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Revive Hand Polish to remove LSPs?

jakerodz7

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jakerodz7

jakerodz7

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Question for you guys,

 

I am finally finding the time to slowly paint correct my car, still new at it so it is taking me a lot longer than it would most of you guys.  I am doing sections at a time whenever I get an hour or so to myself throughout the week.  I then remove the excess and protect with some buttery wax (this is only short term while I correct the entire car).

 

My question is this, once I have corrected my whole car I would like to remove any of the Buttery Wax and other LSPs left on the paint and treat the entire car with Liquid Paint Sealant. Would Revive Hand Polish be "strong enough" to remove the LPSs from my paint or would I have to use something a bit more aggressive to remove them and proceed to treat the whole car with Paint Sealant?

 

If it is the case that Revive isn't "strong enough" then I am open to suggestions about what would be the best way to remove them and have a "clean paint slate" on which to apply the paint sealant.  Also if it is in fact "strong enough" would I have to use any of the hex grip applicators in particular or would the blue one work?

 

Thanks for your input/help guys!

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jakerodz7

jakerodz7

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If it were me I think that I would just add a couple ounces of APC to my wash water, it would be much quicker.

APC really/ well I have plenty of that, sounds good to me! Thanks for the tip!

 

You could also just use Dawn dish soap, as that will remove any old wax when you wash it. 

I will definitely keep the dawn as an option, but since I have APC I think I will try with that first. Thanks for the input brother!

 

2 ounces of Car Shampoo plus 4 ounces of APC in your wash bucket and wash the car.

Perfect, that's 2 votes for APC, I will do that when I am all done polishing, hopefully it does not take too long! Thanks for your input brother!

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jakerodz7

jakerodz7

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Why not just do the paint sealant on each panel after you correct? It doesn't take any longer than doing buttery wax. And then if you wanted to, you could do a second coat over the whole car when you finish.

That would be better however I don't know that I would have the time to correct one panel all the way through in one sitting. Since this is the daily I would rather use buttery wax  as some short-term protection.  I then want to seal the whole car at the same time so the sealant has somewhat the same longevity. That and I don't have the paint sealant until the end of the week according to Adam's :unsure: and I should hopefully be done with a couple panels by then.

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marquez93

marquez93

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You could just leave the panels that you do unprotected for a couple of days until you get the sealant. It's not that big of a deal. And worrying about similar longevity on panels that you seal within a matter of days or even weeks apart is overkill. Especially if you do a second coat later.

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The Guz

The Guz

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You could also just use Dawn dish soap, as that will remove any old wax when you wash it. 

 

I would save Dawn for the dishes and use a strip wash or polish. 

 

Why not just do the paint sealant on each panel after you correct? It doesn't take any longer than doing buttery wax. And then if you wanted to, you could do a second coat over the whole car when you finish.

 

I would do this as well. 

 

You could just leave the panels that you do unprotected for a couple of days until you get the sealant. It's not that big of a deal. And worrying about similar longevity on panels that you seal within a matter of days or even weeks apart is overkill. Especially if you do a second coat later.

 

Another good idea. 

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jakerodz7

jakerodz7

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You could just leave the panels that you do unprotected for a couple of days until you get the sealant. It's not that big of a deal. And worrying about similar longevity on panels that you seal within a matter of days or even weeks apart is overkill. Especially if you do a second coat later.

Really? Alright then, I will go ahead and do that.  I didn't know that it wouldn't make a huge difference I just wanted to be safe since I know we have rain predicted for this week and didn't want it falling on unprotected paint.  Thanks to Los Angeles up north our rain isn't the softest. Thanks for the advice Matt! 

 

Just to make sure it's clear: you should strip wash BEFORE polishing.

Really? I didn't know that. Thanks for the clarification Roger! I will go ahead and do that for the rest of the car and just do what Matt suggested and seal after polishing each section! You guys are awesome!  :2thumbs:

Edited by jakerodz7
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Beemer

Beemer

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Really? I didn't know that. Thanks for the clarification Roger! I will go ahead and do that for the rest of the car and just do what Matt suggested and seal after polishing each section! You guys are awesome!  :2thumbs:

 

Yep, really. Sealants and waxes will tend to clog up your polishing pads and it will take longer to get the best finish.

 

Strip wash, then clay, then polish.

 

If you are only going to be polishing a small section at a time (I've done this often) you can substitute a diluted isopropyl alcohol wipe for the strip wash. Just wipe down the section you are planning to polish and go to it.

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jakerodz7

jakerodz7

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Yep, really. Sealants and waxes will tend to clog up your polishing pads and it will take longer to get the best finish.

 

Strip wash, then clay, then polish.

 

If you are only going to be polishing a small section at a time (I've done this often) you can substitute a diluted isopropyl alcohol wipe for the strip wash. Just wipe down the section you are planning to polish and go to it.

You sir are awesome! Thanks for the tip I will definitely do the isopropyl alcohol wipe down, how should I dilute it or should I use it full strength?

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