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Water deionizers


USCGRetiredJosh

Question

I'm looking at getting a water deionizer and wanted to see what other people had and there thoughts. I'm looking at the Griots one. I know CR spotless makes some but they look like the will need to be changed more often than some other deionizes. Another one i'm looking at is the on the go single and dual tank options. 

 

My water TDS varies from 300 to 400 every time I test the water.Since i have to wash outside with little to no shade and deionizer would help against water spots.

 

Thanks for your input.

Josh

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CR Spotless says 300gallons per resin. Who all are you looking at? 

 

CR Spotless is probably pretty wasteful without a pressure washer thats only pulling 1.2-1.6GPM. By that standard 300 gallons will last a long time if you're using it for rinsing only. The cost is the only thing keeping me away right now. 

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At 300-400 ppm, your cost-per-wash is going to be high, even with using a pressure washer.  The was a table on the CR Spotless website which showed how many gallons you would get for different levels of hardness, but their website is not coming up.

 

I am also fairly certain that many of the different brands are using the same resin, so their marketing claims of how much before refills may not be that accurate.

 

Check out this post for info on the CR Spotless:

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27009-adamized-the-raptor/?p=440613

 

Also, you can get a drum of resin, which is three refills on the big unit, from CR Spotless.  Buying in bulk reduces the cost on the resin.

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I would compare the documented gallons-per-refill for each different unit, at your water TDS.  Don't just go by "up to 300 gallons" in the sales info. Also figure out the cost-per-pound on the different resin refills.

 

Also, go with the biggest canisters, so you are not having to replace the resin as often.  If you are having to replace it every month, it might end up being too much work.  The bigger canisters also decrease the chance that your resin will run out during a wash.  This is makes having an inline TDS meter a MUST.  You don't want to have to check with a portable meter, and definitely do not want to find out too late that your resin was spent.

 

Also note that just using DI water for the rinse still leaves hard water in all the cracks and crevices, which can run out and cause spots if not blown-out and dried off.

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I stumbled upon your discussion and created an account to chime in. I just finished building a deionizing filter that should be pretty similar to the CRSpotless systems in general design and function but for far less money than buying it from them. Their systems are nothing really proprietary, but they do look to be pretty well designed and built so I am not disparaging them. They use readily available components anyone can order and building it yourself is generally less expensive, but there certainly is a convenience in buying a commercial product. I decided to tinker with my own just for fun. I am waiting for a couple of minor parts one of the vendors left out of the shipment (some screws and a mounting bracket), but the functional pieces should all be assembled later today and I am hoping to test the system this weekend (supposed to rain tonight and tomorrow here in AZ).  If the system works as expected, I will happily post my design and the sources from which I ordered the various parts and materials. I even found a source with amazing prices on the same ResinTech MBD-10 mixed bed resin CRSpotless and others seem to use. I built in the same sort of in-line Total Dissolved Solids (TDM) meter to monitor output quality and resin depletion. Some of the fittings and adapters can be found online and many are available in your local hardware store. The filter housings, refillable cartridges and resin are all available from quite a few different online suppliers. 

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I stumbled upon your discussion and created an account to chime in. I just finished building a deionizing filter that should be pretty similar to the CRSpotless systems in general design and function but for far less money than buying it from them. Their systems are nothing really proprietary, but they do look to be pretty well designed and built so I am not disparaging them. They use readily available components anyone can order and building it yourself is generally less expensive, but there certainly is a convenience in buying a commercial product. I decided to tinker with my own just for fun. I am waiting for a couple of minor parts one of the vendors left out of the shipment (some screws and a mounting bracket), but the functional pieces should all be assembled later today and I am hoping to test the system this weekend (supposed to rain tonight and tomorrow here in AZ). If the system works as expected, I will happily post my design and the sources from which I ordered the various parts and materials. I even found a source with amazing prices on the same ResinTech MBD-10 mixed bed resin CRSpotless and others seem to use. I built in the same sort of in-line Total Dissolved Solids (TDM) meter to monitor output quality and resin depletion. Some of the fittings and adapters can be found online and many are available in your local hardware store. The filter housings, refillable cartridges and resin are all available from quite a few different online suppliers.

Welcome to the forum!

 

I look forward to seeing your build, and very interested in the resin supplier info.

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Welcome to the forum!

 

I look forward to seeing your build, and very interested in the resin supplier info.

Dan,

Looks like this guy joined the forum, posted this 1 post, and hasn't returned since.  Did you happen to message him and find out his source for cheaper resin by chance?

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FWIW; I bought a CR Spotless system last month and I am very satisfied with it. There are 10% codes and they offer free shipping. I have heard people say they are also sold at Costco stores. They also have a deal where if you purchase a system direct from CR and make a YouTube video featuring the system they will send you a free resin refill. I did just that and recieved my free resin within a few weeks.


 


I know the cost drives a lot of people away but If you can swing it you should definitely get one


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No, I never heard back from him.

Have you ordered the bulk container of resin from CR?  I'm curious what the dimensions of the container are, diameter x height.  The picture looks rather large, but 2 packs for (1) refill of the large unit aren't that big, so I I'm wondering how big this container is for (3) refills worth of resin.  I sent an email to CR a couple of days ago, but still no response.  Thanks

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Yeah, I just used my 2 bag refill and it comes in a fairly compact box as you say.  But, looking to order a bulk container they sell that isn't bagged, just bulk resin, that will refill the large unit 3 times.  The pic on the website makes the container look quite large, but based on the 1 refill (2 bags) size, it shouldn't be that big.  I was just curious for storage purposes.

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Have you ordered the bulk container of resin from CR?  I'm curious what the dimensions of the container are, diameter x height.  The picture looks rather large, but 2 packs for (1) refill of the large unit aren't that big, so I I'm wondering how big this container is for (3) refills worth of resin.  I sent an email to CR a couple of days ago, but still no response.  Thanks

 

Yes, I use the bulk resin refill in the drum.

 

 

Perfect.  Thanks for tracking that down.  The pics made the thing look very big.

 

 Here's a pic showing the relative size.

 

20150926_114804.jpg

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Thanks! I will need to order a canister.

 

I am in the process of installing a drain petcock on the bottom of the canisters.  I drilled, tapped, and did some grinding on one last night, then sealed in a petcock and let it cure over night.  I don't like the idea of leaving the water in the canisters.  Hopefully it all works as I plan and envision.

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Here are some pics of my petcock drain install. Only doing 1 canister for now to verify it works properly, but not sure why it wouldn't. I did order a spare, refurbished canister from CR @$20, which seems like a good price for a slightly scratched/dinged unit.

 

Basically cut a groove in the ring the washer sits on to allow water to get to the center, and then cut the center post down to allow the valve to be above the surface when in the open position. The metal ring at the top of the canister will keep it centered. There isn't much room for the canister to float on the lower end anyway.

post-84-0-69945600-1469816264_thumb.jpg

post-84-0-30000700-1469816293_thumb.jpg

post-84-0-73887800-1469816340_thumb.jpg

post-84-0-28645900-1469816371_thumb.jpg

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