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Claying


flamefighter

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Clay mitts and blocks are a gimmick. Stick with a good quality clay bar, and Adam's is one of the best.  I use it with Detail Spray as the lubricant but you can use products like Waterless Wash to lube it as well.  Be sure to fold it often and keep it in the jar it comes in.  You should only need to clay your car once or twice a year, so your clay bar should be good for that long at the very least.  I do replace mine every year.  

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Clay mitts and blocks are a gimmick. Stick with a good quality clay bar, and Adam's is one of the best.  I use it with Detail Spray as the lubricant but you can use products like Waterless Wash to lube it as well.  Be sure to fold it often and keep it in the jar it comes in.  You should only need to clay your car once or twice a year, so your clay bar should be good for that long at the very least.  I do replace mine every year.  

 

I'm not sure where you are getting your information Rich, but that is false. Maybe you've never tried them before... but clay mitts and clay blocks are NOT gimmicks, they work great and are much faster and economical for claying. 

 

As opposed to traditional clay that needs to be folded every couple panels to be effective (and safe), a clay block can simply be wiped with a microfiber towel. Drop a piece of clay on the ground and it has to go in the trash, drop a clay block on the ground, no problem - just rinse it and wipe with a towel and it is good as new. 

 

Some people report light marring when using clay alternatives such as these, but in my testing (and many other professional's testing) that only has occurred on the softest of paints - which traditional clay also can mar. As you stated, you should only need to clay your car once or twice a year, which is how often most people will at least use a light finishing polish on the paint - which would get rid of any marring you most likely won't have unless you have soft black paint. As long as you're properly lubricating the surface, you will be fine. 

 

Clay alternatives are twice as fast (at least) as traditional clay and cheaper over the long run. As a professional, clay alternatives are extremely valuable. As a weekend warrior, clay alternatives can be just as useful. 

 

Unless you have extremely soft dark paint or just enjoy spending more time than necessary I don't see why you wouldn't want to use a clay alternative. Sure, there are still times where I use traditional clay, in tight spots where the clay block won't fit or on those rare occasions I'm dealing with soft dark paint and not polishing afterwards. Polishing would remove any possible mark left behind from claying.  

 

I can understand Adam's reasoning for not selling clay alternatives, both from a numbers standpoint among other reasons - but just because Adam's doesn't sell it doesn't mean it's bad. A good indicator that this technology is not a gimmick would be taking a look around at all the pro detailers in the industry right now - we're using clay alternatives and resorting to traditional clay only when needed. 

 

My $.02

 

-Tim

Edited by lax
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I recently purchased a couple of major brand clay alternative sponges. I have used them on both paint and glass with generous amounts of Adams Detail Spray as lube and so far very pleased with the results.

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Tim....very well and diplomatically stated.  Clay alternatives work just fine.  

 

Do they micro mar?  Possibly, under some circumstances.  But if you're polishing anyway........

Are they 100% effective?  Nope, cause they can't get into every nook and cranny, especially if you're using a pad on a PC.  

Are they for everyone? No, they are more expensive and the average guy won't use it enough to justify the expense vs effective ratio

 

If you're doing this for a living, they are essential.  For me, using a  clay alternative is much less expensive than shoulder surgery.  I use both the light and medium pads for the PC and also have a light mit.  I use them so frequently that even those get replaced about 3 times per year.  That being said, there is still an Adam's Clay bar on my shelf and I'm quick to grab it for small things and for doing demos for customers and clinics.  

 

And, as Chaw suggested, the blue bar isn't great.  The softer gray one was better and I was in a conversation with DVK/ShineDoc prior to his recent departure about bringing the gray one back.   I'd like to see the old clay come back......

 

- Darryl

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Clay alternatives really are not more expensive than traditional clay (if we're talking about a simple clay block). Adam's clay is $25. I won't mention the clay alternative I use even though Adam's doesn't sell one so it is technically allowed - but I will say that it is currently $11.69 on Amazon and the most I've paid for this particular clay block is $14. So seeing as it lasts much longer than traditional clay it is actually much cheaper both cost of entry and in the long run. 

 

In the past year there has been exactly 1 instance where the clay block did not fit in an area I needed it to and I had to use regular clay. For the DA clay disk of course that can't fit anywhere, but that's what the smaller clay block is for. 

 

A very respected detail brand also sells a 6" clay pad for a DA for $29.99. 

 

So the clay alternatives being more expensive argument is basically gone - they definitely used to be more expensive than clay, but not anymore. 

Edited by lax
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I guess i am old school on claying, I started using the clay bar in the early to mid 90's. I haven't got the opportunity to try any of the clay alternatives.....someday I will have to.

 

Nothing wrong with sticking with what you've always done! They're worth trying for $12 though. 

 

Clay alternatives seem to get shamed on on this forum by many (and it seems the ones doing it have never even tried them). I decided to conduct my own testing a while back for this reason and came to the conclusion I wrote above. Just because something is newer doesn't make it bad. 

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Clay alternatives really are not more expensive than traditional clay (if we're talking about a simple clay block). Adam's clay is $25. I won't mention the clay alternative I use even though Adam's doesn't sell one so it is technically allowed - but I will say that it is currently $11.69 on Amazon and the most I've paid for this particular clay block is $14. So seeing as it lasts much longer than traditional clay it is actually much cheaper both cost of entry and in the long run. 

 

In the past year there has been exactly 1 instance where the clay block did not fit in an area I needed it to and I had to use regular clay. For the DA clay disk of course that can't fit anywhere, but that's what the smaller clay block is for. 

 

A very respected detail brand also sells a 6" clay pad for a DA for $29.99. 

 

So the clay alternatives being more expensive argument is basically gone - they definitely used to be more expensive than clay, but not anymore. 

Hi Tim can you PM me the info from amazon on the clay alternative. I am going to get the Adams because I love the products. Thanks

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Clay always has a place on my shelf, however, its more of a maintenance use product for me, i.e. if I just polished and sealed, and got some overspray, I may pull out the clay, but I do reach for it less and less.  The fine grade sponge clay alternative, when used not in cold temps (below 45 or so but not many of us are claying then) and with plenty of lubricant, and broken in on glass first, will not mar paint.

 

Only marring I've seen with the clay alternatives comes from either using in too much heat (lubricant dries up too fast) or too cold (polymer surface does not soften up enough), or not enough lubricant (you should be using more than with clay bar and saturating the surface with a pressure/garden sprayer and lubricant of choice, Adams Waterless or diluted Rinseless works great) - My fine grade sponge has been used about 10 times already and still is working awesome.

 

I do love claying, and its very therapeutic, however, as a detailer we should always be making the most of the time saving and efficient processes at our disposal. 

 

Carry on with your decontamination product of choice, sometimes on really hammered cars I will do a 3 step decontamination process - iron out (DWC diluted 1:1), followed by fine grade sponge, followed by a quick run of clay to get anything left, now let me tell you how friggin nice and smooth the paint is after that :)

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I have nothing against clay alternatives, Adam and I even tested some new prototype products out at the HQ back in October; however from a safety and ease of use perspective, our goal is to provide a simple solution for all experience levels of customers that works effectively.

 

Yes the blue clay is a bit too firm, but it still works fairly well. We moved to the blue clay because too many people complained about the gray clay being too sticky and sticking to their fingers. I personally loved the gray clay and just sprayed my hand with detail spray first to minimize the sticking to my fingers. The bottom line is that it is difficult to please everyone :)

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I found the purple bar to be the worst when it come to sticking to your fingers and everything else.  In fact the trigger on my detail spray bottle is caked with the stuff.  It got to where I would wear rubber gloves to prevent it.  There is even a spot or two on my concrete where I would try and pick the stuff of my fingers and it is still stuck there, a couple years later.

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And, as Chaw suggested, the blue bar isn't great. The softer gray one was better and I was in a conversation with DVK/ShineDoc prior to his recent departure about bringing the gray one back. I'd like to see the old clay come back......

 

- Darryl

I may or may not be testing some new stuff :secret:

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Yes the blue clay is a bit too firm, but it still works fairly well. We moved to the blue clay because too many people complained about the gray clay being too sticky and sticking to their fingers. I personally loved the gray clay and just sprayed my hand with detail spray first to minimize the sticking to my fingers. The bottom line is that it is difficult to please everyone :)

 

I did the same "spray the hand" technique. It really pulled dirt off the surface very well. Anxious to see what you may or may not be testing.

Edited by Odds and Ends
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I may or may not be testing some new stuff :secret:

 

Dan are you testing USA or Japanese clay?  I sent Dylan a referral to a great bar shortly before he left as he said you guys were looking into options, I tested a blue bar for him (not sure if this is the current version) but it pulled like Gumby lol! - Shoot me a PM if you need any feedback or help with any upcoming clay replacements or updates

Edited by Ricky Bobby
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Had a great conversation with Dan yesterday about this very subject on the phone. I also agree, love the old grey bar, a little detail spray on your hands, and eliminates the sticky feel. The first batch of blue clay bars are as stiff as an old granola bar, not pliable enough to bend under door handles or bend around quater panels etc.Dan is replacing the old one for a new one (great customer service as usual !!) and wont say he's testing a new clay bar but...................

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