayer. Nice product though and no hazing as far as I could tell.

I washed it again today and polished some spots with detail spray after. It's better but I still had some hazing. Hopefully the next time I wash it it will all go away.

[Dan@Adams]

Hi Herman, I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing hazing issues with H2O Guard & Gloss on your z06, it's my new favorite product! To better understand the issue, I have a few questions

 

I see that you said you applied HGG one panel at a time, which is perfect, but how long did you let the product sit on the paint between spreading it with a wet microfiber towel and then removing it with a dry microfiber? For perfect results, I'm wiping a panel off almost immediately after I have spread the Guard & Gloss evenly across the panel. In other words, from spreading onto a panel to removal is around 30 seconds or so for me.

 

Also, as Stephen mentioned, a little product goes a long way. I will spray two or three sprays max on a door panel for example, and then once my towel is fairly saturated with the product, I will use even less, maybe one or two sprays on something like a side window.

Edited September 24, 2015 by Dan@Adams

[Dan@Adams]

I washed it again today and polished some spots with detail spray after. It's better but I still had some hazing. Hopefully the next time I wash it it will all go away.

Do you have any pictures showing the hazed areas?

 

Since you said washing and hitting it with DS in a few spots helped some, you could also try something like Brilliant Glaze to try to remove the rest of the hazing. If that doesn't do the trick, you could step to Revive Hand Polish and then try reapplying the H2O Guard & Gloss in those areas.

[PerforinTSI]

Just made another hefty order! My wallet is screaming at me. I was originally planning on including Liquid Paint Sealant but changed my mind last minute. Did I make a mistake?

 

I understand that LPS has better longevity than HGG, but let's say this is my routine:

1) Full wash with soap every other week with a rinse less wash in the weeks between.

2) HGG as final step once a month during second full wash with soap.

 

What do I lose out on by not using the Liquid Paint Sealant?

[badhabit_wb]

Hi Herman, I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing hazing issues with H2O Guard & Gloss on your z06, it's my new favorite product! To better understand the issue, I have a few questions

 

I see that you said you applied HGG one panel at a time, which is perfect, but how long did you let the product sit on the paint between spreading it with a wet microfiber towel and then removing it with a dry microfiber? For perfect results, I'm wiping a panel off almost immediately after I have spread the Guard & Gloss evenly across the panel. In other words, from spreading onto a panel to removal is around 30 seconds or so for me.

 

Also, as Stephen mentioned, a little product goes a long way. I will spray two or three sprays max on a door panel for example, and then once my towel is fairly saturated with the product, I will use even less, maybe one or two sprays on something like a side window.

I think the majority of my problem is that I used too much product. I used a little over a quarter bottle on a z06. I think if I'd used half of that it would have been enough. I applied and removed one panel at a time as quickly as I could. I was my car in my garage so depending on how much the A/C, or heat, is running the humidity can get high immediately after i wash a car. The outside temp was a little lower than the A/C setting so I don't think it's coming on a lot so that could have affected things as well. The car is covered with xpel and someone at Adam's told me not to use the brilliant glaze on it but to use the synthetic products like the sealants. The car looks much better after I washed it and it also looks better than it did before I applied the G&G. I think one more was or detail spray will take care of the problem and since I wash it almost every time I drive it I will know by the first of next week. I'm going to try the product again in about a month and use just enough that I know I have things covered. I think I had a combination of issues, too much product, and too much humidity.  Hopefully next time I get it right. Thanks for the help.

[badhabit_wb]

Do you have any pictures showing the hazed areas?

 

Since you said washing and hitting it with DS in a few spots helped some, you could also try something like Brilliant Glaze to try to remove the rest of the hazing. If that doesn't do the trick, you could step to Revive Hand Polish and then try reapplying the H2O Guard & Gloss in those areas.

I didn't take and pics but I doubt that it will show up well at this point. If washing it and using detail spray, again, doesn't clear it up I will try that. I have revive and brilliant glaze so either one is available. Is brilliant glaze ok for xpel ultimate? Thanks.

[stripesace]

I did a Toyota Camry and Highlander with about 2-3oz of HGG.

[badhabit_wb]

I did a Toyota Camry and Highlander with about 2-3oz of HGG.

Sounds like I used about 4 times what I should have then. That's probably the majority of my problem.

[butters]

Just made another hefty order! My wallet is screaming at me. I was originally planning on including Liquid Paint Sealant but changed my mind last minute. Did I make a mistake?

 

I understand that LPS has better longevity than HGG, but let's say this is my routine:

1) Full wash with soap every other week with a rinse less wash in the weeks between.

2) HGG as final step once a month during second full wash with soap.

 

What do I lose out on by not using the Liquid Paint Sealant?

 

I asked this same question myself a few pages back, as my routine is very similar and I decided to not lay down a base of LPS.

 

I have no scientific rationale  and didn't get a big discussion in response to the question, but I don't think you're losing out on much. If anything, we might just not have the ability to go longer between G&G applications.

[Ricky Bobby]

^Agreed.  If you are sealing once a month with G&G, you are continually adding layers of protection, so you could skip the LPS if you wanted.

[JLKoupe]

I didn't take and pics but I doubt that it will show up well at this point. If washing it and using detail spray, again, doesn't clear it up I will try that. I have revive and brilliant glaze so either one is available. Is brilliant glaze ok for xpel ultimate? Thanks.

 

I have an xpel clear bra on my coupe and have had good luck with Revive for cleaning up all sorts of problems.

[badhabit_wb]

I have an xpel clear bra on my coupe and have had good luck with Revive for cleaning up all sorts of problems.

Thanks. I think this will clear up with another wash but if it doesn't I will try revive. 

[LT1xL82]

... The car is covered with xpel and someone at Adam's told me not to use the brilliant glaze on it but to use the synthetic products like the sealants. ...

 

My car is also covered in Xpel.

 

I tried Liquid Paint Sealant, H20 G&G and Xpel Sealant and saw no effect compared to Rinselss as waterless wash followed by Detail Spray. Maybe the protection (Xpel) was being protected by the protection (sealants...) but visually there was no improvement.

 

I was hoping Brilliant Glaze would be the answer...but your post has me thinking this may not be the case. 

[badhabit_wb]

My car is also covered in Xpel.

 

I tried Liquid Paint Sealant, H20 G&G and Xpel Sealant and saw no effect compared to Rinselss as waterless wash followed by Detail Spray. Maybe the protection (Xpel) was being protected by the protection (sealants...) but visually there was no improvement.

 

I was hoping Brilliant Glaze would be the answer...but your post has me thinking this may not be the case. 

The liquid paint sealant worked great and I thing the g&g will too. I think I just applied too much and the humidity was high as well. I'd ask someone at adam's about the brilliant glaze as I may be mistaken about not using it on  xpel. I looked back through my emails and I had one that said all of the products would work since they didn't have petroleum in them. I wouldn't use wax because my installer said it would cause problems with dirt collecting around the edges.

Edited September 25, 2015 by badhabit_wb

[ematt1212]

Black 2011 Camaro RS: Wash and G&G

Red 2001 BMW Z3; Wash and G&G

[Chris@Adams]

They look real good!

[NG13]

Really like the G&G. Did my 3rd application today and found a system that worked good for me. I used a borderless gray towel wet for application, another dry for buffing off residue then touched up with detail spray and a double soft. I started with just the two towels but doing a CC pickup my dry towel wasn't dry enough to do a good job after about half of the truck. I did one panel at a time and removed the residue as soon as I was done spreading it.

 

I noticed the sprayer problem (not a fine mist but some mist and a blob or two) everyone has mentioned but I don't see where that is much of an issue. You are going to take a towel and smear it all around to even it out anyways. It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the product overall, just a little strange if you don't expect it. Has anyone tryed a 32oz dilution bottle w/ G&G in it? Does it have the same spray problem?