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storing temperature


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Hi Josh, some of our chemical products can indeed be affected by the cold and extreme heat in the negative sense and you do want to get them out of that cold garage. I actually move ALL of my 16oz bottles and gallons from my attached insulated garage into the warmer basement next to it, as my garage can dip down to the 45 degree range if I don't have the small infrared heater running.

 

Here's a quote straight from a post Adam made on here:

 

Great Question! Chemicals HATE temperature change. It's as important to avoid storing chemicals in a hot garage as it is to store them in a freezing cold garage.

You will see chemicals separate, get watery, or clumpy after getting too hot or cold.

What is officially too hot, or too cold? Below 50 degrees, and above 90 are temps that can cause the emulsions, blends, and surfactants to change. Once that temp changes, the chemical will not work the same, it may not mix together, and most always the color will change.

Detail Spray - Dark Red
VRT - Clear, and watery
Buttery Wax - clumpy, like rotten milk

Etc etc etc.

Thanks for the question, and if possible, take all of your chemicals that you care about, and put them away for the winter if you live in a cold climate.

Adam :thumbsup:

 

And here is the FAQ all about chemical shelf life and storage:

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/17083-faq-do-the-products-have-a-shelf-life/

 

Please let us know if you have any other questions and we'll be happy to help out :)

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Thank you guys. Have any of you made temperature controlled boxes?

 

Like made one out of wood and lined with foam insulation board?  Similar to what could be achieved with a large cooler?  Most of my product is stored downstairs in a room that maintains a fairly consistent temperature and is dark.  My garage is heated too (100K btu), and I maintain the temp of 55 degrees if I'm not out there.

 

Might be cheaper and easier to just buy a large cooler as opposed to making a temperature controlled box.  Unless your looking to fit in a specific area. And maybe cover with some sort of a blanket for added warmth. 

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Yea that's what I was thinking but won't a cooler eventually become the same temperature as ambiant?

 

That was the reasoning for adding a blanket.  It would serve the same purpose as the insulation in your house.  It wouldn't keep it toasty, but would definitely keep things from freezing.

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So I found a video of a guy that was into growing plants and to keep the seedlings warm he used a rope light with a tile on top of it. He said the ambiant temp outside was in the 30s and inside his box was high 50s low 60s. Sounds like a plan to me

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So I found a video of a guy that was into growing plants and to keep the seedlings warm he used a rope light with a tile on top of it. He said the ambiant temp outside was in the 30s and inside his box was high 50s low 60s. Sounds like a plan to me

 

So your comment reminded me of some things.  My very first job I had as a kid I worked in a green house.  We would raise a lot of plants from seeds.  The seed tent had these under them to help keep the seedlings warm.  You could get one and put a hole in the side for the cord.

 

Why don't you just keep your product in the house during the winter months?

Edited by LFairbanks
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Honestly, all of my stuff lives in the basement year round, it stays about 55-70 all year, the colder temps in the winter and warmer in the summer of course. Yeah its a pain to get things out for a big detail but having the Adams bag now makes it so much easier to do the small jobs. 

 

Also keep in mind with your storage, you want to avoid direct sunlight. 

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speaking of which ^    What is the most economical way to maintain a descent (upper 50's ish )temp in a detached insulated garage in the winter.  I've heard and experienced the infrared ones can get costly, as we used one in our basement last year and it seemed to jump  the electric bill quite a bit.  In Southern Indiana we can see teens through 30's pretty regularly in the winter.  Along with detailing supplies I keep my Firebird and Tractor out there so it would be nice to have it temp controlled somewhat.  

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speaking of which ^    What is the most economical way to maintain a descent (upper 50's ish )temp in a detached insulated garage in the winter.  I've heard and experienced the infrared ones can get costly, as we used one in our basement last year and it seemed to jump  the electric bill quite a bit.  In Southern Indiana we can see teens through 30's pretty regularly in the winter.  Along with detailing supplies I keep my Firebird and Tractor out there so it would be nice to have it temp controlled somewhat.  

 

I would say natural gas.  It may involve having your gas line extended to your detached garage which could be expensive.  You could save some money I'm sure by digging the trench yourself.  You would have to check your local codes to see at what depth you would need to dig.  A pellet stove could be a cheap way too.  Nothing needed but the stove and the venting itself, some pellets, and regular cleaning.  I have one in my basement and love that thing.  It runs off a thermostat and comes on and shuts off like a furnace.  I can make it as hot as I want and not listen to the wife complain that it is too hot.  The thermostat that runs the furnace is upstairs.  

 

Maybe check with your local gas utility company and see what they charge or recommend on extending your gas line.  Pretty sure anymore it is just some yellow plastic pipe that they just bury in a trench.  Can't imagine the pipe being expensive.  Usually labor is what is expensive.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_heaters-stoves-fireplaces

Edited by LFairbanks
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I don't know about natural gas because we don't have it here but here electric is the best bang for your buck. And the best use of electric is to use a heat pump. I would look into a ductless unit. A bonus would be A/C in the summer!

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I don't know about natural gas because we don't have it here but here electric is the best bang for your buck. And the best use of electric is to use a heat pump. I would look into a ductless unit. A bonus would be A/C in the summer!

 

Heat Pumps don't work well if your temperature dips below 40 degrees on a regular basis.

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Heat Pumps don't work well if your temperature dips below 40 degrees on a regular basis.

 

I would have to disagree, we had one installed at work and it was still putting out good heat when temps were in the high teens. They used to only work in the warmer temps but technology has gotten better and these units are sometimes being used in newengland as sole sources for heat.

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I would have to disagree, we had one installed at work and it was still putting out good heat when temps were in the high teens. They used to only work in the warmer temps but technology has gotten better and these units are sometimes being used in newengland as sole sources for heat.

 

Are you sure it didn't jump over to emergency heat?  A heat pump works the reverse of an air conditioner and pulls heat from outside.  When the temperature outside drops there isn't anything to pull.  It looks like they have come down somewhat as far as temperature and efficiencies.  Down to 25 - 30 degrees, and I'm sure that is probably for a top of the line unit.  Looks like a heat pump is similarly rated like an air conditioner with a seer rating.  Minimum requirement is 14 seer as of January 2015.  Some people still have 10 seer rated equipment.

 

Most people aren't going to spend a small fortune on a system.  I know when I bought my equipment in 2007 it was the top of the line in what Lennox offered.  It also cost me $11,300.  They tried to sell me a heat pump and I turned it down.  He mentioned too that they system would switch flawlessly from a heat pump to the furnace depending on what it thought would be most efficient.   He also told me that the industry was having a hard time getting efficiencies down due to size.  You figure you have to have a larger surface area to dissipate heat, and collect heat with a heat pump.  And that larger area is what would also make a heat pump more efficient.  You mentioned it was equipment at work, they would typically have higher end equipment than what a homeowner would purchase. Looks like Lennox has recently introduced an air conditioner more efficient than what I bought 8 years ago.  But the size doesn't appear to come down any.

Edited by LFairbanks
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Here is what I was referring to......

 

High efficiency cooling and heating.

Advanced triple-action air filtration.

High performance Hyper-Heating down to -13° F outdoor ambient.

 

What happens when your heat pump can't keep up?

 

For most heat pumps, the supplemental heat source is electric resistance (strip) heat. When the heat pump can no longer pull enough heat from outside to meet the heating load of the house, the electric resistance heat comes on and supplements the heat pump. If you have an all-electric home, your supplemental heat source is almost certainly electric resistance heat.

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My entire house is Energy Star certified and runs on electricity only - no natural gas or propane or anything. It has an electric heat pump with an auxiliary/emergency heat. Even when it's 5 degrees outside, the Nest barely ever clicks on the Aux. heat source. My electricity bill is typically around $50/mo during the winter too...I love how insulated this house is, lol.

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$50 a month??? That would be awesome, and is almost hard to believe.  I can't get away from an average bill of $100 a month and that is the winter months and I have no appliances that are electric, outside of usual items like refrigerator and freezer.  Summer it jumps up to about $230 a month with the a/c and maintaining 70 degrees.  My house is 2x6 exterior walls with sprayed in expanding foam in the exterior walls.  Never had it energy star certified as I did the construction myself.  My windows are Milgard too.  

 

I pay about $130 a month for natural gas in the coldest part of winter, $30 in the summer for 2 (natural gas) water heaters.  That is heating my house (4K sq. ft.) and the garage.  

 

And according to the information below, we pay less for electricity in Utah than you do in Pennsylvania.

 

https://www.electricchoice.com/electricity-prices-by-state/

 

http://www.eia.gov/electricity/state/

 

A sign of a poorly insulated house is one with a bunch of icicles.

Edited by LFairbanks
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Yeah, my bill is on a budget, so it will fluctuate from $100 one month to $19 the next sometimes, even during the hot summer months. It's just me living at the house though, so I have minimal lights and appliances running throughout the day :)

 

My whole attic is sealed off, all of the cement block in the foundation and garage were drilled and foamed inside, as well as crazy foam insulation throughout the rest of the house, e-coat windows. In the middle of winter, I will still see snow on my roof when it has melted off all of the other houses in the neighborhood, which is a good thing as long as there isn't a foot of it up there! lol

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I would think having your attic sealed off would be a bad thing.  Especially in the summer months.

 

http://www.angieslist.com/articles/why-are-asphalt-shingles-my-roof-curling.htm

 

http://www.lindusconstruction.com/blog/2013/07/my-roofs-shingles-are-curling-whats-up-with-that/

 

Reason #4: Improper Attic Ventilation

However, the most likely reason that your shingles are curling has nothing to do with the roof itself! Instead, the most likely scenario is that your attic is improperly ventilated. Attics need to have vents installed, but do you know why? These vents help move air that's full of moisture through the attic instead of letting it become stagnant. Moisture rich stagnant air will eventually condense inside the attic and cause the decking to become damp, which leads to mold and loosens the adhesive, causing curling.

Another reason attic ventilation is important is that without it, the attic can reach very high temperatures since the trapped, hot air has nowhere to go. The hot air reduces the adhesive's effectiveness. Many people are worried that attic vents can cause their heating and cooling bills to skyrocket since air is flowing freely throughout the space, but the right insulation can keep costs down -- and your roofing safe.

 

http://www.articlesfactory.com/articles/home-repair/hints-from-roofing-contractors-why-do-shingles-curl.html

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We only use about 200 gallons of oil between September and May in a house my wifes  grandfather built in 1945.The walls are only hand packed insulation and vinyl sided we put 28 vinyl replacement windows ten years ago and that's it. The down side is what my body pays for cutting and splitting 10-12 cords of wood 5-6 for us and the same for my out-laws lol.    

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