Paint Corection Stage One

[TR6speed]

It has been a while since I did a complete detail on my 2007 Monterey Red Metallic Corvette.  I am 70 years old and retired so the car is not a daily driver, but it does see a fair share of driving.

 

So there is a big Corvette and Chevy show this weekend so I want it to look better then a fast wash and a quick glaze application.  So first thing this morning it got a good bath, followed by a complete clay bar treatment.

 

Step on was to look and see what needed the paint correction, so after about 15 minutes of inspecting the paint under a bright light, I found that the hatch area, and hood show some small swirls and minor scratches.  So I broke out the PC and a new bottle (first timer using) Paint Correction Polish.  I did a complete application to all the upper areas as I found no signs of damage on the lower areas. 

 

Next I went to teh Paint finish Polish and did the entire car.  What I found however on both products, is one they take a lot longer to flash over, or I was doing something wrong.  What I mean by this, is I have always used a trick I learned from Adam a long time ago, and that is to use the porta Cable and a goob microfiber towel to remove the wax, polish and glaze and just finish it with a quick hand buff.  I had a lot of trouble removing the correction polish. and I gave up on using the method with teh finish polish.  I ended up using a few double soft towels to remove it  and then went over the car witha fresh towel and the buffer.

Here are a few pictures of the results so far.

 

Tomorrow, will be a good coat of Brillent Glaze and a coat of Americana.

[shane@detailedreflections]

Looks like some good work so far. 

 

As for the polish being difficult to remove, was it hot out?  I find that when it's hot, product is much harder to remove.  Otherwise, it does remove pretty easily and I tend not to remove correcting polish before I've done the finishing polish.  No need to waste the step of an extra removal.

[Ls1transam]

Good looking car

[TR6speed]

Good looking car

Thanks

[TR6speed]

Looks like some good work so far. 

 

As for the polish being difficult to remove, was it hot out?  I find that when it's hot, product is much harder to remove.  Otherwise, it does remove pretty easily and I tend not to remove correcting polish before I've done the finishing polish.  No need to waste the step of an extra removal.

Yes it is warm today and humid.  What else is there in Florida.  I know that it does slow the process up as I am use to it with the glaze., but I thought I left it long enough to be ready to remove..  oh well live and learn.

Thanks for teh reply.

[AvsBest]

When the polish is a bit hard to remove, a mist of detail spray and it's gonna come right off

[BRZN]

Car looks good!

 

The current version of Adam's PCP can be a bit tough to remove at times. I'll go right over it with the PFP and follow that up with Brilliant Glaze. If I find no need to use the PFP I'll remover the PCP with Brilliant Glaze. The Brilliant Glaze makes the polish residue almost effortless to remove.

 

The PCP and PFP both have longer open, or work times than his old Swirl and Haze Remover and Fine Machine Polish did if that's what you're used to.

[shane@detailedreflections]

Car looks good!

 

The current version of Adam's PCP can be a bit tough to remove at times. I'll go right over it with the PFP and follow that up with Brilliant Glaze. If I find no need to use the PFP I'll remover the PCP with Brilliant Glaze. The Brilliant Glaze makes the polish residue almost effortless to remove.

 

The PCP and PFP both have longer open, or work times than his old Swirl and Haze Remover and Fine Machine Polish did if that's what you're used to.

I haven't tried to just apply glaze before removing the polish residue.  It sounds like that's what you do?  Then again, I usually apply sealant first, then glaze.  I don't mind removing residue after going around twice (once with correcting polish and one with finishing polish).

[TR6speed]

When the polish is a bit hard to remove, a mist of detail spray and it's gonna come right off

The PCP was a little difficult, but it was the PFP that stayed oily.  It was just being pushed around by the towel when using the buffer.  By hand it was a little better, but still oily and I had to wipe and buff by hand a few times to get the oily/cloudiness to final go away and give me that deep wet shine.  Well tomorrow it get teh Brillent Glaze and then the Americana.

[rkj4243]

​Back to the original poster's remark, car looks great so far!   

 

​Well worth the effort, and good luck at the show!

 

​The best part of the show should be having fun while looking at other vehicles, and interacting with the people!

[BRZN]

The PCP was a little difficult, but it was the PFP that stayed oily.  It was just being pushed around by the towel when using the buffer.  By hand it was a little better, but still oily and I had to wipe and buff by hand a few times to get the oily/cloudiness to final go away and give me that deep wet shine.  Well tomorrow it get teh Brillent Glaze and then the Americana.

Right, the PCP is the tougher of the two to remove. The Brilliant Glaze wouldn't be needed to remove the PCP residue if you are going to follow it up with the PCP. Any glaze you lay down today should remove any remaining dried polish residue.

It was just being pushed around by the towel when using the buffer. 

Had you wrapped a microfiber towel over a pad on a buffer or polisher to try to remove the polish residue? If this method was still just pushing the product around leaving an oily residue, you may have been working with too much product. By the time you did the towel on your buffer/polisher, then went to, by, hand removal you may have thinned it down and allowed enough time for it to dry some making it now easier to remove. As I'd stated above, the of PFP has a longer "open" time than his old Fine Machine Polish.

 

I haven't tried to just apply glaze before removing the polish residue.  It sounds like that's what you do?  Then again, I usually apply sealant first, then glaze.  I don't mind removing residue after going around twice (once with correcting polish and one with finishing polish).

Yes, often times I'll use the Brilliant Glaze to remove the polish residue.

Makes no difference if you're going to lay down Sealant next or Wax over the Glaze.

Sorta' depends on the amount of time you have and the size of the vehicle. For me cutting or combining steps that still give me my desired result just makes sense.

[shane@detailedreflections]

Thanks for the reply. I'm all about combining steps when it doesn't effect the finished product. I may try that method next time only glaze down before I seal a vehicle. Although I usually seal and then glaze...out of habit more than anything else.

 

Thanks for the tip!

[ematt1212]

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Edited November 23, 2016 by ematt1212

[LT1xL82]

IPA mixed with distilled water works really well removing residue from polishing. Use it with a white microfiber and it will highlight that the paint might not of been as free from residue as it appeared.    

[98BlackSierra]

Love C6 Vettes.  Looks awesome!

[Chris@Adams]

Looks good Jack, I never wipe off until the very last step (BG). CP over clay reside, FP over CP and finally BG over FP then wipe off. The BG wipes off way easier then the Polish alone.

[KFULLER1212]

Looks good Jack, I never wipe off until the very last step (BG). CP over clay reside, FP over CP and finally BG over FP then wipe off. The BG wipes off way easier then the Polish alone.

So u do not need to remove the residue after each step? Can u remove with BG if you are going to put down paint sealant?

[BRZN]

So u do not need to remove the residue after each step? Can u remove with BG if you are going to put down paint sealant?

Don't have to, no. Not once you've done a test section and know what it'll take to achieve your desired results.

and

Correct, use the BG to quickly remove the polish residue prior to wax OR sealant application.

[PHOKUS]

Lack of residue control is what is causing the PCP to be difficult to remove. Sure the heat contributes, you should be compounding and polishing in the shade whenever possible, but the residue is the real problem.

 

With the age of your beautiful 'Vette, I'd be willing to bet you're pulling some dead clear off. All that dead clear plus the product goes into the pad and goes right back onto your paint, making the residue VERY difficult to remove. Either clean your pad every couple of panels, or switch the pad out.

 

Looks good Jack, I never wipe off until the very last step (BG). CP over clay reside, FP over CP and finally BG over FP then wipe off. The BG wipes off way easier then the Polish alone.

 

If not wiping reside between stages, I would highly recommend using several pads for each stage. The reside from the previous stage just gets buried in the pad.